Thorn Cycles Forum
Technical => Wheels, Tyres and Brakes => Topic started by: jul on September 14, 2016, 06:40:45 pm
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Hi all,
I bought a new pair of Ryde Andra 40 rims, and i found something that worries me.
I would like to know your opinions..
see photos
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/07/93/69/th/andra_10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/114)
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That looks like an unfortunate joint, Julien.
The face of the braking track looks unaffected , but it would be nice to avoid the rough joint where one end of the rim appears to have been munged a bit when sectioned before roll-forming.
The rim will pull together a bit under spoke tension, but it would be nice if it had no issues so it matched your other example and was smooth at the edge.
If it were me, I would ask for an exchange.
Best,
Dan.
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Hi Dan,
Thanks to gave me your opinion.
I've contacted some professionals today, and they told me the rim is defective.
I've sent a message to the seller in Germany, for an exchange, i'm waiting his response. (his shop is close until the 19 september)
Arff i'm unlucky on this one :-\
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When you get things sorted out and have a chance to try out the Andra 40 rims, let us know what you think of them.
Looking at the Ryde site for the Andra 40 rims, it states:
OPTIMUM TYRE WIDTH (MM) 37-62
That would be perfect for me, I mostly use 50 or 57mm wide tires on my Nomad, but occasionally use tires as narrow as 40mm. Thus the range of tires I use is centered right in the middle of the recommended Andra 40 range.
I got the Andra 30 rims in part because the Thorn Nomad brochure said it was a great expedition rim, but it really is too narrow for the tire sizes I primarily use. Since my tour a few months ago, I have been considering changing to different rims. I probably would not have ordered the Andra 30 rim if I knew that they were that narrow - unfortunately I trusted the sales brochure where it touted it as a great expedition rim for the Nomad.
I am not too enthusiastic about a rim change, the time to put different rims on the hubs would be several hours, and I am sure that a new set of Andra 40 CSS rims shipped to USA would be quite costly too. But, the Andra 30 rims are just too narrow for my purposes, which frustrates me.
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Ok Mickeg.
However, it seems to me the Andra 40 does not exist version css ..
Look this one:
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/cliff-hanger-559
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When you get things sorted out and have a chance to try out the Andra 40 rims, let us know what you think of them.
Looking at the Ryde site for the Andra 40 rims, it states:
OPTIMUM TYRE WIDTH (MM) 37-62
That would be perfect for me, I mostly use 50 or 57mm wide tires on my Nomad, but occasionally use tires as narrow as 40mm. Thus the range of tires I use is centered right in the middle of the recommended Andra 40 range.
I got the Andra 30 rims in part because the Thorn Nomad brochure said it was a great expedition rim, but it really is too narrow for the tire sizes I primarily use. Since my tour a few months ago, I have been considering changing to different rims. I probably would not have ordered the Andra 30 rim if I knew that they were that narrow - unfortunately I trusted the sales brochure where it touted it as a great expedition rim for the Nomad.
I am not too enthusiastic about a rim change, the time to put different rims on the hubs would be several hours, and I am sure that a new set of Andra 40 CSS rims shipped to USA would be quite costly too. But, the Andra 30 rims are just too narrow for my purposes, which frustrates me.
Slightly confused by your post, the Andra 30 is for 25-57 the biggest Tyre we fit is 55, you say the biggest Tyre you fitted was a 57 so your rims are fine for your tyre choices, I doubt a bigger tyre tan 57 would clear in a Nomad.
We looked at the 40 but the floor is wider and slightly thinner, we know from examples of overloaded Grizzly rims that this isn't a good idea. So for now we still believe the 30 is the best touring rim for a Nomad.
Back to the OP its certainly not the best join, cosmetically not ace but in practice it would probably work just fine so if the seller gave you say 50% discount I would just use it and have it on the front.
Hope this helps, Dave.
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Slightly confused by your post, the Andra 30 is for 25-57 the biggest Tyre we fit is 55, you say the biggest Tyre you fitted was a 57 so your rims are fine for your tyre choices, I doubt a bigger tyre tan 57 would clear in a Nomad.
We looked at the 40 but the floor is wider and slightly thinner, we know from examples of overloaded Grizzly rims that this isn't a good idea. So for now we still believe the 30 is the best touring rim for a Nomad.
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I am not sure if you are saying a 57mm tire will fit in the Nomad frame or not.
