is it possible to get the forks and rear stayes on my sherpa chromed.
Yes.
(You're probably thinking of that gorgeous Gios tourer you sent the link for)
The thing is, jags...the chrome-plating of today is not the same as the chrome-plating of yesterday. With changing environmental regulations, the process has changed, and it is really hard to get really good chrome. "Really good chrome" means careful surface preparation, careful etching, and a nice copper underlay before it ever hits the chroming salts/tank. What you'll want to look for is a firm that advertises "show-quality" chrome plating. It will be expensive. Yo'd have to leave clear instructions with the plater to neutralize the chroming salts afterwards so the frame didn't rust out where the salts entered the frame through the vent holes (if any; you're fine with the Sherpa). You'd want the fork half-dipped and the rear chain- and seatstays half-dipped so the bottom bracket threads remained intact. You'd have to re-tap the threads in the rack and mudguard braze-ons.
It is a lot of work, pretty expensive hard to get a great-quality job and -- provided it is done right and maintained nicely -- wonderfully pretty.
My two Centurions are
entirely triple-chrome plated under the paint (with selected areas left with the chrome exposed). It really adds to the lustre and depth of the paint. It increases the corrosion resistance (under the paint). It is pretty. It required an awful lot of polishing before plating to make it look so nice.
There's some downsides. Both frames weigh 15oz/425g more than if they weren't chrome-plated. It is hard to properly touch-up any nicks because the chrme shines through and I cannot match the factory's 5-stage catalyzed painting process. Despite what one might think, chrome is kind of porous, and it is possible for it to rust. The preventive cure is to keep it nicely waxed or polished with a non-abrasive metal polish with a silicone component. I prefer ammonia-based Blue Magic 'cos it is non-abrasive and leaves a protective (silicone) coating behind. If the worst happens (say, the chrome gets compromised with salt air or through rock chips and actually starts to rust), it can be brought back from even a dreadful state by using metal polish or ammonia and aluminum foil; the chemical combination breaks down the rust (works on old car bumpers, too). It sure brought my 1970 Raleigh Gran Sports with half-chromed fork and rearstays back from the dead. I got it used and the chrome was freckled with brown rust and pits, but not clear through. Looks like new now, and has stayed that way the last 27 years or so of my ownership.
So, yes, it is entirely possible to chrome your Sherpa, but you'll need to look around a bit to find a good-quality chromer and follow-up to make sure they do a good job of it. Do those things, and it'll be great. Only trouble is, we'll need to wear
to see you!
[EDIT: Ah! Jawine beat me to it while I stopped for a bite to eat. She and I are on the same page, but she got there quicker! Did a nice summary, too!]
All the best,
Dan.
