Hi All!
After 105.5F/40C temperatures on some of my sun drenched summits, the weather changed to nearly 36 hours of rain and now heavy fog and rain this morning. The temperature dropped to just 39F/3.8C and I began to chill.
I spent last night with my tent pitched in the shell of a roofless abandoned farmhouse and was on the road riding just before 6am. After 7, I noticed there was more life about, so I stopped at the town store in Vabel. Except for a few raw meats in the butcher case there was nothing but junk foods available --cookies, candies, cakes, and biscuits. I bought a Coke and a little pack of 6 chocolate covered shortbreads and that was breakfast. In other towns, store after store was closed, often with photos of the dead owners on the doors. Here in Bulgaria, obituaries are posted on the house, door, or town meeting place instead of in a newspaper.A quick check with the locals confirmed the owners had passed away or were unable to remain in business due to financial setbacks. I asked what the townsfolk would do without a store and was told there are gardens and animals instead. Very few people speak English here, so the offline translator on my smartphone is a huge help. Getting confirmation of directions can be a bit confusing because most -- but not all - Bulgarians nod for "no" and shake their heads for "yes".
The public roadside springs Andy advised of ended at the Popovo county line and have not reappeared. I'm carrying three 1.5l bottles in the MonkeyCages, which don't seem to be working too well at retaining or releasing the bottles. They do allow capacity and are a very clever idea that works somewhat less well on execution than I'd hoped but I may be able to improve their retention along the way.
The CatEye Adventure computer is evil, plain and simple, and changes onto Set Mode when I hit big bumps. This means I have no reliable way to check distances.
The rest of the bike is working like a champ apart from a dragging right front brake. I'll take a look at it when it stops raining but for now it seems to be working fine if I open the release on the lever. The Purple Extreme chain lube is working fine in the rain and seems to be much longer lived on the Rohloff than on my derailleur rando bike.
Mosquitoes are fierce and seemingly impervious to my Picaridan spray in the concentration I'm carrying (7.5% and all I could manage to send via post). I slept with a hand near the tent wall and awakened to find it had been drilled in a line where it rested against the fabric.
Climbing, climbing, and more climbing brought me to Nikopol, where I saw a sign for the Hotel Gold through the pouring train. Even better, I saw a Swiss cyclotourist on his Veloutraum out front. He said the hotel was clean and nice and he paid in Swiss francs. He is on his way to Istanbul and then Thailand. By the time I finished locking the bike, A French couple arrived to collect their bikes from the downstairs locked storage. They are on their way to Bucharest and will then fly home. They said Internet was available via and access code from the desk agent, but not reliable in its connection.
I went inside and paid the price of 50 Bulgarian Leva (about €25) for the room, then relocked the bike in storsge and walked upstairs. It is clean and nice and quiet as well. There seems to be a restaurant attached so I'll see if that is available later, as I have an appetite. There is even a shower sharing space with the toilet and hand basin and my choice of two single beds.
I decided to stay on the Bulgarian side of the Danube for now as I have a supply of Leva and may as well use it. Unfortunately, I'm finding as many closed banks as stores. Several had chains through the door handles and signs up saying they are closed, please visit another branch.
I was able to pick up some food supplies at the Penny Market in Svishtov, but decided not to catch the ferry to Romania there as I learned of some severe road problems as a result of recent flooding on that side.
I tried to get a train in Svishtov and then a ride with a trucker, but no luck. Toilets were scarce as well, but I spotted a most unusual substitute when I stopped at an abandoned bus stop to heat sone sausage and beans on my little stove. It turns out those who had waited overly long for their buses had made use of what appeared to be a Cold War era abandoned blast/bomb shelter with meter thick concrete walls. I wish I could have taken s photo but it was both too dark and too vast for my flash to illuminate.
I have yet to come across a single Eurovelo sign, so am winging it as I go along. For now, I'm sticking to the two-lane Bulgarian highway 52, which has very light traffic on it but still has some tremendous, long grades.
My current plan is to cross into Romania a bit west of here, then hit Belgrade.
This brings things up to date for now. Things are going well, but I'm eager to leave Bulgaria' s long steep hills for flatter lands so I can make some time on the road. I will, however miss it's stunning beauty and gorgeous vistas and extremely nice, friendly people. It really is lovely country for touring, but I'm very grateful for my 36 X 17 Rohloff combo.
All the best,
Dan]
