Author Topic: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge  (Read 11260 times)

PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« on: January 31, 2020, 08:57:49 am »
Has anyone used these two together?
Basically looking at the best way to wire these two to work together if possible. I suspect the best way is to wire them in parallel and treat them as seperate systems. The Cycle2Charge being fed directly from the Son 28 via a pair of parallel connectors leaving the Luxos U connected up to run the lights when needed but not charging and vice versa.

Alternatively Wondering if it's possible just to use the feed from the Luxos U directly to the Cycle2Charge and use the small cache battery in the Luxos U or are there any issues with this method..

Has anyone played about with this set up, just looking to avoid too many trial and error scenarios.

I want to be able to charge my Zendure A2 battery pack and use it's pass through function to run/charge either my iphone se or Garmin.

thanks for any advice.
Phil

mickeg

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2704
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2020, 05:50:46 pm »
Your parallel option of wiring them both to the hub is the way I wire a free-standing charger and a separate light.  I have my rando bike wired that way with an IQ-XS and the Sinewave Revolution.  (That revolution is the one I use for bike touring, but when not touring, it goes on the rando bike.)  When the light is off, all power goes to the Sinewave.

But, the Luxos U is no normal light, even with the lights off and with nothing drawing power out of the USB port, it will draw power to charge the internal battery.  You could certainly wire them both in a parallel fashion, but you might not get the full amount of power to the charger.  I think the Luxos U internal batteries are about one watt hour of capacity.  Thus, Luxos U might consume all the hub power for roughly a half hour if the batteries started out depleted.  And even once the Luxos U batteries are fully charged up, it might still have a small drain?

I would either use a different light without an internal battery or I would wire it so only one device is connected to the hub at one time with quick connectors.  Or, wire the light and charger in parallel and accept that some power might be lost.

I have been thinking about this same thing, I am thinking of a bike tour this summer with one of my bikes that has a Luxos U on it.  My current thinking is to take the Luxos U off the bike and use the Sinewave charger with a different light.

Your other point about drawing power from the Luxos U to the charger, I assume you mean wire it to the taillight pins on the Luxos U.  I have no clue if that is designed for that much current, it might work but I would avoid doing something that was not specifically recommended by B&M on anything that is that expensive.

PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2020, 07:43:28 pm »
Thanks for the input, it all makes sense and is pretty much in line with my thinking. I had decided against going via the luxos to the charger and wiring in parallel as my first option unless someone had experience of going through the luxos..
My other thoughts were to break the coaxial from my hub and put in a two way switch with one output to the luxos and the other to the Cycle2Charge.
That would allow either lights OR Cycle2Charge to be powered but not both together (OR gate). This isn't a problem as there isn't really enough current from the hub to run both lights and the charging circuit in any meaningful way.

I really like the light output from the Luxos, I don't use it that often when away travelling except through tunnels where it's invaluable or the odd time I've miscalculated distances and end up riding into the night, normally early or late season.

Of course then I need to source a good quality fully waterproof switch. If I go that way I'll get back and explain the good and the bad of the system.

mickeg

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2704
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2020, 12:52:42 am »
One more thing, I am not sure about this but I think that the Luxos U taillight wiring might not be AC, but since you are not planning to use that, not an issue.

I use a headlamp on my bike so rarely when touring that on my last bike tour, I chose not to install a headlight on my bike at all, my hub was used 100 percent for battery charging, never for lighting.  I elaborated more at this link.
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13696.0


PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2020, 12:38:28 pm »
Thanks for the input.

At the moment I'm considering going with the Igaro D2 pro and their own switching harness, This looks ike it would be a neat but expensive solution, but given that I do trips every year of at least 3 months duration it's probably worth the expense. They also seem to have the best slow speed output of any of the devices I've looked at, which of course is important when fully loaded particularly in tough terrain.

No urgency my existing system is working but I'll want a new arrangement sorting out by the end of spring.

