Richie's World Tour or Go Mad on a Nomad

[richie thornger]

As I appear to be up to my 100th post it seemed a good idea to mention my little jaunt.
My Raven Tour took me from Liverpool to Istanbul last year following in the wheel tracks of Thomas Stevens. He was the first person to ever cycle around the world. He wrote a book about his adventure and diarised every day and place that he stopped. I tried to stay as faithful to the book as possible and visit as many places that he visited. Although he started his journey in San Franciso he actually grew up in the village next to me and went past my house on his route. Unfortunately he wouldn't have been able to wave at anyone as the house was actually built a few years later. This was between 1884 -1886. He completed his adventure on a Old Ordinary aka Penny Farthing. The book is a must read for any cycle tourist to show just what is possible. http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/5136

My original plan had been to do the Liverpool - Istanbul leg as a test and if I enjoyed it to carry on with the rest of the route at a later time. Well I certainly enjoyed it. Although not in the way I had imagined. Having only got back on a bicycle in 2010 for the first time in 25 years I thought it would be the achievement of having cycled across a continent that would be the aspect that pleased me the most. It was however the meeting of ordinary people that made the adventure special and that's what has driven me on to go off on a longer adventure this time. It is also the reason why I'm not going to follow the book any more. Although I had time restraints on the Istanbul trip I still denied myself opportunities that came my way in order to stay true to the book. This time my goal is to just say YES to as many weird and wonderful situations that come my way.

I had originally hoped to fly back to Istanbul to pick up where I left off, unfortunately  I have decided to compromise and get myself to Batman in South Eastern Turkey.
This will hopefully get me to India in time to enjoy as much of the cooler weather as possible as I ride down from Amritsar to Sri Lanka. Batman is a few hundred kms from the Turkey/Iraq border. I'm hoping to cycle across Northern Iraq/Kurdistan into Iran and down to Pakistan then onto India. I've not given what happens after that too much thought except to aim for Papua New Guinea and see where that takes me. After two years I have to come back home and sort out some things and rent out my house again. If I'm still in the mood the idea is to cycle down through the Middle East, down through Africa and hitch a ride to Brazil. I'll travel through South America for a while and head towards Alaska.  I look forward to coming back on here in four years time to see where I ACTUALLY ENDED UP GOING:)

The last six weeks have been rather full of vaccinations and visas. Had I known what they were all going to cost at the start of planning this trip it might have put me off. £450 gets you stabbed in the arm about 20 times and with a bit of luck you are covered for Hep A & B, MMR, Rabies, Tetanus,Diptheria,Polio, Typhoid and Japanese encephalitis. This is the cost on the fantastic British NHS (all except the Jap en) what would it have been if it was all private?. Visas and associated costs for Iran,Pakistan and India are so far past £350 and that's without the visit to Dublin I'm going to have to make to get my Iranian visa sorted. All told I could have bought another Rohloff equipped Thorn on ebay! In between vaccinations and visa I've been selling anything of value on ebay to ease the sting.

As it stands right now I have my visa for Pakistan secured, this takes a bit of careful planning and leaving out a few details of what part of Pakistan you intend to visit. Mentioning Balochistan province or riding a bicycle are not advised. The Pakistan Tourist Board official website has this to say about Balochistan... "Lawless" that's about it. I'm not sure if that is an attraction or a warning My Iranian visa has apparently had the first part completed which means I can now apply and collect the visa. I posted the forms and passport to the Dublin Embassy only to receive them back a week later with a post-it note attached to to the passport saying I must come in person. So a trip to Dublin is now on the cards if only the Embassy would answer the phone or reply to my emails. A little taste of what to come me thinks. The Indian visa is also in the process. If things go according to plan I should be on the plane in a couple of weeks. Needless to say I've not booked my flight just yet.

I'm keeping a bit of a blog at www.batmantorobben.wordpress.com
I have no idea what form that is going to take, hopefully the occasional picture and update on what country I'm in. I will also head back here with any Nomad related incidents. How to service a Rohloff hub in a Himalayan winter with only a yak for company, that sort of thing. So hopefully any nifty out of the way solutions can be passed onto others. I will no doubt also be asking for ideas on how to fix a broken gear cable with only sand and biscuits.

If anyone is planning a similar jaunt and wants any advice then do get in contact. I'll try and help you as much as I can with anything I've picked up so far or in the future. The Thorn forum has been a fantastic resource for me and I hope it grows and grows.
Likewise Lonely Planets Thorn Tree is invaluable for up to date travel info.
See you on the road, Richie

[JimK]

This sounds just fantastic, Richie. I think you have just the right idea, to let go of the schedule and take hold of what presents itself right in front of you! I do dream of such adventures, though nothing quite on the scale you have sketched out! More like a few months than a few years - let's see how I do!

Wishing you many tail winds and dogs with wagging tails!

[Matt2matt2002]

Just before you pedal off, check your left rear pannier.
You may find me hiding there!
Sounds just the kind of trip I plan / hope to do in a year or two.
Can you leave one of those paper trails for me to follow?

Best of luck
Matthew

[Andybg]

A fantastic adventure and definetly one fit for a Nomad. It will be interesting to hear your review in terms of how you would compare the tour and the nomad.

I am sure many of the form members will be keeping an eye on your blog and wishing you well.

Regards

Andy

[jags]

Sure will Andy.
very best of luck Richie your a brave man, would never have the balls to do anything like it.

[richie thornger]

Thanks All. I've just had conformation that I need to travel to Dublin to pick up my Iranian visa.
After the Ryan Air website crashed for the 3rd time I investigated other methods of travel.
I didn't know about the Virgin Rail&Sail deal.
London/Watford to Dublin on the train/ferry £38 each way. Cheaper than those crooks at Ryan. I leave tomorrow.
It means I will spend a lot more time travelling but I can take the bike
The World Tour starts in Dublin.
What part of the world are you in Jags?

