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Bikes For Sale / Re: THORN EXP’s for sale
« Last post by jul on Today at 07:31:23 PM »
Great bike, miss just a rohloff for me..   :'(

It seems very hard to find this type of bike with a Rohloff, if someone  have an idea where i can find it, let me know

Thanks


Good sale Peter
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Bikes For Sale / Re: THORN EXP’s for sale
« Last post by in4 on Today at 07:09:36 PM »
Lovely bikes to see. Someone is going to get a really nice one for the summer.
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Bikes For Sale / Re: THORN EXP’s for sale
« Last post by PeteFS on Today at 04:05:59 PM »
These bikes are now listed on EBay where photos and spec sheets can be seen.
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This is a very significantly upgraded Sherpa.  I bought it in August 2017 direct from Thorn as a bare frame and built it up (see detailed spec below), including Shimano Di2 electronic gears and S&S couplings.

The S&S couplings mean the frame can be split for travel and packed into a standard-sized case so no extra oversized airline fees.

I chose electronic gears to take pressure off my arthritic thumbs and they worked superbly –  very accurate, smooth gear changing at the touch of a button. But now as my arthritis has progressed I need a smaller bike, hence the sale.

The bike is in excellent condition and I only used it for two tours, a total of 2,029 km /1,260 miles. It’s been regularly maintained.
There is not a chip or other mark on the frame anywhere, even underneath the bottom bracket, chainstay.  The blue paint on either side of the top tube is faintly yellowed but this is  really slight and so is barely visible in the photos, however it’s only fair to mention it here (unclear what caused it but most probably sun-cream slightly tinting the paint). 

PRICE: £1,695 ovno plus delivery (or can be collected ). The parts for the Di2 gears alone originally cost £1,120  and the S & S couplings £700.
Pics below and more pics and information available on request!

I can fit it with straight, curved or drop handlebars to suit you, at no extra charge (details below).
If you can get to the Edinburgh or Kinross areas, you can have a fit on an indoor trainer and/or a trial ride.

COLLECTION / DELIVERY: if you can’t collect the bike, I will send it by a courier service. I’ve lots of experience of securely packing bikes for transport!
 If you live within about 100 miles or so of Edinburgh, I will be happy to deliver it, fully built-up, for cost of fuel only.

Security: as this is a valuable bike, it has a hidden, non-removable RFI 'Immobitag' so if lost or stolen, police can trace its registered owner. The  registration will be transferred free of charge to the new owner. This is much more secure than the frame number.  If sent by courier, a tracker will also be placed in the box.

OPTIONAL EXTRA: a genuine S&S coupling soft case to take this packed bike, in excellent condition, £175 (half new cost), OR a genuine S&S coupling 'Co-Pilot" hard case, also excellent condition, £300 (also half new cost), details below. 

Detailed specification:

frame & fork:
Thorn Sherpa MK3 Frame - blue - 475M for 52 mm forks - in 969 double-butted, seamless, heat-treated, cold-drawn, Cro-Mo steel.  Frame number SH475M1603
The height from ground to middle of the top-tube (ie the 'stand-over height') is approx. 71.5cm (2'4"). It would suit riders 152-164cm/5-5ft 4in.
Frame fitted with S&S couplers, special spanner included.  Rear brake cable fitted with JTek cable splitter/coupler to facilitate disassembly and reassembly of the frame.

26" Thorn ST26 steel fork - blue - 52 mm offset

wheels: 26"/ 559 aluminium 36-hole rims in black: front MX Mach 1 Evo2 with Shimano Deore hub; rear KC Comp on KX hub
tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Supreme HS382 Folding Tyre - 26 x 1.60 Inch , 42-559

drivetrain: 3x11 speed ultra-wide gearing, 165 mm cranks, giving a huge overall range of approximately 17 to 108 gear-inches
KMC 11 speed chain with “missing link” connector, near-new and less than 1.5% wear (see picture)
Shimano XT CS-M8000 11 Speed Cassette - 11-40T
Spa Cycles 104/64 PCD triple crankset, silver, forged alloy 165mm cranks, 48/38/30T
bottom bracket: 68mm shell English thread sealed cartridge taper spindle

di2 electronic gear system:Shimano SW-R671 TT shifters, chosen as they are easily operated with fingers, mounted on custom brackets and readily re-positioned to suit rider

Shimano FD-M9050 front derailleur, mounted on Shimano SM-FD905-H high clamp adapter
Shimano RD-M9050 rear derailleur, mounted on Wolftooth Roadlink to extend cassette capacity
Shimano DN-110A battery, mounted inside downtube just above lower S&S joint
Shimano SC-MT800 information display, handlebar mounted, shows selected gear, enables choice of synchro shift 1, synchro shift 2, or manual shift, plus wireless connection, battery charging port, derailleur adjustment etc
Shimano 4-port di2 junction B, mounted inside downtube just below lower S&S joint
Shimano di2 wires throughout, routed internally where possible, with extra protection for external cables (“spirowrap”, see pictures)
Shimano SM-BCR2 battery charging adapter and PC link interface – mains powered, USB socket for charging lead or connection to windows PC (leads included)
Shimano TL-EW02 wire connection/disconnection tool

brakes:Shimano ST-MC12 mechanical brake levers, right and left, with mechanical gear-shifters removed
Shimano Altus cantilever brakes, front and rear, with Aztec brake blocks

pannier rack:Blackburn alloy rear pannier rack in black included in the sale

saddle: Terry Butterfly Gel woman’s

handlebar:traditional swept back horizontal style.  HOWEVER you can choose one of the alternative handlebars show in the pictures and I will fit it before sale, using the same grips, levers etc.  If you choose the drop bars, I will fit those with Shimano di2 combined brake lever/gear shifters instead of the levers and shifters shown in the pictures. NB no cost for the fitting.

