Author Topic: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?  (Read 7923 times)

Slammin Sammy

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Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« on: May 15, 2013, 05:34:04 PM »
Hello all,

I notice SJS don't sell a Rohloff-drilled version of the Rigida Grizzly rims? This is surprising, as these rims have a slightly higher profile than the Andras, and are virtually the same width. Does anyone care to comment on why that might be?

I'm tempted to start my new Nomad off with non-CSS Grizzlies for my UK and Europe tour in September, and change to CSS Andras for an outback expedition about a year later.

And yes, I've just last night ordered my Nomad frameset for a self-build! I'm so excited I can't sleep!  :D

Cheers!
Sam

Danneaux

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2013, 05:43:39 PM »
Quote
Does anyone care to comment on why that might be?
Hi Sammy!

The Grizzly is a ferruled rim, whereas the Andra is not; two different designs to the extrusions. Instead, the Andra has a thick central ridge inside that forms the spoke nipple bed as part of the extrusion and the nipple seats are drilled in such a way as to allow a degree of self-centering when building with a Sapim Polyax nipple, aiming the nipple more directly toward the hub without incurring any nasty kinks and stress risers in the spoke at the end of the nipple. To redrill the Grizzly's would take out the ferrule. Instead, SJS Cycles' builder might instead use a steel rod or similar device while building to slightly angle the ferrule seats to better accommodate larger spoke angles, as used to be common practice.

You've some wonderful shorter-term and longer-term travel plans on your docket, Sammy; terrific! Can't wait to hear the details as they come together.

Annnnd...a Nomad frame on the way?!? WowZa! Exciting times, indeed!
Quote
I'm so excited I can't sleep!
Don't blame you a whit; I've been there myself. Sleep can always come later! Anticipation, well, that's 2/3 of the delight!

Best,

Dan.

Slammin Sammy

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2013, 05:52:21 PM »
Doh!  ::) I didn't notice the difference in section!

That's as good an explanation as I'm likely to get. Thanks, Dan!

Regarding my sleepless nights, it's the only chance I get to dream up my ideal fit out. So no time to sleep - i'll do my dreaming whilst awake!

For instance, what will look better on a yellow bike with black wheels and red Ortleib Plus bar bag? Red hubs or black? (Rohloff and Son, of course.) I think I will throw it over to my learned colleagues in this forum. See separate post.  ;)

Danneaux

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2013, 05:53:35 PM »
Quote
See separate post.
Lookin' for'd to it, Sammy!

You may wish to set it up as a poll. Just like making a new topic, but on the next tab (see attached pic below).

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2013, 06:01:09 PM by Danneaux »

ZeroBike

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2013, 07:49:49 PM »
Is the difference in the ride between Grizzlys and Andras all that noticable?

Danneaux

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2013, 08:30:23 PM »
Quote
Is the difference in the ride between Grizzlys and Andras all that noticable?
Hi Zero!

SJS Cycles lists the 26" 32-hole Grizzly as weighing 490g. They list the same size Andra at 735g. Put another way, a Grizzly weighs ~66% of one Andra.

While I haven't ridden Grizzlys and Andras back to back for comparison, I have ridden 700C rims that differed by a like amount.

What we're talking about here is rotating weight, and the effect of rotating weight becomes more pronounced the further is it placed away from the hub. There isn't so much difference in steady-state riding and once one is up to speed, the extra weight almost acts like a flywheel. However, you'll really feel the difference in stop-start cycling and in cases where there are frequent changes in speed (think: Rollercoaster hills, up-down-up, or while commuting with lots of stop-starts away from traffic signs and signals at intersections, and "sporty" riding or racing). In those cases -- yes! -- you really feel the difference. The whole bike feels less responsive, harder to spin up to speed, and a bit "dead" feeling with the heavier rims.

Remember, though, the rims aren't the only factor in this equation. There's tires and tubes to consider as well, and they're even farther away from the wheel axis (hub/axle). A person can mitigate some of the difference of heavy rims by running lighter tires and/or tubes when conditions allow, saving the heavier-duty versions for full-on tours and the like. The best way to determine the effect in terms of rotating weight is to add-up the rims, tubes, and tires for each combo and then compare to see how much difference you end up with overall.

