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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: oil puddle during sprocket change
« Last post by PH on Today at 12:01:29 pm »
Just an idea, rather than a theory - Maybe the oil that was behind the sprocket was already there? maybe it wasn't the fresh oil you'd just added.
E-wan may never need to unscrew the carrier again, so advice on doing so may be redundant.  Though just for interest, I use the squeeze method for breaking the bond, wheel on lap, chainwhip and spanner close together and squeeze with both hands.
If normal should I now perform another oil change to replace the lost oil?
If you've bought bulk oil and want the reassurance, it'd do no harm and isn't a huge expense.  I don't think it necessary, Rohloff say that even if you lost all the oil there would be enough coating the parts to last till your next scheduled oil change. The oil change method I use, similar to that recommended by Andy Blance, only leaves 7ml of lose oil in the hub, I'm pretty sure that's all disappeared before it's due for a change.
I’m building my hub into a new rim. Wish me luck!. On the advice of lots of people I’m using a Ryde Andra 30 rim - 700c / 622.
Whose recommendation?  It is the go to for rim braked heavy duty touring use, or in 26" where Rohloff specific drilling is available. But it looked from your other posts that that wasn't the sort of bike you are building. For lighter touring use (But still touring) SJS/Thorn usually use the DT Swiss TK 540, which would probably be my choice. It's not a huge deal, the 700c Rohloff on my Mercury is on a heavy Sputnik rim, because the wheel pre-dates the bike, and though it wouldn't be my choice for this bike I'd rather put up with it than disturb the wheel. 
For spoke length, there's no substitute  for measuring the ERD of the rim yourself, even SJS's website has got it wrong in the past, I know that adds a second postage fee, but it's a lot cheaper than getting it wrong.
I built one of my Rohloff wheels myself, but only because the wheelbuilders I'd trust were closed for Covid.  I've built a few other wheels but the value of a Rohloff I'd rather leave to an expert.  I was lucky as I already had an SJS wheel and simply copied that. There's a thread somewhere on here explaining why SJS choose to build 1X, rather than the handbook recommended 2X, though of course deviation from the Rohloff instructions on your own build may impact the warranty.
Non-Thorn Related / Re: Brooks Conquest springs
« Last post by mickeg on Today at 01:19:53 am »
The Stronglight chainset that failed was a cheap steel chainwheel / alloy crank set up riveted together with little bracing in the central area.  Nothing like the good quality chainsets that Stronglight (used to?) make.

I think all of the ones I have seen were bolted not riveted, so you have seen some lower budget ones that I was not aware of.

Thanks for clarifying that.
SJS has built up lots of Rohloff wheels with Andra 30 rims, ask them.  It is my recollection that they deviated slightly from the Rohloff suggestion for spoke length.  I do not recall what nipple lengths they use, but it might be an extra long one.  I used normal Sapim nipples, and they do not stick out of the rim very far.

I used the table provided by Rohloff for spoke length using the ERD from SJS website for the Andra 30 rims when I built my wheels.

When I bought my Andra 30 rims from SJS a decade ago, I wanted one rim with normal drilling (front wheel) and one with Rohloff drilling.  When I received the rims, one rim had a tag on it with a hand written "Rohloff".
Note the Rohloff advice at and, in particular that the spoke lacing should note be more than 2 cross and flange support rings should be fitted to the hub (I think recent hubs have these fitted in the factory). The hub dimensions are here
There are several online calculators for spoke length. You would need to input certain measurements. I think, however, that SJS have built up so many wheels with Andra 30 rims that an email to them will answer your question, especially if you are buying the spokes from them.
Good luck
I’m building my hub into a new rim. Wish me luck!. On the advice of lots of people I’m using a Ryde Andra 30 rim - 700c / 622. I’m also going to use the Rohloff spokes that are sold by SJS cycles. So far so good.

But which length do I need? There are options ranging from 232 to 297. I’ve drawn a blank Googling for the answer. Any help very welcome.

Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: oil puddle during sprocket change
« Last post by RonS on May 17, 2024, 12:00:45 am »
I use an" impact wrench" style method for removing the sprocket. That is, once the chain whip and wrench are set up opposite to each other I lift the wheel about 6 inches off the ground and drop it and push down on the wrenches at the same time.  This usually gives enough shock load that it really doesn't take much effort to break the sprocket free. It can pretty much be removed by hand after that, so, like mickeg, I just lay the wheel flat on the ground, sprocket up. That way there is almost no oil loss.
Non-Thorn Related / Re: Brooks Conquest springs
« Last post by Andyb1 on May 16, 2024, 11:42:40 pm »
Agree with what you have written Mickeg about the Conquest only taking out the buzz of rough roads, not helping much with bigger bumps, but that improvement in comfort is worth having.  When I had a hardtail MTB I was amazed how well it ran over corrugations downhill but at most other times I kept the forks locked to improve control and to make the bike more efficient when pedalling.   I have ridden other people’s bikes with suspension in the seat stem but I found them awkward to get on and off and felt I could fall over too easily.   So while the Conquest improves things only a little I think I will stick with it.

The Stronglight chainset that failed was a cheap steel chainwheel / alloy crank set up riveted together with little bracing in the central area.  Nothing like the good quality chainsets that Stronglight (used to?) make.
Lighting and Electronics / Re: Wahoo Elemnt Roam V2 GPS Bike Computer
« Last post by RonS on May 16, 2024, 11:08:09 pm »
I’m back from Japan, but that’s a story for another thread. I want to share my experience with the new Wahoo Elemnt Bolt.
Was it flawless? Definitely not. There was never a day where I didn’t need assistance from the phone and Google Maps 2 or 3 times. However, I found out last time that Google and Apple themselves are both far, far from perfect when it comes to routing in Japan.

First, to answer Matt’s question, once the Japan map was loaded onto the Bolt via the Wahoo app, importing the GPX file from Komoot was a simple process, and the map showed up fine. Sometimes, the GPS and Wahoo base map would differ slightly, and I would get a warning that I was off course, because the dot on the screen and the line on the map did not lineup 
Japan’s mountains are also  criss crossed with thousands upon thousands  of tiny forest roads, called rindo. Sometimes these were on the Komoot map, but not the Wahoo base map  There were a few times when I was obediently following the Komoot breadcrumb trail, and the Wahoo became completely confused because there was no longer a road to follow. Pulling out the phone didn't help, because the track I was on was not on GoogleMaps.
So, Matt, if you are still thinking of a GPS unit for your Thailand trip, I think that there will be no problem with importing the GPX from Komoot on to Wahoo’s base map . If Google maps gave you reliable directions on your phone, it should not be a problem on the GPS. Japan seems to be a challenge for every routing program I have used.
If I could turn back the clock and do it again, would I get the the same unit? I would have to say for touring I would recommend a unit with a larger screen, like the Roam, or a similar sized Garmin. The battery life, weather sealing (it rained a lot) and visibility in sunlight, however, made it well worth the investment compared to just a phone. I hope this helps anyone who might be on the fence as to whether or not to get a GPS unit versus a phone.

Perhaps creating routes via other apps might be worth exploring. I’ve created routes using Komoot and uploaded them to my Garmin quite easily. You’ll probably be able to do something similar with your Wahoo. My limited experience inclines me to think that some of the ‘suggested’ routes created are not always suitable for your riding style ie touring, road, training. For example a route I created for touring ( in Komoot) whilst in Portugal turned out to be quite nuts and wholly impractical; riding down 15thC cobbled and descending cart tracks besides an impressive castle. On a MTB fun, but on a loaded tourer, no.

Haha.  Ian, I found Komoot to have similar routing algorithms in Japan. It seems as though it draws a lot of its inspiration from Google maps walking directions, which do their utmost to keep you off of “highways”. In Japan, a lot of the””highways” it was avoiding were beautifully, quiet, well surfaced, secondary roads, often following river valleys, almost devoid of traffic. Komoot however, wanted me to leave the valley to climb a 15% grade for 400 m only to turn around and go right back down to the highway. I was very careful to "proofread" my Komoot route, and check to see that it wasn't taking me on unnecessary detours.

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