Wire slightly frade

[Matt2matt2002]

Hi folks.
Not sure how or where this happened.
One strand of the gear change cable has started to fray.
In the photo it's the one on the left.
Cables both move smoothly.
Neither are under any tension. Loose as they should be.
Before my Thailand tour I released both clips. I think it might have been there then.
Nearly 1,800 miles incident free.
Pretty sure it's not getting worse however best not to leave it like this.

Before a change of cables ( I have a spare set ), is there a temporary fix?
Solder?
Gorilla tape?

Thoughts welcome

Best
Matt

[geocycle]

Obviously it needs to be changed but it could last a bit longer ok. If you want to stop it unraveling more then maybe a bit of superglue, but the strength has already reduced. When you remove the cable use the time to service the brake pivot that is hard to access behind the cable.

[Matt2matt2002]

Thanks.
Super glue it is.
But I take your point; re new sooner rather than later.
And good advice about the brake pivot/ assembly.

Many thanks

Matt

[PH]

I don't disagree with anything geocycle has suggested, but as an alternative suggestions:
How much bend is there in the outer cable at the front?  If that could shortened by a couple of cm, you could cut the same amount off the inner and be rid of the frayed part.

[Andre Jute]

On the bike of a constant near and far tourer, probably best to replace whatever needs replacing sooner rather than later.

It is however also good to remember that the Rohloff HGB is operated by two pull-pull cables. The cables do no pushing, so their stiffness in compression is irrelevant. All the stress is in tension.

Whatever you decide to do, you have to fix the loose end immediately, even if only with a bit of electrical tape, though Geocycle's tip of superglue is tidier. The danger is that some more of the wire unwinds and starts slashing at your bike's paintwork, plastic mudguards, and any luggage you're carrying.

[mickeg]

Only one strand?

I do not know how many strands there are in a cable, but if it is 19 or some other big number, your cable is only 5 or 6 percent weaker.

I would wrap tape around it so it can't unwind further.  Then fix it when you get home.

[Matt2matt2002]

I don't disagree with anything geocycle has suggested, but as an alternative suggestions:
How much bend is there in the outer cable at the front?  If that could shortened by a couple of cm, you could cut the same amount off the inner and be rid of the frayed part.

That's an interesting suggestion.
I'll take a look tomorrow.
Many thanks
Matt

[Matt2matt2002]

Only one strand?

I do not know how many strands there are in a cable, but if it is 19 or some other big number, your cable is only 5 or 6 percent weaker.

I would wrap tape around it so it can't unwind further.  Then fix it when you get home.

Thanks Mick.
I am home now. I'll be making a temporary repair tomorrow. Super glue or tape.
Many thanks
Matt

[mickeg]

I don't disagree with anything geocycle has suggested, but as an alternative suggestions:
How much bend is there in the outer cable at the front?  If that could shortened by a couple of cm, you could cut the same amount off the inner and be rid of the frayed part.

That's an interesting suggestion.
I'll take a look tomorrow.
Many thanks
Matt

I always want my outer housing on my Rohloff to be the same length on both.  That way, both of my inner cables are the same length, and I can carry one instead of a pair on a tour.

[PH]

I don't disagree with anything geocycle has suggested, but as an alternative suggestions:
How much bend is there in the outer cable at the front?  If that could shortened by a couple of cm, you could cut the same amount off the inner and be rid of the frayed part.

That's an interesting suggestion.
I'll take a look tomorrow.
Many thanks
Matt

I always want my outer housing on my Rohloff to be the same length on both.  That way, both of my inner cables are the same length, and I can carry one instead of a pair on a tour.

fair point, I haven't taken the standard cables on tour with me, though having had a bayonet connector break I do carry a cable repair kit.
It did make me think - depending how far out Matt's adjusters are, it might be possible to screw that one in far enough to remove the frayed bit of cable.

[martinf]

Except on tour, I wouldn't bother with a temporary fix.

I'd either replace both inner cables (if one has started fraying, the other is probably worth replacing preemptively), maybe even the housings as well.

[mickeg]

...
I always want my outer housing on my Rohloff to be the same length on both.  That way, both of my inner cables are the same length, and I can carry one instead of a pair on a tour.

fair point, I haven't taken the standard cables on tour with me, though having had a bayonet connector break I do carry a cable repair kit.
...

I have only used the EX box on my Nomad Mk II, I keep forgetting that some Rohloffs use a different method of cabling.  Thus, I am ignorant of cable replacement and Rohloff bayonet connectors on the internal gear cable mechanism hubs.

I carry one pre-cut cable on tours so that I do not need to carry a cable cutter on a tour.

[geocycle]

The main issue I have with the internal gear cable mechanism is that threading the bayonet connector can be a faff. It really helps to have sharp cable cutters and I sometimes remember to put superglue on the cut cable before I try and push it through.  Another tip is to take the male connector apart, thread it into the outer sleeve and push it up the cable, then thread the bayonet and reassemble before fastening the tiny grub screws.  This helps stop the new cable fraying when you try and insert it straight.

I’ve had to replace the internal cable twice when it’s broken or frayed. That’s also a bit of a test of nerve and it’s better to have a set made up to drop into place than to have to do it when time is pressing.

[PH]

Another tip is to take the male connector apart, thread it into the outer sleeve and push it up the cable, then thread the bayonet and reassemble before fastening the tiny grub screws. 

This is as good a place as any to repeat the frequently given tip (Not originally mine) to replace one grub screw on each bayonet part (4 screws total) with a cap head.  It makes no difference to anything other than making it far easier to hold and twist while disconnecting and reconnecting. I've forgotten what size they are, but if you know what size hex key fits you can look it up.