My Marathon Extremes are labeled 57X559 26X2.25 and they fit fine. I do not recall if I tried them with fenders, but they fit fine when I used them without fenders. The first photo is intended not to highlight the tire, but the spoke that I somehow bent is why I took the photo. But the photo shows the tire quite well.
I originally used cantilever brakes on the rear but switched to V brakes. Second photo is when I still had cantilever brakes on it with the 57mm Extremes, the tire fit fine in that part of the frame.
Third photo does not highlight the tire in the front fork very well, but all I can say is that it seemed to fit just fine.
The Nomad brochure Issue 20 dated Autumn 2012 is the version that was current when I ordered the frame. The yellow Nomad photos in the brochure had Extremes on, but the brochure did not specify the size tire in the photo. That brochure did not list the Extremes as an available tire either. Just looking at the photo, they look like they are the 2.25 width tire, as I have used 2.0 width Extreme on my Sherpa and the tire in the photo looked smaller than the tire in the Nomad brochure.
My Sherpa, I bought the frame used from someone in Canada, he had bought the wrong size frame, thus was looking to part with his frame. When I built it up, I expected to run tires in the 40 to 50 mm width range. I used the Sheldon Brown chart at the bottom of this link to conclude that I should get a rim about 23mm wide but could get by with one that was 21mm inside width:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
I bought Salsa Gordo rims for my Sherpa, I believe that rim is no longer available. I do not remember the exact inside width of the rim, but it is in the range I wanted for my desired tire width. Thus, I was quite surprised when the Andra 30 rims arrived in the box with my Nomad frame and the Andra 30 were visually narrower than the Salsa Gordo rims even though I wanted to use the Andra 30 rims on a wider tire than I had used on the Gordo rims.
The last photo shows my Sherpa with a 50mm wide Extreme on back.
Thus, my point is that the 57mm wide Extreme fits fine in the Nomad frame and fork, and I think that the Extreme in the photos in the brochure are 57mm wide Extremes.
There were a few times when I wanted to run lower pressure for better grip with the 57m Extreme on the Andra 30 rim but the handling was not as good as I wanted, and I blamed that on how narrow the tire was on the rim.
Using that same Sheldon Brown chart, that suggests that the Andra 30 rim with an inside width of 19mm would be best used with a tire that is 28 to 44mm wide.
And that same chart suggests that a 25mm wide inner width rim would be best for 44 to 57mm tires, thus that rim might be a bit too narrow if I run 40mm wide tires, but otherwise looks like it would be ideal. And I am assuming that the 40mm wide tires would probably work ok. Thus my interest in the Andra 40 with the inner width of 25mm.
Yes I am now aware that Ryde says that the Andra 30 is good for a tire up to 57mm, but that is not my experience if I want to drop the pressure. At higher pressures they are fine, but I can't drop the pressure for better grip on loose gravel, such as the loose gravel in the third photo.
That is why I am considering changing rims. I like the CSS rims, if it was not for the CSS and the abilty to get custom Rohloff drilling, I probably would be looking at rims that are more common in USA. I am running 36 spoke wheels front and rear which the Ryde website says are available.
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[quote
We looked at the 40 but the floor is wider and slightly thinner, we know from examples of overloaded Grizzly rims that this isn't a good idea. So for now we still believe the 30 is the best touring rim for a Nomad.
Back to the OP its certainly not the best join, cosmetically not ace but in practice it would probably work just fine so if the seller gave you say 50% discount I would just use it and have it on the front.
Hope this helps, Dave.
[/quote]
I'll prefer an exchange.. some professionals tell me like you, other, the rim is defective (garbage can)
But thanks for your advise Dave.
Mickeg, do you know if there is a big difference between a tire in 2" and 2.15 ?
I think which one to choose between these two sizes.
I'm planning to ride on rought roads with Marathon mondial tires, but it is never for a long ride, so i would like a good compromise.
As well, my fenders are SKS P55
Do you think i keep my fenders with a Marathon mondial 2" ? (i see your fenders but i don't know which model'size it is)
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Mickeg, do you know if there is a big difference between a tire in 2" and 2.15 ?
I think which one to choose between these two sizes.
I'm planning to ride on rought roads with Marathon mondial tires, but it is never for a long ride, so i would like a good compromise.
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I have never used a Mondial. Within the Schwalbe family, only have used the plain Marathon (with Greengard) for pavement (tarmac) in 40 mm width, the Dureme at 50mm width and the Extreme in both 50 and 57 mm widths.
2 inch and 2.15 are pretty close to the same. Looking at the chart they are only 5mm different.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_mondial
From that chart it looks like the bigger difference is in folding vs wire bead, more than just the bead is different, the tires are constructed differently.
