Fitting Ergon GP5 grips

[Matt2matt2002]

So, here's where I'm at...
Awaiting a new shifter from SJS.
I went for the new shape
 http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-14-speed-handlebar-twistshifter-light-for-speedhub-500-14-wave-design-8206-prod33788/

BTW, how do i put that link under a word?
Know what I mean? Everyone apart from me can do it!

The local bike shop here in Aberdeen, confusingly called Edinburgh Bike Shop, had said they could supply it to me  - but at £20 more than the SJS one. Nice of them to tell me that and they are quite happy for me to buy it and to fit it.

I have booked the bike in for Thursday. I may have the brake cables renewed since with all the mucking about, they have been damaged.

Here are a few pretty pictures since i haven't been able to get out on the bike.

It all started when I thought I would treat myself to Ergon ends.
I already had a spare Thorn comfort bar.
The foam padding was getting thin on the Humpert ones and although it can be renewed I had heard good reports of the Ergon ends.

Tackling the left hand end first - the bend was a real pig to remove and as expected the right bend was worse.

It would not budge - so i had to saw it off.
I then found that the shifter was 'welded' on. I checked with SJS that it was only fixed with the 2 Allen key grub screws that I had removed.
Then had the bright idea of hammering out the bar end from inside the shifter.
Not a good idea,
a - it didn't work - the shifter is still stuck on the bar
b - I have buggered up the shifter


Looking from the front of the bike.
You can see the end of the bar poking out of the shifter


The bar has been hammered down into the shifter but will not come out completely



Here you can see the damage I have caused, and the shifter wont turn now.



A sorry tale. But may I ask what other folk would have done faced with bars that would not slide out from the shifter?


Also...
When ordering the new shifter from SJS I asked if there would be any problem fitting the old cables.
They said everything was the same apart from the 2 2.5 Allen grub screws having been changed to Torx head bolts.
That's a new one to me, but I looked them up and can see the advantages.
But wonder why change from the Allen screws? I know its not something you take apart every day but surely the Allen are more common than the Torx?

Just a thought.

Fingers crossed for the delivery of the new shifter before Thursday.

Matt

[Danneaux]

Hi Matt!

The last thing you need right now is criticism, so please know this isn't intended as that.

I just keep thinking...did you possibly miss undoing the clamp screws? The two screws shown in the opening still on the video here are the ones that need undoing: http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/twist_shifter/

The good news is the damage is isolated and all replacement parts are readily available, so no real harm done. I'm sorry you ran into trouble and I know how frustrating such things can be.

Still...it'd be real interesting to see if that shifter can eventually be removed. Did you try a penetrating oil in-between the handlebar and clamp early on in the process?

All the best and all encouragement your way,

Dan.

[Danneaux]

Hi Matt!

Above, you asked...

BTW, how do i put that link under a word?
Know what I mean? Everyone apart from me can do it!

Ah! Here's how (on this Forum)...

Usually, when composing, you can click on the little "world" icon ("Insert Hyperlink") and then paste your URL between the brackets or, you can paste your URL, highlight it, and then click the icon to make it a hyperlink. Either will work. I have to add a space so you can read it as code here, but the result looks something like this: [ url=http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/] http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/[ /url]

To make a word into a hyperlink, you have to do another step...format it so it looks like this (sans the extra spaces I added so you can see it here without it executing):

[ url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/ ]SJSC[ /url ] In other words, add a closing bracket "]" after your link, then add the word you want to link between that bracket and the closing statement.

The result should look like this:
SJSC

There are various plug-ins (mods) that can be installed to the Forum to add this functionality semi-automatically, but the decision was made by my predecessor to keep the Forum as basic as possible to avoid conflicts and problems that can result from mods. Having seen the results on other Forums, I'm inclined to keep it simple for the foreseeable future until I can test all permutations of mods for unwanted interactions. Some work perfectly well till the Forum software is updated, then break the lot.

Best,

Dan.

[Matt2matt2002]

Thanks Dan.
No probs with any of your comments any time!
Yep, sure did undo those 2 pesky bolts.
Those were 2.5 Allen, right?
Now replaced with the Torx ones on the new shifter.

Why do you think they have done that?

Yep. Sure tried the oil trick. Let it seap in but no movement.
At this stage I had sawn off both end curves of the old bars!

Any other thoughts?

Matt

[Danneaux]

Matt,

The only thing I can think of is the clamp may have galvanically corroded to the handlabars. Sweat or salt air might've helped, but both surfaces are anodized. I have to admit I'm at a loss at present, but hope it doesn't happen again to you or anyone else. Very, very unfortunate.

I suppose it is possible the shifter got moved so far in on the 'bars, the corner caught the bend in the 'bars and breached the anodizing on both.

Hmm.  Still thinking...

When you undid the two bolts, did the lower clamp half fall away or become loose? Did *anything* happen?

All the best,

Dan.

[Matt2matt2002]

Nope. Nothing happened when the 2 bolts came away.
Looking at the video still you kindly posted ( and I played the whole YouTube clip )
my arrangement is different.
I'll try to take another snap or 2 tomorrow.

Your idea about the fusion is probably correct.

I'll be interested in what the bike shop say when they see it next week

Matt

[il padrone]

So, here's where I'm at...
Awaiting a new shifter from SJS.
I went for the new shape
 http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-14-speed-handlebar-twistshifter-light-for-speedhub-500-14-wave-design-8206-prod33788/

BTW, how do i put that link under a word?
Know what I mean? Everyone apart from me can do it!

Use the "insert hyperlink" button (right next to the "insert image" button on the posting menu), or type out the tags yourself. Paste your link url after an = symbol, and place the words between the url tags.

eg (url=link address)text identifier(/url) - but use square brackets rather than the curved ones shown here.




