Hi,
The changing of the bearings can be done by yourself with the right tools and knowledge / advice.
The first thing to do is to remove the sprocket from the driver body with a good strong chain whip, and the removal tool from thorn/ rohloff.
Once the sprocket has been removed you can tip out the oil into a container through the bearing itself for re-use later if required. Then remove the torx screws from the hub cap, carfully remove the gear hub from the casing and place on a very clean cloth out of the way.
You may find that the small nylon (white) joints have also come out loose, don't worry keep to one side for later you should have 9..
Also be carefull with the paper gasket this is delicate, but can be reused if OK. Then with a Small plastic trim tool the oil lip seal can be removed but its advisable to use the rohloff lip seal tool to do this, the only difference there would be it has to be taken off with the hub still complete, as long as you can be carefull putting the lip seal in after its OK without the tool.
Once the oil seal is out of the way pay attention to the dimensional measurement in depth that the
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=5170 bearing has been inserted to as this is a (floating) bearing but must be put back in the (ball park) area for good fit. It still has an interference fit for integrity, but there is no backstop to push the bearing up to..
After taking note of the depth, I can think of many several ways to remove the bearing with out using a conventional / bespoke manufacturer specific tool, but with carefull intuition this can be achieved with a little imagination. Using the (Tapping out) method is always a last resort on my list , only due to the fact that this can cause marring of the soft aluminium casing and because this is a (floating) bearing it is essential that its mating surface is kept perfect.
I used some 16mm threaded rod with various sockets and end caps to remove my bearings and this acts as a pusher and a puller also so is great for installation.
Put a socket in the hub with a large flat washer (backstop) on it then a nut with the threaded rod coming out of the driver side long enough to go through a larger socket 50mm id or larger for the bearing to pull in to, then fit a (backstop) washer and another nut, then simply tighten the nut slowly to release the bearing into the socket and remove.
When fitting the new bearing, do not fit any retaining compound on the bearing just a little oil, you may now have to tap the bearing around the periphery to get it started, this MUST be square going in before using the puller/ pusher to reinsert the bearing. Turn the puller around so that the bigger socket is inside the hub this time and a socket of 46mm od approx is now on the outside which will pull the bearing back in taking note of the depth required for installation.
Once the bearing is back in and at its correct dimension the oil must be cleaned with solvent around where the lip seal will go, if you are pushing this in manually this can be done now, if using the rohloff tool this will have to be done when the hub is back in the casing, if doing now then using loctite seal put a smear around the OUTER of the lip seal and around the id of the hub case and carefully press in with a flat face until flush with the case and leave to dry for an hour.
After an hour wipe the inside of the lip seal with oil and proceed to fit the hub back in to place, this will require you to put a little grease on to the nylon joints to stop them from falling while inserting in to the hub, also taking care not to damage the paper gasket.
Then fit the torx screws using loctite blue 243 and being carefull not to over tighten, the oil can now be fed back through the open bearing face on the driver side, once in screw the sprocket back on, because you have taken the hub apart and because the driver bearing is floating this can cause misalignment of these to components which is rectified by whacking the non drive side as close to the hub center a few times to re align the two parts, DON'T WORRY this is normal procedure for this hub and no damage will be caused although the use of a soft faced rubber shock hammer is much preferred or a small piece of wood with a normal hammer to absorb the shock or prevent hammer rash etc..
This is to bring the axial line of the driver in to the axial line of the floating bearing, and the symptoms of a poor alignment are very poor freewheeling with the bike turned over..
The only other part that could cause the freeplay on the driver side is the driver bearings which sit inside the driver which in turn sit inside the main 47mm outer hub bearing, double check that the freeplay is in the outer bearing first.
Once this is complete tighten the sprocket fully and test the hub.
Regards
Dave.
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