That said, I do not recall which bike you have. My Sherpa with a tire larger than 50 mm did not look like it had as much clearance as I wanted between the tire and fender, thus I only use 50 mm or narrower tires on that bike. If you wanted to run 55 mm tires in fenders on a Sherpa, that might be too tight. Nomad has more clearance and a 55mm tire would fit better in that bike than in the Sherpa.
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As well, my fenders are SKS P55
Do you think i keep my fenders with a Marathon mondial 2" ? (i see your fenders but i don't know which model'size it is)
I never used SKS fenders.
My fenders on my Nomad were an on-sale version of some Bontreger fenders, I do not recall what the model is. I just measured the fenders at 65 mm wide. Right now I have 57mm (rated width) Hutchinson Cobra tires that caliper at 55 mm width on the bike. Around home, about two thirds of my miles are on gravel, thus am using the Hutchinson tires that are more of a mountain bike tire than the Extreme which I think is a good touring tire for mixed gravel and bad quality pavement (tarmac).
My Sherpa has a 60mm wide fender (I just calipered it at that width) but I do not recall brand and model of the fender. It might be Planet Bike? I bought that frame used and the seller bundled the fenders with the frame as a package deal.
On the Nomad the 55 mm wide (measured width) tires in 65 mm wide fenders and on the Sherpa the 60 mm wide fender with 50 mm rated width tires have worked ok. When I hit a bump, I occasionally hear the stays bouncing off the sidewall or rubbing on some of the knobs on the tires. I occasionally have to bend the stays a bit to keep the tires centered in the fenders. But I would not want anything tighter, so I think a 10 mm difference between tire width and fender width would be a good minimum, less than 10 and there could be too much rubbing.
On another bike I ran 37mm wide tires inside 45 mm fenders. That seemed to work too, but it had more rubbing with only an 8 mm difference. On that bike I always used a non-knobby tire with a road tread, so when the stays rubbed on the tire it was less of a problem.
Because the Extremes and Cobra tires are somewhat knobby tires that can pick up twigs, etc, I try to run a lot of clearance between the fender and the tires in the rear and I try to maximize my clearance between the fender at the fork crown and tire. I really do not want to pick up a twig in the tire tread and have it jam between the tire and fender at the fork crown, thus I strive for a lot of clearance.
Because I try to have a lot of clearance between fender and tire, the fender stay brackets may be pushed a bit further away from the tire tread than typical. The brackets can be a clearance issue, as that is where rubbing is likely to occur.
I can't really think of anything else to say regarding tires and fenders. Hope this helps.
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Ok Mickeg,
10 mm difference between tire width and fender width
Thanks
:)
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So finally the seller send me a new rim and i can keep the defective rim.
He told me the rim is not nice but there is no risk as regards the stability..
In award i'm reassured !
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Yay, Julien!
A nice and happy outcome and now you won't have worries or concerns.
Thanks for the followup report!
Best,
Dan.
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Andra 40 I only build for electric bikes, its overkill, heavier and wider, stick with the 30's or the eyeletted sputnik rim.
D
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I've chosen Andra 40 rim because it's designed for large Hub (directed drilling), for wide tires (equal or up to 2"), and really strong and suitable for what i want to do..
The Andra 30 rim is too narrow for larges tires, so the flanges tires wears more quickly ..
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/07/93/69/th/20131210.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19079369/92)
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Good luck to you with the wheel build Julio! many miles on your wheels I hope :D
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The Andra 30 rim is too narrow for larges tires, so the flanges tires wears more quickly ..
Yikes!
That looks similar to damage caused by a brake pad rubbing the sidewall.
I had to make a cantilever pad adjustment this morning when I switched from 1.5in road slicks to 2.0in Duremes on my touring tandem. The wider tires brought the sidewalls into light contact with the pads while the bike was on the workstand. Something to keep in mind regardless of rim width.
All the best, and looking forward to your ride and user reports with these rims, Julien.
Dan.
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I've seen this picture on this website
http://www.frankrevelo.com/hiking/biking_nomad2012.htm
Thank you for your encouragement ! :)
I will certainly make a return as regards this rim ..
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Andra 40 I only build for electric bikes, its overkill, heavier and wider, stick with the 30's or the eyeletted sputnik rim.
D
Compared to Andra 30, the Andra 40 is only slightly heavier, so little weight penalty.
For an expedition bike I reckon it would be worth the extra 15g per wheel to have a wider rim that I believe is more suitable for wide tyres (50mm and wider), especially when running them at fairly low pressures.
