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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Fitting Rohloff to old bike?
« Last post by PH on October 30, 2025, 05:52:56 PM »I'll have a go at those:
There are no cable guides along the left hand (non-drive side) chainstay.
You can get purpose made fittings that stick and zip tie on, but standard zip ties are fine. There's no indexing to worry about, but a smoother cable run gives a smoother shift.
From what I see I'd need a 'regular' 135mm hub with either the disc brake cap (for any future changes) or smooth cap.
If buying new there's no disadvantage to getting the disc hub, unless it's dearer. If buying secondhand, non disc models fetch a good bit less.
Also, would either the QR or threaded axle work - is there any preference?
I have both, they work the same in a vertical dropout, the nutted axle is better in a horizontal. Wheel in and out takes a bit more time with a nutted axle and of course you need a decent spanner. By default I'd choose QR, but it's no big deal.
I'm not sure about the internal or external gear mech. Which would work best on a bike which wasn't built with Rohloffs in mind?
Again both work fine, the internal is a bit crisper. You have to have the external with discs, you can have either with rim brakes. The external is easier to detach, it's also easier when you replace cables.
I expect I'd also need the 'standard' hub which uses a separate torque arm. Is this likely to cause any problems?
There's no issue. The torque arm is a bit ugly, you have to detach it to remove the wheel, that's simple enough. You don't have to line anything up when refitting the wheel, which is an advantage over some methods.
There's various chain tensioners, chainline is easy to adjust on the Rohloff one, it's well built and parts replaceable. I have one on my folder, it isn't as big a disadvantage as some think.
There are no cable guides along the left hand (non-drive side) chainstay.
You can get purpose made fittings that stick and zip tie on, but standard zip ties are fine. There's no indexing to worry about, but a smoother cable run gives a smoother shift.
From what I see I'd need a 'regular' 135mm hub with either the disc brake cap (for any future changes) or smooth cap.
If buying new there's no disadvantage to getting the disc hub, unless it's dearer. If buying secondhand, non disc models fetch a good bit less.
Also, would either the QR or threaded axle work - is there any preference?
I have both, they work the same in a vertical dropout, the nutted axle is better in a horizontal. Wheel in and out takes a bit more time with a nutted axle and of course you need a decent spanner. By default I'd choose QR, but it's no big deal.
I'm not sure about the internal or external gear mech. Which would work best on a bike which wasn't built with Rohloffs in mind?
Again both work fine, the internal is a bit crisper. You have to have the external with discs, you can have either with rim brakes. The external is easier to detach, it's also easier when you replace cables.
I expect I'd also need the 'standard' hub which uses a separate torque arm. Is this likely to cause any problems?
There's no issue. The torque arm is a bit ugly, you have to detach it to remove the wheel, that's simple enough. You don't have to line anything up when refitting the wheel, which is an advantage over some methods.
There's various chain tensioners, chainline is easy to adjust on the Rohloff one, it's well built and parts replaceable. I have one on my folder, it isn't as big a disadvantage as some think.

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