Recent Posts

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General Technical / Re: Cateye wireless battery replacement
« Last post by Andre Jute on May 23, 2026, 11:13:42 PM »
Try this, Matt:

A. If the cover is rectangular or square and runs to the edge of the device

1. Press hard on the inside edge of the battery cover. This should be the edge furthest away from where it slides off the main body.

2. Holding the pressure, slide towards the edge.

3. To refit, study the edge of the battery compartment and the underside of the cover. Match them them and apply pressure, then slide until the lock clicks and the back end of the cover is flush with the side of the device.

B. If the cover is round and fits flush

1. Press hard around the edge until you feel some give under your finger.

2. Hold the pressure and rotate counter-clockwise.

3. To refit, study the edge of the battery compartment and the underside of the cover. Match them them and apply pressure, then rotate clockwise.

C. If neither of the above works

1. Inspect the sides of the device, pressing to see if the plastic is thinner and more flexible at any point. Press hard when you find the spot and insert a small screwdriver to keep the clip open, using the minimum force.

2. On the other side of the device, there will be either a tongue fitting into a slot, in which case the two parts have already parted, or a similar bendy clip as the one you have a screwdriver marking directly opposite. Insert another small screwdriver to press the clip inwards.

3. Refitting is the reversal of this procedure, with the two parts clipping together with minimum force against the weak battery spring.

Good luck.


2
General Technical / Re: Cateye wireless battery replacement
« Last post by Matt2matt2002 on May 23, 2026, 10:16:03 PM »
An inner cover and an outer cover?  Inner cover, I would expect it to have a slot if it is supposed to be rotated, or an arm that sticks out to one side.

If you have the model number, perhaps the instructions are out on the internet?
Thanks Mick
The picture shows the outer cover removed. It's below the main body.
The cover for the battery won't come off. There is no groove for a screwdriver blade. And nothing to grip the cover with.
Very frustrating.
I don't have the model number to hand but do have the printed instructions that came with the unit.
The instructions don't make it clear how to remove the battery.

Thanks for your comments
3
General Technical / Re: Cateye wireless battery replacement
« Last post by mickeg on May 23, 2026, 08:18:56 PM »
An inner cover and an outer cover?  Inner cover, I would expect it to have a slot if it is supposed to be rotated, or an arm that sticks out to one side.

If you have the model number, perhaps the instructions are out on the internet?
4
General Technical / Re: Cateye wireless battery replacement
« Last post by UKTony on May 23, 2026, 07:56:53 PM »
Not familiar with this type as I use a wired  basic Cateye 7 which only has one battery in the display unit.  If there’s no slot for a coin/ screwdriver maybe, and it’s just a maybe, try pushing the battery cover down and twisting anti clockwise abit like those childproof bottle tops which you press down then twist to unlock. Hope that make sense.
Cheers
Tony
5
General Technical / Cateye wireless battery replacement
« Last post by Matt2matt2002 on May 23, 2026, 06:13:17 PM »
Hi folks.
Last month I replaced the battery in the wheel sensor and today there's a blank screen on the main body.

I removed the outer cover but cannot flip off the cover over the battery itself.
I've tried unscrewing it but there's nothing to grab/ grip.
Nowhere for a screwdriver to fit in.

I hope the picture explains my situation.

I think old age has worked it's magic.

Any thoughts or tips much appreciated.

Matt
6
Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Alternative to Andra 30 rims
« Last post by Andre Jute on May 23, 2026, 03:15:33 AM »
ERTRO and Schwalbe are in effect saying, If you choose rims that are narrower than 40 percent of the width of your tyres, you'll have to inflate to a higher pressure to keep your tyres on the rims, which could lead to a catastrophic failure of the rim.

I did once destroy a new rim by inflating a 50 mm wide tyre to about 80 PSI. My idea was to use overpressure to properly seat the tyre beads on the rim. Doing that also destroyed the inner tube, but the tyre survived.

QED.

If it is necessary, I now use Schwalbe seating liquid (or washing-up liquid) to seat tyres properly on the rim.

I wish I had that advice when I fitted Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres.
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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Alternative to Andra 30 rims
« Last post by mickeg on May 22, 2026, 12:10:59 PM »
...
I did once destroy a new rim by inflating a 50 mm wide tyre to about 80 PSI. My idea was to use overpressure to properly seat the tyre beads on the rim. Doing that also destroyed the inner tube, but the tyre survived. ...

Thorn recommendations for maximum pressure in a rim have changed over time.  Last time I saw some numbers, I thought that the recommendations were a bit too conservative, but rims can be weaker than tires, especially if the rim has had brake wear and if the rims are corroded.

I wish all rims came with labels on them with that data.  My (now twenty plus years old) Mavic A719 rims did, photo attached.

I think I have put up to 60 psi in a 50mm tire, but not more than that.  I might have put 80 psi into a 40mm wide tire on the rear wheel of a touring bike with a heavy load, that was a really solid rim that was designed for touring, the now discontinued Salsa Gordo rim that I have on my Sherpa.

I think I have put 50 psi into a 57mm wide rear tire with a heavy load, that would have been the Andra 30.

