Torx Upgrade

[strat]

Does anyone know the size of the torx screw that holds the cable housing on to the Rohloff twistgrip? One of mine has disappeared. The tension of the cable seems to be holding it together at the moment but I would like the security of the screw.

[strat]

Does anyone know the size of the torx screw that holds the cable housing on to the Rohloff twistgrip? One of mine has disappeared. The tension of the cable seems to be holding it together at the moment but I would like the security of the screw.

[stutho]

strat:
I think you nead a Twistshifter ear torque screws for Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 (# 8203)
see http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm  and look under Rohloff Internal Hub gear Spares
They cost £0.99 for 2

[strat]

Thanks Stutho, why didnt't I think of that? It is unclear whether they supply one or two screws, but at 99p I would hope for two. A problem with SJSC is their postage charge of £5, I always end up spending more that I want to justify this.

[stutho]

They may just ignore the P& P on such a small item if you speak to them personally - Ask them really nicely to pop it in the royal mail by second class post.

[graham]

I've been away from the computer for a couple of weeks, and had a few thoughts on the Torx headset bolt idea.

1) don't bother. The headset bolt is only for preloading the bearings. If the stem clamp screws have been replaced for Torx, the most a thief could escape with is the bolt and plastic cap (and possibly a spacer or two). The bike would still be rideable.

2) modify the cap head bolt by drilling out the hex, tapping it and glueing in a button head Torx screw. I think you'd get away with this on the headset because the bolt doesn't have to go too tight. I wouldn't trust doing it with the seat screws, though, which seem to be a recessed cap head bolt.

[stutho]

I think that I am resigned to keeping the Allen bolts that have a Cap head - the motivation for getting them all to Torx was so no Allen keys would be needed.  I don't think it is likely I can get rid of every last Allen bolt so might as well use Allen for all the cap head bolts.  I still think, in a perfect world, all the fasteners would be Torx as they are far harder to round than Allen.

[graham]

I think I saw an advert in an old copy of my IMEchE magazine for a firm specialising in stainless fasteners, especially unusual ones. Problem is the magazine has now been recycled! I'll be looking out for said advert from now on, though. The mag comes fortnightly so they might run the advert again eventually. And the company might even sell small quantities to joe public if we're lucky.
Personally, I can't see the problem with having a mixture of heads. All of the required drivers come in a stubby 1/4" hex size so all you want is the ones that apply to your bike and a holder. Probably lighter than carrying individual allen keys and on a par with a largish multi-tool. I think it unlikely I'd want to undo most of my accessories on the road anyway, so if they're torx I'd just wait till I got home. As long as I could play with (tighten, mostly, if they came loose) the seatpin, handlebars, chainring and also adjust the brakes I'd be happy. Thinking about it, the aforesaid list covers the stuff most likely to be left as hex anyway. So I'd take the allen keys and leave the torx thingy at home.