(I mean, we all know Dan has two of each bike, one for use, one standing perfectly polished under a dust sheet ready to be photographed!)
I...have an air compressor, and am not afraid to use it! Does wonders to blow off gravel dust before a quick post-ride wipedown.
The hole is for a previous rack, by SL, which had a fitting to stabilise the mudguard further.
Now, Andre...that hole needs filling. Annnnnd, what better to fill it with than a "proper" light-mount mudguard bracket. If you take a look at my attached photo below, you'll see a fine example in stainless, offered by Tubus for just that purpose. It fits to the 50mm light mounts on Tubus racks (and tucks *very* nicely behind a Toplight Line Plus on same) and extends downward to the mudguard. It is adjustable vertically, but if it fails to reach completely, a small spacer will do the trick. Just as Tubus say, it pretty much completely eliminates all need for the rearmost mudguard stays and makes the mudguard nicely solid and rattle-free...and plugs existing holes, too!
I sometimes use nylon PCB chassis-mount plugs to undrill holes in mudguards. They are nearly invisible. I also sometimes use a varied hole punch to cut sample "donut holes" out of old mudguards to fill holes in newer ones. A dab of beta-cyanoacrylate gel works very nicely on SKS mudguards, and remains not-quite brittle, so it doesn't restrain the blade's natural flexibility.
Justasec'...Andre, I just checked, and that Tubus mudguard bracket will work with *any* taillight with 50mm mount spacing. Just bend the lower tab as needed and use a spacer as required, and you're set. It would look real nice on your Cosmo.
Jags, you asked...
question for you and Dan looking at the post Dan put up on the light pattern of the cateye headlight ,how much better is the son dynamo and headlight compaired to that cateye light.
Boy, that's a tough one, 'cos so much of how well the beam shows in the photograph depends on the exposure and photographic technque. I suspect it won't be quite that bright in reality, and certainly not on a wet road (wet roads give miserable results for nearly any lights, as the wet surface scatters the beam; in my experience bike lights really show to best advantage on dry, crushed granite gravel).
Even so, jags...in looking at CatEye's photo, I think your new battery light will give a very good account of itself compared to my B&M IQ Cyo R with Nearfield lighting (powered by the SON28 dynohub). I think the beam on yours is not as "square" on the pavement, perhaps, but it also seems to avoid the horrible "hot spot" B&M included as an "undocumented feature" (bug) on mine. I had so hoped for the same beam pattern as my Dutch friend had on his B&M IQ Fly back in 2008 as we rode at night through the Netherlands' very dark "Green Heart". Now, *that* was a light...it just laid down a smooth, unbroken, even white carpet of light I've not seen before or since on a dyno light. Unfortunately, Andre and I both got caught out when B&M redesigned the IQ Cyo Rs and it is that hot spot which utterly ruins the otherwise smooth pattern of light compared to past models.
Andre...are you going for the Luxos when it comes out? I'm mightily tempted, but may be a gentleman and let you go first. Purely to see if a man of some discernment finds it acceptable. I'm looking for tests, but it is still too early. It is plenty spendy, and that remote switch/USB port fills me with dread and suspicion wrt long term durbility. It just has the "look" of trouble, but I have yet to see one in person, and B&M do a fine job in mos cases, so I'm sure they will have it well-sorted in production models. I'malso a bit concerned to read they have eschewed supercaps in favor of a battery to smooth battery output and prevent fallback mode on phones and such being charged by it.
All the best,
Dan.