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What ratio do you have now and what ratios are you considering?

I wanted to lower my gearing and went from 38/16 to 38/17 which effectively added one extra lower gear and removed the very top ratio.  My Raven has the older screw on rear sprocket and as I am near SJS, Nick there swopped sprockets for me (a special tool is needed).  I was lucky that the eccentric BB was initially almost fully tight (even though the chain had little wear) and by going to the fully loose position I could keep the same chain in use.  Chainglider parts were not changed.

The change was definitely worthwhile.  The lowest gear has changed from 17” to 16”.    I don’t miss the loss of the very top ratio and I can cycle up my local steep hill a lot easier.

Having odd number teeth on the back also means the sprocket will wear evenly as narrow and wide links alternate position every revolution (the chainwheel is N/W so the chain always has the same orientation on that).
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Depends on several factors. The first thing is to decide what gear range you want.

Then you can usually get there by changing either the sprocket or the chainring, or maybe both.

If you want to fit a ChainGlider, that limits the options. There are only a few possibilities for compatible chainring size, Chainglider front parts are 38, 42, 44 and 48 IIRC. Same goes for sprockets, with the constraint that smallish sprockets need the special Rohloff compatible Chainglider rear part, which IIRC is different for threaded and splined sprockets. Large sprockets 19,21,22 are in practice compatible with the standard Chainglider rear part as used for Shimano Nexus 8 hubs. Another thing to consider is that Chainglider front parts aren't necessarily compatible with all the rear part options, IIRC the 48T front part won't work properly with the 19-22T rear part. Chaingliders also work best with thin chainrings, the Surly stainless steel chainrings work well for me and are reversible. But I have one bike fitted with a wide TA ring using  1/18" chain and a 1/8" sprocket, this works OK with a Chainglider but needed a "breaking in" period.

Changing the chainring can be economique if you have a stock of spare chainrings. I did this with my Raven Sport Tour, swapping out the 50T TA ring for a 42T TA ring I had in my spares box and leaving the 19T sprocket in place. This also allowed me to fit a Chainglider as I then had a 42x19 combination.

When I lowered the gearing on my Raven Tour I kept the 38T Surly chainring and changed the sprocket from 16T to 21T. I also had to change the Chainglider rear part.

One minor consideration is that for a given gear range a large sprocket/large chainring combination wears more slowly than a small sprocket/small chainring combination. That was the reason I originally chose 50x19 for my Raven Sport Tour. But a transmission that is partially protected by a Chainglider should last a lot longer than an unprotected transmission.
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I was thinking about changing my current set up to something that gave me a few lower ( hill climbing ) gears. That got me thinking about the pluses and minuses of changing either a sprocket or a chainring. Is it a simple practicality choice; its easier to change one or the other. Maybe its a cost thing or fitting a chainglider issue. Now that sprockets are easier to change thanks to circlips being used perhaps its almost a personal preference thing. I could of course be barking up the wrong tree here but am happy to be corrected and educated.
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Hi
Would you mind taking a look beneath the bottom bracket and sharing the letters and numbers you should find there. They give the actual size and maybe an LA ( indicating the UK frame builder) Photo might be easiest.
TIA
5
Hi
Up for sale now on Ebay is a Thorn Raven Nomad (Mk 1) expedition touring bicycle bought brand new by my late father who did so about twenty years ago. The bike is in good condition, fully functional and in good working order. It comes from a smoke and pet-free home.

This is a high-specced bike featuring many high quality components and pitlocks, and thus the value is boosted due to that. The bike has been designed so that it can be divided/taken apart at the frame, having the capability to reduce the size of it so that it may fit inside a large strong holdall or case (Thorn sold a Samsonite-made hardcase perfect for air travel) - handy if you ever need to travel with it abroad or to distant locations. It is the S&S couplers that securely attach the two parts of the bike together via the top tube and down tube respectively.

The bike has been datatagged using datatag's security system to ward off thieves. Registered with them back in 2007 sometime after the bike was bought, I have the paperwork issued by them confirming ownership by my father and registration. This paperwork includes the application form necessary for the new owner to transfer registration, and it also has a section to be filled in by myself (the seller) which will confirm sale. Datatag uses special methods to imprint and conceal the identity code of the bike. These imprints can be read by the authorities who are well aware of datatag's security system.

