About my Ryde Andra 40 rim...

[Danneaux]

The Andra 30 rim is too narrow for larges tires, so the flanges tires wears more quickly ..

Yikes!

That looks similar to damage caused by a brake pad rubbing the sidewall.

I had to make a cantilever pad adjustment this morning when I switched from 1.5in road slicks to 2.0in Duremes on my touring tandem. The wider tires brought the sidewalls into light contact with the pads while the bike was on the workstand. Something to keep in mind regardless of rim width.

All the best, and looking forward to your ride and user reports with these rims, Julien.

Dan.

[jul]

I've seen this picture on this website
http://www.frankrevelo.com/hiking/biking_nomad2012.htm

Thank you for your encouragement !   

I will certainly make a return as regards this rim ..

[martinf]

Andra 40 I only build for electric bikes, its overkill, heavier and wider, stick with the 30's or the eyeletted sputnik rim.
D

Compared to Andra 30, the Andra 40 is only slightly heavier, so little weight penalty.

For an expedition bike I reckon it would be worth the extra 15g per wheel to have a wider rim that I believe is more suitable for wide tyres (50mm and wider), especially when running them at fairly low pressures. 

Not got Andra 40's, my Raven Tour came with CSS Andra 30's, so I probably won't need new rims on that for a long time.

My opinion on rim width is based on experience in the 1980's with 650B 42-44 mm tyres on Mavic 3 (22 mm width) and Mavic 4 (26 mm) rims , I preferred the Mavic 4.

[jul]

Hi ! 

I just laced my front rim some days ago, with my new Son 28 dynohub and because i don't have the equipment for the tensioning, i have contacted a builder.

I recovered my new front wheel from the builder today. I doubt about his correct tension..
When i compare with my initial front wheel built from sjscycle 3 years ago (Ryde Grizzly with shimano deore), the tension is different between them (see photos)

My new front wheel is less tense as you can see




I'm curious what you think !? thanks

[rualexander]

You can't tell if the tension is different from the deflection readings on your gauge, unless the spokes on both wheels are the same. You need to check the gauge readings against the Park Tool conversion chart. http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1

[jul]

My tension actually on my new wheel is around 16/17 ( Park Tool Value), so if i understand the Park Tool conversion chart it means around 65 to 70 Kfg (for a spoke of 1.8 mm)



On my other wheel from sjscycle, the tension is around 138 Kfg (24 value Park Tool)

There is a big difference between them, arff   

I have contacted my rim's seller, and the tension should be between 112 to 122 Kfg (1100 to 1200N) so (22 to 23 Park Tool value)

Next time, i put myself in agreement with my builder ..

[jul]

Hi !

Now it is about my rear wheel i have a doubt .. when i see my previous wheel (Grizzly) it was laced as the warning rohloff method (see photo)



For information my previous wheel was built by Sjscycle around 2013.

After questioning SJS, it concern only the 24" wheel or less

[Danneaux]

Hi Julien!

The rear wheel on my 2012 Nomad was laced the same way by SJS Cycles/Thorn as yours. I was concerned about it when I worked with Thorn's designer Andy Blance to spec the bike, so I asked. He kindly explained <quote>...

That just leaves the question of the way we lace the hubs.

We lace the pulling spokes from the outside…we are convinced that this minimises the chance of the spokes causing flange failure. I am an old school wheel builder and it was difficult for me to accept this counter-intuitive solution. Note we also cross the spokes over the hub screws…this further reduces the chance of flange failure.

This is the opposite of my preferred practice in the >200 wheels I've built. However, I decided if Thorn found this true in their experience over years of selling many bikes and they back the product, then it would be logical to accept it. It should reassure you to know I have had no problems whatsoever with my Nomad's wheels over four years of use. 

It would be best to duplicate this pattern if you relace the wheel, because the spokes (where the elbow bends meet the flanges) emboss the hub shell when fully tensioned. Lacing the wheel a different way would (could) stress the flanges at new points, possibly leading to failure.

All the best,

Dan.

[jul]

Thanks Dan.

It's right, my previous spokes have marked all my rohloff flanges's holes





However, i don't know if i will can position my new spokes with the embossment flanges's holes, because between my previous Grizzly rim and my new Andra 40 rim the first hole after the valve hole didn't begin by the same side.
On my Andra 40 the fisrt hole after the valve hole begin to the right, and on my previous rim (Grizzly) the first hole begin to the left .. 

[mickeg]

...
However, i don't know if i will can position my new spokes with the embossment flanges's holes, because between my previous Grizzly rim and my new Andra 40 rim the first hole after the valve hole didn't begin by the same side.
On my Andra 40 the fisrt hole after the valve hole begin to the right, and on my previous rim (Grizzly) the first hole begin to the left .. 

I was going to say if it was me I would lace them up the way they were because the metal in the flanges has deformed slightly to the spoke and it is best to leave it that way.  that way you would not deform the metal again a different way.  But, with your different rim pattern, you might want to chat with someone at SJS.  I suspect you will be lacing up one side differently than previously, but SJS may suggest which side would be best for that.

[Danneaux]

...you might want to chat with someone at SJS...

Mickeg is spot-on with his suggestion; it would be Very Wise to check with THorn/SJS Cycles before relacing your hubs to rims that have "opposite" drilling.

All the best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

If there is any chance that lacing up one flange differently than before could result in a broken flange, maybe this reinforcing ring might make sense?  That would be another thing worth asking SJS.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/thorn-for-rohloff-speedhub-50014-tandem-reinforcing-rings-for-flange/?geoc=US

[jul]

I received a reply from SJS :

"Because of the drilling you will have to either:
 
Build as the markings on the hub and cross the valve hole with a spoke.
 
Or
 
Build as the markings on the hub on the non-drive side and the other way to the markings on the drive side (this is what we would do)."


I understand the first option (to cross the valve) but the second i'm not sure about understanding very well .. if a translator could help me 

[mickeg]

I would guess he means the non-drive side (the left side) should be laced the same on the hub as in the past and make your changes on the drive side (right side), but you would be better off asking the source for clarification instead of trusting my translation.

[martinf]

Personally, I would build the wheel with the spokes using the same pattern on the hub and have the minor inconvenience of having the valve crossed by a spoke rather than the unlikely but more serious risk of flange breakage.

I have a 16 inch Brompton wheel built this way (my own mistake when building), for me it is only a very minor inconvenience. But it is aesthetically less pleasing.