New Raven build -- advice sought

[Andre Jute]

On a touring/utility/commuter bike it's definitely worth going for the longest mudguard you can fit at the front, both forward and downward, so it is worth going to some trouble to fix it securely. I found that even an inch at the front* makes a difference to the rider's comfort on a wet day after only an hour or two in the saddle.

* SKS used to sell -- may still do though I haven't seen it offered in a while -- a rubber dress up fitting for the front of the front mudguard which extended it by less than an inch; on SKS short "sports" version of the P65 I found that even that little made difference to both the state of my clothes and my temper after a ride of only 22km. For a while I fitted a stiffly curved rubber SKS "mudflap" to the front as well as the rear of the mudguard, but it got damaged and wasn't replaced, so I can't find a photo.

Fine looking bike, Dave.

[Danneaux]

Dave,

I'm reasonably certain a Rivendell "Mark's Rack" could be configured to fit your bicycle. Many others of this sort won't, because they depend on an unthreaded through-hole at the fork crown. The Mark's circumvents this requirement and otherwise looks much like the one you identified as "ideal" in your photo.

Link here: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r1.htm

Best,

Dan.

[djd828]

Thanks Andre and Dan--

Yes, I saw that rack on the Riv site yesterday and thought it could possibly work...and it is a beauty to boot.  I am still unsure how it attached to the fork and it doesn't look like it has a dedicated mount for the fender.  I will check out the video they have posted...I really like the looks...and what's another $140 at this point, right?

[djd828]

Sorry just noticed those two bolts on the top of the Riv rack.....I'm sure that can be used along with a spacer if necessary.

Dave

[Danneaux]

...just noticed those two bolts on the top of the Riv rack.....I'm sure that can be used along with a spacer if necessary.

Yep.

Best,

Dan.

[jags]

Dave your bike is pure class honest to god ,love that crankset first thing i noticed .wheels look awesome as you yanks would say  us paddies would say CLASS .
anyway your health to ride it stay safe and keep her clean..

man i love bike's .


jags.

[djd828]

Thanks jags....I think I will be able to get a decent idea of how I want to tweak it this weekend.  60 degrees F. In Kentucky on Saturday.

Still on the fee on the fender.  I still think the easy way out is using a p clip on the rack loop and one of these on the fender....though I do love that small Riv rack:

[Danneaux]

Dave,

It isn't too difficult to engineer a fender (mudguard) and light mount for a front rack.

Below, you can see three photos of one I quickly milled from 6061-T6 aluminum billet for the front rack on one of my randonneur bikes. The pinch bolt for the clamp simply extends into a tube I double-threaded so a buttonhead allen screw secures the fender from below. My front fender is plastic and extends a good way forward of the rack (it is a repurposed rear fender, as on my Nomad).  All threads and fasteners are M5 x 0.8mm. The light wire feeds through the mount to serve as a stress relief.

Last photo shows the comparison with my Nomad.

You needn't go to so much work to get the same result...

Either longer bolts with plain spacers or a double-threaded spacer would nicely secure your front fender to the underside of a Mark's rack, using the eyelets intended for the crown mounting tang.

I think I would prefer to secure the fender end to the rack hoop using a P-clip. This would allow you the option to later fit or remove a small platform rack while keeping the lowriders and fender intact.

Best,

Dan.

[djd828]

Thanks Dan, I wish I had your engineering skills.  It is difficult to tell on the picture of your Nomad, but does the front fender stay connect to the corner of your front rack?  I am asking because I have the option of doing that as well but I would need about a 1/4 inch spacer to use on the rack end.

Thanks again for presenting me with all of these options.

Dave

[Danneaux]

It is difficult to tell on the picture of your Nomad, but does the front fender stay connect to the corner of your front rack?

Yes.

More pics in the "Danneaux's Nomad" gallery:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4523.0

Some were corrupted in the Forum upgrade, but if you click on the generic thumbnail icons, you should be able to see enough to get some idea. Links...
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4523.msg22537#msg22537
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4523.msg23847#msg23847 <= Detail photos here
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4523.msg23943#msg23943

Best,

Dan.

[RonS]

Beautiful build, Dave! And that crankset! Wow!