When all is said and done, a light pair of wheels will transform a bike positively, and a heavy pair...will transform it as well -- more in some conditions than others. If you ride at a pretty steady pace with few starts/stops, the difference in feel can be almost nil. If you have frequent start-stops or changes in speed, you'll really notice it. It goes without saying that if one prefers to ride in a sporting fashion, then the difference can be huge.

The extra weight in an Andra comes from two things: 1) The thick central rib that serves as a gimbled spoke well and 2) thicker rim sidewalls.  Each of these serve to make the Andra a longer-lived, heavier-duty rim, but it may be overkill for less than extended global touring. Don't forget -- CSS sidewall treatments can make the CSS Grizzly effectively as long-lived (or more) than a plain Andra with only machined sidewalls, but at greater financial cost (£70.00 vs £29.99). That might not pencil out in every case, and also reports of poorer wet-weather braking for the CSS can require some juggling of pads to find the best working combo in individual cases for riding in heavy downpours.

I weighed the factors for my needs and chose the plain Andras for my Nomad. If the CSS-treated rims had as-good wet-weather braking, I would surely have chosen that route for the longer service life. Between the CSS Grizzly and CSS Andra...now that's a harder choice! I might well have gone for the CSS Grizzly and saved a considerable amount on rotating mass for a livelier feel when riding unladen. As it is, if I wish to recover some sprightliness, I can always fit some smaller diameter 26x1.5 skinwall slicks and ultralight tubes and be in almost the same place as a lighter rim fitted with a heavier tire (and -- thanks to less pneumatic trail due to the smaller profile, a change in handling as well).

Hope this helps.

Best,

Dan.

ZeroBike

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2013, 01:16:03 AM »
Thanks Dan.  That was very well explained.

mickeg

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2013, 03:09:14 PM »
As an engineer, I prefer things to look like they match, especially on a new build.  So, I prefer the same rims front and rear.  But, if you are more concerned about weight than aesthetics, you could put the Andra on back where the strength is more important and the Grizzly on front where a lighter rim would probably provide adequate strength.

Peddrov

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2013, 05:12:21 PM »
As an engineer, I prefer things to look like they match, especially on a new build.  So, I prefer the same rims front and rear.  But, if you are more concerned about weight than aesthetics, you could put the Andra on back where the strength is more important and the Grizzly on front where a lighter rim would probably provide adequate strength.
I went this route with my Raven, CSS Grizzlys on front, CSS Andras on back. To be honest, apart from the Rigida label on the inside of the rim, there is no difference in looks that I could detect. So, at least for the CSS rims, aesthetical reasons shouldn't stop you from this combination. Whether it's a good idea, I don't know, but if you're on the fence between these two rims... why not?

Here's a picture of the bike:

« Last Edit: May 21, 2013, 05:14:58 PM by Peddrov »

theplebe

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #9 on: December 21, 2013, 10:57:31 AM »
Hi could somebody come up with a reference about this either from rohloff or from a general book about wheelbuilding (i have been looking through the manual and cannot find)
story goes...
I went into a bike shop next to where I had moved and asked for a rohloff rebuild I actually had already done allot of reading and brought it to their attention as I realized that they had no previous experience with rohloffs i suggested the andra they suggested
the rhyno rim....i was aware of it as a an okey  budjet rim...foolishly i succumb 3 months...caved in to temptetion of saving a few quid and 3 months later/ 400 miles only  I have no less 4 broken spokes all broken at the nipple...(the nipple has broken not the spoke) now from what i have read I reason it was either a bad beild with too short spokes or the angle of the spoke/issue

i dropped by to see what the shops feelings where about it  and thoght they had not seen the rim they seemed like they would approach the problem from replace the broken spokes that i think would by no means be a permanent sollution
When I spoke with the guy who built the wheel he said "although the rim might not have been the most ideal the acute angle of the spokes should not be an issue look at brompton wheels they have very acute angles" (i suspect the answer to that is they have even shorter/more rigid spokes  )

I feel it was a bad decision that I had that shop build the wheel since they didnt....and i will feel at ease to go there and insist to have a new rim build if there is a general reference about the diameter of hub flanges-spoke lenght-spoke angle rather than a specific one about the rohloff but either would be a great help cheers


mickeg

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #10 on: December 21, 2013, 02:06:04 PM »
First, look at the wheel to check if they laced it 3 cross or not.  Rohloff specifies 1 or 2 cross depending on wheel diameter.  If 3 cross, demand a new wheel build with proper cross pattern.

