Recent Posts

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91
Non-Thorn Related / Re: State of bike industry article
« Last post by JohnR on January 25, 2024, 06:18:52 pm »
My LBS advertises that they have over 200 bikes on display and over 1500 bicycles in stock but I think that the main source of revenue is by doing maintenance and repair. One of my friends uses them and needs to book a service slot several days ahead. I'm not a very good patron as I've tried to develop my own bike building and maintenance skills and normally buy what I need over the www. As a family business there will be a desire to maintain the good reputation and keep customers happy.
92
Thorn General / Re: Handle bars Thorn Nomad
« Last post by DIAGMONKEY on January 24, 2024, 03:42:01 pm »
I don't have a Nomad, but I use the Denham bars on my heavier duty bike. I find them comfortable. Coming from a drop bar bike they felt very wide initially but i have got used to them. Having a few different hand positions is nice, especially the hoods like position. 
93
Non-Thorn Related / Re: State of bike industry article
« Last post by Andyb1 on January 24, 2024, 10:01:46 am »
Hk Tyreon,  Sounds like you might live in Nottingham?   I moved from that area a couple of years ago but I seem to remember new cycle routes being opened ie to Clifton.  Only negative in the city was the tram lines!

My LBS in Taunton where I now live has also said there seems to be a glut of bikes and sales seem only to be top end, specialised bikes or really cheap biked as there are so many secondhand bikes around.  He does as lot of service work and seems always busy so I hope he can manage to keep going but it must be difficult to hold spares

AndyB
94
Non-Thorn Related / Re: State of bike industry article
« Last post by tyreon on January 23, 2024, 08:44:43 am »
I live in a Rat City,a university city. I dont see many bikes locked up in my city. Having said this,my city is dying.

The number of bike shops in and around my city has declined since I moved here in the 80s.

Once-was-a-decent bike shop Evans has now become a low priced stack-em- high junk shop.

My once was decent central bike shop has had to move and now seems to just sell repairs. The bikes he now sells seem low-end. I take coffee with the owner once a week. His tales of the bike industry and sales,are tales of woe.

Decathlon sits some 9 miles outside of the city. I dont know what their sales are.

I dont see the numbers out cycling what I saw in the 80s. As the population of the UK has grown and the suburbs,and the roads,more cars and lorries are on the roads and people less likely to cycle because to 'break away from it all' is at least a hours cycle ride to enter anthing countryside.

The roads are breaking down: potholes.

There remain two specialist road bike shops within the near city.

There are more electric assist cyclists about thanks to Pizza delivery services or wotnot.

I would want x4 New York U locks to leave any decent bike in the city tethered.

I believe there is some growth in runaround mobile bike mechanics repairing bicycles. I dont know how their business works out
95
Thorn General / Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Last post by Andyb1 on January 22, 2024, 11:29:35 am »
ACF50 is a good anti corrosive liquid, available in UK and probably US.

The Sherpa I recently bought was very clean and almost immediately needed a new BB and lower head bearing…..there was water in the frame.  I would guess it had been jet washed prior to sale, something I personally would never do to a bike.

Another place I have found water is inside tyres if an innertube with a presta valve is fitted in a hole in the rim sized for a schrader valve.  The solution for me was to fit a little plastic collar around the presta valve stem - available on ebay.
96
Thorn General / Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Last post by mickeg on January 20, 2024, 05:56:28 pm »
This forum has occasionally had a discussion on rustproofing the internal parts of a frame.

I am in USA, there is a product here called frame saver, it is petroleum based in a spray can that can be used to coat the insides of tubing.  I am not sure what the equivalent is in the UK.  But some of the older threads on that topic may have some info on that.

On my Nomad Mk II, I removed the tape in the headtube to apply frame saver in the top tube and downtube.  Then replaced the tape.

If you have the older type of seat post that has an open tube on the top, that is another way for water to get in, especially if you lack a mudguard on the rear wheel.

A friend of mine that volunteers time at a bike charity has commented that water can get in water bottle cage bolt fittings from capillary action. 

