Components?  I see no great advantage for components that could otherwise be made of aluminum or stainless steel.

That said, I have always wanted a titanium bike.  Did I need it?  No.  But it was some bling that I always wanted.  I got lucky, got a great deal on a titanium touring frame made by Lynskey.  Built it up in 2017.  I really like the bike.  But knocking a kg or two off of the weight of a touring bike that otherwise could be made from steel is not really cost effective for the higher cost.  I would not have paid full price for the frame I got.

Other people that I have met that had titanium frames really liked them, but the only thing I can think of where titanium continues to be used is for frames. 

And only a few frame makers actually build up titanium forks to go with their frames.  I do not know why titanium forks or handlebars are extraordinarily rare.

I think Tubus makes a rack from titanium that costs a LOT, but in my opinion it does not have any great advantage over steel.

What do you have in mind?

Hi all, 

I’m curious what people here think about titanium as a material for bike parts. Is it really the best option, or is stainless steel good enough for most people? I’ve seen quite a few people say stainless does the job just fine, so I’m wondering when titanium actually makes sense. 

I’m also interested in how much weight saving matters to different riders, and what people usually change first when they want to lighten a bike. 

I work with bicycle components, but I’m not promoting anything here — just interested in hearing what riders think.

Cheers

Alloy seat posts are usually anodised, and that should help stop corrosion just as well as paint.   But it obviously does not!

Often MTB style bars can be cut shorter and I personally find that gives me a better, narrower, position for road use.   One thing to watch out for, a lot of modern MTB bars are for ‘oversized’ clamps.

As PH has said, there are lots of different shapes of handlebar.   The MTB ones I use are 1990s style, almost straight.  The straight bar position can be made to be very similar to using the top of drop bars and if short bar ends are used they can give a position very similar to being on the hoods.  On one bike I use Ergon GP2 grips which have a built in bar end, on another cheapo ebay ergonomic grips and shortened alloy MTB bar ends.

Ergon grips can be bought with a shorter RH grip to accommodate the rohloff shifter, but I guess on a Sherpa you have derailleurs?

As always, Sheldon (R.I.P) has the answers:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

I fought a 3 week long battle with a secondhand Fuji Track frame and seatpost a few years ago, I tried WD40, Plus-Gas, gearbox fluid and acetone mix, clamping the seatpost in a bench vice and turning the frame, then tried dissolving the seatpost with caustic soda (aluminium post in a steel frame) with no joy. Eventually I bolted 2 hacksaw blades together, cut the top of the post off and after several slow and careful sessions managed to cut the post into 4 strips from the inside, grip them with mole-grips and twist/pull them out. I now have the remains mounted on a plaque in my garage to remind me that greasing seatposts is part of regular maintenance.

You mention trying to get more leverage but not what leverage tricks you've tried yet. If you have an old scrap saddle try putting this on the post, you can then hit it, twist it, put it in a vice etc without worrying about damaging your good saddle.

Personally if I couldn't shift a seatpost after a few days soaking and some leverage, and the frame was a nice one that I didn't want to risk damaging, then I would now send the frame off to a specialist. There are companies out there with a pulling machine that will safely remove it for £80.