Pavel

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 142
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2020, 04:24:45 pm »
I've never used a trailer, but as I too have been pondering these sort of things myself of late, I think that having a trailer with a dyne would be quite an advantage for those of us who would choke with a nervous feeling of "what if", were we to not have a dyno-light.

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8229
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2020, 06:28:23 pm »
Phil,

For what it's worth, I echo George's thoughts on setting up a Cycle2Charge in parallel to your Luxos U and second his statements on Luxos system drain while it is recharging its internal battery. I would address it by simply splicing a DPST switch between the dynohub and the Luxos U so the Luxos U could be taken offline entirely while charging gadgets via the Cycle2Charge alone.

A couple additional thoughts...

I passed on the Luxos U when it was introduced once I saw and calculated the small capacity of the internal battery. I prefer replaceable/separate cache batteries rather than embedded batteries and the early models also had some reported problems with water ingress that were soon addressed. I salvaged and modified a Luxos U that was discarded after developing a water-entry problem so a friend could get dyno lighting on the cheap. I gutted the water damaged portions that were corroded and salvaged/downconverted it to an LED-only headlight with no charging, no adaptive beam and no standlight, just with an on/off switch in the wiring for preference and to maximize charging power. The owner preferred an LED blinky so taillight rectification never came into play. I ran the charging lead separately (parallel) starting at the Shimano dynohub's connectors so when all was said and done, the owner had a basic dyno-powered headlight with a fixed Luxos beam and a separate charger coupled with a battery-powered LED blinky taillight as was his preference.

Tangentially, Pavel mused...
Quote
I think that having a trailer with a dyne would be quite an advantage for those of us who would choke with a nervous feeling of "what if", were we to not have a dyno-light.
Easiest and cheapest way to accomplish this would be to equip the trailer with a wiring harness that plugged into the bike's dyno-light wiring and either disconnected the bike's taillight or ran in tandem with it.

I took a more elaborate route when I built up a trailer with its own independent charging and taillighting back in 2012, Pavel. Details here:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4953.0
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4953.msg41441#msg41441
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4953.msg41443#msg41443
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=12293.msg90541#msg90541
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=12775.msg95428#msg95428

My Extrawheel trailer has its own SON28 Klassik dynohub mated to a Rigida Andra 30 rim and running a 26 x 2.0 Schwalbe Dureme tire.

The Dynohub charges via its own B&M e-Werk set to USB standard 6vdc @ 500mA/0.5A output for universal USB 2.0 charging but the current output can be dialed up to 1000mA/1A if desired.

Dyno-powered taillighting is via a custom AC to DC rectifier and voltage regulator I made so the SON28's AC power can light a DC powered B&M Toplight Line Plus taillight on a bracket and mounts I milled from aluminum billet. The taillight has a built-in capacitor that supplies power to the light for 4.5 minutes after movement has stopped. Though the taillight draws minimal power, I incorporated a microswitch into my converter board so I can turn the taillight on/off manually.

To ensure visibility in traffic, the trailer also uses a Blackburn Mars 4.0 LED blinky/steady taillight powered by 2 AAA cells...which of course can be recharged via the trailer's SON28/e-Werk and an Eneloop USB charger. I pondered powering the Mars 4.0 blinky directly from the Dynohub via my custom rectifier/regulator so I could lose the batteries or replace them with a capacitor to also run for about 4.5 minutes after stopping, but the present setup has worked so well I haven't made the change.

I rigged detachable sails for the spokes so the trailer could be inverted at night to serve as a wind generator while in camp. It worked very well in the desert an coastal areas where the wind blew overnight so I could awaken to fully charged batteries in the morning. The trailer also provided a secondary means for dyno-charging during the day, augmented further by my Joos solar panel(s).

I have occasionally coupled the powered trailer to my Fixie, a bike with no dynohub. I simply run a 2-conductor wire forward from the trailer's AC dyno output to the bicycle handlebars, where I have mounted a B&M Cyo dyno headlight on a homemade quick-release bracket. When I don't want the trailer, the bike reverts back to its native lightweight configuration without dyno lighting, charging, or cargo-carrying capacity.

