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General Technical / Re: Raven Tour face lift.
« Last post by Andyb1 on Today at 08:49:05 AM »
Hi Matt,
As George and Martin have indicated, a frame repaint may extend itself to a complete bike make-over!

My thoughts:
1.  Blasting the frame - there are different mediums that can be used.  No need to use anything too abrasive.  Obviously the EBB and steering bearings would need to be removed and personally I would make up wooden ‘pegs’ to push into those large holes (and the seat stem).  And put bolts in the M5 threaded holes that go into the frame.  That should help to keep the medium out of the frame, but there are still small drainage holes that might be temporarily filled with epoxy?   (If the blasting medium gets inside the frame it may later retain dampness and could migrate onto bearings…).

2.  Paint or powder coat?
Paint would be more expensive and need primer / base coat / top coat / laqueur.
Powder coat would be applied in one go.
With both processes there are a range of types / qualities.

New Thorn frame are finished by SJS with threads being cleaned out but a frame could be painted with bolts fitted so that threads are not painted (always a danger of damaging threads if they have to be cleaned out).

The danger of having one person blast it and another paint it is that the steel can start to rust before the new paint goes on.   If I get an exhaust blasted and repainted I get the person blasting it to repaint it immediately.

Alternatively…….
You have ridden a lot on that bike, and if you repaint it you will loose the patina that it must have gained from your trips.  Black is an easy colour to touch up if any areas are especially bad.

 


 
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General Technical / Re: Raven Tour face lift.
« Last post by martinf on Today at 08:47:56 AM »
Adding to George's list:

Wheels

I check the wheels every few years for rim wear and spoke tension/wheel truth.

Just done a fairly extensive overhaul on my old 650B utility bike. The rear rim is at just over 14,600 kms and starting to get a bit concave, but I reckon I can still use it for a year or two. Front rim doesn't seem very worn at 9,500 kms, unlike the older rear rim it has a wear indicator. Both rims were still true, so no need for any spoke adjustment. Rims wear relatively quickly on this bike as it is my preferred choice for local riding in bad weather and/or on tracks and paths. I use the front brake more than the rear, but rear rims wear more quickly, probably because the rear wheel picks up more muck than the front.

Front hub is a SON dynohub, so I don't do any maintenance other than cleaning the outside. Rear hub is an old Sturmey Archer S5/2, so I stripped that down, cleaned and relubricated it. It still works well after 56,000 kms.

With a Rohloff, I would just check the flanges, as these can sometimes crack. Not had this happen on any of my hub gear bikes, but in 1978 I did crack a flange on a derailleur hub falling on ice.   

Transmission

The chain hadn't been maintained for two years, so I took the ChainGlider off, wiped clean the chainring and sprocket, swapped the chain for another and cleaned the inside of the ChainGlider before refitting it. The latter had picked up a certain amount of black gunk, probably from a mix of dust and chain lube. The chain I took off was black, but not measurably worn, so I cleaned/relubed it and it will be going back on next time I do an extensive overhaul. 

Pedals and bottom bracket unit didn't need any maintenance. The gear cables and housings had only been on for a few years, and still worked smoothly, so I didn't replace them.

Brakes

I dismantled, cleaned and regreased the cantilever brakes, but I needn't have bothered as the grease on the insides was still good. These brakes had been on the bike for 35,000 kms. The old Deore XT brake levers from the early 1980's (64,500 kms) just needed a squirt of silicone lube and very slight tightening to reduce play. The brake cables and housings had been on the bike for more than twenty years, so I replaced with new, the rear inner cable was a bit rusty so I should probably have done this sooner. I replaced the brake pads, which had been on the bike for about 4 years, they were very worn.

Headset

Dismantled (except for the fixed cups), cleaned and regreased. This is a Stronglight X headset with needle bearings with 51,000 kms of use.