I'm a bit intrigued just why you needed to saw the end off the left bar in the first place - "the bend was a pig to remove". How so? You mean sliding it through your stem? Most stems these days are 2 or 4-bolt units with a completely removable face-plate. Or was it the brake lever that could not go round the bend?

The shifter is a disappointment, and I would be keen to hear of any resoluton that finds the cause. Must check mine as Thorn sent out a warning about their Flat Track bars and the possibility of corrosion around the shifter (picked up on just one or two bikes they had been working on) and I have the same original attern shifter as you. But not so relevant with your Humpert bars.

[JimK]

My shifter looks just like yours, Matt. Those screws do look more like grub screws that just dig into the handlebar, rather than clamping bolts that engage a separate part of the shifter to reduce the overall circumference. My screws have hex heads rather than torx. I have noticed, too, how my shifter doesn't match the various videos I have seen posted!

Some strange chemical bond really does seem like the most likely explanation for what happened between your shifter and handlebars. Scary/ugly for sure!

I don't think you will be able to reuse shifter cables. The problem is that the cut end of the cable needs to fit into these tiny holes over at the hub end. My bike has the EXT box while I think yours uses the internal mechanism, but I think the internal mechanism also has a similar way to end the cable. You insert the cable end into this tiny hole and then tighten a grub screw that mashes into that cable end, fraying it. You can get a nice fresh clean cut cable end into that hole, but once the grub screw has frayed it, you'll never get it back in that tiny hole again.

Anyway cables are cheap enough so just as well to swap new ones in while you've got it all apart. I replaced mine when they got all frayed inside the shifter. That's when I discovered how my shifter is different than the ones in the videos! But the job isn't too dreadfully difficult - even I could do it!

[Matt2matt2002]

Thanks JimK & Dan

Yes, Jim, I think we have the same shifter.

Here are some more of the mess/situation.

Dan, I am sure there are only 2 'grub' screws on the shifter. Apart from these 2 there are only the 2 Torx that hold in the cables.
Take another look at these pictures.

Someone asked why I had to saw off the ends?

The bars are in 3 parts. The end curves had to come off for me to remove the brake handles and the shifter on the right.

I managed to remove the curved part on the left and looking inside it did appear corroded.
sure enough, when I went to tackle the right side, it would not budge. So I hack-sawed it off.
I then tried to slide off the shifter after removing the 2 Allen key grub bolts - but no movement.
That was when I started to hammer it out.
( after trying the oil trick )

Here is a shot showing one of the grub screw holes


Here is the other one


This shows the shifter as far as I could 'shift' it!
It has moved an inch or so.
No corrosion showing so look forward to seeing what the bike shops boys turn up


Re cables Jim - yes a new set will be fitted by the shop since they are doing the shifter for me.

Many thanks for all the interest.

I'll report back at the end of the week.

Very frustrating since I have just fitted brand new sprockets front and rear, plus a chain and chain-glider.
All awaiting a test ride.

[Danneaux]

Yes, Matt, the clamp mechanism definitely looks different from mine.

The good news: The replacement should upgrade you to the latest model, with more visible numbers and a wavy grip.

Best,

Dan.

[il padrone]

I believe the clamp mechanism is that the two grub screws push onto a shim-style clamp. You can see this fairly clearly in your second photo.

[Matt2matt2002]

I believe the clamp mechanism is that the two grub screws push onto a shim-style clamp. You can see this fairly clearly in your second photo.

Interesting. I'll see what the guys at the bike shop turn up.
They will have to removed the damaged shifted in order to remove the brake mech.

[Matt2matt2002]

Yes, Matt, the clamp mechanism definitely looks different from mine.

The good news: The replacement should upgrade you to the latest model, with more visible numbers and a wavy grip.

Best,

Dan.

Phew! At least I now know I have done my best at removing it.
The nightmare I had, involved you telling me something along the lines of,' and then remove the hidden bolt......'
Yep, I look forward to the new style shifter.
And giving the new sprockets, chain and chain glider a work out.

[IanW]

You know how they say "ignorance is bliss".

With this thread you have disrupted my bliss.

I am now no-longer ignorant of the following:

Oldest Rohloff "Twistshifter": http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-14-speed-handlebar-twistshifter-for-speedhub-500-14-8200-prod10972/

Newer Rohloff "Twistshifter": http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-14-speed-handlebar-left-hand-twistshifter-light-for-speedhub-500-14-8207-prod27180/

Newest Rohloff "Twistshifter": http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-14-speed-handlebar-twistshifter-light-for-speedhub-500-14-wave-design-8206-prod33788/

I have 2 Rohloff-equiped bicycles in this household

One with the newer-style (but not *newest* style grip shift)
And the other with the older (oldest?) style grip shift.

I have definitely loosened and moved the newer one.

I have *just* losened the older one (and it seems to rotate fairly freely around the bar once loose)
But I am not at this stage able to translate it along the bar (it being trapped by an Ergon GP1 grip + bar-end mirror on one end
and by brake lever that is tight-ish up to a bend in the Thorn Comfort Bars.

But ... one of the allen-key grub-screws was very noticably dry-threaded and required rather more torque than I was happy applying to initially loosen it.

I was just wondering if Matt had been really unlucky and actually snapped the grub screw and thus only removed part of it, leaving the remainder still tightly gripping the shifter to the bar?

Just a thought (and now a concern for me).

[Danneaux]

Good thoughts all, Ian.

I'm eagerly awaiting the "shop autopsy" from Matt!

Best,

Dan.