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1
Transmission / Re: Replace chain
« Last post by jul on Today at 09:52:43 PM »
For information, 36x16  transmission,  aboie 33km/h you can no longer pedal, sometimes it’s frustrating

Depends on your pedaling cadence.

I generally pedal relatively fast at about 90 rpm (tours par minute). With a 36x16 combination that translates into 36 km/h, which is way above a sustainable speed for me on the level, unless I have an exceptionally strong tail wind.

If necessary I can increase pedal cadence for very short periods. With a 36x16 combination at 120 rpm in the highest gear that would be 48 km/h. In practice, that kind of speed is not really useful for me, except perhaps when I negotiate medium size roundabouts, where I feel safer if I am doing roughly the same speed as most of the motor vehicules. 

My current highest gearing on any of my bikes is 42x19 on my Rohloff equipped Raven Sport Tour. I use that bike mainly for day rides with little luggage. Top gear with 42x19 is slightly lower than with a 36x16, the maximum speed I managed recently when pedaling (downhill) was 53 km/h at 137 rpm, just to see if I could still do that at age 69. But normally I would just stop pedaling and coast down the hill.

Yep, i did a mistake, 36x16 transmission, you can ride max at 43 km/h..

At 47km/h you pedal as a salade drainer
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Stem bolt size question
« Last post by mickeg on Today at 03:32:12 PM »
Ian, a time-honored way to remove rounded socket screws is to pound in the next larger size Torx bit. The damaged screw usually twist out easily with this method.

Best, Dan.

I have never heard of that.  That is BRILLIANT.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Stem bolt size question
« Last post by mickeg on Today at 03:30:48 PM »
Bolt thread size or wrench size?

Usually, but not always the stem bolts that tighten onto the steerer tube are a 5mm wrench size, thread size 6mm.  But there may be exceptions out there.

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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Stem bolt size question
« Last post by Danneaux on Today at 03:29:31 PM »
Ian, a time-honored way to remove rounded socket screws is to pound in the next larger size Torx bit. The damaged screw usually twist out easily with this method.

Best, Dan.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Stem bolt size question
« Last post by UKTony on Today at 03:05:34 PM »
The bolts on my Deda Zero stem are M5 by 16mm. AK is 4mm. I think the bolt heads, albeit tapered,  would be classed as socket head. Spare matching bolts for various Deda stems are available eg from Condor Cycles.
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Non-Thorn Related / Stem bolt size question
« Last post by in4 on Today at 12:56:08 PM »
Anyone know what size bolt this is? It’s on my Deda stem and it’s  ’rounded off’ probably because I used the wrong size hex/allen key. I think it’s an M5. I’m not sure what the correct description is for the top of the bolt. Tapered crown perhaps?
TIA
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by in4 on Today at 10:28:55 AM »
Brilliant, Andre. Have you thought of writing as a career!?  🤣
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by jul on Today at 10:20:48 AM »
Brillant Andre   8)
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by Andre Jute on Today at 07:47:16 AM »
I'm curious to know if a used Brooks saddle have to be replaced by a new one..

If yes, how can we know ?

There's a tensioning bolt under the nose of the Brooks saddle. You take a one-eighth turn on it when the saddle starts looking hollow (the proper English is swaybacked -- don't ask me why: English isn't my first language, by half a dozen or so, so I would have said that if we have to have a horsey metaphor it should be lordosis, an equine spine symptom). In your case maybe a quarter-turn. When you've used up all the thread on adjustment bolt, you take the bolt to a welder and ask him to weld on a longer piece of threaded rod, same diameter and thread count per inch. If you're worried about the appearance of your clearly neglected saddle, buy some neat foot oil from your local saddlery (more £$%^&* horses), pour the contents of the can into a baking dish or a bowl large enough to take the saddle and soak first the top and then bottom in the neat foot oil, 10-20 minutes per side. You do that only once, then a thin layer of Proofide once a year only on top. After the short soak in neat foot oil lay the saddle aside for a few days to dry out a bit, then polish only the top with a soft cloth. Tension with your longer bolt and you're good to go for several more years.

A Brooks saddle is like a Catholic wife, you marry it for life, no divorce.
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