Stem/bars and seat post/saddle

Took the stem out of the fork, seat post out of the frame, put some anti-seize grease on them and refitted them. The Tange straight handlebars (steel) had a bit of rust after 55,500 kms but not too bad so I didn't change them. The Ergon handlebar grips were worn, so I replaced these with ESI Fatty grips, which don't last so long but are a bit more comfortable. The B66 Champion saddle (69,500 kms) just needed its regular treatment - I use Nikwax rather than the recommended Proofide.
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General Technical / Re: Raven Tour face lift.
« Last post by mickeg on Today at 12:41:39 AM »
New cables on rebuild.  If the outer housing on the shifter is not same length for both cables, it would be good if it was the same length.  Meaning the outer housing lengths should match.  You might want a third inner cable cut to the same length as the other cables to carry as a spare.  Is the outer housing in good shape, or should that be replaced?

If that bike uses an internal shift cable instead of EX box, do you want that cable replaced too?  That could involve some costly labor.

A maybe on brake pads?  That could cost more in labor than the cost of pads.

If drop bars, any particular bar tape you would prefer?  Color?

How good are the tires?

I think my Sherpa has a clear coat over the black.  The clear coat is also over the decals so the decals do not get rubbed off.  But the clear coat over the yellow paint on my Nomad Mk II flakes off, not sure if it was poorly prepped or what?  Is that something you would like?

Do a good inspection of the frame after sandblasted to see if there is any rust damage on the insides of the tubes.  I have occasionally seen on this forum photos of rust perforations on frame tubes.

My Nomad Mk II came with a piece of tape inside the headtube that covered the holes in the headtube to the top tube and downtube.  That way any water that got inside the headtube did not run down into the downtube or top tube, instead ran out of the bottom of the head tube.  A piece of tape is a really good idea there.

Make sure the serial number is visible and readable after the work is done.

I put a small drop of paint on my seatpost about a cm above the top of frame so I can easily see if my seatpost is in the right place or not.  If you did that before the work, you could set it up proper when the bike is returned to you without trial and error.

If you are one of the people that makes sure that the inside of the frame is greased where the seatpost is installed, you might plan to do that yourself when the bike is returned.

Take a photo of the stack of spacers on the steerer tube above the headset so you can get it set up the same later, just in case they do not keep records of the stem height on the steerer tube before disassembly.

I like to use blue (removable) threadlocker on rack bolts and fender bolts.  Most people don't do that.  Do you have a preference?
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General Technical / Raven Tour face lift.
« Last post by Matt2matt2002 on January 15, 2026, 07:49:33 PM »
Hi folks,
Opinions and views very welcome.

My black Raven Tour is 15+ years old and in need of a good face lift.
The paint work has been patched over the years and it's had a well used and hard life taking me on several tours abroad.
Due to my health situation I wont be using it for a couple more months.

I have located a nearby company that can sand blast and powder coat the frame.
I've also found a LBS that will strip the frame down and then reassemble the bike after the paint job.

What pit falls should I be aware of?
Also, what finish? Matt, gloss....?

I'm inclined to keep it black. I like the idea of using a local company rather than sending the frame away.

Many thanks in advance for your considered thoughts, opinions and advice,

The company usually looks after oil rig equipment but have done bikes in the past.
£100 flat fee.

Matt
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Member's Gallery / Re: Rebuilt Club Tour
« Last post by Andyb1 on January 14, 2026, 08:14:15 AM »
Great job, and perhaps having no decals makes it less of a target to steal?
If you do fit decals will you have to spray lacquer over the top?
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Member's Gallery / Re: Rebuilt Club Tour
« Last post by John Saxby on January 13, 2026, 07:13:59 PM »
Lovely bike, Adrian!  Good work by your Bridport firm.

Just curious:  what gearing do you have?  Thinking about the Abbotsbury Hill...

Cheers,  John
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Cycle Tours / Re: Hokkaido, Japan
« Last post by Andre Jute on January 13, 2026, 04:00:04 PM »
Ron S plays the Hollywood Dome! Marvelous photo.

