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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by mickeg on October 25, 2026, 07:40:34 PM »
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EDIT: George, I have run half-step and granny gearing on five of my bikes since 1977; my preferred choice for derailleur touring bikes! :)

You clearly beat me to it, I first did it in 2014.  I had a road triple with a 24T granny gear on both my Surly LHT and Thorn Sherpa.  I really did not need the highest gears, so removed the 52T and put on a 46T big ring on my LHT, for a 46/42/24 crankset. 

It did not work so well on my Pacific Coast trip, each time I had a change of grade it needed more than a half or one step sized shift.  But it worked great in Florida in 2017, almost all roads were flat as a billiards table.  With a slight change of windage I could easily do a half step shift.

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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.
« Last post by Danneaux on October 25, 2026, 06:34:00 PM »
Ian, I've given further thought to your question about how best to mount your CCL atop your rear rack. Here's what bubbled to the surface...

1) As I noted in an email to you, I've had good luck adding Ortlieb hooks and rails to the bottoms of friends' handlebar bags so they will effectively q/r lock into front racks or decaleurs. The trick is to line the bags first with Coroplast as George and I do, so the Ortlieb hardware has something to bite into and to stiffen the bag. Be sure to use the plastic-capped Ortlieb nuts if you add rails and hooks to the bottom of your CCL, as they create a smooth surface so vibration won't cause wear of the contents against the hardwear.

Unfortunately, I don't have photos of my conversions ready to hand, but you can get the general idea from other's efforts with HB bags shown in these two links...
https://theradavist.com/decaleur-hack
https://www.flickr.com/photos/88336152@N00/16567687779/
In this case, the rail-mounted hooks under your CCL would engage the rack crossbars. Three-four hooks and two rails would do the job for you, I think. It is worth noting the Ortlieb hardware creates a labyrinth seal when tightened, so you would have no fear of localized leaks.

2) You can also mount one of your panniers atop your rear rack, provided it has locking mounting hooks. I have done this with my Ortliebs both small (SportPacker) and large (BikePacker) and it works a treat; solid, reliable, and quick-release when you want so you can even de/remount the back in a moment to forage through it. See photo no. 1 below. It works best woth roll-top bags, but I've had no rain incursion with my drawstring-and-cap-top bags.

3) You really can fit a whole camping kit in your CCL suspended from the saddle's bag loops. If you need extra capacity or want to level-out the bag so your thighs don't strike it -- and if you have a rear rack -- it is pretty easy to place something you don't mind getting wet (i.e. tent or rain clothing in dry bags, possibly plastic/Crocs camp shoes) underneath the CCL. It all depends on the vertical gap between the bag loops and your rear rack.

See Photo nos. 2-3 of this setup on my gravel bike (since fitted with a sus-seatpost, it works the same). When it rains and I'm wearing my rain clothing, I just swap the tent (under the CCL rain flap) to the rack-top, replacing the blue clothing bag under the CCL. Unfortunately, this setup is not yet q/r...working on it!

For those who wonder if such a small touring kit is possible to fit in a CCL, you can view the contents in Photo no. 4.

Best, Dan.

EDIT: George, I have run half-step and granny gearing on five of my bikes since 1977; my preferred choice for derailleur touring bikes! :)
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by mickeg on October 25, 2026, 02:14:22 PM »
I really like that Centurion. 

That said, I have a strong preference for indexed shifters for the rear.  Front friction shifting, not a problem for me.  I think you are aware that I have half step plus granny shifting on my Lynskey and Sherpa.  I thought I was the last person on earth that used that, so I of course have to comment on that on the Centurion.

If you ever want to add a third bottle cage on the Centurion, you could put the pump under the top tube.  I did that with my Grand Prix.  I glued some inner tube rubber to the top of the pump handle so that only the rubber presses on the paint, so far no paint damage.  And use a Velcro strap near the front of the top tube to hold the pump in place.  Attached photo.  Disregard the foam pipe insulation on the top tube, if I have to lock my bike to a post I like to have something to prevent paint damage.

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Last photo shows a tensionable sling saddle I intend for a drasienne (balance bike with Fred Flintstone drive) project I'm doing. A couple years ago, I was able to paddle (not pedal) for 30 miles on a less ideal saddle for the purpose, now thinking I could do more with the sling...no leather treatment needed! ;D
See... https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draisienne

Best, Dan (...who loves bikes in all forms; saddles, more specifically)

Your saddle sling, good luck with that.  Or should I say, ... yabba dabba doooo.
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by Danneaux on October 24, 2026, 02:41:22 PM »
Quote
Yesbut...
!  :)

True enough, but I loved me that honey color! ;D The one in question is a custom job once offered by Rivendell Cycle Works back in the day, made with (good) chrome rails, large hammered rivets, and the extra-thick leather I prefer for sustained long-distance riding.

It darkened a little with (red) Proofide, but still stayed on the lighter side.

