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The 👍 also helps reduce posts basically being duplicated by others.
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What I meant, George, was that after seeing how badly worn the sprocket was that PH posted (which was obviously in use) that perhaps we all change them too soon.
A 1:1 final drive is much more tolerant of wear than a derailleur system……where almost invisible sprocket wear can give problems as different sprockets will have different amounts of wear so some will not mesh with the chain.
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Bikes For Sale / Custom Thorn Voyager Tandem – Built by Robin Thorn
« Last post by Hunnisett12 on May 11, 2026, 04:36:07 PM »
Due to poor health, I am reluctantly offering this exceptional tandem for sale. It has been a much-loved vehicle for our family, and I hope it brings its next owner as much joy as it gave us. Personally ordered from and built by Robin Thorn (Serial No: 200312006), this "Long/Short" aluminium frame is the ultimate setup for a tall captain and a child or petite adult stoker.
Key Features:
•   Child-Back Style: 16.5" rear seat tube, adjustable stoker stem, and specialized 150mm short-reach rear cranks for a perfect, safe fit for smaller riders.
•   Maximum Gearing: A "wide as possible" 3x8 (24-gear) range controlled by intuitive GripShift on flat bars—conquers any hill.
•   Premium Comfort: Upgraded with genuine Brooks Sprung Leather saddles (small profile on rear) and high-volume Schwalbe Hurricane 2.1" tyres for a beautifully cushioned ride. Brooks Flyer saddles front and (Short) rear tensioning tool included.
•   Heavy Duty: 36-spoke wheels for maximum strength and reliability.
•   Touring Ready: Includes high-capacity Thorn front and rear pannier racks.
Condition:
Very Good condition throughout. Professionally serviced with brand new chains and a new rear derailleur; it has been ridden only once since.
Sizing:
Front Seat Tube: 21" (32" Standover) | Rear Seat Tube: 16.5" (27" Standover).

•   Extras: Thorn high-capacity racks (F+R), adjustable stoker stem.
Service History:
Major service 2 years ago including new chains, brakes and rear derailleur. Only one ride since. Very Good condition.

Offers over £600.

I can supply photos, just tech glitch won't allow it on here today!!!!

Location: West Sussex (Local collection)
Contact: Richard Broadhurst (muddypair@icloud.com / 07724807380)

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Thanks in turn, Moronic, for your further thoughts. I see the value in this sort of "approval indicator" and am aligned with your views on the value in it when used as in your example.

At this point, I think it best we wait while I monitor the development of this feature in the SMF Forums. I know it is a requested feature and one of the lead coders has it on their "to-do" list as an approved internal "mod", so once finished, there should be few compatibility issues and we could surely try a trial roll-out to see how it goes. I don't see a problem with a rollback in case it doesn't suit or has unforeseen problems. There may be some delay before it becomes available because the coders are volunteers, just as I volunteer my efforts here.

TLDR: Let's hold tight for now while I monitor developments and when it becomes available, let's give it a try! :) If a LOT of time goes by, give a shout to remind me, as it is possible I may have forgotten. ;)

Thanks again to all for the kind words and if you have further suggestions, I'll surely take them under advisement. Sometimes the ideas that appear easiest to implement have the most "backroom" consequences to administer, but if that is the case, I'll do my best to explain why.

All the best, Dan.
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A belated thanks for the background, Dan, on the "likes" proposal. Yeah I wouldn't be keen on the Karma thing either: I don't see much value in ranking contributors.

On the couple of motorcycle forums I frequent that have it, the Likes feature works for me in a few ways. First, as I said above, it allows me to tell someone I've read their post and appreciate their having contributed it. Second, if people like something I've posted it brings a small psychic reward.

Third, it sometimes defuses potential clashes. For example, someone might respond to a post with a contrasting view, or to supply important context that had been omitted. If they've like the post they're responding to, anecdotally it seems more likely that the original poster will see the reply as additive rather than corrective.

Fourth, if someone's offering advice in response to a question, a bunch of likes tells the questioner that other members think the advice is well founded.

Whether that's worth a bigger admin load in avoiding glitches from updates etc is a whole other thing, and it's easy to see why we'd want to keep forum maintenance as straightforward as possible.
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In my opinion, the best chain lubricant under a ChainGlider is the factory lube that comes on KMC chains when they are new, at least the ones designed for hub gears/single speeds. This lasts for a very long time inside a ChainGlider. But it does eventually wear off/wash off in very wet or very dirty conditions. On an exposed chain, it picks up dust if used off road in dry conditions and, like anything else, it picks up muck if used in wet conditions.

