Author Topic: nomad build  (Read 27120 times)

bobs

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #45 on: April 03, 2017, 09:01:22 PM »
Just out of curiosity how do you remove the rear wheel or adjust for chain stretch.

rualexander

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #46 on: April 03, 2017, 09:24:52 PM »
Just out of curiosity how do you remove the rear wheel or adjust for chain stretch.
You remove the rear wheel the same way as any other, undo the quick release and take out the wheel, you also have to release the torque arm clevis pin which is simple.

You don't adjust for 'chain stretch', you just accept that the chain wears and gets looser over time and will need replacing after a couple of thousand miles, similar to a derailleur chain.

Paul S

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #47 on: April 03, 2017, 09:33:15 PM »
You don't adjust for 'chain stretch', you just accept that the chain wears and gets looser over time and will need replacing after a couple of thousand miles, similar to a derailleur chain.

Interesting philosophy.  ::)
Peddle Power = Will Power...... & the right gears.

rualexander

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #48 on: April 03, 2017, 09:48:42 PM »
You don't adjust for 'chain stretch', you just accept that the chain wears and gets looser over time and will need replacing after a couple of thousand miles, similar to a derailleur chain.

Interesting philosophy.  ::)

Its not a philosophy, its a practicality.

You could of course get an eccentric bottom bracket such as the Exzentriker.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2017, 09:50:13 PM by rualexander »

mickeg

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #49 on: April 03, 2017, 11:07:57 PM »
Just out of curiosity how do you remove the rear wheel or adjust for chain stretch.

If you are talking about a Raven or Nomad, for chain stretch you adjust it with the eccentric bottom bracket.  That effectively moves the bottom bracket (and chainrings) further from or closer to the rear axle.

If you instead use a chain tensioner as you would need to do on the Sherpa, the tensioner takes up the stretch.


David Simpson

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #50 on: April 03, 2017, 11:20:51 PM »
Just out of curiosity how do you remove the rear wheel or adjust for chain stretch.

If you are talking about a Raven or Nomad, for chain stretch you adjust it with the eccentric bottom bracket.  That effectively moves the bottom bracket (and chainrings) further from or closer to the rear axle.

If you instead use a chain tensioner as you would need to do on the Sherpa, the tensioner takes up the stretch.

He's asking about a bike without an EBB or a chain tensioner. See the post earlier in this thread:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=12334.msg91109#msg91109

- DaveS

dick220369

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #51 on: April 06, 2017, 06:59:01 PM »
Well I eventually took the plunge and ordered my Rohloff wheel build from SJS today. I appreciate that not everyone will agree with this decision but, where desire is concerned, common sense for me goes out the window. I purchased the non disk brake version of the Rohloff with internal gear mech. Another choice not everyone will agree with but if people were all of a similar mind the world would be a very boring place to live in. We all like different things and that's why some of my choices will seem absurd/pointless to others. I bought this version of the Rohloff for the following reasons:

  • The first bike I ever used had disk brakes and I absolutely hated them. So much so that I sold that bike 2 months after purchasing it and bought something with "proper" brakes.
  • The Rohloff without the ex mech was cheaper and I will never upgrade to disk brakes.
  • If I want an ex-mech in the future, the Rohloff can be easily upgraded.
  • When using a torque arm, the cables for the Rohloff have to go up the seat stays and I feel that this will be a lot neater using a non ex-mech hub. Also the ex-mech looks exposed when routing the cables this way and maybe more prone to damage.
  • Although I mentioned that I would buy a Nomad frame in the future, this may never happen.
  • I've read the pros and cons for both versions of the Rohloff and there is nothing that would have deterred me from buying the internal version.

geocycle

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #52 on: April 06, 2017, 07:45:09 PM »
I've not had a problem with the internal hub in 30,000 miles. I have now replaced the internal cable twice. It is a bit fiddly and better to do at home in a workshop rath than at the roadside. I'd suggest changing it as a service item. In theory the ex box has less visible cable and should be better, in practice I've not noticed any issues.
 

dick220369

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #53 on: April 06, 2017, 08:22:55 PM »
Thanks for the info geocycle :)

Danneaux

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #54 on: April 06, 2017, 08:41:48 PM »
Quote
We all like different things...
Absolutely! You're in good company here. :D

Very much looking forward to updates on your project. All good luck your way.

All the best,

Dan.

Paul S

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #55 on: April 06, 2017, 08:49:53 PM »
Well I eventually took the plunge and ordered my Rohloff wheel build from SJS today.

Fare play chap! 8)

Enjoy the Hub. they are worth the money.
Peddle Power = Will Power...... & the right gears.

bobs

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #56 on: April 06, 2017, 09:50:32 PM »
Having had both I prefer the EX box, but that's me. As you said you can always change it at a later date.

mickeg

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #57 on: April 07, 2017, 12:33:53 AM »
If they have not started the wheel build yet, you might consider a CSS rim.  Costs a bit more but will last forever.  The brake pads also cost a bit more, needs special pads.  If you are using your bike for your sole transportation, a rim that lasts forever may be one of those things that interest you.

I do not know if you need a different bottom bracket for a different chainline.  You might want to ask SJS if the one you have is good enough. 

Sounds like you ordered the variety of hub that I would have ordered if I tried to put one on my Sherpa.  I probably would have preferred mounting the cable stops to the cantilever post.  Not sure what they have for clips to hold the cables to the toptube, but I am sure that you and SJS will figure something out.

There recently was a long thread on re-using the filler cap.  You will not need to know about that for a while, but eventually you will need to know how to do an oil change.  I re-used my filler cap this past weekend, but I put new coat of blue locktite on it before putting it back into the hub.  I over the years bought two oil change kits (complete with syringe, spare filler cap, hose) so I have a couple spare filler caps if one gets lost.

There are at least three different theories on how much oil is needed in each oil change, I use 15 ml.  Rohloff specification is 25 ml.  Thorn has suggested a couple numbers, one of which was 15 ml.

It will be noisy in gears 1-7 at first, but after the first oil change it gets better.

You are going to like it.

dick220369

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #58 on: April 07, 2017, 08:08:49 AM »
Quote
If they have not started the wheel build yet, you might consider a CSS rim.

I did order the css rim wheel build from SJS. I ordered everything yesterday and got an email later on that day saying that the items have been dispatched. I've always had excellent service from SJS and very rarely use any other online retailer when buying stuff for my bike. The email did surprise me though because I thought a wheel build would take at least a few days. Going to be busy this weekend putting everything together :)

Quote
I do not know if you need a different bottom bracket for a different chainline.

I already enquired about this and SJS said that I can use one of their reversible chainrings on the outer position of the crank along with the crank bolts that come with the rohloff to achieve a 54mm chainline.

jags

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Re: nomad build
« Reply #59 on: April 07, 2017, 11:31:50 AM »
best of luck with the new build dick it will be interesting if nothing else to  hear if the expensive was worth it  i most certainly hope so .
if i were to upgrade my bike it would be a motor to help me get up the hills  ;D

anto.