[jags]

40mile north of dublin, i think you dock near enough in dublin city.
i don't know dublin at all richie sorry buddy, are you just staying the one night.

[Danneaux]

Richie,

I wish you all the best and godspeed on your wonderful journey ahead. I'll be following your blog updates avidly. If you find yourself in need with limited web access but available email, please feel free to contact me directly if you're in need with of any help with comms or Forum-related activity, and I'll do my best to assist.

We'll surely miss you here, but will be with you as blog readers every roll of your wheel and will be looking forward to any updates at this end as well.

I'm so glad you're taking your time this go-'round. One of my great regrets from my time cycling Europe was my companion's schedule. It meant we had to turn down many offers of dinner, conviviality, overnight accommodations and even joining whole families willing to fete us as Worthy Travelers (astounding and very touching from my perspective). Treasure those moments and the contacts you'll have with store clerks, street workers, the ordinary citizen puttering in a garden who waves as you go by. Each and every such contact is the basis for a golden memory, and something you'll treasure for a lifetime. You've a wonderful perspective on the trip ahead, and I know it will make it all you wish and more.

Take care!

All the best,

Dan.

[richie thornger]

I cycle to Watford Junction (8 miles from my house) for 09:00 and get in at Dublin at 17:15 tomorrow. Do the visa run on Friday ,Depart Saturday 08.20.
I've got a few people from www.warmshowers.com who said they would put me up.
I'm very glad it worked out this way. I get to spend more time in Dublin and get to have the bike with me. Perfect.
I've never cycled in Ireland Jags. What are the drivers like?

[jags]

MENTAL 
Only joking richie cycling has taken off big time in ireland since this recession hit,
so it's basically as good or as bad as anywhere else, you should have a good time in dublin but for God sake dont leave your bike in the city it will get nicked use a  really good lock .

[richie thornger]

Cheers Jags! Nutters the lot of ya.
Cheers Dan, will do. Might need some advice on beating Iranian firewalls first!
Irish/Iranian visa update. Current situation is you have to collect in person and you have to pay €150 euros in the form of an Irish postal order. €3 ish charge for that. Much cheaper than UK.
I saw at least 10 people at the embassy and all were from the UK. Whole process sorted in 30mins. So a successful trip.

Stayed with a lovely French couple through www.Warmshowers.com They had spent nearly 3 months cycling around Ireland on a Tandem for their honeymoon. They have now both got jobs in Dublin and are there for the next year at least. The visa is in my passport. Hooray.

A little trip to West London for my Indian visa made me think I needn't bother going that far East at all. For anyone wanting a flavour of India, just visit Southall!

[jags]

did you have a good time in dublin richie.
best of luck with the big tour keep safe

[richie thornger]

A lovely time in Dublin cheers Jags. Although very few pints of the black stuff as my hosts were not big drinkers. They were lovely though and it was nice to have a clear head for the 6am ride to the ferry.
Well I'm still in the UK. Various things have plotted against me but I'm still going.
All visas are now in place and I somehow managed to get a 12 month multiple entry visa for India. I mentioned bicycle riding and gave a detailed projected plan of every week I was going to be there.
Most of which I have no intention of following. Basically the complete opposite of obtaing my visa for Pakistan.
The day my passport arrived through the letterbox I got a twang in my knee. I'm off for more physio on it today but only time will tell how long it lasts or if it causes a problem at all.
With this in mind I've tweeked the plan a bit. I'm off to the Eastern Med Coast of Turkey for a weeks relaxation before heading off towards the rising sun along the Turkey/Syria border and into Iraq. What a great place to test out wonky body parts!
The flights are booked, the extra luggage space has been reserved and I'm off on Wednesday morning.
I've never felt the need to "pedal" every mile of my journey. I've read many blogs of people who travel in dangerous places. When they feel they need to make the armed convoy go at bike pace so they can complete their goal it has never sat easy with me. It's highly likely that when I arrive at the Iran/Pakistan border they will want me to get in the back of the pickup truck with the machine gun. That's fine with me:) I hope to take my bike on as many different types of transport as possible. But no more planes if I can possibly help it. If you don't see some photos of the Nomad in a bus, on a roof,in a boat, a homemade raft,on a camel, an elephant or a helicopter I will probably feel the journey has not been complete. Having seen a camel in the back of a small 4 door hatchback I know most things are possible.
The upside to the new knee problem is that it has made me be a bit more ruthless on the luggage to get the weight down. I'm going to have a box sent out to me when and if I actually need it.
I used www.pacrelhero.com to get some quotes. A 10kg box measuring 40x32x27cm comes out at the following prices: Sent from UK mainland.

parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   Turkey Mersin   3 day   £42.00   
parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   IRAN   Can't quote   

parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   Pakistan Karachi   4-7 day   £69.41   
parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   Pakistan Quetta   4-7 day   £69.41   
parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   India Amritsar   4-7 day   £69.41   
parcel hero   dhl/ups   10kg   Sri Lanka Colombo4-7 day   £84.41

If anyone knows any better rates, do let me know. (I have not added extra insurance to any of these)
These quotes are based on the value of the parcel not being more than £300 for customs purposes.   

It's changed me from being prepared for all eventualities to being prepared to wait a week for the box to arrive. It's a gamble/compromise I'm willing to make.

[Andre Jute]

May the wind be behind you always, and the road run only downhill. -- Andre Jute

[jags]

Dont forget the tea bags richie  hope the knee gets better real soon you might want to higher you saddle bit at a time might just relive the pain 
best of luck with the tour sounds fantastic just be carefull and have a blast.