Author Topic: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns  (Read 688 times)

in4

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Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« on: January 20, 2024, 11:07:35 am »
My much loved MK1 Nomad had a drain point/screw under the BB. I wondered why this feature had been discontinued and was wondering if it might also have been an access point to put some grease in.
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Danneaux

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Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2024, 03:28:10 pm »
The original Nomad series had a derailleur drivetrain. The later series with Rohloff drivetrains were equipped with eccentric bottom brackets. It is easy enough to slide the eccentric to one side - or out -- to grease it for easy rotation during adjustment/to prevent galvanic corrosion, so a drain or grease port is not as critical.

The primary reason stated in early Thorn literature for the ports (when included) was for water drainage.

Older bicycles -- especially ones of British make, in my experience -- were often equipped with grease ports (often Zerk-style fittings, though sometimes cap ports) that allowed for greasing or oiling the bottom bracket in-situ. This required an "open"/unshielded/unsleeved bottom bracket so lube introduced through the port could reach the bearings. Modern bottom square-taper bottom brackets are now almost always sealed cartridge units with shielded bearings. In my experience, subsequent teardowns of the grease port BBs showed pretty uneven grease or oil distribution. The bearing nearest the port got the lion's share of lubrication, the other notsomuch.

Most water collecting in a bottom bracket enters from above in normal use (submersion, say when crossing a stream, is another matter!). Mindful of that, be sure to use grease to make a seal around the top of the seatpost. I also employ some tapered silicone rings that make a small "roof" over the top of the seat tube to prevent water entry. A section of innertube rolled over the split tightening kerf helps prevent water entry also.

Particularly on bikes with threadless headsets, it is also helpful to apply a small piece of electrical tape over the vent hole at the head tube/downtube junction to prevent water entering along the steerer from running down the downtube toward the BB, where it could collect and cause rust.

Best, Dan.

mickeg

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Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2024, 05:56:28 pm »
This forum has occasionally had a discussion on rustproofing the internal parts of a frame.

I am in USA, there is a product here called frame saver, it is petroleum based in a spray can that can be used to coat the insides of tubing.  I am not sure what the equivalent is in the UK.  But some of the older threads on that topic may have some info on that.

On my Nomad Mk II, I removed the tape in the headtube to apply frame saver in the top tube and downtube.  Then replaced the tape.

If you have the older type of seat post that has an open tube on the top, that is another way for water to get in, especially if you lack a mudguard on the rear wheel.

A friend of mine that volunteers time at a bike charity has commented that water can get in water bottle cage bolt fittings from capillary action. 

I recall on this forum that someone had rust accumulate in the bottom of the downtube just above the S&S coupler on a Mk II Nomad.  Not sure if it got in from the water bottle cage bolt above the coupler or where, but if you have S&S couplers, that could be something to be concerned about.  My couplers have discs welded into the end of the tube, so if any water got into the downtube or sloping top tube above the coupler, it can't drain out.  That makes the tape in the head tube very important.

Andyb1

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Re: Drain/regrease point on older Thorns
« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2024, 11:29:35 am »
ACF50 is a good anti corrosive liquid, available in UK and probably US.

The Sherpa I recently bought was very clean and almost immediately needed a new BB and lower head bearing…..there was water in the frame.  I would guess it had been jet washed prior to sale, something I personally would never do to a bike.

Another place I have found water is inside tyres if an innertube with a presta valve is fitted in a hole in the rim sized for a schrader valve.  The solution for me was to fit a little plastic collar around the presta valve stem - available on ebay.
« Last Edit: January 22, 2024, 11:32:27 am by Andyb1 »