Outer Hebrides and North Coast 500. Looking for advice.

[RonS]

The tickets are bought. The trip is a go!

After arriving in Inverness on nickel-and-dime-air AKA British Airways, my tour will start on the morning of September 3.

I’ll head on down to Oban and meet up with my daughter, and we’ll head for the Hebrides on the 5th or 6th. We will have 7 days to explore the islands (and distilleries) before we take the ferry to Ullapool. She’ll make her way back home, and I’ll ride to Garve and then either keep riding to Achnasheen, or hop a train to Lochcarron. I then will have until the 26th to check out the north coast. As per your suggestions, I’ve decided to skip John o’Groats. Depending on how I’m doing time wise, I’ll turn south at Tongue, Bettyhill, or Melvich.

I’ve used the Offcomers guide to the Hebridean Way, and the Cicerone guide to the NC 500 to plan my overnight stops, mostly at campgrounds and the Gatliff Trust hostels. There seem to be lots of hostels to stay at should the weather turn foul.

Suggestions for points of interest are welcome. Already on the list are, weather permitting: Cape Wrath, Alt Cranaidh waterfall, Rock stop/geopark, and Smoo cave. And pie from Lochinver Larder

[Matt2matt2002]

Best of luck with your trip.
I've just booked a train from my home near Aberdeen to Inverness on Monday.
I'll cycle across to Skye and then plan to visit Eigg via Mallaig.
Weather looking wet so should be fun in my 2 man MSR.
I' ll report back with anything interesting for your own tour.

Cheers

Matt

[PH]

Have a great tour, whatever choices you make you'll not go wrong, lovely part of the planet to cycle.  Good luck with Cape Wrath, I've had two failed attempts, weather and military, but the ride out is worthwhile in itself.

I’ll turn south at Tongue, Bettyhill, or Melvich

I don't know the route from Melvich, but of the other two, the route from Bettyhill to Altnaharra is one on the nicest roads I've ever cycled on.  Those two converge at Altnaharra, don't be tempted to stop at the hotel there, press on to the Crask Inn which is apparently the most remote Inn in the UK.  It's changed hands since I was there, it was possible to camp in the garden, I don't know if it still is. 
If it were me (I wish it was!) and time was pressing, I'd be more inclined to cut a bit off the bottom, by getting the train, rather than cutting bits of the North coast.  It's not that the route south of Lairg isn't good, just not as good as what you might have skipped to do it.
Looking forward to the photos and stories.

[Matt2matt2002]

Those two converge at Altnaharra, don't be tempted to stop at the hotel there, press on to the Crask Inn which is apparently the most remote Inn in the UK.  It's changed hands since I was there, it was possible to camp in the garden, I don't know if it still is.

Yes, I was offered a spot to camp in the garden. It was a kind offer but I couldn't see the end of the garden due to the swarming midges. So pushed on South to Lairg.
New owners nowadays. I believe religious folks who hold Sunday services in the bar.

Matt

[RonS]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I'm getting excited. Four weeks from today and I'm off.

Matt, I hope the weather improves for you. It looks like the ferry trip to Eigg will take longer than the actual bike ride around it.

[Matt2matt2002]

Eigg...
I've had to pull the plug on that one today.
The groin injury is still with me and the weather coming in from the Atlantic looks bad for a week.
Fingers crossed for the following week.

Keep us updated on your trip.

Matt

[RonS]

The groin injury is still with me and the weather coming in from the Atlantic looks bad for a week.
Fingers crossed for the following week.

Oh, no! I hope you recover soon. Don't want you to miss out on "Time to try Thai ii"

Re Crask Inn. According to the Cicerone guidebook, it was gifted by the previous owners to the Scottish Episcopal church

[Matt2matt2002]

That sounds correct. Still open as an inn.
I hear nothing but good about the place.
Will you be passing by?
Matt

[PH]

Eigg...
I've had to pull the plug on that one today.
Matt

Sorry to hear that Matt, hope you recover soon.

[in4]

The tickets are bought. The trip is a go!

After arriving in Inverness on nickel-and-dime-air AKA British Airways, my tour will start on the morning of September 3.

I’ll head on down to Oban and meet up with my daughter, and we’ll head for the Hebrides on the 5th or 6th. We will have 7 days to explore the islands (and distilleries) before we take the ferry to Ullapool. She’ll make her way back home, and I’ll ride to Garve and then either keep riding to Achnasheen, or hop a train to Lochcarron. I then will have until the 26th to check out the north coast. As per your suggestions, I’ve decided to skip John o’Groats. Depending on how I’m doing time wise, I’ll turn south at Tongue, Bettyhill, or Melvich.

I’ve used the Offcomers guide to the Hebridean Way, and the Cicerone guide to the NC 500 to plan my overnight stops, mostly at campgrounds and the Gatliff Trust hostels. There seem to be lots of hostels to stay at should the weather turn foul.

