...now have concerns that SLR batteries are the one thing that may not be chargeable on tour...do you know of any options/possibilities aside from using the Globetrotter?...don't really want to have to purchase another charger/battery setup...
Hi Ivan, and welcome to the Forum!
<nods> Yes, charging DSLR or other camera batteries with a bicycle-based charger is particularly problematic due to the wide range of battery voltages and charging currents involved. I'm not sure how deeply you want to go into finding or building solutions, but I can give a quick summary by saying you definitely don't want to overcharge your batteries, yet -- particularly with Li-ion batteries, there is a certain threshold that has to be exceeded for the battery to accept a charge. At the same time, Li-ion batteries don't really like to be trickle-charged. It can take a lot of research and effort to find a solution in some cases.
In general, when it comes to charging camera batteries, you'll find eBay is your friend, especially when it comes to finding unusual charging solutions from China. I went this route to recharge the Li-ion batteries used in my Panasonic TZ-5 travel zoom camera. What I found looks a bit like a spring-loaded clothes pin that clamps onto the battery. At one end, a pair of spring-loaded pins contact the battery terminals, and the other end terminates in a foldable USB male plug (see attached composite pic). I paid USD$2.99 for mine, postpaid from Hong Kong. It arrived 11 days after ordering.
eBay also sells a number of camera-specific wall/mains chargers that also will work from a 12-volt DC car lighter socket or have a plug-in USB connection. That last option is the one to look for, 'cos it means the charger not only works with your camera's battery, but with USB charging as well. These things are really reasonable...usually around USD$8-12 complete.
There are other options, as well, including modifying an OEM charger, also acquired from eBay at lesser cost and risk so you can preserve your original. In many case, if it is clear the mains voltage is reduced to somewhere around 4.5-5.5VDC, it is possible to splice into the circuit with a USB extension cable, and call it done. In other cases, if the factory adapter's output is close to USB, you can simply buy a spare, along with a USB extension, cut off the unneeded ends, and splice them together (typically only two power wires need connecting; there's a couple little tricks, but it is easy and much of the internal shielding is unneeded for charging applications as the cable won't be carrying data signals). I did something like this to charge my Panasonic electric shaver, mating the OEM adapter end with a standard USB connection. It works wonderfully, and charges at the same rate plugged into the bike as it did when powered by the mains through the supplied adapter. The shaver can now be charged by plugging into a computer
or a mains-powered AC-to-USB DC adapter, about an inch square and taking up little space in my panniers. I still have the original, unaltered mains charger as well.
There's another option as well, if your camera offers in-body battery charging, perhaps via an external power jack under a side panel. If the camera can be powered by a Mains adapter, chances are there's a user-selectable option that will allow the battery to be charged in-camera...and often with USB-levels of voltage and current; it's worth checking your owner's manual. It is generally useless to contact the manufacturer with a query, as they always default to recommending their devices *only* be used with OEM chargers, adapters, and even cords.
A good first step toward rigging a camera battery charger is to check the label on the back of your OEM wall charger and in your owner's manual (either paper or online at the manufacturer's website). These will list the charging voltage as well as the charging current (typically greater than the device's operating current), which is really important, as batteries and devices can be as readily damaged by excessive current as by over-voltage. This is something that is causing increasing confusion among users as manufacturers (Apple leading the pack) include computer-based
and quick-charging mains options. Standard for computer USB is a nominal 5VDC @.5A. Mains-powered USB "quick-chargers" can output as much as 1.0-1.5A, which is fine so long as the device's charging circuitry allows for it. If your device is compatible, quick-charging can take half the time (at twice the current). If your device is incompatible...it may become a brick as something blows internally.
This is why computer-standard USB chargers are probably the safest bet for most people...they're automatically saved from having their devices fried by overvoltage/excessive current. Tout Terrain went this route for a reason, even though devices that *might* charge faster...won't do so as quickly. Better that than burning-out a critical piece of equipment (and many here would argue their MP3 players are um, "Mission Critical"; we all have our priorities). B&M's e-Werk is really a nice little charger when closely examined, and for what it does -- ably provide a user-selectible range of voltages and currents. It also comes with a disclaimer, stating very clearly that B&M are not responsible if you get the settings wrong (and they do a good job of urging owners to exercise due diligence in research their device-specific needs). The thing is...people get stoopid occasionally while on-tour (as in daily life but moreso). They get tired, wet, hungry, frustrated, scared, and distracted. It is usually on just those occasions they plug their exhausted batteries into the e-Werk and get a further surprise by frying them. I've heard from three people in the last 10 days who damaged their phones or GPS units 'cos they forgot and plugged them in with the setting set for higher demand-draw appliances and gadgets. Oops.
Suddenly, waiting a little longer to get things charged looks really attractive if it also comes with a failsafe. Of course, the same thing can be accomplished by setting the e-Werk to standard 5.0VDC @0.5A and just leaving it there, as do the many people I know who use them. For my needs, I can pretty well count on four hours' actual riding time being more than sufficient to charge anything I will have with me. Much less time is required if I don't wait till the battery is completely depleted. I try to charge when there is about 30%-40% left in the battery.
As an aside...I've tried very hard to either buy or convert every one of my carry-along gadgets to USB power or recharging. This means making a purchase decision if the device has an embedded (non-replaceable) battery, or using an intermediary battery charger if the device uses standard AA/AAA batteries. I also try very hard to choose devices that have replaceable batteries so I can simply swap in a spare if I am not going to be riding or need a device working more quickly than a battery can be charged. Eneloop AA/AAA batteries are terrific for this, and I typically carry one spare set for each type that is in-use and don't mind robbing batteries from my radio to power my LED blinky, for example; it means I can carry fewer spares to get me by if charging is not quick enough.
Keep in mind, too, that a high-capacity rechargeable battery might last longer in use...but it will also take longer (sometimes *much* longer) to charge. In my case, I "costed-out" the difference by device. On some, the high-capacity batteries made sense. For others, not so much...or I removed them for top-off more frequently than necessary to keep them up to snuff and so avoid a deep dischage and lengthy recharge-from-flat.
Remember, if your present PowerMonkey Extreme setup allows recharging through one channel at USB-standard rates and voltages, so all the above comments on USB charging should apply to you as well. The other channel supplies
5VDC@2.1A for charging iPads and other tablets. Just keep that difference in mind and use the ports appropriately for what you wish to charge at the moment; some of y above e-Werk cautions might apply.
Congratulations on the SON28 and TTTP2+; I think you'll have good luck, and if you don't, the warranty will come in handy and save you. It's all good!
Best,
Dan. (...who is keeping up with current affairs)
