What's your Rohloff combo (chainring, cog)?

[mickeg]

I rather think I'll go with the 44/19 combo. It gives me a low gear of just under 17". Of my current bikes, the lowest gear is 22" (which my LBS said would climb the wall of a house  so 17" is considerably lower. If I need anything lower, I will just have to get off and push and I've done that enough times in my life  I can always alter it at a later date if I need to.
I've never used anything like a chainglider before so I guess I won't miss what I've never had (I hope).

My Nomad Mk II has a lowest gear of 16.5 or 21.1 gear inches depending on which chainring I use, I use a larger chainring around home and a smaller one on tour.  My Sherpa has a lowest gear of 19.2 gear inches.  I have never felt like I could climb the wall of a house with either bike.

I do not use a chainglider either, so welcome to the club.

Good luck with your bike.

[rualexander]

I rather think I'll go with the 44/19 combo. It gives me a low gear of just under 17". Of my current bikes, the lowest gear is 22" (which my LBS said would climb the wall of a house  so 17" is considerably lower.

Your LBS are idiots and have obviously never been cycle touring, or lived anywhere with steep hills.
17" should be low enough but 16" or 15" would be better.

[lewis noble]

That combo sounds fine to me, Janet. My Sherpa (a lightweight build, probably v similar in style and feel to RST) also has lowest gear around 16.5 / 17". I think the only times I have used it have been round the inside corner of v steep hairpin bends, but I have certainly welcomed it then!

[julk]

Janet,
if you go without a chainglider then simply make sure you have a large front mudflap to keep spray and muck off the chainring and chain.

I have a brompton and on that I use Squirt on the chain - it is a wax based dry lube which lets you brush the muck off the chain after a ride.
I have been pleasantly surprised by how well it has worked and it saves me cleaning an oily chain.
Julian

[RST Scout]

Janet,
if you go without a chainglider then simply make sure you have a large front mudflap to keep spray and muck off the chainring and chain.

I have a brompton and on that I use Squirt on the chain - it is a wax based dry lube which lets you brush the muck off the chain after a ride.
I have been pleasantly surprised by how well it has worked and it saves me cleaning an oily chain.
Julian

Large mudflaps are a must with me, always have been. Funnily enough I was just checking Google for them last night. Brooks do a nice one (but at a price).
I too have a Brommie. Thanks for the tip re Squirt.
Cheers,
Janet

[Danneaux]

Janet,

I can surely endorse long front mudflaps as a way to minimize drivetrain maintenance. I've had good luck with mine over decades.  Having used a variety of commercial offerings and materials to make my own, I've now settled on these:
http://www.buddyflaps.com/
Depending on how long my front mudguard is, I will sometimes use a "rear" (extra long) BuddyFlap on the front, trimmed a bit for length.

They are long enough and thick/heavy enough to avoid blowback, so prevent the chainring(s) and chain run from direct exposure to splashed-up water and road debris like fine sand and grit. I found my preferred chain lubricant doesn't get washed off as quickly, so lasts longer.

I attach mine to the outside of the 'guard using blind ("pop") rivets and backing plates to avoid creating a mud-catching shelf inside the 'guard.

If heated with a heat gun or hair dryer on high, the PVC material can be molded 'round the mudguard contour for a very tidy fit.

Best,

Dan.

[julk]

Janet,
adding to Dan’s recommendation,
I use a rear Buddyflap and now a Raw http://rawmudflap.uk/ front mudflap.
They are all longer than the excellent (if you want leather) Brooks.
Julian

[Mike Ayling]

I have a brompton and on that I use Squirt on the chain - it is a wax based dry lube which lets you brush the muck off the chain after a ride.

I have been using squirt for a couple of years now.
It is certainly a "clean" lube but I don't know how it would go in wet conditions.

Mike

[martinf]

For me, front mudflaps are the first item to consider for keeping muck off the chain and bottom-bracket area.

I've also noticed that the chain stays a bit cleaner on bikes with rear hub brakes rather than rim brakes (in my case coaster, roller or drum brakes, but I reckon disk brakes should be the same). The worst rim brakes are those mounted near the bottom bracket, which are placed in just the right position to spray muck all over the chain. My old mountain bike had one of these, a U-brake, which probably accounted for the excessive chain wear I experienced on my 2011 tour. 

Bikes with hub gears stay cleaner (chain not so close to the road) and are easier to clean than derailleur gears (fewer sprockets, no derailleurs). If the chainring/sprocket combination is compatible they may also allow a Chainglider, which I reckon is the best solution for keeping the chain clean and reducing maintenance.

[RST Scout]

Liking the Raw mudflaps (as I'm in the UK). I wonder if they would sell me a CTC winged wheel one.
Thanks Guys.

Janet

[DAntrim]

I'll be changing down to a 38T front ring to give 38 / 17 on the mercury, and as I'm also thinking of fitting the chainglider, I did read that the Thorn front rings are to thick. What front ring would fit into the chainglider ?

Carlos

[rualexander]

I'll be changing down to a 38T front ring to give 38 / 17 on the mercury, and as I'm also thinking of fitting the chainglider, I did read that the Thorn front rings are to thick. What front ring would fit into the chainglider ?

Carlos

Surly stainless steel chainrings are a common option for this scenario.

[Matt2matt2002]

I'll be changing down to a 38T front ring to give 38 / 17 on the mercury, and as I'm also thinking of fitting the chainglider, I did read that the Thorn front rings are to thick. What front ring would fit into the chainglider ?

Carlos

Surly stainless steel chainrings are a common option for this scenario.

I use a 38 / 17 on my Raven Tour.
Plus the Chainglider.
I fitted the Surly Stainless Steel 'ring at the same time as the 'glider, back in October 2013.
Also a new KMC X1 chain.

I had turned the chain once since October 2013 and last week replaced it with another KMC X1

It had done 6,720 miles with 2 loaded tours.
Both cogs showed no sign of wear.

(Is there a way of measuring this?)

But the chain guage fitted easily in at 0.75 - so I probably should have replaced it earlier.

I like the 38x17 set up. Before that I had 40 x 16. But of course this is down to personal preferance and the kind of riding one does / loads carried.
Matt

[martinf]

Another vote for the thin Surly stainless steel chainrings for use with a Chainglider. I have these on my two Thorn Ravens.

But on the 3rd bike with a Chainglider I have a thicker TA alloy chainring designed for 1/8" chain. Though not recommended, it works nicely for me. Other people have had issues with thick alloy chainrings and a Chainglider.

I haven't heard of a Chainglider being fitted to a Mercury. There may be an issue with the outboard side of the Chainglider fouling the chainstay - ISTR this problem occurs on some sizes of Raven Sport Tour frames.

I have not yet tried to fit a Chainglider on my own Raven Sport Tour as I have a stock of non-compatible sized TA rings to use up, I am currently running 50Tx19T.

[DAntrim]

Thanks all, surly stainless it is

I haven't heard of a Chainglider being fitted to a Mercury. There may be an issue with the outboard side of the Chainglider fouling the chainstay - ISTR this problem occurs on some sizes of Raven Sport Tour frames.

The mercury is my main commuter and due to the milage I cover,  I'm looking for low maintenance solution, see I can combine the oil / chain change at the same time + bottom bracket if required, which the chainglider may provide if it fits.

Carlos