As I've mentioned before, I ride almost exclusively on clean if potholed country lanes and, even in Ireland, my bike is rarely exposed to rain for long enough for water to seep past the naturally tight-fitting interlock of the Chainglider -- actually, it has never happened, but I'm loath to say 'never, can't happen' in relation to water, the most insidiously powerful element on this earth and, besides, other Chainglider users on this forum have reported ingress into their Chaingliders in harsher use than mine. In the harvest season, when huge reaping and bailing machines with rows of lethal spikes the full width of a two-way lane dash around the country lanes from field to field to use every second of daylight, I often have to jump into the ditch either side of the lane, but I hold my bike above my head so the Rohloff, and the Chainglider with it, is never submerged. As in everything else, the longtime cleanliness of the Chainglider reflects the unavoidable necessities of where one lives and rides; I work at home in my study, so I have no problem waiting out the rain, and I live in the warmest part of Ireland by deliberate choice, where the winters are nowhere near as harsh as in most parts of Europe. I'm therefore not surprised to discover that the exemplary KMC lube lasts longer under my Chainglider than in your use.

This needs a response of its own:
In my opinion, the best chain lubricant under a ChainGlider is the factory lube that comes on KMC chains when they are new, at least the ones designed for hub gears/single speeds.

If there's more than one grade of KMC chain lube, purely as a commercial matter its application is more likely to be determined by the price of the chain than the service type of the chain. I've operated both the KMC X series of derailleur chains and their Z series of single-speed chains, and both had what appeared to be the same lube, by visual inspection and a similar length of service under the same conditions. Both types of chain were, at the time I started using them, at the top of their respective ranges, so, if KMC does use more than one grade of lubrication, they would have received the best lube. But Sheldon, who only had to ask the US KMC distributor's rep to discover the truth, says nothing about grades of KMC factory lube...

In addition, I found that the derailleur X chain lasted longer, if not by a hugely different distance, than the fixie Z chain, and ascribed this to the greater flexibility of the X chain, even though my bike's chain line (tread, Q factor if anyone insists on insider jargon) is to the Rohloff blueprint spec of less than a millimeter off perfectly parallel to the bike's longitudinal centerline; indeed, padded out to be perfectly parallel. If you run a chain as slack as a proper Rohloff setup, and ride fast at all, there will be many occasions, which you will only note if you look for them, that at sudden changes of gear or speed, like hard braking, a small compressive ripple travels along the chain and, obviously, puts more stress on the sideways stiff Z fixie chain than on the sideways flexible X derailleur chain. It may be a result of KMC's proprietary construction method of the derailleur chain (the riveting in the X derailleur chain differs from the Z single speed chain).
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...
Perhaps we all change parts much too soon???  A 1:1 chain system has a lot more tolerance than derailleurs.

I think it depends a lot on the derailleur system you are using. 

My eight speed bikes use a Sram 850 cassette, cost is about 30 USD before state sales tax, in my state that would be about 32 USD.  I think Dan does not have a sales tax.  That is not a significant cost.  And a KMC eight speed chain, a Z series about 15 USD and an X series about, Amazon has that for about $15 USD too.  Thus, very low cost to replace.  Replacing both and you are paying less than $50. 

That said, I think you replace those parts sooner on a derailleur system than on a Rohloff or other IGH system, so the derailleur costs likely are a bit higher with added frequency.  And an eight speed cassette likely costs about a third more than a Rohloff sprocket.

My road bike is a 10 speed with a Campy cassette.  Chain is about 20 USD but the Miche 12-29 cassette that I am using on it is pushing about 70 USD, so replacing both is a bit under 100.  Thus roughly double the cost of an eight speed system.  Note here, I priced a 10 speed cassette for a Campy drivetrain, which is what I have.  I am clueless how that compares to Shimano or Sram 10 speed cassettes.

Of the two options above (eight or ten speed), I find that on an eight speed system, I wear out the 16T and 18T sprockets first, the 21 soon after.  So, I am replacing the cassette when only three sprockets are worn out.  But I think on a 10 speed system, that I spread most of the wear over more sprockets, so that cassette might last a bit longer than on an eight speed cassette if I spread most of the wear over the middle four or five sprockets.

Since the latest fad is 11 or 12 speed 1X systems, that is where the costs can really go up.  The recommendation to replace a chain drops to 0.5 percent instead of 0.75 percent on an 11 or 12 speed system.  And the cassettes are often a three digit cost in USD.

I suspect that on a 1X11 or 1X12, that you might be replacing that cassette when you have only worn out two or three of the sprockets.  If that 11 or 12 speed system was a 2X system, then I think you would spread the wear over more sprockets on the cassette than with a 1X system.
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This discussion from 14 years ago still has relevance...
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4655.0#msg22907

Best, Dan.

I had not read that before, but then I bought my Rohloff in 2013, so might have read the first sentence and moved on.

Thanks for remembering that.
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Not sure if PH’s image of a worn sprocket is Ian Wallis’s or not, but I have seen images of the worn sprocket he left pinned on a wall in an Australian bar and it looked very similar!  If I Remember Right he rode from UK Southwards and the original chain and sprockets were only replaced very late on his journey.

Perhaps we all change parts much too soon???  A 1:1 chain system has a lot more tolerance than derailleurs.
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This discussion from 14 years ago still has relevance...
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4655.0#msg22907

Best, Dan.
 
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