Author Topic: Spoke length  (Read 1973 times)

j-ms

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Spoke length
« on: July 09, 2022, 06:38:36 pm »
I am having the wheels of our Ravens rebuilt by my local wheel builder.  He is certainly the best wheel man in the Port Elizabeth area but has only laced a few Rohloff rims in the past.  To ensure he laces the wheels 100% as built by Thorn he has the wheels from both bicycles so he can use one as the template for the other and I have provided him with the new rims, spokes and nipples as ordered from Thorn on their advice.  Here are his initial comments - any comments from the forum would be appreciated and I will feed them back to him.

"There is a small difference in length between your old spokes ( older hub wheel) It shouldn’t make a serious problem but it does mean that the spoke won’t protrude out of the nipple.  I prefer it to protrude as it takes some pressure off the nipple. ( in the old days we used to build them without any spoke shaft from the top - now we do ).  Luckily with the shortness of the spoke and the slightly longer nipples I don’t think that it will cause problems.  The other thing that I noticed is that the new rim doesn’t have a double eyelet (double ferrules) making it a slightly weaker rim  . But that has been the trend of late."

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2022, 06:56:19 pm »
My wheel man has come back to say that the 2mm difference in the old and new spokes is compensated for by the new nipples being 2mm longer than the old one (the older spokes were 239mm vs the new ones' 237mm and the new nipples are 14 mm vs the older ones' 12mm).  So the effect may be minimal or nothing at all.

Danneaux

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2022, 07:03:47 pm »
Jean-Marc,

You may find some of the observations in this thread to be useful...
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14193.0
WRT my experience, I wrote...
Quote
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14193.0
The links included here...
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14193.msg105825#msg105825
...and especially this one may be useful in answering your questions, Jean-Marc...
https://www.velonews.com/gear/tech-faq-why-spoke-nipples-break-and-replacing-spokes-and-not-nipples/
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My wheel man has come back to say that the 2mm difference in the old and new spokes is compensated for by the new nipples being 2mm longer than the old one (the older spokes were 239mm vs the new ones' 237mm and the new nipples are 14 mm vs the older ones' 12mm).  So the effect may be minimal or nothing at all.
IMHO, this would ensure good thread engagement, but the other critical element is the internal support of the nipple head, to prevent decapitation caused by the head being in pure tension. A brass nipple alone is not so strong as a brass nipple sleeved/threaded over a steel spoke.

FWIW, I prefer to calculate my spoke lengths so the ends of the spokes are even with the top of the nipple, not more or less, for maximum strength. That said, there are sometimes problems with certain hub/rim combinations that require flexibility. On those occasions, I have sometimes but rarely allowed about 1mm protrusion (if it is a box-section rim; it can cause a puncture on a channel-section rim even with good rim tape) or a slight recess of as much as 1mm which amounts to a fraction of the nipple head.

Best, Dan.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2022, 07:05:39 pm by Danneaux »

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2022, 08:15:30 pm »
Thanks for that, Dan.  If I read it correctly, the suspected culprit with cracked nipples is too short a spoke length.  Do you think that the longer nipples compensating for the shorter spoke should mitigate against this problem ?  FWIW, the new rims are Ryde Andra 30s with holes drilled for Rohloff while the old rims were Ryde Zac 19s and the nipples and spokes are Sapim Race.

mickeg

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2022, 11:04:12 pm »
I can't speak for Dan, but I think longer nipples are not much help.  It is my understanding that the extra length of the nipple is not threaded.

Danneaux

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2022, 02:37:31 am »
From Jean-Marc...
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If I read it correctly, the suspected culprit with cracked nipples is too short a spoke length.
Yes.
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Do you think that the longer nipples compensating for the shorter spoke should mitigate against this problem ?
No.

