Hi Steve!
First off, all congratulations for getting out in the wet -- always good to ride, and (no kidding!) the rain makes things "special"...not in the same way as snow transforms the landscape, but it does make a difference in how things look. A bit like how night riding differs from day.
At any rate, I've found several things that have really helped keep the bike cleaner when rain riding and minimize the time I spend After cleaning everything up. My strategy falls into two categories, prevention and mop-up.
Prevention
• Extended mudguards, particularly in the front, make a world of difference. The Nomad is the culmination of years edging in this direction, and I'm finding it does indeed help keep the bike, me, the whole lot cleaner if the water coming off the front of the 'guard is directed downward. It has also lost some velocity by then, and I no longer find myself riding directly into the spray exiting a mudguard that ends at the top of the wheel.
• Really long mudflaps attached to the mudguards. The most helpful one is at the front, though following riders will thank you for a long rear flap as well. At the front, I use a meter stick stubbed into the point where the tire meets the road; the rest of the length measures where the spray will hit the chainrings and my feet. I just size the mudflap till these critical parts are out of the "spray zone".
I've found a flap that is long enough to shield the chainrings completely from spray makes the most difference in maintenance. Any water-thrown grit from the front wheel lands right on the chain, where it is dragged back through the rear derailleur pulleys and cogset, spreading the mess around. Catch the problem at its source, and it makes a tremendous difference.
Mop-up: Dry and grit-removal
Once home from the ride, I typically "bounce" the wet bike 2-3cm gently on its tires to knock off much of the loose water. At that point, I use a soft *wet or damp* cloth to wipe down the frame (removes grit with less chance of scratching) followed by a soft-dry cloth. If the frame is glossy, I will sometimes spray a spritz of Lemon Pledge furniture polish on the dry rag for a quick rub-down. It seems to be compatible with the polymer-based "waxes" I normally use and has the effect of inhibiting rust in any little nicks or chips I might have picked up that ride.
I then do a quick wipe of the tires and rims using a damp cloth, being sure I floss any grit off the brake pad faces. This removes the aluminum oxide from the rims and pads as well as grit, and ensures I catch any little flints that might otherwise work their way through the tire and cause a flat.
I then roll out a plastic sheet to protect the garage floor from stains. Moving on to the drivetrain I wipe the chain down, then do a quick swipe of the rollers and side plates with an old toothbrush to remove grit. The cassette/freewheel gets a quick floss between the teeth using an old rag stretched tight and thin enough to fit between cogs. Same for the chainrings. I then use a spray lube on the chain and wipe off any excess.
Though it may sound complicated, it really doesn't take much time and I usually do it while still in my rain gear/riding clothes. I have the needed items waiting near the garage door in a plastic tub. The wipe-down rags can be laundered separately, but the cog-flossing, rim-wiping and chain-cleaning rags go in an ExploSafe container for holding till disposal so they won't spontaneously combust as oily rags can sometimes do even in cool weather. I'd guess all this adds about 7-8 minutes to my end-of-ride routine.
- - - - - - - -
My larger strategy for all-weather riding is to select and use components with shielded cartridge bearings. I used to use pipe cleaners soaked in oil or grease and wrapped around the outside of my hub dustcaps and BB cups before "sealed" bearings became more available, and those also helped. With direct water entry blunted, then it basically comes down to the pevention/quick-wipe strategy outlined above.
I've been known to employ a reduced version of this post-ride maintenance routine on wet tours.
Toward the end of the (wet) season, I do much more. Typically, I'l demount the chain and cassette and even remove the chainrings, put them in the solvent dash tank and let them sit, agitating or brushing as needed, then dry the parts with compressed air. I can see Andre wincing as I mention removing the original factory oil from the chain, but I've never had luck with it lasting much more than 250mi/400km on an open derailleur drivetrain in all weather. For my derailleur bikes, after the initial lube has failed me, I switch to a regular regimen of chain oiling and get about 2,500-3,000mi/4,000-4,800km out of them, changing before they can damage the drivetrain teeth. All my half-step drivetrains are setup so my most-used gear combinations run with little if any chain deflection, and that helps. It surely does with the Rohloff. A chain case (hello, Hebie? Where is my 36T Chainglider?) would help most of all.
Hope this helps, Steve. Mine is just one of many strategies for post-ride cleanup, and lots of people do fine simply riding with no cleanup at all!
Best,
Dan. (...who thinks a little Neil Young makes any routine that much more pleasant)