That's a spectacular crane. We have cranes too*, descendants of a female I captured decades ago on a different part of the river where she was likely to starve if she didn't first feature as dinner for the fox family that lived in the lawyer's arboretum perhaps fifty paces away with his private bridge pointing straight from their cave to the crane's perch, hurriedly (it's a dangerous predator which ruined the winter-weight pigskin gloves I wore though the thick knitted wool lining saved my fingers) stuffed in a doctors's Gladstone that I repurposed as a rack bag, and released it at the salmon stairs where there is a bedrock island that would offer her relative safety from foxes and a rogue mink (Siberian, some idiot thought it could be a pet, and let it escape, and 20-some years later did it again; what a moron) which had already killed one of a pair of swan. That first crane's descendants have since colonized the river and all its tributaries. (Interestingly, the ever-more error-prone BBC put out a documentary on the "Return of the Cranes to Ireland after 300 years", I kid you nor. Nope, I didn't import our tourist attraction, I found it, already here, and a mate found her here, about a hundred paces from my front door, within the month.) But these cranes are Common Greys, not quite dull but certainly well camouflaged, not nearly as spectacular as your Hokkaido Red Crest. They likely share a common mainland Asian ancestry, as the Common Grey was introduced from Asia and has a red bald patch on its head, not a crest.

* Not to mention that my cross frame bike is a Kranich, which is German for crane.
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Member's Gallery / Re: Rebuilt Club Tour
« Last post by AdrianStone on January 12, 2026, 09:41:06 PM »
… and in British Racing Green too. Great looking bike; ready for spring.

I thought to keep it as close to the original as possible, BRG just looked right :)
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Member's Gallery / Re: Rebuilt Club Tour
« Last post by AdrianStone on January 12, 2026, 09:38:57 PM »
My Raven could do with a face lift.
May I ask who you used for the work?

Many thanks

Matt

It was a local engineering firm in Bridport, they've done frames before and the chap seemed to be enthusiastic about bikes - Townsend Engineering
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Cycle Tours / Re: Hokkaido, Japan
« Last post by RonS on January 12, 2026, 06:36:33 PM »
I'll close this one out with some ordinary looking shots (other than the rare bird), but there's a little story to go with each one. Hope you enjoyed riding along.

1  The Hokkaido red crested crane is one of the worlds rarest cranes. I felt so fortunate to have seen them on five different occasions.

2  Not the best picture, as I quickly grabbed it before this young fellow disappeared behind the building. I had met him at the campground the evening previous. In the morning, I asked him where his destination was for the day. "Obihiro" was his answer. I was also planning to be in Obihiro, however, my plan was to be there three days hence, as it was 200 km from our current location! I can't even imagine riding 200 km strapped to a 15+ kilogram backpack. Ouch!

3  Although not enshrined in law, it is generally accepted in Japan that as long as you're not bothering anyone, you can pretty much camp anywhere. When I couldn't find a commercial or municipally run campsite, I would just look for a city park, or if inclement weather was forecast for the overnight even a store awning. This was the first time I had come across a city park with a band shell. It turned out to work quite well as it kept the morning dew off the tent. The phone camera artificially brightens the scene. It was actually quite dark.

3  This ordinary photo of an ordinary delivery van exemplifies one of the reasons I keep returning to Japan. If you are unable to expand the picture on your screen to see what this van is carrying, I'll explain it. There's a case of Dewar’s whiskey, a case of José Cuervo tequila, a case of sake, quite a few beer kegs, and some other cases that I couldn't make out. Yes, this is a truckload of booze. It was parked on the side of the street in Sapporo, a city of 1.9 million. It was wide open. The vehicle engine was running. The driver was nowhere in sight, probably in one of the nearby restaurants dropping off his cargo. Why?  Because he knew that when he returned, everything would be just as he had left it.
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