Sadly, some of the Forum's stored photo files were corrupted during a software upgrade, but I've attached a few below that show my trailer's charging and dyno-powered tailight in a little more detail. A Cycle2Charge would work as well in this application as my e-Werk.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2020, 07:34:37 pm by Danneaux »

Pavel

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 142
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2020, 08:43:31 pm »
Dan that is very elegant, and highly motivational.  I bought an E-Werk in 2-12 and have never used it once.  Now I have a distant goal in mind, perhaps. 

I would likely charge the iPhone and the light the same way, in parallel, the way one would if only one dyne-hub were present, but it would be fantastic to have a trailer charging some sort of large spare battery for charging up the phone, or a tablet, to extend one's independence.  I've had no luck of course charging a battery and then a tablet from it, as the iPads I had back in 2010 to 2016 all needed too much power to charge properly off any external battery.  I wonder if new miracles have come by since then?

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8229
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2020, 08:49:45 pm »
Pavel,

One option would be to dedicate the trailer system to charging a large pile (battery) and then use that to power a "hungry" phone or tablet. The trailer charging system is ideal for this 'cos it can be dedicated to all-day charging while the bike system can be used for other, shorter term needs.

If you can find an external battery that outputs regulated constant voltage of 5vdc @ 2.0A (10 watts), it will should be sufficient to charge an iPad. Here's a link I saved from back in the day:
https://www.macworld.com/article/2042742/review-nine-batteries-for-charging-your-ipad-and-everything-else.html

I've found some solar options can work well but often require a full day's sun. My panel and accumulator battery are a bit more sensitive and can charge inside my tent or under a little water but at a greatly reduced rate. It really requires a full day's exposure in bright sunshine to recharge it's on-board Li-Po battery from flat to full again.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2020, 11:02:58 pm by Danneaux »

mickeg

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2704
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2020, 10:53:30 pm »
Regarding the Luxos U and internal battery pack, the third headlamp that I bought for a dynohub was the Luxos U, i wanted it because it had an internal battery pack.  My Garmin GPS (model 64) will not charge directly from a USB charger powered by a dynohub without a pass through cache battery.  And for riding around home I decided that it was a bit of a headache to always be carrying a bigger pass through cache battery.  Thus I bought the Luxos U to be able to directly charge my Garmin while riding around home where hauling around the bike touring equipment was less convenient.

It is bike touring where I would leave the Luxos U at home, on a bike tour I am charging up a lot more stuff than just my GPS, then the bigger pass through cache battery is needed.


...I've had no luck of course charging a battery and then a tablet from it, as the iPads I had back in 2010 to 2016 all needed too much power to charge properly off any external battery.  I wonder if new miracles have come by since then?

Yeah, use a device with less power consumption.

I have never owned an Apple phone or tablet, I use Android based equipment.  But I frequently use a 7 inch Android tablet that will draw a bit over an amp from the battery when it is in use with the screen on, screen set at a moderately low light setting.  That is roughly twice the battery drain rate that my hub and USB charger could produce while rolling. 

I used that tablet for two hours yesterday, but I only use that tablet where I have ready access to a power outlet (or mains).  I quit taking the tablet on bike tours, last time was in 2014.  Now I instead use an Android phone with a 5.5 inch screen for touring.  I do not recall exactly how much current it draws, but I think it is about half of what the tablet draws.  Thus, my phone uses about the same power as my hub and charger can produce.  Assuming that there are some losses when charging and later discharging batteries, I probably get 20 minutes of phone screen time on wifi for every 30 minutes of rolling time to recharge it.

I have no idea if there is a good app for Apple devices to measure battery drain, but Android devices can use this app to estimate and monitor battery drain rates.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digibites.accubattery

***

This link is a google translate version of a German document that covers a lot of detail on converting hub power to USB power, it also briefly describes a B&M USB-Werk:
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=https://fahrradzukunft.de/21/steckdose-unterwegs-4/&xid=17259,15700021,15700186,15700190,15700256,15700259,15700262,15700265,15700271,15700301&usg=ALkJrhinkvnrcxwGc8xhEoE9-pzKuWjO5A

Note that it says that the USB-Werk uses the same internal battery pack as the Luxos U.