Not got Andra 40's, my Raven Tour came with CSS Andra 30's, so I probably won't need new rims on that for a long time.
My opinion on rim width is based on experience in the 1980's with 650B 42-44 mm tyres on Mavic 3 (22 mm width) and Mavic 4 (26 mm) rims , I preferred the Mavic 4.
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Hi !
I just laced my front rim some days ago, with my new Son 28 dynohub and because i don't have the equipment for the tensioning, i have contacted a builder.
I recovered my new front wheel from the builder today. I doubt about his correct tension..
When i compare with my initial front wheel built from sjscycle 3 years ago (Ryde Grizzly with shimano deore), the tension is different between them (see photos)
My new front wheel is less tense as you can see
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/07/93/69/th/photo010.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/115)
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/07/93/69/th/photo011.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/116)
I'm curious what you think !? thanks
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You can't tell if the tension is different from the deflection readings on your gauge, unless the spokes on both wheels are the same. You need to check the gauge readings against the Park Tool conversion chart. http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1
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My tension actually on my new wheel is around 16/17 ( Park Tool Value), so if i understand the Park Tool conversion chart it means around 65 to 70 Kfg (for a spoke of 1.8 mm)
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/07/93/69/th/tm-1-t10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/117)
On my other wheel from sjscycle, the tension is around 138 Kfg (24 value Park Tool)
There is a big difference between them, arff :-\
I have contacted my rim's seller, and the tension should be between 112 to 122 Kfg (1100 to 1200N) so (22 to 23 Park Tool value)
Next time, i put myself in agreement with my builder ..
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Hi !
Now it is about my rear wheel i have a doubt .. when i see my previous wheel (Grizzly) it was laced as the warning rohloff method (see photo)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/07/93/69/th/rayonn10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/126)
For information my previous wheel was built by Sjscycle around 2013.
After questioning SJS, it concern only the 24" wheel or less
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Hi Julien!
The rear wheel on my 2012 Nomad was laced the same way by SJS Cycles/Thorn as yours. I was concerned about it when I worked with Thorn's designer Andy Blance to spec the bike, so I asked. He kindly explained <quote>...
That just leaves the question of the way we lace the hubs.
We lace the pulling spokes from the outside…we are convinced that this minimises the chance of the spokes causing flange failure. I am an old school wheel builder and it was difficult for me to accept this counter-intuitive solution. Note we also cross the spokes over the hub screws…this further reduces the chance of flange failure.
This is the opposite of my preferred practice in the >200 wheels I've built. However, I decided if Thorn found this true in their experience over years of selling many bikes and they back the product, then it would be logical to accept it. It should reassure you to know I have had no problems whatsoever with my Nomad's wheels over four years of use. :)
It would be best to duplicate this pattern if you relace the wheel, because the spokes (where the elbow bends meet the flanges) emboss the hub shell when fully tensioned. Lacing the wheel a different way would (could) stress the flanges at new points, possibly leading to failure.
All the best,
Dan.
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Thanks Dan.
It's right, my previous spokes have marked all my rohloff flanges's holes
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/07/93/69/th/p1110411.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/127)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/07/93/69/th/p1110412.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/128)
However, i don't know if i will can position my new spokes with the embossment flanges's holes, because between my previous Grizzly rim and my new Andra 40 rim the first hole after the valve hole didn't begin by the same side.
On my Andra 40 the fisrt hole after the valve hole begin to the right, and on my previous rim (Grizzly) the first hole begin to the left .. :-\
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...
However, i don't know if i will can position my new spokes with the embossment flanges's holes, because between my previous Grizzly rim and my new Andra 40 rim the first hole after the valve hole didn't begin by the same side.
On my Andra 40 the fisrt hole after the valve hole begin to the right, and on my previous rim (Grizzly) the first hole begin to the left .. :-\
I was going to say if it was me I would lace them up the way they were because the metal in the flanges has deformed slightly to the spoke and it is best to leave it that way. that way you would not deform the metal again a different way. But, with your different rim pattern, you might want to chat with someone at SJS. I suspect you will be lacing up one side differently than previously, but SJS may suggest which side would be best for that.
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...you might want to chat with someone at SJS...
Mickeg is spot-on with his suggestion; it would be Very Wise to check with THorn/SJS Cycles before relacing your hubs to rims that have "opposite" drilling.
All the best,
Dan.
