Road buzz

[bottom bracket]

Hi, I have just changed from drop bars, which I have used for years and years, to straight riser bars, forced because of my brazed on brake fittings,and am experiencing bad pain in the wrists and numbness in the fingers, I was led to believe that straight bars where more ergonomically better, Can anyone suggest a remedy for the dilemma   

[Andybg]

Hi

Welcome to the forum. Am not really clear on your reason for changing to straights but a couple of things to look at:

Bar material: Steel or carbon fibre bars will dampen road noise much better than aluminium bars.

Fitting of bar ends like the Ergon GP5 would not only give more hand positions but would "add" some extra dampening from both the softer material but also the extra length.

They would also better replicate your geometry from your drops.

Hope this helps

Andy

[JimK]

There is also the matter of reach. Usually drops have the hands further out from the end of the stem, while straight bars are closer in. To get a similar reach, you might need a longer stem.

Of course you want to check on the height, too. A higher handlebar should be easier on the hands and wrists.

[Danneaux]

Hi BB, and welcome to the Forum!

You mentioned the change from drop handlebars to straights was...

forced because of my brazed on brake fittings

If you find you simply cannot tolerate the change and would like to revert to drops, it is possible even with brazed-on brake fittings. Drop-bar brake levers will work nicely with cantilever brakes. If you are running v-brakes, then there are compatible levers available for them as well (Thorn fit Tektro RL520 levers, which work very nicely and are remarkably inexpensive).

Adding to Andy and Jim's fine suggestions, I agree raising the handlebars helps greatly in relieving pressure on the hands regardless of the type of 'bar. Using padded gloves/mitts and/or padding the handlebar helps as well. I have found the padding helps most by increasing the surface area of the handlebar where my hands rest. On my drop 'bars, I use padded tape to compression-wrap Grab-On foam grips. In straight handlebars, any of the variety of ergo grips will help to spread your weight over a larger surface, easing localized pressure on your hands.

Additionally, your hand comfort might benefit from a change in tire width and/or pressure. I have found running fatter tires at lower pressure has greatly reduced the small-amplitude/high frequency "road buzz" that comes through my handlebars. See: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3798.msg37683#msg37683

As a data point, my short trials with straight handlebars also resulted in bad wrist pain and numb fingers; it became far worse on rides longer than two hours. It seems my body is really much happier when riding if my palms generally face each other on the handlebars. Though straight handlebars appeal for a number of reasons, I just find myself unable to use them. Andy's suggestion to fit bar-ends would put your hands in a more "drop-like" position while using straight 'bars.

Best,

Dan.

[bottom bracket]

Hi everyone thanks for your replies ,I should have stated the reason for changing to straight riser bars....the Magura hss 66, hydraulic brake finally gave up with bad leaks at the pistons, and no chance of replacement seals , I had a new brake lever a few years ago from the UK branch of Magura and the manager there was most helpful , (unlike the German side) this is why I had to stay with  hydraulics  Magura , now HS33, which themselves are better than the old Hss66, and the Shimano XT trigger shifters a delight  to use, 

[Danneaux]

Hi BB!

Ah! Now I understand...hydraulics on the brazed-on mounts.

There are a number of "brifter"-to-hydraulic slave adapters on the market, most coming out of Germany. These allow use of mechanical drop-handlebar STI brake/shifter levers with hydraulic brakes of a variety of brands.  Here is one example, the Trickstuff Doppelmoppel: http://www.trickstuff.de/en/products/Doppelmoppel.php  

More here:
http://www.cxmagazine.com/drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-cable-pull-adapter-for-cyclocross-cannard
http://www.cxmagazine.com/trp-parabox-hydraulic-disc-brake-system-for-cyclocross-first-ride
Velotraum offer one ("Eddy") as well as mentioning an STI-to HS33 version by Magura: http://velotraum.de/news/pinion-alfine-di2-magura-adapter-messe-nachlese-und-velotraum-2013

Though most such adapters are intended for hydraulic disc brakes, I recall seeing one that was supposed to be compatible with Magura HS33s. I remember one case where Magura's RT8c converter box was supposedly adapted to HS33s, but I don't have the reference to hand. There is also a drill-through STI-to-Magura adaptation that makes the HS33 levers into interrupter/cross-top levers, pictured here:
Original German text: http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=221829
GoogleTranslated to English: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mtb-news.de%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D221829
...And more homegrown options:
German: http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=543364
GoogleTranslated to English: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mtb-news.de%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D543364&act=url
Video here: http://videos.mtb-news.de/videos/view/16459

Just something to keep in mind if you need to revert to drop 'bars with STI and Magura HS33s -- it does appear possible.

Lacking all that, something like this --adapted to the HS33 MTB levers -- might get you close if needs be: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4049.msg35279#msg35279

Best,

Dan.

[bottom bracket]

Hello Danneaux, thanks for you comprehensive info, I looked at my set up, and have made small adjustments, which have improved the buzz, BUT as we are about to set off on our summer tour...expedition , further purchases will have to wait,
I only hope I can settle in to the alteration, again I failed to mention WE, are on a Tandem, five months on the road, with full camping kit and trailer will find if I am still able adjust,    or have to seek help on tour, I hope not,
The original brakes on the drop bars on the tandem were VG when they worked, and have lasted with only minor problems for 25 years, so I have never had the ?pleasure of using any other type on the bike  PS we live in Spain and finding small bike factory,s for brazing and painting nigh on impossible, regards Ben

[Danneaux]

Hi Ben!

I understand completely; best to put the upcoming expedition first in your list of priorities.

All best wishes to you on what sounds like a wonderful five months' trip ahead. May you both be safe and have a wonderful time with any small troubles being the kind you can call "adventures" upon your return. Happy travels!

Oh! One last suggestion: If you have a computer mouse pad at hand, you can cut it into inserts for your cycling gloves and address a great deal of hand soreness that way -- a quick, easy, and inexpensive solution if you're still having troubles on the road.

Best,

Dan.

[Pavel]

I'm a bit late, but I had one set of bars that were particularly effective at giving my hands the tingles ... right through my ergon grips (which was unusual) and I solved the situation by taking a cut of inner tube and putting strips of it in three narrow bands in between the clamp and the bar.  It worked!