New to Thorn - which bike would be best for me ?

[swayzak]

Hi

I ride a Marin Nail Trail MB 2005, almost exclusively commuting on tarmac - about 16-18 miles per day ... rain,snow,hail etc.

Having now tired of replacing cassettes, chains, freehubs etc. etc. (partly precipitated by the appalling weather this winter), I'm seriously considering a Rohloff build.

I came across Thorn (and also BobJackson) scouring the net.

I've read much of the downloadable docs from Thorn, I'm considering the Sterling (Trekking spec).

The reason for this is that, although I cycle mostly on road, this would give me the option of converting the bike to a more MB spec later if I decide to do some off-roading (e.g. disc brakes etc.).

I don't envisage doing any serious touring (yet)...

It seems like a good compromise & I don't want to make a mistake now and have to purchase another bike later !

I think I would add the disc hub upgrade & black Rohloff, but get rid of the rear rack.

Any further thoughts ?

thanks


swayzak

[julk]

swayzak,
It sounds like the sterling would give you the options you want, why not try contacting Thorn and put your requirements to them to see if they have any other suggestions for bike models to suit you.

Once you have a Thorn Rohloff then you have the expensive components which could be moved to another frame if you ever need to change your riding in the distant future.

Have fun choosing and even more fun riding!
Julian.

[swayzak]

swayzak,
It sounds like the sterling would give you the options you want, why not try contacting Thorn and put your requirements to them to see if they have any other suggestions for bike models to suit you.

Once you have a Thorn Rohloff then you have the expensive components which could be moved to another frame if you ever need to change your riding in the distant future.

Have fun choosing and even more fun riding!
Julian.

Thanks

One thing I'm not sure about is the steel frames. Coming from aluminium, I'm a bit concerned about rusting. Is this something I need to be wary of ?

[john28july]

Rust on a steel framed Thorn? Unheard of! Indeed read carefully all the description of Thorn bikes to make yourself aware what steel has compared to Aluminium (Urgh)
John.

[swayzak]

Rust on a steel framed Thorn? Unheard of! Indeed read carefully all the description of Thorn bikes to make yourself aware what steel has compared to Aluminium (Urgh)
John.

Thanks

Actually now I think maybe the Raven Sport might be more suitable, as I already have a MB for that odd occasion when I might want to go off road.

But I've also kind of got used to front suspension forks - haven't used non-suspension forks for over 10 years.

Could probably live without disc brakes though - how are V-brakes for stopping in wet ? Not as good as hydraulics I suspect..

The blurb on the Sterling would seem to suggest that if I don't want to use fat tyres (which I don't, well not more than 1.75), don't need front suspension (nice, but probably don't as long as steel forks don't mind the occasional tug up kerbs & onto pavements) or disc brakes - then the Sterling is not a good idea & the Sport would be better.

Aaarrrghh ... the options !

I guess the 100 day try out period will definitely be VERY useful here

[julk]

I have no rust on my Thorn after just over 3 years of use in the British climate (rain).

You will cope nicely with rigid forks and 1.5 or 1.75 tyres riding mostly on tarmac.

I find my V-brakes very effective in the wet or dry using Kool-Stop brake pads.

[ians]

Hi

I have a Raven Sport Tour and a Sterling.  They are completely different beasts.  Different handling, different geometries, different frame materials (the RST is Reynolds 853) - for different purposes.  

From your very first post I was going to suggest the Sterling.  But given your latest thoughts - if you want a good all round bike - then look at the Raven Tour.  A bit more forgiving than the Sport Tour - and I believe you can use sus forks if you want to.

I have a Trek Road bike and so am not anti aluminium or carbon - but I prefer steel frames.  I wouldn't worry unduly about a steel frame rusting.

The Rohloff is great.  I commute on the RST and it just runs sweet through all the muck of the winter roads.

It's a tough choice because it's a lot of money and you want to get it right.  At the time I couldn't decide between the Sport Tour and the Tour.  I had a number of email conversations with both Robin Thorn and Andy Blance about what I actually wanted the bike for.    And of course I spent some time here checking people's experiences out.  In the end I made the trip down to Bridegwater - a long way but worth it.  The bike arrived in a box and fitted perfectly straight away.

The Sport Tour is a great bike - but it's not really a general purpose bike.  I've taken it off-road but only when I've had to.  I ended up buying a Sterling frame (and rear wheel) and building my own off-road bike.

If I could have only one I might well choose the Tour.

Have fun.

