Hi All!
Having spent yesterday traversing the steep goat tracks of an extremely rural portion of Romania in 40°C+ heat, I crossed into Serbia yesterday only to discover the entire country has now been restricted by the US Treasury, so no US - issued debit or credit cards will work at ATMs or POS (point of sale) machines. Since this is the weekend, I will go to the bank for a direct teller withdrawal tomorrow. All should be fine thereafter, but the level of inflation here is staggering. I spent 400 dinar yesterday on a can of Coke and another of Nestea. There's a lot of really nice people here caught in an economic nightmare not of their making. Like so many people I've met in Bulgaria and Romania, many of the people here have little of their own, yet give what the have freely. Their gifts of the heart are limitless and I feel I've seen the best of human nature in them.
Meanwhile, it is tight rations cooked on the stove in the shower till I can get some local currency.
I immediately found some local expeditors who very kindly helped me with a money exchange and led me to the Vila Oazes, a lovely little hotel owned by his wife. Man! Things do work out and after a series of little adventures, I'm in the hands of lovely people and staying in a terrific place for cheap. The place really is impressive for just under USD $20 a night including breakfast, a great bed, pillow and bedding and an immaculate in-room bath. Some of the best music I've heard is quietly playing on the PA system. Their top - level room is a suite fit for Sybarites.
If all goes well, I'll ride to Pan?evo tomorrow, then on to and through Belgrade on my way to Novi Sad. Once I cross into Croatia, monetary restrictions will be lifted and it will be on to Budapest with greater ease.
I do have several recommendations for others who may be considering the same ride to this point:
1) I and others have found Eurovelo's claims of only quiet roads and slopes limited to 5% grade are not always true.
2) Signage/route designations are nonexistent in Bulgaria and Romania. Serbia has caught on to the economic advantages and have a huge sign and map posted by the border facility. Signage elsewhere should improve over the next 6 years, according to plan..Sygic has been *the* map app of choice for me. Those who are using paper maps and guide books seem to be in pretty poor shape when we compare and most meetings with other cyclists soon involve them taking route notes from my phone apps.
3) The Romanian side of the Danube is sun-exposed throughout and so is considered the "hot" side. It is that now with very high temperatures. I'd try the Serbian side next time, but there are 21 tunnels to contend with and it is busier.
4) Based on my observations so far and those of cycle tourists coming the other way, traveling is so much easier from west to east. Both slopes and wind will be with you and you'll fly. I, on the other hand, managed 100km in 10-12 solid hours of down on the drops riding, pedaling knees - within - elbows into 30 kph headwinds up some very steep sustained grades. When it was flat and windless briefly, I managed my usual 18mph/29 kph with no problem. One German I spoke with had to backtrack 60km and said he couldn't believe how much harder it was. I'm enjoying the trip immensely and very grateful to be taking it, but I could go farther, faster, and much more enjoyably if I didn't have to work so hard to make forward progress. Still, it is more than worth it for the fantastic scenery and incredibly nice people I've met. What a great ride!
5) The Romanian Frontier Police have been outstanding throughout -- quick to wave, smile, honk, or briefly blow the siren and always approachable, friendly, and professional when I've asked questions. Having once trained police officers for administrative positions, I feel good recommending them as a resource.
6) A person would really miss out if they avoided wild camping in Bulgaria and Romania. There are so many lovely places to stay if you have a tent with you. I spoke to a couple German fellows who mailed home all their camping gear when they found there were no more formal campgrounds. They regretted it bitterly after speaking with me and seeing photos of my camps. One German couple had a nice approach: Lodging on rainy nights and tent on dry ones. I didn't mind my snug little green home in the lightning and rain and very much enjoyed feeling the concussions of the thunder and the flashes of lightning.
Enjoying every moment,
Dan. (...who has had no further asthma problems after pre-dosing properly with his inhaler)