The problem -- and it can take awhile to manifest -- arises from the internally unsupported nipple head supporting the spoke tension at the rim. There are two stress risers, one internal (threads) and a larger one that is external, where the head meets the rim. The second is most problematic in nipple decapitation because it is a sharp, abrupt change in radius and cross-section at the point of greatest tension.
From George...
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I can't speak for Dan, but I think longer nipples are not much help.  It is my understanding that the extra length of the nipple is not threaded.
In my experience, some nipples do have extended threading, but I agree most of the longer nipples I have seen simply have longer unthreaded shafts. PLACEMENT of the threads in the nipple is also key. If they are in the same place, the extra overall length adds nothing in this case except longer wrench flats. OTOH, if it is at the end that will help to better grasp the too-short spoke threads but the specter of head decapitation remains  Regardless, the problem comes when the spoke is too short and the internally unsupported column comprised of only the brass nipple itself is called upon to support tension all by itself. Eventually -- provided the spokes are properly tensioned -- something's gotta give in the weaker brass, and it eventually does -- >POP!<

As for extended nipple length and thread placement, it very much depends on the nipple brand, length, maker and application. I have attached a photo below of two nipples from my stock. The shorter one is by DT, the longer one is an early 1980s mass-production Hoshi, intended for machine-built wheels. The DT is shorter but actually has more threaded internal length. The Hoshi (_this_ Hoshi, for others vary due to different intended applications) simply has its extended length in the hub end of the nipple shaft making for longer flats so a machine can better grasp the nipple to spin it up on the mechanized wheelbuilding machine. Internally, the shorter DT actually has more threaded support, not due to brand but intended application (hand building rather than machine assembly) and again, thread placement in the shaft is important. I have a collection of fine dental picks with right-angle ends I use as depth gauges for my spoke nipples and I do check each batch I order to make sure threaded length AND thread placement in the nipple shaft are correct for my needs. Not every longer nipple is actually longer when viewed from the spoke's perspective!

All that said, what you can "get away with" (casting no aspersions on others and  their preferences) depends very much on application and supply-chain availability/inventory. I built up a pair of nice 406mm (the smaller "20-inch") wheels for my custom Folder project where the spokes do not fully support the nipples. The difference in this case was I manually countersunk each.and.every spoke hole in the unferruled rim so the spoke heads had greater support...but it is still the brass column at the nipple head alone that supports the spoke tension. The spoke lengths/nipples were all I could get at the time. I do plan to rebuild the wheels later, but needed these to check on frame clearances when I brazed in the chainstay and brake bridges, so will do for now but not permanently even though spoke tension is correct. I just don't trust them long-term.

As for ferruled vs plain (unferruled) rims, it is not only a strength issue but also one of spoke well design, angularity, and placements/offset. Your Andra 30 rims have NO ferrules, yet are very "strong" thanks to the extra thickness of aluminum in the extrusion in the center, along the spoke line. If you got the Rohloff -specific version, the spoke drillings and seats are angled with the larger Rohloff flange diameter in mind. I've found ferruled rims build to tension more easily without excess "stiction" at the nipple because the nipples (typically brass...I have not found the disadvantages of aluminum nipples to be worth the slight weight savings over brass) have less friction against the ferrule, resulting in less spoke windup and less need to counter-twist the nipple to achieve true tension at the seat than with a plain rim. Spoke well design plays a role in wheelbuilding ease and nipple longevity also, as does spoke angle of approach/crossings and hub diameter. The absolute worst for nipple decapitation risk is too-short spokes coupled with a shallow approach and a plain-edged hole in, say a chromed steel rim with raggedly drilled unfinished holes as found on cheap wheels of yore. The hole edges tend to cut into one side of the nipple as it is tensioned, forming a groove just beneath the head, making the native stress riser there worse. The "solution" for builders of these wheels is low spoke tension, which is really no solution at all.
=====
These observations come from building only several hundred pairs of wheels, NOT the several thousand (or tens of thousands more) of, say, Thorn's captive wheelbuilder. I've had good luck so far and (knock on wood) my Danneauxbuilt wheels have never suffered a decapitated nipple or broken spoke to date, despite a number having accrued >45,000-55,000kms in sometimes hard service. I suppose having said that, they'll all start popping like popcorn, the curse of the unspoken fear stated aloud! ;D My "wheel guru" is Wheelsmith founder Ric Hjertberg, whose knowledge I can only hope to ever approach. If you get a chance, look for his writings online and at his "Wheel Fanatyk" blog: https://wheelfanatyk.com/

Also from Jean-Marc...
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...the nipples and spokes are Sapim Race.
These are what Thorn used for my Nomad build in 2012 and they have worked well for me. Recently, they have come to endorse Rohloff spokes instead, due to full compatibility/Rohloff approval for warranty purposes. See... https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/spokes/146-rohloff-double-butted-201820-spokes-with-nipples-silver-set-of-37/?geoc=US Note the answer to the question about nipples below the product description. ;) For more information on Rohloff spokes and warranty coverage from Thorn, see the latest edition of "Living With a Rohloff" available here: http://www.sjscycles.com/thornpdf/ThornLivingWithARohloff.pdf Relevant pages are 34-35.