The bike shows signs of some relatively minor marks here and there on the frame from normal use - see pics on ebay. This particular model of bike is quite rare now due to age and the fact that they aren't made anymore. A nice touch is the Thorn emblem on the headtube - this particular one which isn't so common on other Thorn bikes, and that which is rather special imo.

Collection from north London is possible, if not then dispatch will be via a specialist courier service that can deliver the entire bike door to door without the need for boxing. All UK destinations are covered, and delivery charge will depend on the whereabouts of the exact destination. This can be arranged after the sale is made.
Have a gander... link is below

Thorn Raven Nomad (Mk 1) tourer + S&S couplers: Size 562L - Suitable for 5'10" - 6'1"
*Thorn 969 double-butted steel tubing
*Reynolds 531 steel fork
*Rohloff 14-speed (internal hub gears)
*Brooks Conquest All Terrain leather saddle
*Zertz carbon seatpost
*Thorn carbon butterfly handlebar
*Thorn stem
*Thorn chainring (44T)
*Shimano Deore V brakes
*Shimano Deore crank (170mm)
*MKS quick-release pedals
*FSA headset & spacers
*Schmidts K179 Nabendynamo front hub (6volts 3watts)
*Rigida Tungsten Carbide 26" wheels
*Tubus front+back racks
*Cro-mo front rack
*Polaris map holder
*Bottle cage, mudguards, odometer etc
*Minoura accessories mount
*Panaracer Pasela tyres (rear is brand new)
*Pitlock front & rear axle

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/137812826822?_skw=thorn+nomad+raven&itmmeta=01M44NBK7GA0GWF39THXDG4W4W&hash=item201648dac6:g:nIsAAeSwSWNqwuRq&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDSRPKW1vT30wzE1wac89pHyCPI%2Feb0nMJAZHpQBa1weWJE95ATyFW9Peyl4ku8sDiw1kHrj4e9l%2B2wgc7Dw%2BJ6DUB%2BZBido1D8q6DNcZttOwXJX0kvhvMtZwsmJ2AI4d74ateV9qEoYJkRV%2FyU9t1Cc2Dn77W6%2FLAV041gig1Lq%2FtNSzjiMd7pfX%2F6nGaL388FyamTU6FuTFZ5ZL0XvGCG51GnRYxula4cfg5l2xAIkI3eAMNfMH6WTy%2FAb%2BFfN%2Fg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4a0rpWhaA
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Reluctantly selling my Thorn Nomad Mk3 58L Rohloff, custom built by SJS Cycles in 2024.

This is a high-specification expedition/touring bike with 2,537.8 km on the clock — according to Garmin!. It was built specifically for me by Thorn and the original invoice total was £4,138.61.

I'm selling because recent marriage has curtailed my long-disance touring career  ;D

Specification

* Size 58L
* Colour Red Imron
* Rear wheel: Ryde Rival 650b 32h disc Rohloff 14spd CC Disc Hub, 17T sprocket (QR)
* Front wheel: Ryde Rival 650b 32h disc SON dynamo hub (thru axle) — (dynamo supplied by me and has done a further 7000 km)
* Chainring: Thorn 42T
* Brakes: Shimano Deore XT BR-M8100
* Crankset: Thorn 104/64 PCD Triple Crankset MK2 - Black - 170mm
* Handlebar: Surly Moloko 735mm handlebars with cork tape with cork flecks and gel backing and Ergon GC1 grips
* Brakes: Shimano CUES hydraulic 2-pot disc brakes with 180mm rotors
* Saddle: Brooks B17 black leather with rain cover
* Chain: KMC E1 Rohloff-compatible chain
* Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Almotion EVO 27.5 x 2.15
* Mudguards: SKS Chromoplastic (not fitted in photos)
* Lights: Sinewave beacon front light (supplied by me and has done a further 7000+ km) / SON rear light
* No pedals

As indicated above, the SON dynamo hub and front light were supplied by me rather than being new components. They had previously done around 7000 km.

Condition

The bike has covered a little over 2,500 km and is mechanically in perfect working order. However, I want to be completely upfront about the cosmetics.