And note that figure 13 has a good graph for power output from several USB chargers.  Up to about 20 km/hour, most have about the same power output, but over 20km there is a fairly big divergence betwwen different chargers.  Interesting that for most people, touring speed is about 20km/hour, so most of the chargers put out about the same power up to a typical touring speed, but at higher speeds is where you get a big divergence.  Unfortunately that chart does not include the Cycle2Charge performance curve.


PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2020, 01:34:59 pm »
Dan/Mick, thanks for the comments they all reinforce my own thoughts and observations. I agree entirely about the issue relating to seperate components Dan, but when I chose the Luxos U it was for similar reasons to Mick, I primarily wanted a lighting system for local rides with a bit of charging for my Garmin. At that time I was very minimalist with my long distance travels and used paper maps exclusively, my mobile phone was just an emergency device.

Things have moved on and like everyone else find I use the Garmin more and my iPhone has become a very useful tool for keeping in touch with the world (not sure that's such a good thing given it's current state maybe ignorant bliss is more calming).

Dan, do you have any preferred waterproof switches in mind (uk preferably)? I'm pretty good at making things work (chartered engineer mech/elec), but don't believe in reinventing things when others have obviously trodden the path previously. Also are you still happy with the cycle2charge set up and has it delivered a decent slow speed output? I would prefer to spend 60 euro on a charger than more than double that on the Igaro D2, although I'm happy to buy the Igaro if it provides a better solution.

BTW, really enjoyed reading about the trailer rig, excellent work.

Thanks for all the advice.
Phil


Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8229
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2020, 08:13:03 pm »
Thanks for the kind words, Phil.
Quote
Dan, do you have any preferred waterproof switches in mind (uk preferably)?
I don't have any I can specifically recommend, but would suggest you start your journey at your local full-service hobby shop devoted to R/C (radio-controlled) models. That's how I tumbled to my favored Deans connectors and while at the shop I saw a number of smallish, waterproof switches that could be easily adapted and mounted to mount on a frame tube or fork blade with a cable tie. Most R/C cars are subject to the same environments as bicycles with extremes of heat, cold, vibration, wet and mud so they are well hardened against all those to ensure reliability over time and many cycles of ab/use. The kind of switch I have in mind is used to switch between battery packs, so is pretty ideal for purpose. Here is a YouTube video showing this sort of switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBQ4hZi0PaU Pricey at a suggested retail of nearly USD$40, they are available on eBay for about $10ppd, not so far away from a DIY solution where you have to buy the switch, pump it full of high-dielectric grease ad/or pot the electrics in epoxy, rig a boot for it, then mount it inverted by a means you create. Here's a purchase link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SkyRC-Power-Switch-MCU-on-off-Controlled-for-LiPo-NiMH-Battery-Voltage-RC-Car-/182742498135?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Available also from UK sources, I'm not endorsing this switch directly but as a type to look for; there's many options from the R/C realm that would do equally well.
Quote
I'm pretty good at making things work (chartered engineer mech/elec)
You should do fine especially with your background, Phil. So long as one is facile at wiring and the most basic circuitry it is an easy project. If you can also solder it is a bonus toward making reliable connections, particularly when paired with some heat-shrink tubing.
Quote
...but don't believe in reinventing things when others have obviously trodden the path previously.
A wise man! No need to reinvent the wheel.  :)
Quote
Also are you still happy with the cycle2charge set up and has it delivered a decent slow speed output?
So far, it (I have two) has proven to work as well in practice as my other solutions (one The Plug 2+, three B&M e-werks), but at a fraction of the price. I oddly enough do miss the reassurance of a visual "ready to charge" indicator as shown by my The Plug 2+. I used it as a quick indicator of over-demand to see if the battery of the device I plugged in was drawing more power than the charger could supply. The Cycle2Charge just sits there and does what it does with no self-indication; my devices supply that with their own charging indicators. Again, as a practical matter it makes no difference and I have long ago pre-vetted the devices I plan to charge using "shop" tools -- digital-numeric indicators of voltage requirements and current draw, so it is just a visual I liked and now miss that really no longer does anything in practice. I remember reading an article that said "bouncing light" displays and shiny objects tend to fascinate primitive peoples, so perhaps that's why I like them too.  ;) All kidding aside, the Cycle2Charge has done well for me in providing a useful charge at a usefully low speed as well as at my normal day and touring cruising speeds and seems to usefully limit maximum output when screaming downhill at higher speeds.