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If there is any chance that lacing up one flange differently than before could result in a broken flange, maybe this reinforcing ring might make sense? That would be another thing worth asking SJS.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/thorn-for-rohloff-speedhub-50014-tandem-reinforcing-rings-for-flange/?geoc=US
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I received a reply from SJS :
"Because of the drilling you will have to either:
Build as the markings on the hub and cross the valve hole with a spoke.
Or
Build as the markings on the hub on the non-drive side and the other way to the markings on the drive side (this is what we would do)."
I understand the first option (to cross the valve) but the second i'm not sure about understanding very well .. if a translator could help me :)
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I would guess he means the non-drive side (the left side) should be laced the same on the hub as in the past and make your changes on the drive side (right side), but you would be better off asking the source for clarification instead of trusting my translation.
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Personally, I would build the wheel with the spokes using the same pattern on the hub and have the minor inconvenience of having the valve crossed by a spoke rather than the unlikely but more serious risk of flange breakage.
I have a 16 inch Brompton wheel built this way (my own mistake when building), for me it is only a very minor inconvenience. But it is aesthetically less pleasing.
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I received a reply from SJS :
"Because of the drilling you will have to either:
Build as the markings on the hub and cross the valve hole with a spoke.
Or
Build as the markings on the hub on the non-drive side and the other way to the markings on the drive side (this is what we would do)."
...Or you could cross the spokes over the valve and then drill another valve hole and plug the first one with a snap-in nylon cap.
I did this once for someone in a similar situation and it made them happy -- they did not want to fuss with crossed spokes when using a hand pump. I chose to drill the new hole (sized for a presta valve) at 90° to the first one instead of 180°, figuring it would avoid weakening the rim at opposite points. This was a box-section rim so I used two plugs, one inside the rim well and another outside. The heads on the nylon plugs I used are very shallow with tapered edges. I got black ones to better resist UV breakdown.
The wheel survived extensive use over many years and was sold with the bike.
Just another data point to consider.
Best,
Dan.
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...Or you could cross the spokes over the valve and then drill another valve hole and plug the first one with a snap-in nylon cap.
I did this once for someone in a similar situation and it made them happy -- they did not want to fuss with crossed spokes when using a hand pump. I chose to drill the new hole (sized for a presta valve) at 90° to the first one instead of 180°, figuring it would avoid weakening the rim at opposite points. This was a box-section rim so I used two plugs, one inside the rim well and another outside. The heads on the nylon plugs I used are very shallow with tapered edges. I got black ones to better resist UV breakdown.
The wheel survived extensive use over many years and was sold with the bike.
Just another data point to consider.
Best,
Dan.
Brilliant. I never thought of that. Thanks for posting.
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However, i don't see really the disadvantage if i choose the option " to cross the valve hole with a spoke"
With two kinds of pumps that i have at home it seems ok..
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/07/93/69/th/p1110414.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/130)
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However, i don't see really the disadvantage if i choose the option " to cross the valve hole with a spoke"
With two kinds of pumps that i have at home it seems ok..
So long as you can reach the valve without issue using one of these pumps and there is room for your fingers to secure and remove the pump head, you should be fine.
I remember on the friend's wheel (mentioned above) a person's fingers got a good drubbing at the spoke crossing when removing the pump head. Of course it was an old Silca pump with Campagnolo head (as I still use a on a couple of my own bikes today), very unlike the kind you have with a flexible hose leading to the head. He had big hands, so it was an annoyance to him when airing up the tires.
All the best,
Dan.
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I reckon you should be OK with those pumps.
My 16" Brompton wheel built with a spoke crossing the valve has 28 spokes crossing twice. I have no problems inflating the tyre on this wheel with my pumps, an SKS floor pump with flexible hose and large brass connector that pushes on, and a light Lezyne pump with screw-on flexible hose/connector.
With a 26" wheel and 32 spokes in a 1 or 2 cross pattern you should have more room than me.
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Thanks for yours remarks.
Martinf, do you think that can help me if you send me a photo of your wheel ? like that i could be inspired to make the same lacing..
As well, when i see my holes inside the rim, they are drill for two directions, and when i position my spoke with my nipple, i can't to cross the valve hole because the two directions are on the opposite side of the valve hole... so i don't see how i can cross the valve :-\
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/07/93/69/th/p1110415.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19079369/131)
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Being a 28 spoke 16 inch front wheel rather than a 32 spoke 26 inch rear wheel I doubt it will help you much, but here is a photo taken in a dark garage that shows the spoke crossing the valve.