Photos show how much more robust and expedition-oriented my 2012 Nomad Mk2 is than a more traditional tourer like my 1980 Centurion ProTour.

Last photo shows a tensionable sling saddle I intend for a drasienne (balance bike with Fred Flintstone drive) project I'm doing. A couple years ago, I was able to paddle (not pedal) for 30 miles on a less ideal saddle for the purpose, now thinking I could do more with the sling...no leather treatment needed! ;D
See... https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draisienne

Best, Dan (...who loves bikes in all forms; saddles, more specifically)
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by Andre Jute on October 24, 2026, 07:24:17 AM »
I have found Sno-Seal to be a valuable adjunct for use on my black saddles. I have not used it on my one Honey Brown model as I don't want it to darken as much as I know it would with Sno-Seal.

Yesbut yesbut yesbut if you put some wax of whatever provenance on your Honey Brooks, she'll get a deeper tan with every application, and when you stop you'll have a custom brown saddle that nobody else has.
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Non-Thorn Related / Re: Jim Wilson, War Hero & Legendary Bike and Frame Builder
« Last post by Andre Jute on October 24, 2026, 07:07:42 AM »
There was once among the British working classes an equivalent to the American Dream. It wasn't about being rich, necessarily, as much as doing something right for the sake of doing it right, passionately. Imagine some chap with a small shop today sponsoring a rider in the Tour de France. It beggars belief.

Does anybody else look at that frame in his hand and consider the
wheelbase a bit short? Or were racing bikes that short c1950?

The photos in the version you found are better. Thanks, Dan.
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by Danneaux on October 24, 2026, 02:09:22 AM »
Quote
Americans have a similar leather wax with a good reputation from vintage times forward, the name of which now escapes me.

Andre, John, there is another option I have used to waterproof leather for 55 years: Sno-Seal.

The tin promises leather protection from rain, snow, salt, sun; the original beeswax waterproofing. Mile warmth helpt it absorb, excess is buffed off with a clean, soft cloth. Instructions say, "Beeswax waterproofing lubricates leather and protects against dryiomg and deterioriation far longer than greases, oils, and animal fats. Sno-Seal is a natural wax and, unlike other products, will never weaken, decay, or break down leather or stitchings and seams. Caution: Will somewhat darken leather; spot test if appearance is important". I have found Sno-Seal to be a valuable adjunct for use on my black saddles. I have not used it on my one Honey Brown model as I don't want it to darken as much as I know it would with Sno-Seal.

See...
https://atsko.com/product/sno-seal-wax-8-oz-jar/
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sno+seal&channelId=520&clpRedir=Y&plpRedirect=mhFallback

Available from Amazon Canada as well... https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=Sno-Seal&crid=F5Z4IT6ASXZH&sprefix=sno-sea%2Caps%2C363&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 I think it is too pricey due to the added tariffs and would not buy it on principle if I lived outside my borders.

I always treat my Brooks leather saddles first with Proofide (now white cream, I preferred the older red formula that smelled much stronger), then after some use, Sno-Seal for regular winter riding. I lay on a thin coat of Sno-Seal to guard against water drops in between my dismounts and slapping on the saddle cover (I don't ride on the cover per Brooks' caution, as Andre notes). I have found the Sno-Seal polishes out to a high gloss under my cycling shorts, then thins out and needs reapplication in time. It lasts longer in winter when I ride less often. I use it primarily on the Brooks B.17 fitted to my commuter Fixie. I don't use it in summer when I am likely to produce a lot more sweat and a "waterproofed" saddle has much less appeal.

Best, Dan.
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by Andre Jute on October 23, 2026, 11:43:16 PM »
Obenauf's, definitely. Widely recommended by American cyclists of the Sheldon Brown vintage, but not available this side of the Atlantic. Thanks, John.

Mike, on this forum some years ago, I expressed some mild disappointment that a Brooks waxed canvas seat cover wore rather fast when I sat upon it in the rain, and was told one isn't supposed to sit on it. I bought a plastic shower cap instead and sat on that when cycling in the rain.
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General Technical / Re: Brooks saddle
« Last post by John Saxby on October 23, 2026, 09:25:37 PM »
Andre, WRT your comment above, Americans have a similar leather wax with a good reputation from vintage times forward, the name of which now escapes me:

You may be thinking of Obenauf's (a company based in Idaho), which makes Leather Oil and a paste. They advertise their products for forestry workers and firefighters.  I used their products for leathers and boots when I was riding motorcycles.  I still have a couple of bottles of Leather Oil, which I've used on my Brooks B17 (now 15 years old) -- an annual end-of-season wipe with a Leather-Oily-rag seems to work a treat.  (Mind you, anytime I'm riding in wet weather, I use a cover for my saddle.)

'Cos of The Situation, I won't be buying any more any time soon, but Mike, you may find it useful.
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