New Raven build -- advice sought

[il padrone]

I believe I read something about the Thorn bikes coming with 6mm screws but most rack manufactures use 5mm hardware

Dave, I think it's the Nomad which has the 6mm bolt holes. The Raven has the standard 5mm.

Tubus racks have a good rep, for sure. FWIW, I use a Topeak on the rear, and an Arkel low-rider at the front -- wanted to be sure I got racks which would mate with my panniers.

I have Tubus racks on my Nomad, and I don't think that I did any drilling out of rock holes; if I recall correctly the 6mm bolts fitted through the existing holes.

I prefer the Tubus as they are so light in weight, but equally so very tough and rigid. The Cargo has a nice wide platform, and this is rarely an issue anyway when loaded with rear panniers as the top cargo sits most often across the pannier tops. When carrying heavily loaded panniers I use the space between the panniers and under the rack bag for my water bag or a spare pair of shoes.

[Danneaux]

6mm bolts drop right into my Tubus Logo Evo rack; no drilling needed. Photo below.

5mm bolts would rattle slightly if not fitted with the slightly larger flat washers Tubus includes with their rack hardware.

Best,

Dan.

[il padrone]

6mm bolts drop right into my Tubus Logo Evo rack; no drilling needed. Photo below.

5mm bolts would rattle slightly if not fitted with the slightly larger flat washers Tubus includes with their rack hardware.

Hmm.... thing is, the Nomad doesn't have 6mm eyelets at the bottom, so 5mm it must be (unless they've changed this spec on newer frames than mine).

[Danneaux]

Hmm.... thing is, the Nomad doesn't have 6mm eyelets at the bottom, so 5mm it must be (unless they've changed this spec on newer frames than mine).

Hi Pete!

On the Nomad Mk2, the two lower (dropout) eyelets are tapped for 5mm, but can be bridged with a stainless adapter providing a single 6mm mount and additional width for clearing a Hope disc brake caliper.

Nomad frames sold alone by SJS Cycles do not include these adapters, but they can be ordered separately. See: See:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-for-rohloff-cast-end-2-x-m5-to-1-x-m6-stainless-dropout-adaptors-prod11703/?geoc=us The adapters are listed as a "related product" on Nomad frame pages on the SJSC website.

Since the adapter uses both 5mm dropout eyelets, mudguard stays must attach to the rack. If using a Thorn Expedition rear rack, shortened stays attach directly to bosses on the rack, making for a very rigid mounting. If using another rack, the stays can be attached using P-clips, as Thorn now do on their Mercurys equipped with Tubus' Airy rear carriers (pg. 50 of the Mega Solo Brochure: http://www.sjscycles.com/thornpdf/thorn_mega_brochure.pdf ).

Nomad Mk2 upper (seatstay) bosses are tapped for 6mm. Fork eyelets and bosses are 6mm.

Best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

...
On the Nomad Mk2, the two lower (dropout) eyelets are tapped for 5mm, but can be bridged with a stainless adapter providing a single 6mm mount and additional width for clearing a Hope disc brake caliper.

Nomad frames sold alone by SJS Cycles do not include these adapters, but they can be ordered separately. See: See:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-for-rohloff-cast-end-2-x-m5-to-1-x-m6-stainless-dropout-adaptors-prod11703/?geoc=us The adapters are listed as a "related product" on Nomad frame pages on the SJSC website.

Since the adapter uses both 5mm dropout eyelets, mudguard stays must attach to the rack. ...

... or you can use a pair of extra long M5 bolts (one each side) and attach your fender stay to the insides of the dropouts and then use a nylock nut. 

This would not work well with most derailleur bikes, the bolt could be too close to the chain and might interfere, but not a problem on a Rohloff bike.  See photo.

But, I do not use a disc, so I do not know if a bolt mounted this way might interfere with a disc.

I have since taken the adapters off my bike, so my rear rack is sitting on M5 bolts now.  In the photo I have the Surly rear rack on my Nomad, that rack really does not like the lower mounts being spread that far apart, it actually pushed my dropouts closer together making it harder to drop my wheel into the frame.  So, I removed the adapters so that my rack no longer pushes the dropouts together. 

I noted above that I use a Tubus Logo EVO for most touring on the back but when I get home I put a rack on with a wider platform, that is why I have the Surly rack on it for around home use.  On my Maah Daah Hey trip, I used a Racktime Addit rack, but that is another story.

[Matt2matt2002]

Don't forget a Chaingliger if you go for a Rohloff hub.
Best bit of extra kit I have fitted to my own Raven.