Like the Andra and Grizzly rims, this Brompton rim has (slightly) angled and offset spoke holes, which are pointing in the right direction (laterally, I don't know if they are also angled in the longitudinal plane, in which case one side will be wrong).
I checked that, but made the silly mistake of forgetting to check that the valve hole was in the right position. It was a new hub, so I could have done it right.
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martinf,
What is that that you have laced through the spokes?
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Moonline, by 3M. No longer sold AFAIK.
A predecessor to the Sekuclip spoke reflector, 1 long flexible piece of reflective plastic weaved through the spokes.
I prefer the newer Sekuclips on most bikes, but Moonline works better on Bromptons as the Sekuclips tend to get knocked off when the bike is folded.
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I received an answer to my seller's rims ..
"I am sorry but Andra 40s always come with so-called french drillings. Only way to avoid new spoke positions in the hub will be to use another rim with european and/or non-directional drilling. A rim similar to Andra 40 would be Big Bull. These are french drilled as well, but you can put all spokes just one hole left counter clock"
Do you understand like me ? i do not have solution with my current rim ?
Martinf, thanks for the photo ;)
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Julien,
I read the quote as you do...that you will need to alter the lacing on one flange of your previously laced hub if you wish to use the Andra 40 rim.
You may find this (other) forum topic interesting...
http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=83304
All the best,
Dan.
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I would guess he means the non-drive side (the left side) should be laced the same on the hub as in the past and make your changes on the drive side (right side), but you would be better off asking the source for clarification instead of trusting my translation.
It's right Mickeg ! :)
The non-drive side is the ex-box side (left side)
I think the best for me will be to find a new Andra 40 rim drilled to the left .. (just after the valve hole)
However, is it exact than a rim drilled to the left is called "European drilling rim" and a rim drilled to the right is called (French drilling rim)?
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However, is it exact than a rim drilled to the left is called "European drilling rim" and a rim drilled to the right is called (French drilling rim)?
<nods> Yes, generally speaking, but do be wary -- there seems to be little consensus as to proper use of terms. Even references to "right hand" and "left hand" rims are not always used correctly. I've sometimes received rims that were opposite the way they were described in advertisements.
If you have any doubts before placing an order, send an inquiry to the seller with a photo showing exactly what you want.
All the best,
Dan.
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I would expect that all of the rims made by Ryde of that model woudl be drilled the same. In this age of machines doing everything, I think it unlikely that some rims would be drilled different than others unless there was a specific reason such as different drilling for a Rohloff.
After Dan made the comment on drilling a new hole elsewhere on the rim (and I responded "brilliant..."), if it was me doing this work, that is what I would have done. Some hardware stores have little plastic plugs that can fill a hole that you would no longer use. And on the inside, good rim tape might be adequate since good rim tape is perfectly adequate to cover nipple holes.
I have drilled larger diameter holes on several rims that were originally drilled for Presta. Because the Aluminum is quite soft, I am always quite careful to use very low speed and advance the bit slowly. To be even more careful, on some rims I used a hand crank drill instead of an electric drill. (I call that a cordless drill.) Since the drilling would be on a curved surface, starting with a smaller bit makes sense to control it better for initial hole placement.
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Some hardware stores have little plastic plugs that can fill a hole that you would no longer use.
Yep. This is what I described above.Because the Aluminum is quite soft, I am always quite careful to use very low speed and advance the bit slowly.
...and an appropriate cutting fluid to ensure clean margins even at low speeds.To be even more careful, on some rims I used a hand crank drill instead of an electric drill. (I call that a cordless drill.) Since the drilling would be on a curved surface, starting with a smaller bit makes sense to control it better for initial hole placement.
Just to add some data points, a metric step drill bit can sometimes work better than a twist drill when enlarging holes in thin aluminum. I also make occasional use of my HTC (Hozan) tapered hand reamer. Provided one has a small v-fixture and a drill press, a final quick dash with a countersink bit can leave the edges with valve friendly rounded edges.
All the best,
Dan.
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Ok
I've met my wheel builder, and we thought about my solution..
He confirmed that is not possible to cross the valve hole and it is not possible to drill another valve hole as solution, because my rim's holes are already chamfered for a french drilling ( direction's spokes)
I was so confused because at SJSCycle they told me and confirm me that is possible to cross a spoke under the valve hole.. but it isn't ! or i would like to know how they do ..
So i'll opt for this method but i'll have a flange hub side whose the sopkes will not be placed on the embossment : " Build as the markings on the hub on the non-drive side (ex box side) and the other way to the markings on the drive side (sprocket side)"