Saddle related problems

[lewisnoble]

This topic seems to have gone a bit quiet . . .   I have been bunging on the Profide, and I have a feeling it is improving a bit.  When I bought the bike, I could not get hold of any Proofide, and it also seemed ludicrously expensive compared with leather creams etc available locally . . .  I see that some Brooks saddles have lace holes along the lower 'edge', which look a good idea, as the edges can be tensioned away from the thighs - anyone tried this??

Lewis from Sheffield

[Arnaud]

Been very busy lately, sofar I have only done a lousy 350km on the Brooks 17.No pain or numbness at all! It is obviously not broken in yet but I have this feeling that my bum and the saddle start communicating with each other. I'm not kidding, it is getting more pleasant down there. Fellow cyclist who have seen the thing usually comment " no way you get me on one of those, mate!".Next week end is the Great Perth Pike Ride ( probably a couple of thousand participants), so I decided to go all the way: my bike is now fitted with a Brooks D type saddle bag in matching honey colour. Help! I caught the dreaded British virus!
Thanks to you all for your wise advice, I'm convinced B17 and me will make good friends.

[davefife]

The B17 I fitted has now done 150  miles with me and i did some very slight raise the nose adjustment, over the "flat" initial setting, have yet to buy proofide but will do so this week as its recommended during the break in period.  Going off topic, the GPBR looks great - a 53KM circuit of the swan river, must hire a bike next time i am over, but would probably get stuffed with seafood down the front at Freeo and not make it back! good luck, thoughts with you and your B17 on the 26th.

[stutho]

Arnaud - How closely does the colours of your saddle and bag match?  - My 'honey' saddle is now MUCH Darker than it was when new. (Almost mahogany.)

[Arnaud]

The saddle is definitely getting darker in colour, but not evenly. The nose, who is not in contact with the body, remains the original honey colour. There are two dark patches on the sides at the rear of the saddle (near the rivets). I suspect this is where sweat comes in contact with the leather, on the edges of the padding of the cycling shorts.It is going to get worse: the last two days we had 41C and even at 7.00am it is already 30C ! I read somewhere that whilst breaking in a new leather saddle you shouldn't use padded shorts so it would take on the shape of your body. Does that make sense ?
The saddle bag doesn't seem to change colour.I am not concerned as long as it doesn't hurt !
Regarding the fine tuning of the saddle position, the seatpost that comes standard with the RST doesn't allow for very fine adjustment of the saddle tilt. Maybe I'm nitpicking, I'm very happy with the bike.

[stutho]

Arnaud -
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The saddle is definitely getting darker in colour, but not evenly
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That sounds about right. I was just concerned that your 'matching set wouldn't be matching for long.

Incidentally how do you find the saddle pack? - I might be asking Santa for one.

[geocycle]

I've had a B17 black for nearly a year and done about 3000 miles on it.  It has just started to show the first signs of becoming hammock-like but still nothing needs adjusting and I've not boaght the special spanner.  It has always been comfortable and is still rock hard.  Being a natural product there are a lot of differences between saddles and mine must have been from a hardy beast.  I also have accumulated most of the miles on this saddle (~2000) in short bursts of commuting which some have said slows the process as it doesn't 'warm to your shape'.  I have also noted that deformation has accelerated since putting it on my TRT from my old hybrid which had a suspension post.  All in all a great buy that comes into its own on the last 20 miles of long days on tour that I'd fully recommend.

[Arnaud]

The Brooks D type saddle bag is great. I managed to fit in all the tools plus the set of house keys and some money. Under the B17 saddle I keep a spare tube wrapped in the saddle cover, so I'm prepared in case of rain (2006 was one of the driest on record here in Western Australia). The B17 is getting better and better, no complaints there.

[piggling bland]

I've managed three years, two longish journeys and a handful of shorter tours on a Rolls.  It has never been great but neither is it bad, so I persevered.  It works well enough with Gore bib shorts, despite being polished to a high gloss.  Yes, it's slippery and never a hint of proofing.  But, now it has started squeaking.  My hips don't rock.  It seems to be contact with my thighs generating the noise.  Whatever, it's irritating, so I'm going to look out for one of these B17s you guys are praising so highly.  But that question about which model doesn't seem to have had a proper answer yet.  Is it worth getting one of the pre-broken in versions, or is pain part of the deal?

[Arnaud]

All these stories about pain...I think it is another urban myth.
I never experienced pain on the B17 (standard model), it just became nice and comfortable over time. In February I cycled around Tasmania, 1260km up and down, and the saddle was the last thing on my mind.
I thought they meant "pre aged" as in appearance, not "pre broken in" ?
The RST is a marvellous machine, no hassles whatsoever.

[spinacilight]

Another vote for the B17 from me. 300km in a day recently and no problems at all.

The racing boys laugh at mine but who cares?!!

[slowheels]

Here's a quick story. With my advancing age, the 'racer's posture' on the bike hasn't been succesful.
After recovering from some old injuries,
I'm back on 2 wheels, going at a moderate pace for as far as possible.  
The wonderful Brooks Pro has been retired, it wasn't cut out for sitting upright.
I've bought a Brooks Champion Flyer, and after messing about for a while, solved the problem.

1.  I  softened the leather, using a little Proofide & a small amount of Bick liquid conditioner
(an American product, meant for moisturizing and cleaning boots and saddles.
Surely a substitute could be found at a tack shop ).
This made the saddle TOO soft to ride, but overnight ithe saddle resumed its normal tension,
but was much softer. When I rode the saddle,
my weight made the leather ride on the upper rails of the sprung saddle.  

2. I put 6 lacing holes on each side, beneath the oval stamp, and added a boot lace.  
I laced the skirts loosely, tied it, and tucked the lace up inside the rails.
This prevented the skirts from flaring, and the seating surface from resting on the rails.

3.  A short ride proved I was still sitting on the upper rail,
but the saddle did not flare out. Using the Brooks wrench, I tightened the saddle a 1/4 turn,
and tested the seat. Three tries found the right tension and give a splendidly comfortable ride.  

4.  As the leather stretches, and I'm sure it will, I will use the lace and Brooks wrench to correct the tension
until the saddle stretches too much, and it may or may not ever happen.
But for now, I have a plush ride and can cover miles without the strong shoulders of my younger days.

NOTE: my handlebars are level with the saddle, and the nose of the Brooks is ever so slightly raised.
I think riding position, and anatomy ( leg length, arm length, as well as the naughty bits )  account for the exact attitude of the saddle.

[Yorkshireman]

Proofide is mainly a leather surface treatment and slight water repellent. Most of the oils/greases in the leather are removed during the curing and saddle manufacture process, that's why the leather is stiff/hard. Pressure from the 'sit bones' gradually deforms the shape of the saddle to suit your individual shape, if the leather is too soft the saddle will sag too much and take on a hammock shape (not a particularly good shape for comfort in the long run, plus when the leather is too soft it will tend to stretch and not offer the correct support as well as possibly tearing away from the rivets. Lacing the sides (cheeks) helps to maintain the correct profile as well as stopping any chafing.
Couple of views of my B67 now about 6 years in use.

[tartan socks]

In my opinion,you can't beat a Brooks B17 saddle.
A word of warning though,you must keep the tension by adjusting the nut and bolt.I failed to do this and after several months of creaking and a sagging saddle,the bolt snapped.

[Fred A-M]

I need to replace the Gel saddle supplied with my RST (split at approx 4,500 miles)

Does anyone have experience of a B17 Tintanium?  I read somewhere that tintanium has shock absorbing properties in addition to making the saddle a third lighter?  Or is the former the over-active imagination of some marketing bod?