My New Raven Tour

[stutho]

RE Brake Blocks and rim ware

You might like to try Koolstop 'Salmon' pads they are excellent - very little rim ware and really stop a bike quick.

[geocycle]

Cheers stutho, having got the basic cartridge holders, some quality pads will soon be needed.

[lewisnoble]

I note from the Brake section of this Forum that Koolstop pads have been mentioned before - and according to their website they do pads for ceramic rims.  For XTR brakes as well, I wonder?? Has anyone any idea where to get them??

Thanks.

Lewis

[julk]

Lewis,
try this link
www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4786

[lewisnoble]

Thanks julk, looks worth a try.

[PH]

quote:Originally posted by geocycle

Well guys my raven tour has just reached its 100 day no-return birthday.  Not that there was ever any chance it would be going back!  Done 900 miles and the bike's been great.  Its been on road, off road, shopping, commuting, touring, to conferences, on trains....  So no regrets but here are a few thoughts:

Pluses: rohloff even better than expected, handling and ride quality ditto, ergon grips, comfort bars (was v sceptical but can't fault them)
Neutral: in-board bar ends (can't see me using them much as they give limited control), the Blackburn mtn rack (might be a bit flimsy and doesn't quite fit my karrimor bags very well)
Negatives: panaracer tyres (let me down), shimano brake blocks (have damaged the rims)

Glad it's working out for you and some interesting thoughts.
I dislike Shimano pads as well, though I don't think the damage they do to the rims is not as bad as it looks.  I just think there are better ones.
I think you were unlucky with he tyres.  The 700c version (with the same sidewall) is a favorite with many Audax mile eaters, because it's so long lasting.  I used my summer Hi Roads till the tread had gone and my winter TGs have done 4,000 miles plus over the winters.

[stutho]

Lewis

I have got ceramic rims (Mavic 717) and I have tried both the Green and the Salmon Koolstop pads (with Avid Ultimate callipers).  Conclusions are that the will both squeal if not set up very carefully however the green are a little quieter. The greens last a little longer but the salmon stop a little better.  I currently use green on the rear and salmon on the front.  I have also added a brake booster on the front which has got rid of the noise almost completely.

stutho

[geocycle]

'I dislike Shimano pads as well, though I don't think the damage they do to the rims is not as bad as it looks. I just think there are better ones. I think you were unlucky with he tyres. The 700c version (with the same sidewall) is a favorite with many Audax mile eaters, because it's so long lasting. I used my summer Hi Roads till the tread had gone and my winter TGs have done 4,000 miles plus over the winters.' From PH

I agree with you regarding the Panaracers. Sidewall punctures are rare and I am sure it was just coincidence that it happened so soon to me but the sidewall is thin relative to other tyres, which is why they are lighter.   There are too many good reviews (like yours) for my experience to be typical and they gave a very nice ride, but once bitten, twice shy.  

The lumps of Al stripped from the rims by the brake blocks was a more worrying problem.  The rims were definitely scratched quite deeply in places, (mainly where the Al nodules that became embedded in the blocks cut in to the rims again).  Hopefully I've solved the problem early enough before it significantly weakens the rims.  I'll have a look for koolstop cartridges as folks above recommend.

No surprise that the RT was touring bike of the year, it would probably also have won the best allrounder if there was such a category.

[stutho]

Just to add to my last email - the Salmon pads are quiet on normal rims - they only squeal on ceramic.

[PH]

quote:Originally posted by geocycle


The lumps of Al stripped from the rims by the brake blocks was a more worrying problem.  The rims were definitely scratched quite deeply in places, (mainly where the Al nodules that became embedded in the blocks cut in to the rims again).  Hopefully I've solved the problem early enough before it significantly weakens the rims.  I'll have a look for koolstop cartridges as folks above recommend.

Similar happened to me with my first bike with V brakes, the LBS who sold me it said it was normal and would happen with any blocks and part of my maintenance routine should include picking the bits out of the blocks!  Although this extra chore was a pain and I was worried by the noise and look of the rims, they lasted as long as any others I’ve had.  All a bit irrelevant as there are other pads that don’t collect bits of aluminium and offer better braking.  Koolstop Salmon are my favorite, though hard to find, I’m presently using BBB triple compound which are very nearly as good, were cheaper and seem to be lasting longer.

[stutho]

PH Chain Reaction have currently got all flavours including salmon at £5 inc. p&p get them while you can!!!    (Credit to julk for finding them - I just bought 3 sets)

[goosander]

Thanks for the tip off, I've just bagged myself a couple of sets too.

[PH]

quote:Originally posted by stutho

PH Chain Reaction have currently got all flavours including salmon at £5 inc. p&p get them while you can!!!    (Credit to julk for finding them - I just bought 3 sets)

My thanks as well, I've stocked up with a couple of sets.
I'll probably stick with the BBBs for the V brakes on the Raven, but need the thiner pads for my bike with canti brakes.

[lewisnoble]

Stutho, my Koolstop pads have now arrived, and the packet seems to imply that they should be installed with none of the usual toe-in . . .  what is your practice??

Lewis

[stutho]

RE: the plow tip  - one of Kool-Stops not so clever inventions!  The idea is that the raised rear tip will automatically sets the tow in. It doesn’t work very well (for me at least).

If you are using cartridge pad holders I would start by just trying the new pads without repositioning.

Some people file / sand off the tip before fitting Kool-Stops and then toe in as normal.  I have try this in the past (I have also fitted the pad without sanding).  I don’t think there is any right answer both ways can be made to work.  However the good new is that once you have got the pad set up right (and it does need some form of toe in) it is probably the best brake pad you can buy.

PH What are your thoughts?