I did a quick google search, found this:
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13100.0

And I posted this a decade ago:
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=11833.0




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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Alternative to Andra 30 rims
« Last post by Andyb1 on May 22, 2026, 08:36:25 AM »
‘Perhaps when you decide to retire the Rudge wheels, you could pressurize fat tyres on them progressively until they split the rims and let us know.’

The bike has Araya rims, about 15mm or 17mm id I would guess, and stamped on them is 26 x 1.50 as the tyre size to use.   The old 1.50 tyres have a MAX pressure rating of 40psi - incredibly low compared with a modern tyre of that size - and it makes me wonder how much pressure the rims were designed for.  Particularly after reading Martinf’s post.   I have a pair of little used 1.50 Marathon plus tyres on their way to me which have a minimum pressure of 55psi so might not have been the best choice!
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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Alternative to Andra 30 rims
« Last post by martinf on May 22, 2026, 08:12:58 AM »
ERTRO and Schwalbe are in effect saying, If you choose rims that are narrower than 40 percent of the width of your tyres, you'll have to inflate to a higher pressure to keep your tyres on the rims, which could lead to a catastrophic failure of the rim.

I did once destroy a new rim by inflating a 50 mm wide tyre to about 80 PSI. My idea was to use overpressure to properly seat the tyre beads on the rim. Doing that also destroyed the inner tube, but the tyre survived. The rim was a Gipiemme Mount, so I didn't buy any more of those.

If it is necessary, I now use Schwalbe seating liquid (or washing-up liquid) to seat tyres properly on the rim.
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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Alternative to Andra 30 rims
« Last post by Andre Jute on May 22, 2026, 02:59:37 AM »
That wider tyres need wider rims to operate at their best seems perfectly logical, but I can not help but think that the situation is more complex than the widest acceptable tyre simply being 2.5 x inner rim width as there are a few other variables……

Of course the situation is more complex. Tyres, even in automobiles, where there is enough money to add intellectual depth and do primary research, are still the least-understood of all the elements that make up a car. But what we're discussing is not primarily about the tyres, it is about their perfectly Newtonian mechanical effect on the rims.

ERTRO's 40% rim minimum, which I've just made a little easier for mental arithmetic by approaching it from the other side as maximum tyre width can be 2.5 times rim width because availability of rims is the limiting factor, are guidelines. The subtext is the wish that cyclists will do better than the mere minimum rim width.

there are a few other variables……eg

- tyre type (The Schwalbe 2.6 Pick-up tyres used by WorldTourer look like they have very strong sidewalls)
- tyre pressure
- load on wheel
- front or rear fitment

For obvious reasons the ERTRO guidance is likely to be conservative.

No, tyre pressure isn't the variant input here, it is an output result to answer to a potential problem caused by fat tyres to the survival of too-narrow rims. ERTRO and Schwalbe are in effect saying, If you choose rims that are narrower than 40 percent of the width of your tyres, you'll have to inflate to a higher pressure to keep your tyres on the rims, which could lead to a catastrophic failure of the rim.

Of course, ERTRO and Schwalbe will tend to err on the side of caution for legal and other understandable reasons. Who can blame them?

I am currently using 26 x 2.00 Dureme and Big Apple tyres on the current 17mm internal width M717 rims on my Raven (outside ERTRO guidelines) at 35 / 40 psi minimum with no apparent problems.  I would certainly fit wider rims if and when the wheels get rebuilt due to rim wear - but I can not justify making a change until then.

Edited to add:
Just replacing the tyres on my Rudge Montigue, guess they are from the 1990s / 2000s……26 x 1.50 but so weak and flimsey!   I would certainly not trust a wider version on narrow rims.

You're making my case, Andy. I too ride on Big Apples, 622x60mm tyres on 25mm internal width rims of known integrity, the tyres sometimes inflated as low as 1.5 bar and generally around 2 bar, which is 29psi. If your Big Apples are 50mm like your Duremes, your rim to ERTRO standards should be at least 20mm across the retainer beads, so your 17mm Mavics aren't really atrociously abused, and by going up to 35-40psi minimum tyre pressure, you're in very little danger of the tyre coming off the rim in normal operation. I suppose one could argue that you're trading considerable comfort for security.

Perhaps when you decide to retire the Rudge wheels, you could pressurize fat tyres on them progressively until they split the rims and let us know.

***
It does seem to me that the primary danger ERTRO was reacting to, of fat tyres on skinny rims being inflated to abnormally high levels to avoid the tyre unilaterally deciding to divorce the rim, and thereby creating a new danger, that the pressure would split the rim, has considerably receded now that good quality rims are extruded as a single formed rail to be cut, formed into a circle and welded, not as two halves or even three parts  spot-welded together. The only superior method in common use I can think of is to machine the rim from solid Aluminium or Magnesium which would inevitably result in a heavier rim than one which had controlled hollows forced into it during the extrusion process. About a quarter-century ago the Danish firm Biomega offered a bicycle created by the Australian industrial designer Marc Newson whose frame was of aluminum thermovacuum-formed in two longitudinal halves, which were then bonded together; I've long wondered why we haven't seen that technology in rims. https://marc-newson.com/mn-bicycles/
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