Optional extra: genuine S&S coupling cases:
Each case with a bicycle inside measures 26" x 26" x 10" which meets the typical airline standard maximum size limit of 62" combined (length + width + thickness).
More info on soft case at https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sjscycles.co.uk%2Ftransporting-bicycles%2Fs-and-s-machine-backpack-case-black
More info on hard  soft case at https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sjscycles.co.uk%2Ftransporting-bicycles%2Fs-and-s-machine-hard-bike-case-grey
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Transmission / Re: Matching sprocket and chainring to your cadence and heart rate
« Last post by Andre Jute on August 01, 2026, 12:19:32 PM »
One advantage of a front wheel hub motor is that you then have a 2 wheel drive bike, which can be useful in slippery conditions.

That's so true. I discovered twenty-odd years ago that my Gazelle Toulouse, a Dutch "vakansiefiets" (holiday bike, essentially a luxuriously fitted out commuter, too smart to leave at the station) had built-in ABS braking from the imbalance between Shimano's -43 limp rear roller brake* and a front disc brake. Nuanced brakes enabled me to set my personal downhill ton-up record on a steep downhill with a curve near the T-junction where the braking zone came to a sudden stop and step off the bike without breaking sweat, cool as a cucumber. (And the Gazelle's proprietary Switch stem, which could be set downwards, with reversed sit-up-and-beg bars, to put my back absolutely straight. The effort was also enabled by a truck, modified to suck out the air in front of me to tow me to the brow of the hill, where it pulled off before my measured run.) The pseudo-ABS enable me to brake much later and very smoothly, and come to a dead stop at the T-junction rather than go into the thorny gorse hedge across the road, for which I was prepared by wearing tight motorcycle racing leathers and helmet with a visor and HANS (a neck and head support). The limp, long obsolete -43 rear roller brake never once locked up and started sliding during the single run it took to reach a ton and change.

When I fitted the front electric motor, which I viewed as an educational tool, the impression was sharpened and reinforced: the limp rear of the bike nicely balanced the urge of the front motor and I never suffered a front washout from the extra weight in the front of the bike. Low learning curve.

*How do I know the -43 rear roller brake on the Toulouse was limp? Well, between the Toulouse and the Utopia Kranich with the hydraulic rim brakes, I acquired a Trek "Smover" which Trek Benelux had developed into a super-vakansiefiets with automatic gearbox and electronic active suspension, including front and rear the latest super-strong series -75 roller brakes, which were definitely not limp. In the end I came to hate them as requiring too much of the rider's attention even at the slow speed of a social ride, and at high speed they were more of a threat to the rider than the potholes, which really says something!

When I fitted a mid-motor to a newer bike, which had other advantages, I lost the ABS trick because it didn't occur to me in time to fit the then-available less strong Magura hydraulic rim brake at the rear and the strong one at the front, instead choosing the less strong -11 (today only cosmetically different from the more expensive -22) at both ends of the bike because I'm not a commuter riding between cars that may suddenly stop, but needed security from over-strong brakes or over-sudden brakes putting me in the ditch or over the handlebars on the curvaceous fast but rough downhills.

The regulars probably know what these bikes and components look like; passersby can see these bikes, including close-ups of the Shimano roller brakes and Magura rim hydraulics, at http://www.coolmainpress.com/BICYCLING.html

As an aside in keeping with the subject of this thread, a front motor lets you keep your favorite chainring, whereas a central motor is likely to require a dished chainring if you want to keep a straight chainline, and the dished rings may need more teeth to fit over the motor. For those of us who loved the 38x16 transmission, this could cause complication and expense because both chainring and sprocket may have to be changed to keep the transmission ratio the same as you're accustomed to. If on top of that you're a Chainglider aficionado, that adds a further layer of complication -- for a solution, check Martin's installation described above using the non-Rohloff Chainglider sprocket cover to custom-tune the transmission ratio. I didn't find this a big deal because previous unassisted cycling had made me relatively fit, so with the centre motor I replaced only the chainring with an inexpensive dished steel ring (I have good experience of steel chainrings, which I can't say for aluminium), and left the sprocket in place complete with the approved sprocket cover, and simply bought a new front Chainglider section, and presto! the chainline was not disturbed. I wish you the same luck!
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Transmission / Re: Matching sprocket and chainring to your cadence and heart rate
« Last post by Andyb1 on August 01, 2026, 08:47:55 AM »
One advantage of a front wheel hub motor is that you then have a 2 wheel drive bike, which can be useful in slippery conditions.
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I checked Ryde website, https://www.ryde.nl , a search for CSS only found some references to history.

I would be surprised if they are made again.  I suspect that SJS found some new old stock.
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General Technical / Re: Fitting a Bor Yeuh Front Low Rider Rack
« Last post by AdrianStone on July 30, 2026, 08:31:26 PM »
Hi Adrian,
Interesting that you say on your link that you have converted the bike from 26” to 700c rims.
What are your thoughts about this change?
What 700c tyre size are you using?

Sorry for the really late reply.  The wheels were changed before I got the bike, the tyres are 32mm Pasela Protite's, previously Pasela Tourguards. I don't have any experience of riding other bikes, but it feels great to me and I think it looks really good too :)
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General Technical / Re: Fitting a Bor Yeuh Front Low Rider Rack
« Last post by AdrianStone on July 30, 2026, 08:23:11 PM »
It's not too clear from your photographs but it looks as though the hoop is secured with P clips, and it may be wrongly assembled.

Is it possible to completely removed the hoop and swap the two pannier supports left to right. You should then be able to refit the hoop on the outside of the pannier supports.

So sorry, catching up. I'd not thought of that, I'll give it a go, thanks for the idea
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