Do keep in mind, however, that no charging unit is going to work as superbly at lower speeds as it will at higher ones. The speed that translates to maximum output is just not there and we don't have a lot of power to work with anyway. I really want a 3-phase dynohub. It has already arrived in some sidewall dyamos and looks to be coming soon to naben(hub)dynamos, but we're not there just yet. Limited charging power at slow speeds was a major reason behind my "charging trailer" concept: If I was going to an area so remote for so long a time I needed a trailer to ensure self-sufficiency, then it was a good bet I would be going at slower speeds on difficult terrain and would have a challenge meeting power demands on devices (i.e. my GPS) I would be using more and longer. Since I couldn't take a second bicycle with charging system, I appropriated the trailer for those needs figuring if it was going along for the ride, it might as well pay its way. Solar also helped in this respect and I have found it to be a great augmentation for dyno-power, but not yet a consistent substitute for long-term use alone. I used solar exclusively as my off-grid means for self-generating power during my 4-month 2014 European double-crossing along with a large pile and a couple smaller ones. It worked, but a key to it working well was the summer season and my periodic stays in lodging to top up the batteries from mains power*. As mentioned earlier, the Li-Po battery in my solar panel required a full 12 hours of bright sunshine to bring from empty to full charge. Needless to say, it is easy to get the procedural aspects of a charging scheme wrong at first and it takes awhile to fully integrate it into a fuller touring lifestyle to a point where it becomes second-nature. As with any aspect of CampLife™, once you get it down, then it takes surprisingly little time or effort ecause you've already made the behavioral modifications to integrate it.
Quote
I would prefer to spend 60 euro on a charger than more than double that on the Igaro D2, although I'm happy to buy the Igaro if it provides a better solution
There is something else to keep in mind wrt on-bike chargers and that is integration -- or the deliberate lack of it. I prefer an integrated solution that remains on a single bike and is somewhat resistant to casual theft so I like units that bolt on in some way. The alternative to that is a unit you can quickly remove and stow or even transfer to another bike to maximize your value and the utility of the unit. Aesthetics come into play here somewhere as well, as does function. If you have a stem cap you really like -- some folks prefer ones with snap-in analog watches or temperature gauges (i.e. https://stemcaptain.com/ ), then replacing that with a charging head and port can be problematic. You also want something that isn't going to put a strain on the wiring leading to or from it, so it pays to put some thought into how those wires connect and lead and whether/if it is important for you to be able to charge in the rain. With my TTTP2+, I can charge in the rain by installing it with the port pointing rearward and fitting a little "rain bonnet" I made. The Cycle2Charge's plastic cap itself allows in-rain charging provided you orient the port on the "down" side of any drips. The e-Werks are the best in this regard by virtue of their screw-together waterproof leads that have the option of terminating in a USB port wherever you choose to place it. I prefer to carry my gadgets in my waterproof handlebar bag while they are charging. This means using a "just right" length of USB lead so it is not so long as to result in a voltage drop, yet long enough to snake under my Ortlieb's over-cap to prevent rainwater (and in my case, dust) following the lead inside. There's a lot more than just output and minimum charging speeds to think about when selecting a charger, and it does pay to put some thought into the particulars before splashing out for one. Everyone's needs and requirements are different, so what works well for me in my (sometimes extreme) requirements might never come into play for someone else. Reading a lot, asking questions in advance and then sharing the good and bad after go a long way toward advancing the field because makers in this rapidly evolving market segment are pretty responsive. You can almost count on your carefully selected purchase to be completely eclipsed in efficiency and convenience in no more than four years and likely in two or less. You have to be content to pay your money for a good-enough/best solution now and then figure it will work as it does until the gap in efficiency becomes large enough to upgrade. This is a key reason why I prefer separate solutions to integrated ones so I can upgrade as needed with minimal fuss and cost. The reason behind my prejudices against embedded batteries is a little different. Those units are often sealed so when a battery begins to noticeably lose storage capacity after a couple years, it is all downhill until it becomes wholly unusable. Embedded-battery units don't continue to work as well as when they are new and when they have declined to a noticeable degree you have to replace an otherwise well-functioning unit prematurely and yet another bit of electronica goes into the waste stream.