There are a number of scratches and marks on the frame and forks from riding and from air transport. There is also a small dent in the downtube. I have had the dent assessed and have been quoted £60 to repair it, unpainted, by Argos Racing Cycles in Bristol, a company recommended by Thorn.

I've deliberately not had the dent repaired before selling the bike. I'd rather the buyer sees the bike exactly as it is rather than having a repair carried out immediately before sale. I'll provide clear photographs of all the scratches and the dent, so there will be no surprises for the buyer.

Size

58L, suitable for a taller rider. The bike was built for me at 186 cm / 6'1" tall.

The SJS build sheet records:

* Height: 1860mm
* Barefoot saddle-over-height: 850mm
* Arm length: 1885mm

Documentation

Original SJS Cycles invoice and build specification included.

Frame number: N580L23008

Fork number: 480623

The original invoice records the complete build and a total paid of £4,138.61.  The purchase of the dynamo hub and front light are not included in that price.

Location

Nottingham, UK

I'd prefer collection so that the buyer can inspect and ride the bike before committing to purchase, but will consider delivery at buyer's expense.

Price

£2,600 ono

I'm not looking for silly offers, but I'm happy to have a sensible discussion with someone who is genuinely interested.

I can provide plenty of photographs and answer any questions about the build, condition or sizing.

7
Bikes For Sale / Thorn Sherpa Wanted
« Last post by robbieonthenet on October 02, 2026, 12:14:16 PM »
Thorn Sherpa 969 wanted .
Living in Bournemouth but happy to travel to collect.
Message me if you have one for sale please.
Cheers
Robbie
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Luggage / Re: Nomad MK2 forks and Ortlieb QLS fork bag
« Last post by in4 on October 01, 2026, 02:43:11 AM »
I guess that unless an emergency situation arose any sort of ad hoc/ thought-fart solution should be considered very carefully. What's that thing about the law of unintended consequence? Owing to a very inconvenient  slow flat ( aren't they all!)  I had to transfer my loaded rear panniers on to my front rack for a sort of get me home solution. I tried riding with it for a very short distance but it was so unbalanced and unnerving I got off and walked the rest of the way.

PS Currently posting from Chiang Mai and wishing I had my Nomad with me. Next time!
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Luggage / Re: Nomad MK2 forks and Ortlieb QLS fork bag
« Last post by mickeg on September 24, 2026, 02:13:58 PM »
I'm almost loath to pass this along and in no way endorse it, but...

An increasingly popular method for attaching cargo cages to fork blades in the bikepacking world involves placing some light padding on the fork (i.e. a strip of old innertube) and then wrapping the cage, padding, and fork in a really thick layer of adhesive-backed tape(!).

I can imagine firsthand the carnage if a cage got loose and twisted between fork blade and spokes after once seeing a female uni student's shoulder bag wedge between fork and wheel.....

The gal that I knew that did something similar on her carbon fork, her fork was shaped much more aero, much longer fore and aft than side to side thickness, I doubt that what she added to her fork could have shifted as much as you describe.

But a nearly round fork, I certainly could see that as being a problem.

***
10
Luggage / Re: Nomad MK2 forks and Ortlieb QLS fork bag
« Last post by Danneaux on September 24, 2026, 05:49:41 AM »
I'm almost loath to pass this along and in no way endorse it, but...

An increasingly popular method for attaching cargo cages to fork blades in the bikepacking world involves placing some light padding on the fork (i.e. a strip of old innertube) and then wrapping the cage, padding, and fork in a really thick layer of adhesive-backed tape(!).

I can imagine firsthand the carnage if a cage got loose and twisted between fork blade and spokes after once seeing a female uni student's shoulder bag wedge between fork and wheel. In a surreal moment, she and the bike rotated around the suddenly stationary front wheel before her head hit the pavement. I was first responder on the scene and it sure wasn't pretty. Some related tape links...
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikepacking/comments/8ljezi/dont_have_fork_or_down_tube_cage_mounts_try_using/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWJ0mVgpvzM (starts at 3m 30s)
https://bikepacking.com/gear/bikepacking-hacks/
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikepacking/comments/11i83kl/securing_cargo_cages_around_the_fork_with_hose/

A variety of alternate suggestions are offered here...
https://bikepacking.com/index/add-cage-mounts-bike/

Best, Dan.
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