Thanks Mickeg, interesting ..
Effectively, for me 36x16, the most important gear is the first, i can climb almost any hill..
But, my next Surly chainring have 35 teeths, i got a good price for it, I don’ t know if i have to keep my sprocket in 16 teeths or maybe 17 ! but i'm afraid to ́lost my first short gear..
For information, 36x16 transmission, above 33km/h you can no longer pedal, sometimes it’s frustrating
My cadence has varied over time. For the past few years, it usually is in the range of 66 when I am doing a multi-hour ride. If I am working to get up a hill in a low gear, I try to raise it up to 72. But if I have been in the saddle for most of the day already, it might dip down to 60.
I mentioned I use 36T/16T (ratio of 2.25) for touring. But for riding around near home with an unladen bike, I put a 44T chainring one the bike, add four more chain links for a ratio of 2.75. For riding near home, I never need a gear higher than 14 with that higher range of gears.
But for touring, I value that low gear, so I can live with the loss of the higher gear that I would otherwise use on shallow downhills.
When I built up my Nomad, I calculated that if I wanted to use the stock 16T sprocket, pedal at a cadence of 72, and have a speed of 3.5 miles per hour, that I wanted a 36T sprocket. I find that I can't get below 3 mph without oversteering to try to maintain stability, both directional and vertical. And a cadence of 72 feels smoother than anything slower. My point is I did some calculations to figure out that I wanted the 36T, I did not pick it at random.
And the 44T, that range of gears pretty much mirrors my range of gears that I think are ideal for riding near home on my other bikes.