I wrote this on my phone as I often do, so hopefully the small screen, bright sunlight and autocorrect won't conspire to make a confusing result.

Best, Dan.

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2022, 07:55:19 am »
Just realised that the spokes and nipples are NOT Sapim but rather Rohloff as per the kit set supplied by Thorn:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/spokes/146-rohloff-double-butted-201820-spokes-with-nipples-silver-set-of-37/?geoc=US

mickeg

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2022, 10:01:17 am »
Are you saying that Rohloff now makes spokes?

When I built up my Rohloff wheel nine years ago, Rohloff had wheel building instructions in their manual about spoke placement on the non-drive side hub and cross pattern.  And I think that Rohloff sold spokes made by Sapim because the unusually short spoke length was difficult to obtain, thus selling spokes was a convenience for buyers.

I used Wheelsmith spokes and Sapim nipples on my Rohloff wheel, as the company that I bought my Rohloff hub from did not sell the Rohloff packaged spokes.  I am in USA, Sapim spokes are uncommon and I had been using Wheelsmith spokes for years.

In the years since then, Rohloff has apparently gotten much more specific about spokes and how that relates to flange cracking, but the details on that I have not been following.
 

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2022, 10:47:23 am »
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Are you saying that Rohloff now makes spokes?

All I can say is that spokes now come in a Rohloff zip lock packet of 37 spokes and nipples.  Who makes them might be another matter ;-)


PH

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2022, 11:43:16 am »
Ask two wheelbuilders get two, or more, opinions! I have two detailed wheel books by two very well regarded experts, they differ on a few points.

I have provided him with the new rims, spokes and nipples as ordered from Thorn on their advice.
If Thorn provided those components to go together, I'd assume it's what they'd use.  That leaves the obviously experienced wheelbuilder to follow Rohloff's instructions. I'd trust the wheelbuilder, or find one I did.
My strictly non professional opinion, I trust myself to build wheels, but wouldn't ask or expect anyone else to:
I've understood the optimum spoke length leaves the tip protruding from the thread, but short of the head, halfway up the slot is perfect.
I think double eyelets are not as necessary as they were a few years ago, the alloys are better and many of the heavy duty wheels have a thicker section of the extrusion at the spoke hole.  Plus with a Rohloff, or any large hub, eyelets restrict the ability to manipulate the angle the spoke enters.

Rohloff spokes are Sapim Race, Rohloff say they supply direct as the required lengths can be hard to find. I've also read that they've undergone an extra element of quality control (Heads checked for burrs?) but I can't remember where I heard that.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2022, 11:46:32 am by PH »

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2022, 02:46:38 pm »
Thanks for all the advice from the forum.  I'm feeling at ease with what Thorn have provided and have all the trust that Rob, my wheel man, will ensure that the wheels are built to spec.  We have just returned from three months cycling through Spain and the new rims were one of the chores to deal with before we head off to South America (Iguazu to Ushuia) for six months.  We will have six weeks on the bikes before we leave so if there are any issues they would hopefully present themselves in that time.

mickeg

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2022, 12:55:45 pm »
I forgot to mention earlier, but if your Rohloff hubs were built before they included the reinforcing rings for the flanges, Rohloff recommends that they be added if you get a wheel rebuilt.
https://www.rohloff.de/en/company/news/news/flange-support-rings

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2022, 01:55:19 pm »
Important point about the flange support rings and one of which I should have been aware.

Our bicycles were built in November 2016 and Rohloff recommends fitting the support rings for all hubs manufactured before autumn 2017.  So I am certain that the Rohloff would want us to fit them. 

However, to quote the SJS website the support rings are:

"Mainly used for heavy duty applications (tandem/very heavy duty touring)". 

My wife and I aren't particularly strong cyclists and both of us are both smaller than average people (my fighting weight is only about 58Kg). 

So hopefully the lack of the flange support rings won't come back to bite us.

mickeg

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2022, 04:07:34 pm »
I just wanted to make sure you were aware.

j-ms

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Re: Spoke length
« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2022, 01:14:10 pm »
Thanks Mick.