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I would think that he will be contracted to drive so has no option?

At some point that contract will end and he will be able to make a choice.
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I think even F-1 fans often fail to realize the high fitness levels drivers possess and the work required to get and stay there in between stints behind the wheel.

Remember David Coulthard's neck? Built like a tree trunk -- a redwoood, at that. It didn't happen on its own.

Still, disappointing to see a ranked gravel rider abandon same for the tarmac and four wheels. The nerve!  ;) ;D

Great article, well found.

Best, Dan.
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Surely grounds for excommunication and being black-balled from The Lodge!?  ;D
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I'm too saddened by this to say any more. Go read it for yourself:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/articles/cv2d6p9en7wdo
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Pluses and minuses for changing either a sprocket or chainring
« Last post by in4 on October 06, 2026, 10:26:47 AM »
I wanted an extra 'granny gear' So from a 45 x 19 combo to a 39 x 19 combo seems the best option and gives me the 13.33% gearing reduction ie  one full lower gear. Additionally, I read that 'Rohloff only make steel splined sprockets for up to 21 teeth' 22T sprockets are intended for Gates belt drives.
I'm not considering a chainglider.

So, unless I wanted to gear lower again the 39 x 19 combo seems like the best option.
Interestingly the price of a new sprocket or chain ring is about the same in UK.

Many thanks for the helpful posts, appreciated.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Pluses and minuses for changing either a sprocket or chainring
« Last post by Andyb1 on October 06, 2026, 08:29:21 AM »
What ratio do you have now and what ratios are you considering?

I wanted to lower my gearing and went from 38/16 to 38/17 which effectively added one extra lower gear and removed the very top ratio.  My Raven has the older screw on rear sprocket and as I am near SJS, Nick there swopped sprockets for me (a special tool is needed).  I was lucky that the eccentric BB was initially almost fully tight (even though the chain had little wear) and by going to the fully loose position I could keep the same chain in use.  Chainglider parts were not changed.

The change was definitely worthwhile.  The lowest gear has changed from 17” to 16”.    I don’t miss the loss of the very top ratio and I can cycle up my local steep hill a lot easier.

Having odd number teeth on the back also means the sprocket will wear evenly as narrow and wide links alternate position every revolution (the chainwheel is N/W so the chain always has the same orientation on that).
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Pluses and minuses for changing either a sprocket or chainring
« Last post by martinf on October 06, 2026, 07:35:52 AM »
Depends on several factors. The first thing is to decide what gear range you want.

Then you can usually get there by changing either the sprocket or the chainring, or maybe both.

If you want to fit a ChainGlider, that limits the options. There are only a few possibilities for compatible chainring size, Chainglider front parts are 38, 42, 44 and 48 IIRC. Same goes for sprockets, with the constraint that smallish sprockets need the special Rohloff compatible Chainglider rear part, which IIRC is different for threaded and splined sprockets. Large sprockets 19,21,22 are in practice compatible with the standard Chainglider rear part as used for Shimano Nexus 8 hubs. Another thing to consider is that Chainglider front parts aren't necessarily compatible with all the rear part options, IIRC the 48T front part won't work properly with the 19-22T rear part. Chaingliders also work best with thin chainrings, the Surly stainless steel chainrings work well for me and are reversible. But I have one bike fitted with a wide TA ring using  1/18" chain and a 1/8" sprocket, this works OK with a Chainglider but needed a "breaking in" period.

Changing the chainring can be economique if you have a stock of spare chainrings. I did this with my Raven Sport Tour, swapping out the 50T TA ring for a 42T TA ring I had in my spares box and leaving the 19T sprocket in place. This also allowed me to fit a Chainglider as I then had a 42x19 combination.

When I lowered the gearing on my Raven Tour I kept the 38T Surly chainring and changed the sprocket from 16T to 21T. I also had to change the Chainglider rear part.

