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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by in4 on Today at 11:20:55 AM »
That sounds like a simple but effective solution. I'll look into that. Thanks.
I already have some male and female velcro straps that I've used to secure the CLF's base across the rear rack so I might be able to modify that set up.
Thanks again

Dan, that sounds like a very useful project to pursue. I'll look forward to seeing the prototype in due course.

I really like the CLF but I've rarely used it. That's primarily because it is awkward to take on and off if you're not using a Carradice bagman rack, more so if you already have a Thorn rack fitted. I think I last used it when I cycled down the west coast of Eire and carried my tent in it; leaving the CLF attached.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by Danneaux on Today at 12:39:42 AM »
Not exactly what you asked for, Ian, but...

Among my many projects on the burner is a DanneauxMade quick-release mount for *any* saddle rails.

I have some billet aluminum I plan to use to sandwich the saddle rails, clamped by a short (think seatpost collar) quick-release. The usual Carradice hardwood dowel will be reinforced on the outside of the bag with some half-round aluminum tubing (i.e. sectioned seatpost of handlebars...or replaced entirely eith tubing), secured through the lower billet clamp, tubing, bag fabric, and hardwood using longer bolts of the same diameter as original.

My goal here is to make my Carradice Camper Longflap mountable to virtually any saddle with exposed rails and, further, to make it quick-release de/mountable so I can take it quickly into a store with me while shopping or inside my tent to unload at my leisure if rain is bucketing down.

I've a few projects ahead of this one, but have assembled all the materials and it looks both simple and viable, which pushes for completion soonish.

Best, Dan.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by Andyb1 on October 15, 2026, 09:40:18 PM »
Rok-straps might work well to hold your bag longitudinally on the rack.  They come in two halves and each half has a loop at the end.  You would feed the strap around the side of the rack and back through the loop, do the same with the other half of the strap on the opposite side of the rack, clip the two haves together and then tighten.  The straps and clips are flat material and strong, and one half is elastic so they stay tight.   Two straps needed.  Have a look at their web site.
Safer and more secure than bungees with hooks.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by martinf on October 15, 2026, 07:19:46 PM »
Not tried it, but the Carradice Bagman Quick Release Expedition Saddlebag Rack doesn't require saddle loops.

Until recently I was using something with a similar function, a Lord Uplift, this used to be sold mail order (30-40 years ago) by the chap that made them.

Visible in the first photo in the thread below:

https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=12048.0
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A Carradice Camper Longflap will fit lengthwise on the top of a Thorn rear rack, but I haven't tried to fix a saddlebag to the rack in this position.

It would be easier to hang it off one side, and stabilise it with a strap round one of the rack struts.

But for me, the main point of using a traditional saddlebag is to avoid fitting a rack to the bike. If I have a rack I use pannier bags. Usually just one small one for day rides. For carrying more luggage I use two small, medium or large panniers depending on how much capacity I need.

With a stiff rack (Thorn or Tubus), I don't notice any difference in handling when carrying just one lightly loaded pannier bag.   
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by martinf on October 15, 2026, 05:50:09 PM »
Quote from: jul on October 15, 2026, 11:55:31 AM
My rivet are rusty because i stored my bike in a garage who sometimes there is a humid atmosphere .. and probably also  the contact with my Cotton blanket  ::)

From 1980 to 2021 my garage was quite humide, with condensation in winter dripping down from the (thin) corrugated roof. So I tried to park all the bikes in places where the drips didn't fall on them.