So, hopefully some questions answered and further food for thought.

All the best,

Dan.

* I have found most lodgings lack mains outlets in sufficient numbers to charge all my gadgets in the limited time I'm staying (i.e. overnight) and I hate setting the alarm several times in the middle of the night to swap items in/out for charging serially. My solution has been to (also) carry a travel charger with multiple outlets so I can charge/top-off more than one gadget at the same time. I also carry a socket adapter so I can swap a light bulb in a room fixture for another mains outlet. Just remember most lamps are switched, so be sure you're getting power before plugging in and going to sleep or you'll awaken to find nothing has happened! :D It also helps to buy gadgets that allow for quick-charging so you can make the most of power when it is available. Of course, this means carrying the dedicated charging transformer that makes it possible! With many high-powered gadgets, having to revert to standard USB charging levels of only 500mA can easily extend charging times by a factor of 2-3, even 4x. The same holds true when charging from a bicycle dyno-charger. Very few offer more than 500mA/0.5A effective output, at least during most of the time/speeds you use them while touring with a heavy load in mixed terrain. If a gadget seems to take forever to charge on a bike (provided it charges at all), it is because it is charging at a lower rate than one is used to with its dedicated mains charger. Just another factor to keep in mind.
=====
Apologies for any typos in the above; I think I corrected most of them in editing after posting. I typed this on my phone roadside and outdoors in bright sunlight, so I may have missed something. Communications and journaling are yet another topic for the touring cyclist (see: http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?board=33.0 ). I have a folding USB Bluetooth keyboard I love dearly, but the usual solution for my "production" phone typing is the stylus on my Note 4 (the last Note to be available with a user-replaceable battery). The stylus is much faster than thumb-texting and doesn't aggravate my De Quervain's tenosynovitis.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2020, 08:32:17 pm by Danneaux »

PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2020, 10:56:33 am »
Thanks Dan, there's a lot of useful information there.
Yes, I can solder and weld/braze too, I'm a very practical engineer having served a formal apprenticeship as a Millwright prior to qualifying as a professional engineer, I build my own wheels and for others too along with all my own bikes, working on bikes is easy, getting the latest information based upon experience isn't so easy. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I only run a charging system on my expedition bike so only need one set up, but it needs to be reliable when I'm away travelling for months at a time. It's amazing how things have eveolved in the 40 years I've been doing long journeys, camping equipment, and communications particularly. I often look back at my kit all those years ago and am amazed how things have changed, although Carradice has remained a constant.

I'll get a swith and decide which charger and order it this week, will let you know how I get on.

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8229
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2020, 12:30:46 pm »
Terrific, Phil.  :) Looking forward to seeing your result; I know it will come out great.

All the best,

Dan.

PhilD28

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
Re: Luxos U with Cycle2Charge
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2020, 07:18:59 am »
Cycle2Charge V3 on it's way, also weatherproof switch for model cars ordered. What I was unable to determine was if V3 cycle2charge was any different to V2, I suppose it is but there's not much info on the website other than the graph which suggests minor performance improvements. It is more expensive, but still very affordable compared to the competition.

Phil