EBB same position for life

[ourclarioncall]

Let’s say I buy a nomad 2 and it’s all set up perfect from Thorn

Is it possible that I can choose to leave the EBB where it is forever?

For a no fuss no faff philosophy, I would be happy just to put on a new chain when needed rather than mess about with retighening .

It’s probably easy enough to do , well I’ve read enough about folks experiences, and sometimes problems

It seems the nomad 3 EBB is a better system and it’s little things like that that would sway me to go with a nomad 3

[PH]

Only if you bought a lot of chains.  But why? Taking the slack out with an EBB of either design is no more hassle than replacing the chain. I prefer the current type of EBB, but it isn't a deciding factor, they both work fine, the only real difference is the need to avoid micro adjustments with the set screw type, but there's really no need to be making such fine adjustment anyway.

[leftpoole]

Let’s say I buy a nomad 2 and it’s all set up perfect from Thorn

Is it possible that I can choose to leave the EBB where it is forever?

For a no fuss no faff philosophy, I would be happy just to put on a new chain when needed rather than mess about with retighening .

It’s probably easy enough to do , well I’ve read enough about folks experiences, and sometimes problems

It seems the nomad 3 EBB is a better system and it’s little things like that that would sway me to go with a nomad 3

As far as I can surmise, you would need to adjust the EBB simply to change a chain anyhow?
I think this question should have been posted tomorrow- April 1st 

[ourclarioncall]

I lack the knowledge and experience but here’s what I think I’ve picked up from reading comments and what I like the sound of for a no fuss no faff life

Put on a chain with the factory lube, don’t add anything to it. Put on a chainglider , this should keep it well protected,maybe  not completely but a high percentage. The chain should last on the factory line without having to do anything to it.

The chain doesn’t need to be tight, in fact rohloff prefer a slacker chain and perform just as well or better.

Use the chain until it starts falling off the sprocket/chainring, then that’s the time to buy a new chain

You might as well just put on a new sprocket along with the new chain and might also put on a new chain ring or flip it? (I’m guessing this wears the other side of the teeth)

Feel free to correct me where I’ve misunderstood or picked things up wrong 😑 🙃

Smiling at leftoooles April 1st comment 😁

* couple of thoughts in my mind are

1.Will the chain start banging/scraping  around inside the gainglider once it’s gets slack/loose ?

2.How long will I get out of 1 chain/sprocket /chainring before having to renew all 3 with my no fuss philosophy?

3. Is taking off the sprocket hard? Does it in any way compromise the integrity of the rohloff? In other words, would it be better to just change the chain and leave the sprocket until it completely wears out?

4. What is chain flipping ? Is it turning it inside out so you are wearing fresh parts of the chain that haven’t been touched ? Link flipping the chainring ?

5. Would I really need to make an adjustment to a nomad 3 EBB if I’m just putting on a new chain ? As wouldn’t it be much tighter than the old one ? Why would you need to mess with it ?

6. Does replacing or flipping the chain /the sprocket /or the chainring require adjusting the EBB in any way ?

 Thanks 😊

[UKTony]

Let’s say I buy a nomad 2 and it’s all set up perfect from Thorn

Is it possible that I can choose to leave the EBB where it is forever?

For a no fuss no faff philosophy, I would be happy just to put on a new chain when needed rather than mess about with retighening .

It’s probably easy enough to do , well I’ve read enough about folks experiences, and sometimes problems

It seems the nomad 3 EBB is a better system and it’s little things like that that would sway me to go with a nomad 3

The Nomad Mk 2 is superseded so if buying new you might be limited by the frame sizes that Thorns still have in stock. I doubt they’ll be replenishing sizes that are out of stock but you can check with them.  If you’re lucky and they do have your size frame then the Rohloff hub should come fitted with the splined sprocket carrier. This upgrade makes it much easier, in fact a delight compared with the previous screw-on system, to remove the sprocket in order to replace or reverse it.

If you’re thinking of trying to buy a Mk 2 second hand then it might be worth knowing that from May 2016 (I think it was) Thorns Rohloff equipped bikes were fitted  with hubs that had the splined sprocket carrier upgrade. However, You could wait a long time to find a second hand one that meets your requirements. The splined sprocket carrier is retro fittable to earlier hubs so if you did find an earlier Mk2 Nomad to your liking this upgrade could be done quite easily.

What I think I’m saying is that you might have no choice except to go for the Mk3

[ourclarioncall]

Thanks for the info .

Yeah, I’ve been looking at the leftover nomad 2’s for a while and think the sizes available might be too small or too large.

I am leaning towards the nomad 3. I like the look of the EBB more, and also the paint sounds like it will be more rust proof over time maybe ? With the ED coating .

Only thing is I don’t really like the colours . Or the logos. Maybe they can do a custom black for me? But if the bikes are all mass painted , would a custom paint job be as good ? Will get the same quality ? Hmm

So does the nomad 3 have splined sprocket thingy?

