take a link out the chain when its stretched ?

[sg37409]

My RST is set up with a 40*16. I needed to adjust the chain this weekend, but the only way to get a decent tension on it was to remove a couple of links.
The chain was slack enough pre-adjustment to come off as I went over a bumpy bit of road. The chain has about 6,000 km on it, so not a huge mileage but its not had an easy life, plenty of commuting sprints, filthy trails, etc.

Does anyone else remove a couple of links or fit a new ?
Last time, I turned the sprocket, the chainring looks ok still.

Thinking about this now, I reckon I should just splash out on a new chain. I just constantly seem to get less mileage out of mine than others report, and I'm pretty sure its not due to extra torque generated.... :-)

[Chris M]

I'm not sure about the chain and Rohloffs in general but looking at the chainring is sometimes not enough to know it's still ok. I had an annoying 'creak' on my recently completed Club Tour but only on the middle chainring, the chainset had come from another bike and had done about 5000 miles. After eliminating all other possibilites; bottom bracket, cranks and peddles I was sure it wasn't the chainring as it looked fine. I decided to replace the middle chainring and when compared to a new one the wear was minimal but it did the trick and I now have a silent drive train.

[FrogPrince]

When I bought my New Raven in Sept 13 The guy pointed out that because of my frame size and 41 - 19 set up the bottom bracket needed to be at full adjustment. When the chain becomes slack I have to remove a link and then the BB can be turned fully back to the rear. I have done about 1200 miles and the chain won't need adjusting for a while. As I live near SJS Cycles they said when the chain needs adjusting I could bring it in and they would do it for free. 

[sg37409]

because of my frame size and 41 - 19 set up the bottom bracket needed to be at full adjustment. When the chain becomes slack I have to remove a link and then the BB can be turned fully back to the rear.

This is what I wondered. 587S with a 40*16 ....
I guess I should email thorn.

[geocycle]

Buy a new chain.  6000km isn't huge but is significant.  You'll need one soon anyway.

But before fitting it take a link out of the old one and see if it will fit.  If you have got to the minimum point of the EBB you probably will be OK and get another 2k or so. 

The more tricky thing is whether the new chain will mesh with the chainring and sprocket.  If the sprocket is recently turned then you might need to do the same with the chain ring.  Many of us run two chains in parallel, swapping every 3 km so they get worn at even rates with the other components.

[David Simpson]

I assume you mean 3K km, not 3 km.  If it is 3 km, then I admire your dedication to your bike maintenance.   

- Dave

[sg37409]

Yeah, might as well replace the chain (I already took links out and it fits ok) I'll get one this weekend maybe.
Might as well do the oil change while I'm at it, it will be early but thats ok. 

Aware of the problem with it (not) meshing. When the chain came off, I was ready to experience the horrible noises as I put it back on, but possibly getting it a link out. Its was a 50/50 chance and I got it right this time, have fallen foul of this before. Even/even (40*16) gearing has this potential issue.

[geocycle]

Great to hear it's resolved. You've reminded me to buy a spare chain!

[mickeg]

Since I have an even number of teeth on both chainring and rear cog, I have been using this theory.  But I have so few miles on the bike that I can't say yet if it extends chain life or not.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html

I cut a tiny little notch in one tooth on the chainring and in the cog, I only put links with outer plates on those teeth.

[sg37409]

Good tip Mick. Just need to keep it clean enough to see the wee grooves ! :-)