oponion on these cranksets please.

[ians]

Dan. (...who used to shorten and re-weld front mech cages when he made his own compact 38/34/16, 13-34 drivetrains in the late-'70s/early-'80s using freewheel cogs as innermost chainrings)

Dan - now why am I not surprised by this? 

My wife has just returned from a 20km test run and reports no undue scraping or other sick drivetrain noises.  So I'll live with the 110mm axle. 

ian

[macspud]

That was the first thing I tried.

I checked on the Sheldon Brown website and it makes the comment that fatter tubed bikes (MTB/Hybrids) may need a longer axle than steel frames because the front changer cage will be stick out further.  Should have read that first. 

So I assume the Spa/Sugino recommended axle length of 110mm is based on a steel frame.

If you can't adjust the outer limit screw so that cage doesn't hit the crank whilst still changing smoothly. It would seem that the problem is with the cage not the bottom bracket, the problem would likely be the same with a longer bottom bracket i.e. either smooth change with interference or no interference but not smooth change.

[jags]

Crankset arrieved this morning looks class thanks sjs talk about being on the ball 
ok i have bb fitted crankse fitted so far so goob, just fit peddals and then a test run fingers crossed its spot on.

[Danneaux]

Hi All!

Jags emailed me some photos of the crank and finished installation, which I have posted for him as a composite below.

It surely looks nice, and it is great to see it installed on bike rather than just in product photos. A very clean design, I'd say, and one that blends in nicely with most bikes. I can see it looking very nice on, say, an Audax. I see you've changed the rear derailleur as well, and it appears everything went together fine with the internal BB. Does the chainline look good?

Please let us know if you run into any snags in use. The appearance is fantastic and should be just what you were seeking to lower your gearing that little bit as desired. May you ride it in good health (and recover soon from your present cold)!

Best,

Dan.

[jags]

Thanks Dan yeah all went well,on the bike stand all is running smooth  didn't get a chance to road test it though  i'm as sick as a dog .
but yeah delighted with the new crankset  suits the bike as its more  retro if thats the right word .have to say great service from sjs thanks lads.
now to clean up the tiagra crankset and sell it on if i get 50 euro for it i'll be happy..

[Andybg]

Very nice looking jags.

Real class

Andy

[jags]

Cheers Andy well couldn't hold back much longer sick or not just done 6 miles to see if all was well.
very happy runs like clockwork  ,so when i put on the new lighter wheels it should make the world of difference,i'll keep the sherpa for touring.
thanks for all the help lads greatly appreciated.

cheers
jags.

[Andre Jute]

but yeah delighted with the new crankset  suits the bike as its more  retro if thats the right word .have to say great service from sjs thanks lads.

Verra nice. Just went down to check the cranks are still on my bike...

I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.

Andre Jute

[jags]

might even change the middle 38 ring to a nice 36 but not just yet.

[Danneaux]

I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.

Andre,

A nice, two-part catalyzing acrylic would do, Andre...or simply baking enamel for a long, long time. The latter works nicely with black finishes. I've had good luck with both over the years.

Shimano paint their high-end MTB cranks now. A real adjustment for someone like me, who had previously equated "quality" with a nice polished or anodized surface treatment. I love my "galaxy black" Shimano Deores on the Nomad...even to the little silver metalflakes that show in bright sunlight.

Related threads elsewhere linked here:
http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/366843/any-black-shimano-crankarms-or-paint-them
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=3967900;
http://gearinches.com/blog/how-to/polished-crankset
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/521929-Painting-chainrings-cranks
http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/best-way-paint-cranks-552231.html
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=17024763

Best,

Dan. (...who has painted, polished, milled, and engraved a number of cranks over the years with good results...but has yet to anodize one)

[NZPeterG]

Hi All!

Jags emailed me some photos of the crank and finished installation, which I have posted for him as a composite below.

It surely looks nice, and it is great to see it installed on bike rather than just in product photos. A very clean design, I'd say, and one that blends in nicely with most bikes. I can see it looking very nice on, say, an Audax. I see you've changed the rear derailleur as well, and it appears everything went together fine with the internal BB. Does the chainline look good?

Please let us know if you run into any snags in use. The appearance is fantastic and should be just what you were seeking to lower your gearing that little bit as desired. May you ride it in good health (and recover soon from your present cold)!

Best,

Dan.

Hi Dan is that front derailleur a little high?

Pete 

[NZPeterG]

I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.

Andre Jute

Hi Andre Jute
I have over the years had good luck with getting things reanodized to match up colours on Motocross Bikes (motorbikes that is!)
All the best.

Pete . . . 

[Danneaux]

Hi Dan is that front derailleur a little high?

Hi Pete!

I didn't do the installation (just posted the photos), but jags reports good luck with it and smooth shifting and operation. Part of it could be camera angle or the geometry of the front mech's parallelogram.

Generally, I prefer the bottom edge of my front derailleur's cage to clear the top of the large chainring by ~1mm at the closed part of its swing, allowing for chainring and BB spindle runout. When the derailleur cage is centered on the large 'ring, then clearance is much greater, or course.

When I had my Sherpa, I noticed Thorn had set up my front derailleur with considerably more clearance (necessitated so the derailleur mounting clamp could clear the seat tube bottle boss) and to my surprise, all worked out very nicely with extremely reliable, crisp, and clean front shifting with no overshifts or chain spills -- functionally perfect. I've noticed more front derailleurs on recent bikes sitting "high" compared to older standards, and they seem to work fine also. Perhaps it has something to do with the shifting pins and ramps on modern front chainrings and the shaped and contoured cages on current front derailleurs, designed to work with indexed shifting. I know my old, plain 'rings and flat-cage front mechs designed in the days of friction shifting weren't so tolerant and needed tight clearances to work as reliably.

All the best,

Dan.

[Andre Jute]

Thank you so much, Dan and Pete. I'll have to study those links. We have local platers who can handle an anodizing job but they are hemming and hawing about the color, which is a non-RAL green...

Andre Jute

[NZPeterG]

Hi Pete!

I didn't do the installation (just posted the photos), but jags reports good luck with it and smooth shifting and operation. Part of it could be camera angle or the geometry of the front mech's parallelogram.

Generally, I prefer the bottom edge of my front derailleur's cage to clear the top of the large chainring by ~1mm at the closed part of its swing, allowing for chainring and BB spindle runout. When the derailleur cage is centered on the large 'ring, then clearance is much greater, or course.

When I had my Sherpa, I noticed Thorn had set up my front derailleur with considerably more clearance (necessitated so the derailleur mounting clamp could clear the seat tube bottle boss) and to my surprise, all worked out very nicely with extremely reliable, crisp, and clean front shifting with no overshifts or chain spills -- functionally perfect. I've noticed more front derailleurs on recent bikes sitting "high" compared to older standards, and they seem to work fine also. Perhaps it has something to do with the shifting pins and ramps on modern front chainrings and the shaped and contoured cages on current front derailleurs, designed to work with indexed shifting. I know my old, plain 'rings and flat-cage front mechs designed in the days of friction shifting weren't so tolerant and needed tight clearances to work as reliably.

All the best,

Dan.

Hi Dan
No the STD set up is still 1 to 2mm on all the new derailleurs and Designs made. So the one you have seen where just set up bad!
There are too few good Cycle Mech's around in the World today! Yes its sad but true  
If more people would shop at there LBS (yes there only a few good ones left) I would have a full time Job at my LBS.
All good I'm trying to find a Linehaul Truck Driving Job! Good pay! To save for my up coming World Cycle Ride...  

Pete . . .