Hello all,
Having now been the proud and excited owner of my Raven Tour for a bit over a couple of months, I want to acknowledge how much help this forum has been, first in helping make my decision and subsequently in learning about some of the pitfalls into which I might stumble.
One thing I hadn't found enough words on though is the vital importance of maintaining the chain/chain ring/sprocket synchronisation. After only 2200 miles and 2 adjustments for slack I inadvertently put the chain back on, one link out of sync'(following rear wheel removal to fix first puncture) and the resultant creaking from the crank area was most disconcerting and difficult to diagnose. It appears that this is only a problem when both the chainring and sprocket have even numbered teeth and Sheldon Brown explains the reason for this most eloquently.
(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html) Many though, like me, might not "get" the importance of this synchronisation or be expecting it to be relevant so soon, after all, although a new chain stretches very quickly, there are no obvious signs that the chainring/sprocket have started wearing to accommodate this. Now that I realise, I find it easy enough to Identify where to place the chain on the chainring, by noting which type of link is adjacent to the size numbering(on chainring) before removal. I've not yet found a simple way to identify the sprocket teeth although S.B. suggests filing to mark one and always ensuring it goes back adjacent to an internal or external link as before dismantling. I hope this has not been too wordy and that it may help remove the alarm bells of other "newbies" to internal hubs.
