I think all that grease is overkill. If you get flats, you'll have to unscrew the ex box to remove the rear wheel, at which point all that grease will collect crud. I don't see any reason to put grease other than in the hollow part of the ex box, the part that goes right over the drive axle.
Why is called a clickbox? No clicking goes on inside it.
I've just had my Hebie Chainglider open along its entire length after about 3400km, and there was very little inside. Dust can get in but doesn't. My bike takes a fine coat of dust from the roads on the paintwork, but it doesn't get into the Hebie. The truth is that the thing is probably airtight along much of it's length, and the openings are small. I suspect that if you try it you will find not too much dust gets in.
Andre Jute
Good stuff Andre glad it worked out for you,just thinking that grease looks like the same colour as your bike ;D ;D so no need to go cleaning it off it would never be noticed.
also i surly wish you and Dan would make a video of all this TECH stuff you do on your bikes.
cheers
jags.
ps whats the weather like in bandon.
Hi folks.
If I fit a Chainglider to the Thorn with S&S couplings I hope to buy, will it hinder the un-coupling?
But taking a Chainglider off altogether is not advised until you've learned the tricky contortion to get it back on with all parts on the right side of the chain and chainring; this is because the matching, plug-together parts change direction at the front centre of the chainring, under the add-on brace there.
Martin, the brace I refer to is the small clip that holds the extreme forward end of the Chainglider together. -- AJ
There must be some model variation or a redesign. Mine, bought a few months ago, has no such clip or brace at the front, just a notch and tab like the other fastening points.
Hi Andre!
Though you did a wonderful job cleaning the Finish Line grease from the mating surfaces and engagement well of your click-box before applying Phil grease, I fear some of the FinishLine may have made its way into the interior.
I've had great success with Phil Wood grease for well over 30 years, but I've always used it alone, after removing all traces of any preceding lube (easy to do when the component is a hub, pedals, BB, or headset). I'm concerned about how well the Phil grease might lubricate or protect if it mixes with any remaining traces of Finish Line that remains in the click-box housing. Sometimes greases mix just fine and may well in this case; after all, the Finish Line has a high Teflon content and Teflon/PTFE is pretty much inert (it is the carrier that can sometimes cause problems; the Finish Line uses a synthetic base while Phil is petroleum-based). Occasionally, when different types of grease mix, the sum is less than the parts -- the mix can become runny and migrate, or it can become gummy and fail to protect. I have seen some Very Bad Things happen when automotive greases are mixed, so I have those vivid memories in mind. A few of the potential problems are outlined here: http://www.mobilindustrial.com/IND/English/Files/tt-grease-compatibility.pdf
Methodologically, the trial would be more valid if only Phil grease were used, but my main concern is how the mix will work for you.
I don't want to inject even a hint of unease in your trial, but I've heavily endorsed Phil grease alone and I'd feel terrible if the mix of greases somehow failed to adequately protect or lubricate your lovely Kranich by the time of your next inspection in 1000km. Might it be worth inspecting at an earlier interval to make sure all is well? Alternatively, might it be possible to disassemble the click-box for cleaning before a relube with Phil grease alone?
All the best,
Dan.
The entire concept of a low maintenance bike, to the lengths I've long since taken it, is antipathetic to and totally out of sympathy with the roadie obsession of cleaning the drivetrain with cotton buds after every ride to make expensive but shortlived transmission components live a few hundred miles longer.Andre! :o You've got to stop with the Remote Viewing, or get an even sharper lens...you missed seeing me floss between the freewheel/cassette cogs and up inside the rear derailleur cage on my non-Rohloff bikes! :o ::) :D ;D
Does yours still have a change of direction between top and bottom runs of which is the inner and which the outer part? (Same question to you, Martin, if you please.) On mine at the top run, the section nearest the bike clips into the outer section, whereas on the bottom rung the section nearer the bike is wider and the outside piece clips into it.
btw is there a better more reliably headset than that one. ;)
That Stronglight A9 is supposed to be the cat's whiskers. Never had one though.For 1" threaded headsets, they're long-lived -- I have over 40,000 miles on three of them, but they are unsealed and have wide cup clearances, allowing for lossy lubrication. They should be used with mudguards for best protection against water and dirt. They're not very well-finished, and are below Stronglight's usual execution.
I *think* jags is looking for a 1-1/8" headset for his Sherpa, but I'm not sure. He'll tell us soon enough. ;)
Photo essay:
Towards a Zero Maintenance Bike
Servicing the Rohloff EXT Clickbox
with Phil Waterproof Grease (http://coolmainpress.com/BICYCLINGRohloffEXTservice.html)
Does this apply to the other gear click box the one thats above? I have never heard that you need to grease them. Can't remember ever seeing it on Rohloff service book/videos
A small point, but it is Phil Waterproof Grease and Phil Tenacious Oil. The distinction is important because they are intended for vastly different purposes and have different characteristics and viscosities and behaviors in use.
My Phil grease is dark green in color, did they change the formula? Mine is decades old, thus I assume yours is newer.
Thanks to all who contributed to the experiment. Particular thanks to Anto for the gift of the Phil's Waterproof Grease, and to Dan for arranging the posting from the States.You're welcome. Andre. It has been interesting to see the experiment and it points up the importance of lubing the external shift-box, a step too often neglected. Any sort of lube there, as Rohloff advise, will surely extend its service life.