[djd828]

Don't forget a Chaingliger if you go for a Rohloff hub.
Best bit of extra kit I have fitted to my own Raven.

I know John Saxby has been singing the praises of the chainglider but I had no idea it even existed until I started perusing the forums.  I think the older models had issue scratching the hubs but I think the newer models are ok.  Can these be used on long distance tours?  Any real negatives using one?

[Danneaux]

Can these [Hebie Chaingliders} be used on long distance tours?  Any real negatives using one?

Hi Dave!

If you search the Forum archives using the Seach function, you'll learn all you could ever want about the Chainglider. Just use the search string "Chainglider" (no quotes)  I've posted a short tutorial on quickly and effectively searcing the trove of information in Forum posts here:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4390.0

Chaingliders work really well to keep a chain clean and well-lubed over extended use even in severe conditons and for that reason are very appropriate for tours. However, they only fit specific sizes of chainrings and cogs, so won't work for everyone. Also, there can be some problems with seatstay clearance on some frames, but this is usually resolved by slightly notching the cover. If properly sized and adjusted, they run quietly.

All the best,

Dan.

[djd828]

Thanks Dan, I've been living on the forum this weekend  but I did manage to go out on a couple rides.  I am in full forum search mode and learning more about touring bikes and related equipment than I ever imagined I would or could.  All of you are such a wealth of info and I am grateful for your help and detailed replies. 

Dave

[Danneaux]

Pleased to have you aboard, Dave. It is fun to see your bike coming together through the thought process toward ordering. Looking forward to seeing photos in the Gallery once it is complete.

Best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

Some of us do not use chain gliders, so don't jump to the conclusion that it is a necessity.

[il padrone]

Hmm.... thing is, the Nomad doesn't have 6mm eyelets at the bottom, so 5mm it must be (unless they've changed this spec on newer frames than mine).

Hi Pete!

On the Nomad Mk2, the two lower (dropout) eyelets are tapped for 5mm, but can be bridged with a stainless adapter providing a single 6mm mount and additional width for clearing a Hope disc brake caliper.

Nomad frames sold alone by SJS Cycles do not include these adapters, but they can be ordered separately. See: See:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-for-rohloff-cast-end-2-x-m5-to-1-x-m6-stainless-dropout-adaptors-prod11703/?geoc=us The adapters are listed as a "related product" on Nomad frame pages on the SJSC website.

Since the adapter uses both 5mm dropout eyelets, mudguard stays must attach to the rack. If using a Thorn Expedition rear rack, shortened stays attach directly to bosses on the rack, making for a very rigid mounting. If using another rack, the stays can be attached using P-clips, as Thorn now do on their Mercurys equipped with Tubus' Airy rear carriers (pg. 50 of the Mega Solo Brochure: http://www.sjscycles.com/thornpdf/thorn_mega_brochure.pdf ).

Oh yes. That's right, I have a couple of these in the spares drawer, just have not got around to fitting them (and still not completely sure they're necessary). Silly absent-minded me 

[il padrone]

I have since taken the adapters off my bike, so my rear rack is sitting on M5 bolts now.  In the photo I have the Surly rear rack on my Nomad, that rack really does not like the lower mounts being spread that far apart, it actually pushed my dropouts closer together making it harder to drop my wheel into the frame.  So, I removed the adapters so that my rack no longer pushes the dropouts together. 

Cold-set the stays of your Surly rack, so there's no stress from them. Best for the rack and for your frame.

[il padrone]

Don't forget a Chaingliger if you go for a Rohloff hub.
Best bit of extra kit I have fitted to my own Raven.

I know John Saxby has been singing the praises of the chainglider but I had no idea it even existed until I started perusing the forums.  I think the older models had issue scratching the hubs but I think the newer models are ok.  Can these be used on long distance tours?  Any real negatives using one?

Buy the Rohloff model.

Yes.

No.

[djd828]

Don't forget a Chaingliger if you go for a Rohloff hub.
Best bit of extra kit I have fitted to my own Raven.

I know John Saxby has been singing the praises of the chainglider but I had no idea it even existed until I started perusing the forums.  I think the older models had issue scratching the hubs but I think the newer models are ok.  Can these be used on long distance tours?  Any real negatives using one?

Buy the Rohloff model.

Yes.

No.

Yes, I would actually like to know peoples thoughts on the Chainglider.  I did a search yesterday but didn't find anything compelling one way or the other.  I did notice that it works best with a thinner chainring and I am not sure it would work well with the White Industries Eno 38 tooth that I have already purchased.   There is also the question of it marring the frame or hub but I think Hebie has that issue resolved.