One minor consideration is that for a given gear range a large sprocket/large chainring combination wears more slowly than a small sprocket/small chainring combination. That was the reason I originally chose 50x19 for my Raven Sport Tour. But a transmission that is partially protected by a Chainglider should last a lot longer than an unprotected transmission.
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Non-Thorn Related / Pluses and minuses for changing either a sprocket or chainring
« Last post by in4 on October 06, 2026, 06:17:56 AM »
I was thinking about changing my current set up to something that gave me a few lower ( hill climbing ) gears. That got me thinking about the pluses and minuses of changing either a sprocket or a chainring. Is it a simple practicality choice; its easier to change one or the other. Maybe its a cost thing or fitting a chainglider issue. Now that sprockets are easier to change thanks to circlips being used perhaps its almost a personal preference thing. I could of course be barking up the wrong tree here but am happy to be corrected and educated.
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Hi
Would you mind taking a look beneath the bottom bracket and sharing the letters and numbers you should find there. They give the actual size and maybe an LA ( indicating the UK frame builder) Photo might be easiest.
TIA
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Hi
Up for sale now on Ebay is a Thorn Raven Nomad (Mk 1) expedition touring bicycle bought brand new by my late father who did so about twenty years ago. The bike is in good condition, fully functional and in good working order. It comes from a smoke and pet-free home.

This is a high-specced bike featuring many high quality components and pitlocks, and thus the value is boosted due to that. The bike has been designed so that it can be divided/taken apart at the frame, having the capability to reduce the size of it so that it may fit inside a large strong holdall or case (Thorn sold a Samsonite-made hardcase perfect for air travel) - handy if you ever need to travel with it abroad or to distant locations. It is the S&S couplers that securely attach the two parts of the bike together via the top tube and down tube respectively.

The bike has been datatagged using datatag's security system to ward off thieves. Registered with them back in 2007 sometime after the bike was bought, I have the paperwork issued by them confirming ownership by my father and registration. This paperwork includes the application form necessary for the new owner to transfer registration, and it also has a section to be filled in by myself (the seller) which will confirm sale. Datatag uses special methods to imprint and conceal the identity code of the bike. These imprints can be read by the authorities who are well aware of datatag's security system.

The bike shows signs of some relatively minor marks here and there on the frame from normal use - see pics on ebay. This particular model of bike is quite rare now due to age and the fact that they aren't made anymore. A nice touch is the Thorn emblem on the headtube - this particular one which isn't so common on other Thorn bikes, and that which is rather special imo.

Collection from north London is possible, if not then dispatch will be via a specialist courier service that can deliver the entire bike door to door without the need for boxing. All UK destinations are covered, and delivery charge will depend on the whereabouts of the exact destination. This can be arranged after the sale is made.
Have a gander... link is below

Thorn Raven Nomad (Mk 1) tourer + S&S couplers: Size 562L - Suitable for 5'10" - 6'1"
*Thorn 969 double-butted steel tubing
*Reynolds 531 steel fork
*Rohloff 14-speed (internal hub gears)
*Brooks Conquest All Terrain leather saddle
*Zertz carbon seatpost
*Thorn carbon butterfly handlebar
*Thorn stem
*Thorn chainring (44T)
*Shimano Deore V brakes
*Shimano Deore crank (170mm)
*MKS quick-release pedals
*FSA headset & spacers
*Schmidts K179 Nabendynamo front hub (6volts 3watts)
*Rigida Tungsten Carbide 26" wheels
*Tubus front+back racks
*Cro-mo front rack
*Polaris map holder
*Bottle cage, mudguards, odometer etc
*Minoura accessories mount
*Panaracer Pasela tyres (rear is brand new)
*Pitlock front & rear axle

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/137812826822?_skw=thorn+nomad+raven&itmmeta=01M44NBK7GA0GWF39THXDG4W4W&hash=item201648dac6:g:nIsAAeSwSWNqwuRq&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDSRPKW1vT30wzE1wac89pHyCPI%2Feb0nMJAZHpQBa1weWJE95ATyFW9Peyl4ku8sDiw1kHrj4e9l%2B2wgc7Dw%2BJ6DUB%2BZBido1D8q6DNcZttOwXJX0kvhvMtZwsmJ2AI4d74ateV9qEoYJkRV%2FyU9t1Cc2Dn77W6%2FLAV041gig1Lq%2FtNSzjiMd7pfX%2F6nGaL388FyamTU6FuTFZ5ZL0XvGCG51GnRYxula4cfg5l2xAIkI3eAMNfMH6WTy%2FAb%2BFfN%2Fg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4a0rpWhaA
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