I recall on this forum that someone had rust accumulate in the bottom of the downtube just above the S&S coupler on a Mk II Nomad.  Not sure if it got in from the water bottle cage bolt above the coupler or where, but if you have S&S couplers, that could be something to be concerned about.  My couplers have discs welded into the end of the tube, so if any water got into the downtube or sloping top tube above the coupler, it can't drain out.  That makes the tape in the head tube very important.
97
Thorn General / Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Last post by Danneaux on January 20, 2024, 03:28:10 pm »
The original Nomad series had a derailleur drivetrain. The later series with Rohloff drivetrains were equipped with eccentric bottom brackets. It is easy enough to slide the eccentric to one side - or out -- to grease it for easy rotation during adjustment/to prevent galvanic corrosion, so a drain or grease port is not as critical.

The primary reason stated in early Thorn literature for the ports (when included) was for water drainage.

Older bicycles -- especially ones of British make, in my experience -- were often equipped with grease ports (often Zerk-style fittings, though sometimes cap ports) that allowed for greasing or oiling the bottom bracket in-situ. This required an "open"/unshielded/unsleeved bottom bracket so lube introduced through the port could reach the bearings. Modern bottom square-taper bottom brackets are now almost always sealed cartridge units with shielded bearings. In my experience, subsequent teardowns of the grease port BBs showed pretty uneven grease or oil distribution. The bearing nearest the port got the lion's share of lubrication, the other notsomuch.

Most water collecting in a bottom bracket enters from above in normal use (submersion, say when crossing a stream, is another matter!). Mindful of that, be sure to use grease to make a seal around the top of the seatpost. I also employ some tapered silicone rings that make a small "roof" over the top of the seat tube to prevent water entry. A section of innertube rolled over the split tightening kerf helps prevent water entry also.

Particularly on bikes with threadless headsets, it is also helpful to apply a small piece of electrical tape over the vent hole at the head tube/downtube junction to prevent water entering along the steerer from running down the downtube toward the BB, where it could collect and cause rust.

Best, Dan.
98
Thorn General / Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Last post by in4 on January 20, 2024, 11:07:35 am »
My much loved MK1 Nomad had a drain point/screw under the BB. I wondered why this feature had been discontinued and was wondering if it might also have been an access point to put some grease in.
🤔
99
Thorn General / Re: Handle bars Thorn Nomad
« Last post by Andre Jute on January 17, 2024, 12:23:15 am »
North Road Bars are more versatile than one might think at first glance. They easily accommodate any position from fully upright to fully aerodynamic, from parallel to the road for comfort to perpendicular to the road for a flat back. I know because I set my personal, truck assisted* ton-up record on a Royal Dutch Gazelle Toulouse, the quintessential Dutch commuter bike, complete with North Road Bars, normally used in a near-upright position. That's the only thing I changed, the inclination of the bars.

All you need to free the North Road Bars for adventure is an adjustable stem, and Gazelle's premium bikes come (or came, a quarter-century ago when I bought the bike) with their exemplary toollessly adjustable Switch stem, capable of adjusting the handlebars from the heady heights of commuting to so low, the handlebar grips are level with the top of the tyre. For a flat back you turn the North Road bars in the stem so that the grips point nearly perpendicularly at the road. It takes three seconds to set the bars low, and another three seconds to set them back in the normal position for a middle-aged hedonist; very useful for cycling into a headwind.

I'm aware of the dangers of residual stress injury in my hands, which is why I have North Road Bars on all my bikes. I just don't know anything else as ergonomic as correctly fitted North Road Bars, meaning with the grips not parallel to the road but pointing down at about 30 degrees from horizontal, which sacrifices some of the height gained by North Road Bars. I can't remember when I last had numb hands or needles in my hands on a ride, or even felt the slightest discomfort in my hands.

BTW, the Denham handlebar mentioned in a post above is conceptually a North Road Bar turned upside down and with aero bars attached.
100
Thorn General / Re: Handle bars Thorn Nomad
« Last post by SteveM on January 16, 2024, 09:43:11 am »
I have swapped out the Thorn flat track bars (which are good) for the Koga Satori Dunham bars.  Wider and with more sweep and bullhorns to replicate the ‘riding on the hoods’ position.  Great bars.
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