Suggestions for points of interest are welcome. Already on the list are, weather permitting: Cape Wrath, Alt Cranaidh waterfall, Rock stop/geopark, and Smoo cave. And pie from Lochinver Larder

1. Most people cycle The Hebridean Way South to North ( prevailing winds ) and get the ferry from Oban to Castlebay. Me being a contrary cove did it from Stornaway; catching the ferry from Ullapool ( good campsite there) There's a beast of a hill near Tarbert.
2. The road from Tongue to Altnaharra is a great ride. An upgraded logging route that follows a river.
3. Agreed re stopping at The Altnaharra Hotel. I pushed on to Lairg. It was too cold to hang about. I stayed at The Lairg Highland Hotel. Lovely place, staff and they have a garage for bikes, around the back. The Pier Cafe is excellent.
4. The ride from Lairg to Ullapool is fabulous fun.
5. The train services from Thurso and Kyle are great for bikes but as it will be high season you'll need to book. I travelled low season on both services but still got a legendary glower from the train manager person as I hjust turned up.

Regardless I'm sure you'll have great fun. Some of the beaches are profoudly beautiful and a few brought a tear to my eye.

https://www.thebeachguide.co.uk/north-scotland/hebrides/top-10-beaches

[RonS]

That sounds correct. Still open as an inn.
I hear nothing but good about the place.
Will you be passing by?

If all goes according to plan, yes

1. Most people cycle The Hebridean Way South to North ( prevailing winds ) and get the ferry from Oban to Castlebay. Me being a contrary cove did it from Stornaway; catching the ferry from Ullapool ( good campsite there) There's a beast of a hill near Tarbert.
2. The road from Tongue to Altnaharra is a great ride. An upgraded logging route that follows a river.
3. Agreed re stopping at The Altnaharra Hotel. I pushed on to Lairg. It was too cold to hang about. I stayed at The Lairg Highland Hotel. Lovely place, staff and they have a garage for bikes, around the back. The Pier Cafe is excellent.
4. The ride from Lairg to Ullapool is fabulous fun.
5. The train services from Thurso and Kyle are great for bikes but as it will be high season you'll need to book. I travelled low season on both services but still got a legendary glower from the train manager person as I hjust turned up.

If the wind is blowing when I'm there like it has been the last few days ( 50-80 km/h from S ) I may not have to pedal! Pitching the tent is going to be another matter, though.

If I wind up taking longer than planned, it's good knowing I can get a train in Thurso or Lairg. Also, depending on how the jet lag affects me, I see there is a CityLink bus from Inverness to Fort William.

Got the new B17 installed and have ridden about 200km. Comfortable from the get go. Is it a case of once your rear has seen one B17, it's seen them all?

Thanks for the tips.

[Matt2matt2002]

Re the City link bus.
I tried to take it a few years ago and the driver insisted my bike was wrapped or boxed.
This was a big change from Stagecoach, who I had used from Aberdeen to Inverness.
The driver didn't look like he was open to discussion about the issue so I made other arrangements. I cycled!

Hopefully you won't need that bus, or have a more accommodating driver.

Good luck with the trip.

Matt

[RonS]

Thanks for the heads up, Matt.
The bus to Fort William is only if the jet lag knocks me out and I don't think I can ride the distance before the ferry departure.
The CityLink website says that they provide the bike covers on all routes. Most routes have only one bike spot, but Inverness to Fort William and Inverness to Ullapool have two.

[RonS]

My last post went “poof” so I’ll do another. As I told Dan in my PM, it’s a forum post, not my memoirs. I’ll get over it. 

Greetings from the Crask Inn! I have been very fortunate with the Scottish weather, only 1 1/2 hours of pouring rain in 3 weeks. I have had 10 or more days of blue sky and temperatures near 20. The wind has been my biggest enemy, with probably 2 out of 3 days being in my face. My luck appears to be ending. Cold and rain are on the way, so I will return to Inverness by Tuesday, and relax until my flight.

Today I left Tongue, with a cold, strong headwind. I was running on empty when I arrived at the Crask Inn. Time for a spot of lunch. While settling the tab, I asked Shane, the proprietor, where he was from, as he had a North American accent. “Michigan” was the reply. “How did you wind up here” I ask. “I was the only Episcopal minister (the inn is owned by the church, gifted by the previous owner) qualified as a bartender who was willing to move here” (!!)
 We chatted for quite awhile, and the conversation came around to how hotels jack up rates sometimes “just because”. For example, where I have booked in Inverness for £90 on Thursday, wants £229 on Wednesday. “We don’t do that here” Shane says. “The price is always the same”
“And how much would that be?” I ask. “£89, including dinner and breakfast. Let’s see. I can ride to Lairg and get a tent pitch for about £15, then buy supper for at least £20 ( if I’m quick enough as the only place open today closes at 6). Throw in £10 for breakfast. It’s a no brainer for me. I’m staying here, in a warm bed.

Now, about the Crask Inn. Shane and his wife Mack ( yes, like Mack the knife) are two of the most friendly, gracious hosts you will ever meet. And Shane is an awesome chef. Supper was one of the best of the trip. If you ride by here, stop in and say hello. You will not be disappointed.

[in4]

That sounds like a great call. I rode the same route last year the weather was beastly. It’s so exposed but probably a great place for wind turbines. I carried on riding to Lairg and was looked after by the good folk at The Lairg Highland Hotel. I paid around £70 for B&B but it was during low season. It’s £135 per night atm. The industry call that dynamic pricing. I’d call it something else!

I headed west to Ullapool from here. That was a fantastic ride and the weather was much kinder too.

Enjoy Inverness and thanks for sharing your journey.