I see your bike shop installed the Shimano "power modulator" that came in the box. If you've been for a ride you have found out that it should be called a "power reducer" as its purpose is to keep people from flying over the bars and calling a personal injury lawyer before they come to rest. The good news is that the brakes work just fine and are in fact even easier to modulate with it removed.

When you manage to stop riding long enough to take some more pics it would be nice to see a closeup of those beautiful cranks, and the rims and tires. I'm interested to see how little the tires bulge on those nice wide rims compared to my skinny lightweight DT Swiss rims.

Congratulations!

Ron

[rualexander]

I see your bike shop installed the Shimano "power modulator" that came in the box. If you've been for a ride you have found out that it should be called a "power reducer" as its purpose is to keep people from flying over the bars and calling a personal injury lawyer before they come to rest. The good news is that the brakes work just fine and are in fact even easier to modulate with it removed.

I've never heard of these things, and never seen a bike with them fitted.

[Danneaux]

I see your bike shop installed the Shimano "power modulator" that came in the box.

<nods>

its purpose is to keep people from flying over the bars and calling a personal injury lawyer before they come to rest.

A task at which it does not always excel. See: http://www.proactiv-gmbh.com/documents/UK_BA_Shimano_V-Brake_Deore.pdf  which notes...

The power modulator is a device that makes it easier to control
braking by increasing the cable stroke at the brake lever within a
certain constant range of braking force.
If the effective operating range of the power modulator will be
exceeded, the lever stroke and the brake will operate as a normal
V-BRAKE brake (sensitive and powerful). In that case, the brakes
may operate more powerfully than intended and may cause the
wheel to lock up. Therefore it is essential that you fully understand
and test the performance of the power modulator before use.
The power modulator is not equipped with a function to
prevent the wheel from locking up

The good news is that the brakes work just fine and are in fact even easier to modulate with it removed.

<nods vigorously>

I've never heard of these things, and never seen a bike with them fitted.

While I do not(!) prefer them, some people do and actively seek them out and fit them. For further consideration, see:
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/um/SI-79Y0C-001-ENG.pdf
http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/772136-shimano-sm-pm40-power-modulator.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/shimano-power-modulator-v-brakes-349988.html
Best,

Dan.

[djd828]

Ron, thanks--attached are some more pics.  Concerning the brake modulator, I had no idea what it was and I just left it.   The cranks are White Industries ENO mountain bike cranks--a spiderless design that looks very clean.  I have them protected with adhesive crank protectors and I didn't do such a good job on the right side as there are several bubbles.  Another thing of note are the pedals from a Canadian company called Blackspire.  All of my biking life, I had used primarily Look and Speedplay clipless pedals and was used to being locked in.  When I recently bought a used Surly LHT, it came with platform pedals and before I could change them out I rode it several times with the platforms and just loved it. 


I did go out on a 20 mile test ride yesterday in 70 degree January weather--albeit a bit windy.  The biggest thing I learned is that the Mondials are too wide and heavy for my liking.  I think Andy Blanche is spot on saying these work great for expeditions but not for primarily tarmac riding (which will be 90% of what I will be doing).  I am going to give the Marathon Supremes a try as I prefer a narrower tire.   I kind of liked the elevation of the handlebar but I may drop it an inch and try that.  I absolutely love the Rohloff and anyone that argues that derailleurs are better is either delusional or a flat out liar (maybe I am being a little too strong with my opinion )  I still have to learn the proper technique of shifting at the bottom of the crank rotation or pausing very briefly while I shift.

The rest of the bike seems spot on.  I was worried that I might have gotten too large of a frame but that notion quickly disappeared when I started riding.

I'm looking forward to my first big ride on the Oregon coast in June.

Dave

[Danneaux]

Terrific photos of a lovely bike, Dave! So glad you were able to do a test-ride and in such warm weather, too. Send some to me here in Oregon!  We've still got storms, flooding, and lost a sizable chunk of US Highway 101 (the main N-S coastal connector) to a sinkhole a couple days ago. I'm still riding, but the flooded roads are determining my routes.

The needed momentary pause for Rohloff shifting will soon become second nature. Think of it as "shifting at top-dead center" (top of the upstroke) -- that seems a bit easier for some.

Best,

Dan.