Author Topic: Pump placement  (Read 965 times)

PH

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #15 on: October 29, 2024, 11:24:07 AM »
I like my Lezyne pumps except when they unscrew the valve core. 
I used to have a screw on floor pump that had the same issue, tightening the core reduced it, changing to tubes without a removeable core eliminated it, Michelin do some, or did, it's at least a decade since I had that pump.
For tightening - by coincidence or design, the jaws of a chain tool fit the core, there's no need for the specific tool in your kit, at home, any sort of thin pliers will do.

Andre Jute

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2024, 01:35:51 PM »
Depending on how long your pump is, and what you use the bike for, an unobtrusive location for the pump is under a longitudinal rail of the rack. Depending on how long your rack is, you might even be able to fit one of the shorter Zefal HPX pumps; they come in four lengths, the longer the more desirable but even the shortest one is a powerhouse compared to most mini-pumps -- there's no substitute for cubic inches of air. This works on tour if your panniers clip onto the lower rails of the rack, and your rack top bag doesn't droop over the edges of the rack, so you can get the pump out.

Here is a vertical mounting to the leg of a rack on one of my bikes.

This doesn't work too well if you use panniers, but I mostly use wire mesh pannier baskets (made by the Dutch Basel company), which leave access to the pump if not free at least visible so you don't scratch your hands extracting it. The pump is an SKS.

Below is my present pump attachment solution. The bottle is a Nathan which comes with rubber diaper, essential for preventing rattles; it's other convenience is that you sip from the top with the bottle upright instead of having to tilt it above your head.


Some Topeak pumps come with a handy bracket which fits under the bottle cage anywhere your bike has sockets, with the pump mounting in the angle of the tube and the cage, instantly accessible. Topeak also sells the bracket separately.


The higher black band is a velcro strap I fitted for additional security, with the end of the velcro hidden under the water bottle: without undoing the velcro all the way, the pump doesn't come out of the clip. The Topeak Peak DX in the clip was the best of the mini pumps by rigorous professional engineering test roundabout fifteen years ago.

Good luck with finding a solution that works for you.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2024, 01:39:40 PM by Andre Jute »

geocycle

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #17 on: October 29, 2024, 07:12:07 PM »
I'm quite tempted by those USB rechargeable elec compressor pumps, I've seen one in use a coupler of times and been impressed.  I would want to carry it without a back up, but that could be the smallest of mini pumps.  For those not familiar, this sort of thing
https://www.cyclinguk.org/cycle-magazine/review-fumpa-and-minifumpa-battery-pumps

I have the Fumpa nano.  It’s about the size of a matchbox and weighs very little.  It charges very quickly and will inflate a touring tyre from flat to rideable. I’ve used it a couple of times and appreciated not having the upper body work out having a dodgy shoulder.  I’d not rely completely on it as the capacity is a bit limited so for me it is a back up to the mini pump. I suppose if you had a power bank with you on tour it might be a reasonable risk.  A bonus is the loud farting noise it makes!
 

WorldTourer

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #18 on: October 29, 2024, 07:52:55 PM »
Never knew before now that people are using little USB pumps for tires. When I cycled Central Asia this summer, I did meet a few people with those pumps, but they were using them for their sleeping mats, since the ThermaRest NeoAir Xlite that is currently the most popular bikepacking mat is not self-inflating.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2024, 10:25:51 PM by WorldTourer »

mickeg

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2024, 11:07:13 AM »
I average one puncture a year, if I was going to rely an an electric pump I would probably find out that the battery died months before I needed it.

The only time I get really perturbed with how long it takes to inflate tires with a small pump are when I fly somewhere with my Nomad Mk II.  I have to deflate the 57mm wide tires to fit the bike in the S&S case.  And pumping up two 57mm wide tires with a small pump takes some time and my arms are not used to that much work.

So, I will just continue to put up with the inconvenience of muscle powered pumps.  That said, I might re-assess the electrics before my next trip with the Nomad Mk II.

The Lezyne Micro Floor Drive, that comes in a high pressure and a high volume version.  I have both, use the high volume on my Nomad Mk II for tours, high pressure for my 37mm tires on my light touring bike.  But around home use a Toppeak Road Morph G instead.

