Nomad disk brake

[KDean]

I've noticed the one disk pad pushed the brake disk towards the opposite pad bending the disk slightly . I thought both pads moved ? Its a new bike so will both pads move equally once worn in ?

[mickeg]

Depends on brand and model of brake unit.

TRP brakes (I think all models) move both pads in and out.

I think all others only have one pad that moves, the other pad is fixed.

[PH]

What mickeg said.
Assuming mechanical disc, if you have a TRP brakes and only one side is moving there's something wrong with it, or the set up, if you have any other make then only one side is supposed to move.
TRP make a big thing about having both pads move, here's an explanation (From a manufacturer of a single sided brake) why what seems like an obvious improvement has it's drawbacks. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9u514p1s50

[mickeg]

I was thinking cable operated brakes in my previous answer.

[KDean]

Mine are TRP Spyke . You also have to take the wheel off to change the pads , Unlike my Ribble  , I just hope the pads last longer than 3 days as they did on my Ribble while doing LEJOG .

[JohnR]

Mine are TRP Spyke . You also have to take the wheel off to change the pads , Unlike my Ribble  , I just hope the pads last longer than 3 days as they did on my Ribble while doing LEJOG .

Have you tried semi-metallic pads? They can be a bit noisy but wear more slowly.

[mickeg]

Are you saying that only one pad on your TRP brake unit moves when you actuate the brake?  Both should move in and out.

I have TRP Spyre on my Lynskey.  I think it is almost identical to the Spike except for cable pull difference, from drop bar or flat bar levers.

Pads last a LONG time.  But I do not ride in mud. 

If I recall correctly it came with semi-metalic pads.  I tried to run in the pads and rotor as described in the instructions, that improved them a bit but I was still unhappy with the braking performance.  I put some cheap resin pads on that grip much better but have a shorter life.  But I found that the resin pads can overheat and fade if you have a really tall steep hill that you are going down, I would expect better fade resistance from the semi-metalic pads.

[KDean]

Thanks for all the replies .I don't understand the design where you have to take the wheel off to remove the pads , every time you get squeaking it'll be a pain in the bum just to decontaminate them .

[JohnR]

Thanks for all the replies .I don't understand the design where you have to take the wheel off to remove the pads , every time you get squeaking it'll be a pain in the bum just to decontaminate them .

I think the noise from semi metallic pads is a winter problem - they tend to oxidise a little in damp conditions between rides - and not contamination from oil or grease which reduces the effectiveness. Semi-metallic is probably more appropriate for the longer summer rides. Pad maintenance should be fairly infrequent. I had only adjusted, but not otherwise touched, the original pads on my Mercury (TRP Spyke brakes) prior to changing the pads at nearly 4,000 miles. I don't know, without rummaging in my garage, what material they were. There's useful info at https://trpcycling.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-trp-brake-pads-and-rotors/.

[PH]

Mine are TRP Spyke . You also have to take the wheel off to change the pads

Something definitely wrong if only one pad is moving, I'd remove and clean and see how it operates off the bike.  I'm not a fan of these brakes, the working parts have been made too small in order to have both pads move.  I stripped and serviced one once, and that'll be the only once! The bearings are tiny and not well protected, that they work well for some people is more a surprise than that they don't for others.
Squealing - I use Discobrakes Kevlar pads (A type of resin) no breaking in period, better bite point, no squealing, never had a reason to remove them till worn out...  The downside is they wear quicker than sintered pads, but no excessively quick like some resin pads, I can live with that.

[mickeg]

Thanks for all the replies .I don't understand the design where you have to take the wheel off to remove the pads , every time you get squeaking it'll be a pain in the bum just to decontaminate them .

Mine only squeak if it is very very humid or wet out.  Dry, no squeak.

You mention decontaminate them.  Not sure how you accomplish that.

You are not supposed to get any grease or oils on the rotor or pad.  The instructions that I have seen suggest not even handling rotors with your hands due to skin oils.  I have been careful to keeping my hands off of my rotor once installed.  Prior to using the new rotor but after I put it on the hub, I cleaned it off with rubbing alcohol before I used it.  My only disc brake is on one of my derailleur bikes, thus not exposed to Rohloff oils.

If you bought the bike with the brake installed, perhaps you do not have the instructions for the brake.
https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/file/SPYRE_Final_053113%281%29.pdf