Just before the 2021 COVID lockdown I hired a van and bought the material necessary to insulate the inside walls of the garage and under the roof. It took quite a lot of time and effort to do the work, but the garage is much drier in winter now. It's better for leather bike saddles, but also for steel tools and some of the other stuff I keep in the garage. Even so, leather and tools kept in my garage still need a certain amount of maintenance, but not so often since 2021.
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Non-Thorn Related / Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by in4 on October 15, 2026, 12:58:09 PM »
Bit of a domino effect this one.
Looking to change my B17 for something with a cut-out ( Sella SMP trek or similar )
This saddle does not have saddle loops but I can buy them from SJS.
Alternatively I was thinking about mounting the saddle bag longitudinally; along the length of the rack. There must be a work around. I wondered if anyone had tried. One advantage I thought of is that the load would be well supported on the rack and not ‘bounce around’ like it might do if conventionally mounted, even with the Carradice Bagnan support.
My aim is to have a lightweight touring ( none camping)  set up with the Camper Longflap, Ortlieb Ultimate bar bag and maybe a small frame bag.
TIA
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by jul on October 15, 2026, 11:55:31 AM »
My rivet are rusty because i stored my bike in a garage who sometimes there is a humid atmosphere .. and probably also  the contact with my Cotton blanket  ::)
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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Schwalbe Supreme failure
« Last post by Andyb1 on October 15, 2026, 11:15:10 AM »
It is the pump I usually don’t have…….
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Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Schwalbe Supreme failure
« Last post by martinf on October 15, 2026, 08:41:21 AM »
Quote from: UKTony on October 14, 2026, 08:51:36 PM
Apparently, bank notes make good emergency tyre boots to prevent the inner tube bubbling out of a tear in the sidewall. Not tried it myself.

I'd heard of that one, but except on short local rides I generally have my touring tool kit with the canvas tyre boot and piece of lightweight tyre.

I don't think a bank note would have been any use for the times I have had a ruptured sidewall, generally the tyre carcass distorts and I feel a "thumping" while riding due to the bulge. The only thing that has (mostly) worked for me once that has happened is to reduce tyre pressure as much as possible and hope that it is possible to get home, or to a bike shop, before the rupture gets too bad to ride on.

But some kind of tyre boot made from fairly strong material can work to prevent a damaged sidewall (as in the photo posted by Jul) from rupturing. 

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Not quite the same problem, but I did recently get caught out on a short ride when I only had my minimalist toolkit - I had a puncture, put the spare tube in and found out that the spare was punctured (or maybe perished around the valve). No puncture repair kit in the minimalist toolkit.

So I cut a fairly long section out of the spare tube, slit it lengthways, wrapped it around the puncture in the original tube and pumped up the tyre. That was good enough to get me home and the tyre wasn't yet completely flat the next morning.   

So after that I added a small puncture repair kit to my minimalist toolkit.
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by martinf on October 15, 2026, 07:57:19 AM »
Quote from: jul on October 14, 2026, 01:52:45 PM
After to have tighten little the s
crew, the leather tor..

Is it normal ?

No. The rivets are very rusty, it looks like that saddle has been left outside in the rain for a long time.

I still have the first Brooks B17 saddle I bought in 1977. I mistreated that saddle by using too much neatsfoot oil too often, so it got soft and I stretched it more than I should have. The second photo shows where the rivets at the front have left a gap, the third photo shows how much I tightened the adjustment nut.

And the leather has worn so much that it is hardly possible to see the Brooks logo stamped on the side. But it is still rideable after 46600 kms, though not so comfortable as my other Brooks saddles.

It has been ridden "a lot" in the rain, but I nearly always use a cover (often just a plastic bag) when I leave the bike outside in rain, even for short stops. And as I used to use a traditional cycling cape, it rarely got completely soaked while riding. When it did get really wet I nearly always (not always possible on a long tour) made sure it dried out properly before storing the bike, to the extent that I (very occasionally) took it off the bike and brought it into the house to dry. 

My other Brooks saddles have been treated differently. I use a wax designed for care of leather boots (Nikwax or similar) on the saddle top about once every three months, depending on use. Plus very occasionally on the underside.

I still use neatsfoot oil bought from a horse accessories place, it probably has some kind of fungicide as an additif. Just a small amount on a rag to wipe saddles on the bikes that aren't getting used much in winter (mainly my wife's bikes), this is to stop or cure mould forming. 

The B66 Champion I bought in 1987-1988 is in better shape than my first Brooks saddle, despite having been ridden for over 70000 kms.
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