Author Topic: Brooks saddle  (Read 2471 times)

in4

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2026, 10:28:55 AM »
Brilliant, Andre. Have you thought of writing as a career!?  🤣

Andre Jute

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2026, 09:46:11 PM »

hendrich

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2026, 02:31:59 PM »
If you're worried about the appearance of your clearly neglected saddle, buy some neat foot oil from your local saddlery (more £$%^&* horses), pour the contents of the can into a baking dish or a bowl large enough to take the saddle and soak first the top and then bottom in the neat foot oil, 10-20 minutes per side.

This could be useful some day. When you say top/bottom, does that mean you are first putting the whole top half of the saddle in oil and therefore also soaking the underside? After both sides are done, the entire saddle has been submerged in oil. After that, do you wipe off excess oil... and then let dry for a few days?
Thanks, Mike

edit, our saddles have always received TLC, just thought this soaking might be good to know about.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2026, 02:36:38 PM by hendrich »

jul

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2026, 01:52:45 PM »
After to have tighten little the s
crew, the leather tor..



[

Is it normal ?
« Last Edit: October 14, 2026, 01:57:06 PM by jul »

Andre Jute

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2026, 07:57:38 PM »
If you're worried about the appearance of your clearly neglected saddle, buy some neat foot oil from your local saddlery (more £$%^&* horses), pour the contents of the can into a baking dish or a bowl large enough to take the saddle and soak first the top and then bottom in the neat foot oil, 10-20 minutes per side.

This could be useful some day. When you say top/bottom, does that mean you are first putting the whole top half of the saddle in oil and therefore also soaking the underside? After both sides are done, the entire saddle has been submerged in oil. After that, do you wipe off excess oil... and then let dry for a few days?
Thanks, Mike

edit, our saddles have always received TLC, just thought this soaking might be good to know about.

Apologies for the delayed reply, Mike; I somehow never saw your post.

I used a large shallow baking tray because my B72 is the third largest of all the Brooks saddles and that tray was the only one it would fit. So my saddle wasn't completely covered by the liter of neat foot I bought. I turned the saddle to get complete coverage, including the raw edges of the leather.

Even if your saddle is smaller and you have a deep enough dish, and enough neat foot oil to cover the saddle totally, some part will still touch the bottom of the dish, so give it ten minutes, turn the saddle and put it back in the neat foot oil for another ten minutes to ensure even coverage. Let dry for 24 hours, then polish only the top, not the underside or the cut edges.

Soak it in neat foot oil once, then never again.

Once a year, or perhaps twice a year if your bike is often exposed to the elements, wipe only the top with a thin layer of Proofide* or neat foot on a cloth, let stand overnight, and polish with a clean soft cloth.

*Americans have a similar leather wax with a good reputation from vintage times forward, the name of which now escapes me. I used four small tins to rejuvenate the leather seats of a barn find Citroen DS until the stitcher of choice could make me new covers, and sold my spot on his waiting list to an impatient collector because the seats were pretty good after polishing and, as a matter of fact, at a show my car got a highly-commended with the patina worth a special mention, while his car was condemned for being over-restored!

martinf

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #20 on: Today at 07:57:19 AM »
After to have tighten little the s
crew, the leather tor..

Is it normal ?

No. The rivets are very rusty, it looks like that saddle has been left outside in the rain for a long time.

I still have the first Brooks B17 saddle I bought in 1977. I mistreated that saddle by using too much neatsfoot oil too often, so it got soft and I stretched it more than I should have. The second photo shows where the rivets at the front have left a gap, the third photo shows how much I tightened the adjustment nut.

And the leather has worn so much that it is hardly possible to see the Brooks logo stamped on the side. But it is still rideable after 46600 kms, though not so comfortable as my other Brooks saddles.

It has been ridden "a lot" in the rain, but I nearly always use a cover (often just a plastic bag) when I leave the bike outside in rain, even for short stops. And as I used to use a traditional cycling cape, it rarely got completely soaked while riding. When it did get really wet I nearly always (not always possible on a long tour) made sure it dried out properly before storing the bike, to the extent that I (very occasionally) took it off the bike and brought it into the house to dry. 

My other Brooks saddles have been treated differently. I use a wax designed for care of leather boots (Nikwax or similar) on the saddle top about once every three months, depending on use. Plus very occasionally on the underside.

I still use neatsfoot oil bought from a horse accessories place, it probably has some kind of fungicide as an additif. Just a small amount on a rag to wipe saddles on the bikes that aren't getting used much in winter (mainly my wife's bikes), this is to stop or cure mould forming. 

The B66 Champion I bought in 1987-1988 is in better shape than my first Brooks saddle, despite having been ridden for over 70000 kms.
« Last Edit: Today at 08:30:09 AM by martinf »

jul

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #21 on: Today at 11:55:31 AM »
My rivet are rusty because i stored my bike in a garage who sometimes there is a humid atmosphere .. and probably also  the contact with my Cotton blanket  ::)

martinf

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Re: Brooks saddle
« Reply #22 on: Today at 05:50:09 PM »
My rivet are rusty because i stored my bike in a garage who sometimes there is a humid atmosphere .. and probably also  the contact with my Cotton blanket  ::)

From 1980 to 2021 my garage was quite humide, with condensation in winter dripping down from the (thin) corrugated roof. So I tried to park all the bikes in places where the drips didn't fall on them.

Just before the 2021 COVID lockdown I hired a van and bought the material necessary to insulate the inside walls of the garage and under the roof. It took quite a lot of time and effort to do the work, but the garage is much drier in winter now. It's better for leather bike saddles, but also for steel tools and some of the other stuff I keep in the garage. Even so, leather and tools kept in my garage still need a certain amount of maintenance, but not so often since 2021.