Rohloff skewers - recommendations and choices

[roll off]

Hello
Just researching potential skewers for my new hub and I see DT Swiss have a 10mm thru bolt and wondering if anyone has any experience with it? I don't yet have the hub in my hands so I'm not sure if its even possible to install the thru bolt or does the Rohloff have a traditional built in axle with a 5mm allowance for the skewer?
http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/RWS/RWS-Thru-bolt


- any other recommendations for skewers (belt drive + Rohloff)
- I see pitlock option is only available with the threaded Rohloff axle, how has everyone else secured the rear? regular lock to frame approach I assume...


Thanks

[Andre Jute]

A standard off the shelf fitment that replaces a QR is a long shaft with at one end a low dome which offers zero purchase to any tools and at the other end a hex-drive socket nut which can easily be replaced by a security nut of your choice. Works on a Rohloff too. Just make sure you get the right length. I have one on a Rohloff and it works a treat. Can't tell you the maker because it came standard on the bike, sorry.

[triaesthete]

Roll, you are correct about the traditional axle hole.

Shimano skewers are cheap, strong, durable and reliable, and no heavier than they need to be. They use a cam to apply tension (and no torsion) to the skewer so they don't break.

Beware of "screw to tighten" type skewers like Pitlocks and particularly many "lightweight" offerings as they all involve torqueing up a very long thin shaft and are more prone to breakage if you aren't paying enough attention. (Someone on here had recently a failure in the field of this sort iirc).

Happy shopping
Ian

[JimK]

My Nomad came with a regular QR skewer through the Rohloff axle. I replaced it with a pitlock, which hasn't given me any problems.

It is an interesting point though, that the skewer gets twisted when I tighten up the pitlock nut. That would definitely not be fun, to have a failure there! I don't apply a whole lot of torque. My pitlock key is on a keyring, along with my Kryponite U-lock key. I just use that key ring for leverage. I typically remove the wheels twice a year - switching to studded tires at the start of winter and back to smooth tires at the end.

I usually lock the rear wheel anyway so what's the point of the pitlock? But then sometimes a situation makes locking difficult so I end up... the other day I just locked the front wheel to a post so it was my pitlocks that held the rest together... except with the S&S (de)couplers... well how hard would it be to hacksaw through frame tubes, anyway?

[mickeg]

I wanted a non-quick release that did not use a special tool that I might lose.  The Halo XL that uses a standard 5mm allen wrench works well for me.  I do not tighten them really tight so it is unlikely that I will strip the threads or break them.  The XL size is likely needed if you are putting it on a bike with thick dropouts like the Nomad.  The front was too long for my hub, I cut it a bit shorter.  The Halo can be a bit confusing at first, there is only one spring on the skewer, not two like on others.  You also have to take care to get the tab lined up proper, but it works well once you get used to it.

[martinf]

I also have Halo skewers, the tab is a nice feature, saves having to grip the other end when tightening the Allen bolt.

[geocycle]

I use pitlocks. I did break one through over-tightening (my fault entirely)  but otherwise I'm pleased with them. I keep the nut attached to my multitool and use a screwdriver through the holes or the thorn EBB tool to turn it. Dan mentioned that there are now ways known to overcome them but they would deter most thieves round here.  I carry a small d lock when out riding and sometimes have to secure using just the frame or even a wheel so it's good piece of mind.

[Danneaux]

Dan mentioned that there are now ways known to overcome them but they would deter most thieves round here.

Hi Geo'! True enough; one can assess the local risk and fall on the right side with almost any solution. The worst risk often seems to be in big cities and large urban areas where bike theft is rampant and thieves are well-versed in cracking almost any security solution. Your strategy sounds like a good one for your area.

Best,

Dan.

[moodymac]

roll off,

Jim-k's system has another advantage, i.e.  if the hub is also locked a thief cannot merely cut the spokes and remove the hub.

Tom

[il padrone]

Hi Geo'! True enough; one can assess the local risk and fall on the right side with almost any solution. The worst risk often seems to be in big cities and large urban areas where bike theft is rampant and thieves are well-versed in cracking almost any security solution.

Some of the 'risks' may be overstated. For example, one that I have heard of is the slight backing off of cones - the Rohloff and the SON28 don't have any cones so that one is a myth for me.

Tools to grip/wedge the Pitlock nut or skewer head - how much torque can you really get on a correctly fitted Pitlock?? I remain sceptical.


There is also the Atomic 22 skewer which is a security bolt system for axle skewers and many other bike parts, like Pitlock. They have a large number of coded keys for the bolts, and they apparently only make a certain number of copies of any one code and spread them out globally. They also have a "bespoke" range that provide you with a "unique" key. They can also be used with solid axles, which the OP asked about.