My last tour, I was a bit worried about theft of my pump on the frame.  I carried a very tiny Zefal that would probably take eight times as long to pump up a tire as an emergency backup.  But never needed it, no theft occurred.  Once I topped up my tires during the two week trip, I don't need an electric for that.

I generally try to avoid buying things that have a USB rechargeable non-replaceable battery.  If it took AA batteries, I would be more interested.

JohnR

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #20 on: October 30, 2024, 02:12:48 PM »
I once had a valve core unscrew when I was removing a Lezne pump hose. Since then each of my bikes has one of these fitted on one of the wheels to make it more convenient for checking if the cores are tight https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203317910489 .

PH

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #21 on: October 30, 2024, 03:03:48 PM »
Never knew before now that people are using little USB pumps for tires.
Might not have been the same pumps, I have one for my mat, it'll pump a lot of air but not at a high enough pressure for a tyre, it was also about 20% of the price.  I suspect if you tried to use a tyre pump on a mat it would half inflate it very quickly and flatten the battery doing so. 

PH

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #22 on: October 30, 2024, 03:19:56 PM »
So, I will just continue to put up with the inconvenience of muscle powered pumps. 
Last year I managed 12 punctures, thankfully just the one so far this year, but on much reduced mileage.  Even last year I didn't consider the pumping bit of the job any great inconvenience.  So, although interested in gadgets I can't see me getting a elec tyre pump anytime soon. If I was still commuting, I'd be more likely to consider it. On my urban riding, I only carry a seal and inflate aerosol (Untested)
Quote
I generally try to avoid buying things that have a USB rechargeable non-replaceable battery.  If it took AA batteries, I would be more interested.
Lithium batteries have become much better at managing their discharge, I've seen figures of 2% a month for three, then 1% a month after, assuming 100% to start with.  I recently found a small head torch that had been lost for over a year (In the wheelbuilding toolbox obviously ::)) I thought it would be flat, but it ran on high beam for an hour, it only runs for two from fully charged.

WorldTourer

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #23 on: October 30, 2024, 05:38:15 PM »
I average one puncture a year, if I was going to rely an an electric pump I would probably find
I generally try to avoid buying things that have a USB rechargeable non-replaceable battery.  If it took AA batteries, I would be more interested.

Tourers today are usually packing USB powerbanks with large capacities. In my interaction with fellow cyclists on routes like the Baja Divide or the Pamirs, where charging opportunities are rare and possibly expensive, two 24,000 mAh powerbanks was a popular solution for being able to charge phones, GPS units, Bluetooth speakers, etc. for well over a week. Therefore, one’s electric pump or other USB devices can be charged from the powerbank. I wonder if any air pumps can draw sufficient power from the USB input directly without having to fill the internal battery first.

Andyb1

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #24 on: October 30, 2024, 05:46:27 PM »
This thread reminded me to do a little job that I had forgotten about - I just cut off the upper pump bracket from the frame of my Sherpa.  I always worried that it was a nice little hook that might snag on something. When I first had the bike I could not find a pump of the correct length to fit and anyway I prefer carrying a pump safely hidden away in a bag.  I seem to remember destroying a pump in the distant past when it unclipped itself from the frame.

mickeg

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #25 on: October 31, 2024, 01:42:07 PM »
If you decide to buy a large powerbank for touring, I do not know if this is a global restriction or only USA.  But in USA, powerbanks larger than 100 watt hour capacity are banned from passenger aircraft.

The 24 amp hour capacity mentioned above should be acceptable but that would be close to the upper limit.  That said, it is rare to see ones for sale over 100 watt hours.

For touring I have been using a 44 watt hour capacity one for the past half decade.  I keep it charged with my dynohub and Cycle2Charge charger.  But I am quite frugal with my power usage, phone off unless I am using it, etc.

I recently bought a Anker powerbank that is 20 amp hour rated, 72 watt hours.

mickeg

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Re: Pump placement
« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2024, 02:07:53 PM »
I once had a valve core unscrew when I was removing a Lezne pump hose. Since then each of my bikes has one of these fitted on one of the wheels to make it more convenient for checking if the cores are tight https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203317910489 .

I will be ordering some of those within a few days.  Thanks.  Brilliant idea.

I have a Shrader to Presta adapter on my rear wheel with a Shrader cap on it on most of my bikes.  Now I know what will go on the front wheel for valve cap.