Ian

[swayzak]

Thanks again all

I think my dilemma is that the Sports Tour seems to be ideal as a commuting workhorse to be flogged to death 5 days a week, day in day out, whatever the weather.

And as I said, I already have a 1/2 decent MB with disc brakes.

But in really crappy weather ie. pouring with rain, I can't help but think I might regret not having the option of disc brakes .... maybe irrational I know. And with the Sports Tour (which sounds otherwise ideal, and looks better than the Tour IMHO) this option is not available as a later upgrade.

However it does seem, in all other respects, better suited to what would be it's main role for me than the Sterling Trekking.

The thing I recall with V-brakes which used to really annoy me was that the would always become skew-wiff after a while ie. one pad would be rubbing & the other miles away from the rim. I could never seem to correct this or set them up properly.

Disc brakes were a revelation - just pop the pads in once every 6 months or so and that was it. Never had to bleed them. Admittedly I had to get the pistons changed once every 18 months or so as I had Hayes Nines - the pistons would eventually come out so far (& not return properly) that the pads would begin to rub on the disc. The Nines are notorious for this. But in the interim periods I actually found them far less maintenace heavy than V-brakes.

If I could be convinced that a set of V-brakes would just WORK and not go out of line - just need pads changing once in a while - then I'd be less concerned about the V vs disc dilemma.

[Rontana]

As I have a sterling that has had both disc brakes and rim brakes on the front, I can honestly say that Rigida Grizzly Carbide rim works just as well as the Delore hydraulic disc setup that the suspension forks were set up with. and its coped fine with the lovely moist weather we have had for the past few months.

As a "do it all" bike the sterling is great, nothing has stopped it yet the only issue I have with mine is that regardless of which forks i have fitted (sus or fixed) or wheel (hub dynamo or not) It isn't possible to ride no handed as the steering starts to wobble side to side violently after a couple of seconds

[ians]

The thing I recall with V-brakes which used to really annoy me was that the would always become skew-wiff after a while ie. one pad would be rubbing & the other miles away from the rim. I could never seem to correct this or set them up properly.

perhaps it's been a long time since you've used V brakes.  They are very easy to centre (small allen key adjuster each side - just wind it in or out).  And of course - get a decent set.  I have Avid Single digit 7s on both the RST and the Sterling with Kool Stop pads.  I'm also using a 3 finger brake levers (Shimano T660) - I found the the usual 2 finger lever a bit of a reach with the Rohloff shifter.

The RST replaced a Super Galaxy so that's the only thing I can compare it with.  One thing I noticed straight away - hills were much easier with the RST - the linear nature of the gear system made climbing much smoother and quicker - I was never any good at changing front and rear at the same time.

Do talk to the guys at SJS.


Ian

[swayzak]

Thanks Ian

I have broken the ice with Lisa - am waiting to get my Marin back from bike shop to do all the necessary measurements.

Then I'll call them again.

[sbseven]

If I could be convinced that a set of V-brakes would just WORK and not go out of line - just need pads changing once in a while - then I'd be less concerned about the V vs disc dilemma.

My V-Brakes just work, although they are XTR. They also have good stopping power in the wet (on CSS rims anyway).

Shaun

[swayzak]

My V-Brakes just work, although they are XTR. They also have good stopping power in the wet (on CSS rims anyway).

Shaun

OK - looks like a worthwhile upgrade on the basic spec then.

[freddered]

I swapped my Shimano XT VBrakes for Avid Ultimate.  The cable run to the rear makes a positive improvement as does the quality of the bearings.  Expensive but worth it in my opinion.

After much experimentation I now use V-Brake pads from Asda.  They are £2 a pair and work fine.  Lateral (wheel-rub) adjustment is required every few months possibly but it takes 10 seconds with a small allen key.

I prefer V-Brakes because they are (a) powerful enough (b) ubiquitous in even small cycle shops anywhere in the world.
I suppose disc brakes don't wear out the wheel rim but you could specify Carbide rims (unfortunately may mean expensive brake blocks, not sure how long Asda blocks would last)

I think the Sport Tour is what most people need.  I have the Tour but it may be a bit heavy for general commuting needs.

I would never want suspension forks on a road-biased bike, steel forks are forgiving enough, especially on 1.5" tyres and above.  I use Schwalbe Marathons 1.5", the basic £15 variety, they are superb.

Good luck, hope the 100 days goes well (give it the full 100 days, or you may not get to fully appreciate the Rohloff.  It's worth it)