[UKTony]

So does the nomad 3 have splined sprocket thingy?

Yes. This is a quote from Page 49 of Thorns current Touring Bike Bible

“Orders for ROHLOFF EQUIPPED bikes, which were taken after MAYDAY 2016, all have the new Rohloff splined sprockets - these are really easy to change.
The new splined sprocket carriers are retro–compatible and will fit every Rohloff hub ever made”.

[PH]

Use the chain until it starts falling off the sprocket/chainring, then that’s the time to buy a new chain

It works, except I think you're underestimating the mileage you'll get before the chain is too lose.  I've needed to adjust chains in the first 1,000 miles, then sometimes not for another 3,000. 
But you haven't answered the question why you'd want to, adjusting the chain with an EBB is simpler than replacing one.  Plus it's not the sort of job you would suddenly need to do, so you can choose the time, then it takes a couple of minutes.  I wouldn't know if a chainguilder complicates it, but waiting till the chain is falling off, means you have less choice in when to sort it out.

I ran a single speed bike without anything to tension the chain, worked out the magic gear with a half link included then removed that when the chain became slack, I did that for four years, though it was a pancake flat 4 mile commute.  It wasn't difficult, I dropped the chain a couple of times, otherwise it was fine, but never ideal I wouldn't have chosen it.

[ourclarioncall]

PH

sorry mate, I remembered that I had not actually answered your question and intended to get to it later.

It’s probably a mix of fear and ignorance and my no fuss personality . I have little experience with bikes and bike maintenance so a lot of it could be in my head. Just don’t fancy being in the middle of Africa and start having problems with my nomad 2 EBB after I attempt  to adjust it for the first time !

I want to be prepared before I even get the bike to know in advance what I’m going to do and when. So would like to have a plan for maintenance, so I can can make everything as simple and fuss free as possible. I don’t care if it means it costs a bit more over the long term. I do try to be wise and sensible with money/value for money , but when it comes the bike it’s for fun and pleasure, I want a bike that just works and that I don’t have to mess about with (tooo much ), some self maintenance I don’t mind)

So In answer to your question, everything I’ve read on nomad 2 EBB maintenance doesn’t really fit into my goals, as I’ve read of many people complaining of issues. I think these issues can be overcome with simply advice like not over tightening the bolts etc, but it’s just an added stress in the back of my mind. I know I could probably get over this by owning  and using  one and realising “yeah, the guys on the forum were right, it’s not that big a deal” but at the moment I’d rather go with my gut

[ourclarioncall]

Cheers UKTony

Good to know

[PH]

OK, it'll be your bike to do with as you please, but I think you're overthinking this one.
The older type with the setscrews was misunderstood by some, they adjusted it too often and instead of the screws making separate indents they joined together to form a grove, or the screw would fall into the adjacent indent, the answer is simply not to adjust it more than necessary.
The current clamp type doesn't care how often you adjust it, there are no indents, you slacken off two bolts, insert the supplied pin spanner and rotate it, then re-tighten the bolts.   That's it, I absolutely guarantee I can do that quicker than you can change a chain. (Though I'm not accounting for the chainguilder with either job)
Both types can seize, like many other bike parts, a good coating of something once in a while and it's unlikely, if it does happen the clamp type is easier to free.

[ourclarioncall]

ha, I laughed out loud there, yeah overthinking is my middle name 😁 sometimes to my benefit , other times to my paralysis

Part of my issue is ive been in a very bad financial situation for almost ten years, now some money comes along and I’ve got the opportunity to buy my dream bike which I never thought I would , so I want to get it right first time,(  as I’m not sure il get the opportunity to do this again) do my homework throughly and buy the right bike with all the right choices . I suppose I always have Thorns return policy to lean on.

[steve216c]

If you are not sure how to adjust chain, get your local bike shop to do it. I bet the cost to adjust are lower than buying a new chain at very frequent intervals.

The nice thing about Rohloff gears is that they are low maintenance compared to constant tweaking of derailleur gears. Most jobs are well documented on YouTube either by Rohloff or by enthusiasts. I have learned a lot via helpful suggestions from this forum and following YouTube tutorials, and although I have had to learn a few new skills, it is satisfying to self educate and self empower yourself and get to know your bike more intimately in doing so.

[ourclarioncall]

What is the order of wear ? Or In other words , what will wear out first before it needs replaced between the chain, sprocket and chainring ?

How many miles/km will you get out of each of these? Impossible question to answer probably but just a ball park figure is fine . Like “ 5 chains for every side of a sprocket , so 10 chains per sprocket “

It maybe doesn’t work like that but just trying to keep it simple for my brain to grasp

[ourclarioncall]

Thanks Steve

I think one of my main concerns is being caught out with bike problems if I’m in a remote country and no access to bike shops etc. Or quite far away from the nearest one

Yeah, I should really learn

I had the idea of buying all the parts for a new nomad and paying a bike shop the teach my how to build or co-build (or at least watch the process ) it so I can be more intamitely familiar with how it all works