Operation Cairngorms - 22/8/2014
I awoke in a slightly chilly pod at 08:00, went to the ablutions and then sat down to breakfast in the bothy determined to get plenty of food down my neck. I munched my way through a pack of cooked ham, 1/3 of a small Brie, some dates and 2 mugs of coffee. I packed up the bike and set off north into a 15-25 mph headwind.
Within 15 minutes I was so hot that divestment of clothing was the order of the day. Then 15 minutes after that I was feeling worn out so I stopped at a pottery/cafe for a cup of tea, which turned into a pot of tea, a flapjack, an ice cream and two flapjacks and two cans of Fanta to take away. They have an interesting shop selling pottery and other quality goods, rather than the standard tourist tat. Superb home bakes too.
I was soon off again but feeling over full with food now! Progress up Glenshee was slow due to the winds and the hills. I really struggled to get over the next hump of what was initially a rollercoaster of a road. I shouldn't have complained as the rise was soon going up interminably in earnest. Harley Davidson riders were going past every few minutes, so I assumed that a rally was being held somewhere. To the left I could hear the shotgun blasts of dumb animal shooting. I tried to ride a few hundred yards then stop for a rest, but in the end I had to give up and start pushing. The bike and luggage were feeling really heavy and my calf muscles were complaining bitterly, so I would get on, ride a bit, rest a bit, walk a bit, gradually biting my way up the hill, assuming that anyone else on this hill would just be bowling along. Then I turned around and spotted a racing snake in the distance pushing his obviously lightweight bike up the hill too. Annoyingly he seemed to be catching me up. I wasn't going to make it easy for him so I piled on the pressure to speed up, but reality got the better of me and he drew level, moaned about the headwind, then carried on. He soon reached the top of the hill and was away. I put in one last valiant effort to ride to the top, failed miserably, pushed the last 100 yards then looked forward to swooping past the ski resort place.
Fairly obviously the wind was even worse on the other side. Racing snake had stopped at the resort so I waved as I went past. If I pedalled downhill I could just about manage 11 mph on what must have been a 1 in 10 hill. How depressing. I continued on nonetheless, deciding that once the bike computer went past 20 miles, I would stop for a break. A lovely bridge came up on my left, someone pulled in, then someone was in the next roadside verge thing. Eventually I decided that solace was best had somewhere un-notable, so just pulled into the side of the road and swigged away at the water bottles.
It wasn't long before signs for Braemar appeared and I pooled into town wondering about where to find accommodation. The call to the hostel in the morning had already advised me that there was no room there for 6 weeks. Priority was to keep the calories up so after a potter around town I decided on The Bothy. The coronation chicken jacket spud went down so well that on the basis of it I proposed to the chef. I have yet to have her answer, but much mirth was caused by my proposal. It got hot inside so I took the iPad outside, where there was still a wifi signal, to carry on the electronic admin. It started raining, for only the third time today, so I went back indoors, ordered more tea and a slice of the cake - just superb and. I can see why the place is so popular. Back outside. I had questions about the bike and the length of time my journey had taken. I must look fitter thanI think because one person imagined that I had only taken one day to manage my route so far. This was at about 2pm! I told them that I was fat and old, much plagued by illness and I was just taking it easy.
A trip to the tourist info office had me pointed off in the direction of a backpackers hostel called backpackers. After the first couple of turn left, turn right instructions I had not bothered to listen, so needless to say I didn't find the place. To be fair though, the local walking his dog that I accosted had no idea where the place was either, and he suggested the place on the edge of town that I already knew was full. So it was a trip back to the TIC and a request that they look for something else for me and only give instructions that an infant could follow. Everything was fully booked on their system so they started ringing around the others. A room was found in the Invercauld Arms, and I was glad of its lovely staff and slightly faded glory. Bingo at 8:30 is on offer and I wondered if their was a chance of pulling a couple of grannies for some group action in my room. I had a cider to cool my desires, wandered into town, nearly bought another Tilley hat, but bought super lightweight trousers instead so that I can throw away the communist blue Craghoppers that I have had for over a decade and seemed to have picked up a few smears of peafowl poo from the EcoCamp.
Weather-wise it has been a mixed bag, a heavy shower, light short showers, low temperatures that cold that a jacket was necessary, and glorious dome-burning sunshine. My face looks decidedly reddened. A few days ago I expected to be going down with exposure. Such is the weather in Scotland.
I tried to extend my stay in the hotel, but there is not a single space available tomorrow. I have been advised to ask at reception again tomorrow in case there have been any cancellations. Never mind if there hasn't, I shall head off past Ballater and find the next available place. I have changed my ferry booking from Wednesday back to Monday as I have no wish to be hanging around in Aberdeen for a couple of days. It's a shame that I haven't made more use of what was on offer here, but that's down to the over-developed cracking on gene as well as corrugated road sections that have given my gonads a good hammering, just when you were least expecting it.