I imagine they will benefit from occasional maintenance, and I've got some research to do on finding someone I'd trust with them. I certainly won't be getting in there myself.
Well built wheels shouldn't require any adjustment to spokes and tensions for their life. My SJS built Mercury rear wheel is a couple of years older than the bike, so at least 7 years, the spokes haven't been touched. I pop it into the wheelstand when I'm doing a service to check true and give the spokes a ping to hear if there's any tension difference (There's an app to judge that precisely, but you can hear any significant difference) At the same time I'm looking for cracks or corrosion around the spoke holes, and if the bike is going to see any winter riding on salted roads I'll dribble a bit of ACF-50 in there (Or any other corrosion inhibitor) That's it.
The art of wheelbuilding is to get the spokes tight enough that they don't fatigue, without overly stressing the rim. Easier than it sounds, as that's quite a narrow window and not all wheeelbuilders agree which to prioritise. Right choice of components helps and non dished wheels, like a Rohloff, do make it simpler. Get that right, and the lifetime of spokes and rim, if you can avoid corrosion and wear from breaking, it pretty much infinite. The exception is damage, though even then a good wheel can take a lot, the wheel in the accident that wrote off my original Mercury's fork is still round and true! though the hub makes a horrible noise so it's not in use. OTOH they don't like a sideways impact, I've had a wheel bend almost in half from a much more minor collision at right angles.
Machine built wheels are a different story, both wheels on my E-bike needed re-truing after a couple of thousand miles and the cheap hybrid I used for deliveries before it broke two spokes in a year.