In theory, with a single-speed bike, like the majority of modern hub gear bikes and virtually all Rohloff-equipped bikes, you can run a transmission set of the chainring, sprocket and chain into the ground until the first of them breaks, then replace them all at once. The benefit of this method is supposed to be that the components will all have worn together and thus fit together optimally for their state of wear until the end, the expectation being that this method would deliver the greatest possible mileage from the set and, as a bonus, avoid fitting a new chain to worn teeth, which will ensure that the new chain gets to only half the mileage of a chain fitted to new teeth or reversed gears.

"In theory" means I haven't tried it, among other reasons because the underlying assumption above is that all the components have roughly similar lifespans, which just isn't true on my bike, where the Surly stainless steel chainring will very likely have a service life in excess of a magnitude larger than the KMC X8 chains I use, and the Rohloff sprocket will have a lifespan at least 5x the chain life; in all of this the qualification is "in my zero maintenance paradigm, in which I run the chain for its entire life (to half-a-percent wear at which point, at about 4500km, I chuck it off at the Rohloff oil change) on the factory lube with nothing added, inside a Chainglider". Note also another assumption, that there is a whole link-and-a-bit chain adjustment length built into the bike, which isn't true of eccentric bottom bracket adjusters as fitted to Thorn bikes, or even on most bikes with track (slotted) frame ends at the rear of the bike, though Rohloff's own "slider" axle hangers (for which they'll give OEMs blueprints free of charge) have the "correct" length for all likely needs, including this one.

The KMC E1 is reputed to be a good chain but not cheap.  It looks like it has done well.  Perhaps helped by your 45 / 19 ratio?
The chainwheel being alloy probably explains the wear - but if you can flip it then it will also do a good total mileage.
If you fit a new E1 and flip both chainwheel and sprocket then in another 22,000 km everything will be due for a change.

I'm on the same chain, similar ratios, get the same sort of distance, never less than 20,000 km, over 25k a couple of times, haven't pushed my luck to 30k yet. Always flip both together, then there's nothing to change mid cycle.

I'm a masher fallen among butterflies spinning an unearthly cadence. Before I went to Rohloff, stainless steel chainrings and the Chainglider, I was lucky if I got a thousand miles on a chain. So you don't just need to convert Chris the OP's sterling achievement to miles, you further want to divide by 13.67. Though thanks for the thought.

The green glow around me isn't Spring bursting out in my study, it is envy of someone who gets 22,000km on a chain.

Quote from: Andyb1 on May 03, 2026, 10:45:23 PM

The KMC E1 is reputed to be a good chain but not cheap.

I use these for most of the hub gear bikes I maintain. With ChainGliders if possible. My take on this is that the higher price over a standard chain is compensated by longer chainring life (except for Rohloff the costs of rear sprockets are cheap enough to be ignored). Plus less time spent on chain maintenance.

With Rohloff / chainglider I am using cheap chains - Sram PC870.  £15 at Halfords.  It is what was fitted on the bike when new and I now use two PC870 chains which I swop around every 5000 miles……it will take me a few years to wear them both out as their projected life looks around 15,000 miles each……they may outlast me.


Without a chainglider I would definitely fit a better quality chain - like a KMC E1 EPT.  (AFAIK the EPT bit just means it has better rust protection). £30 at Halfords.