I have seen reference to spoke problems with Rohloffs and the severe angle of spoke alignment to the rim in Thorn bike brochures.

This is another place to look.
http://www.bikestation.fi/info/en/brands/rigida-ryde/

I built up my own wheels with Andra rims.  I told Thorn that one wheel would be built up with a Rohloff, Thorn labled which of my rims had Rohloff drilling when I received the rims from them.  

Sapim nipples may work better if they did not use them.  I did not use Sapim spokes (they are hard to find in USA), but I did use Sapim nipples.
http://www.sapim.be/nipples/brass/polyax
« Last Edit: December 21, 2013, 02:13:12 PM by mickeg »

davefife

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #11 on: December 21, 2013, 02:42:42 PM »
Hi theplebe, I am a wheelbuilder including rohloff hubs, there are many variables that to advise you one needs to know.

Rim size; spoke and nipple manufacturer, size, gauge, plain or double/single butted, cross pattern, stainless steel/zinc plated; laced as per the rohloff instructions.  Can you provide more detail.  If not, get the wheel rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing and accept a learning experience :-\

The key variables are to use a quality spoke and nipple of the correct length, breaking as you describe suggests the wrong length - too short! Also the build method should be as outlined in the rohloff manual.  I have several customers with Rohloff hubs who came to me after their first wheel build was done incorrectly.
Dave
 

rualexander

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #12 on: December 21, 2013, 04:05:50 PM »
There are plenty of people running Rohloff hubs on non Rohloff specific rims, so I doubt if that is the main reason for your spoke failures, most likely something to do with the wheelbuilding.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2013, 06:59:03 PM by rualexander »

NZPeterG

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #13 on: December 21, 2013, 06:38:15 PM »
Hi do you have a photo?

Pete
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Andre Jute

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Re: Rohloff Drilling for Grizzly Rims?
« Reply #14 on: December 21, 2013, 07:08:47 PM »
There are several guys called Dave with experience of building Rohloff wheels. It isn't rocket science, but it takes a certain amount of knowledge and experience. You should give the job to someone who knows what he's doing, and consider the LBS jokers a learning experience. It sounds like they had spokes that were a fraction too short and blundered ahead, filling in with the nipple. That might work with a light duty, low mileage bike, but it won't wash on a heavy duty bike traveling plenty of distance under sometimes adverse conditions, as you have discovered. Continuing with them is likely to lead to further expense and frustration and days and weeks lost out of the riding season. You want either an experienced guy with the correctly scaled parts in stock, as above, or you want an obsessive who will tell you to wait while he orders the right parts, and who doesn't need to be told to rebuild the wheel if it isn't perfect the first time round. You don't sound like you have the experience to know the second class of mechanic...

One tip above all others (well, okay, after getting the right wheel builder) is to use Sapim Strong spokes and their polyax system. These Sapim Strong spokes are ugly because they have a short, sharply defined butt, but they're light enough and strong beyond belief. Get a matching rim (see Dan's post above) with strong sidewalls that will resist brake abrasion for a good long time, use recognized, recommended brake blocks, not ultra-abrasive boutique rubbish, and you won't need to think about your wheels again for years.

The first thorough-going scientific and still best book on bicycle wheels is The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt. Unfortunately, Jobst is an ex-Porsche engineer who thinks everyone is as bright and quick and well-educated as he is, and his book isn't an easy read, or for the mathematically challenged. I have a copy and it is well worth working your way through it. For brownie points, spot the small inconsistency, not yet removed in the current edition, and perhaps permanent now that Jobst, an elderly chap, has been hurt in a bad accident.