Worth installing a split link?

[PhilD]

I am about to adjust the EBB for the first time on my Raven Tour (actually, I am about to remove a link from the chain because the EBB was supplied rotated to the front, i.e. the maximum tension position).

I just wondered whether people found it useful to have a split link in their chain.

[geocycle]

I'd say it's not critical as you won't need to keep taking your chain for cleaning often.  I do have one on mine (PC68 at the moment) but I just lift the wheel off if I need to completely remove the chain.

Tensioning the ebb should be straightforward.  I made the mistake of overdoing the number of times I tensioned at first and ended up with too many holes close together in the EBB.  Also, the instructions highlight the need to avoid the thin side which is of course true, but it made me think the EBB was in some way delicate.  However, it is simply a big lump of metal and you should put plenty of tension on the bolts into the thick alu of the correct side to avoid it slipping or the bolts coming loose.   

[sbseven]

Does PhilD means a half-link?

Different chainstay lengths and chainring and sprocket sizes will create different starting positions for the EBB with a new chain.

Your EBB starting position happens to fall near it's maximum tension position. (The new chain would start out too tight with a link removed). For you, a half-link (on a new chain) would put the EBB a little beyond the middle of its adjustment range. You may still perhaps have to take out a link towards the end of the chain's life? (My Nomad's chain has 102 links. 1/16" wear over 12" gives 0.52" for 102 links = half link ==> 1/8" wear = 1 link).

I can see a half-link being useful in a couple of circumstances:

• If the half-link addition nicely gives the EBB near maximum adjustment potential AND you don't run chains into the ground. Then you'd not have to remove a link during the lifetime of the chain;
• If the half-link addition provides more useable EBB adjustment whilst on a medium length tour, thus avoiding having to remove a link whilst away from home.

I'd also second geocycle's advice on tensioning the EBB.

Shaun

[PhilD]

Does PhilD means a half-link?

No, I did mean a split-link. After a run of rear-wheel punctures I was wondering if it would be easier to take the wheel on/off after first removing the chain. I have a GPS mount on the handlerbars and it makes it awkward to stand the bike on its saddle.


Your EBB starting position happens to fall near it's maximum tension position. (The new chain would start out too tight with a link removed). For you, a half-link (on a new chain) would put the EBB a little beyond the middle of its adjustment range. You may still perhaps have to take out a link towards the end of the chain's life? (My Nomad's chain has 102 links. 1/16" wear over 12" gives 0.52" for 102 links = half link ==> 1/8" wear = 1 link).


I was just going to remove a link from the existing chain, then adjust the EBB until it was taut. However, your post has reminded me that I really ought to check the current chain for elongation. Would be a bit surpised if I needed a new chain already though, only have 4200km on the bike (admittedly, some significant winter km in there).

[sbseven]

Sorry my bad! I'd assumed you were asking about the EBB and your lack of adjustment. 

To answer your question, I do use split links (when the chain comes with one) but don't usually undo them. They're just a convenient way of initially joining the chain!

When mending punctures, I lay the bike on it's side and I always remove/refit the wheel with the bike the right way up. Split links can also be difficult to release in the field when covered in oil and you'll get even more oil on your hands!

I also only ever wipe down chains in situ. IMO, they're too cheap to warrant removing and properly degreasing the links and bushes etc. to prolong life. I just change chains when 12 (taut) links show between 1/16" and 1/8" wear.

Your 4200 km chain should still be good. I'd try another brand if it's approaching 1/8"...

Shaun

[PhilD]

Just measured it with my chain wear tool...replacement almost needed. Think I'll take the opportunity to get a new chain, rotate the EBB to the back, give the bike a good cleaning after winter and try one of those non-sticky lubes. Weekend job!

[stutho]

I like a split link for times when I am cleaning the bike  but other than that it serves no purpose.  Some claim they are a weak link in the chain but I have never had a problem.  

At 4200km your chain is almost new!  I got more than 16000km! (on road)  Personally I TOTAL ignore advice about switching chains at 1/8 " extension.  This advice IS true for derailer set-ups, but for bikes that are using a single chain ring and single sprocket it is cheaper to keep to the same chain.  Wait until the sprocket or chain ring is showing SUBSTANTIAL ware on one side.  At that point buy a new chain and reverse the sprocket and chain ring.  I have more than 25000km and I still using the original sprocket and chain ring and chain number 2 is still going strong.


  
    

[travelling]

I've only ever found a split link helpfull at replacement time and even then on the motorbike

[sbseven]

Just measured it with my chain wear tool...replacement almost needed.

Does the steel rule agree? Sometimes chain-checkers can be a bit conservative.

Think I'll take the opportunity to get a new chain, rotate the EBB to the back

That may not work. See here: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=1437.0

[sbseven]

At 4200km your chain is almost new!  I got more than 16000km! (on road)  Personally I TOTAL ignore advice about switching chains at 1/8 " extension.  This advice IS true for derailer set-ups, but for bikes that are using a single chain ring and single sprocket it is cheaper to keep to the same chain.  Wait until the sprocket or chain ring is showing SUBSTANTIAL ware on one side.  At that point buy a new chain and reverse the sprocket and chain ring.  I have more than 25000km and I still using the original sprocket and chain ring and chain number 2 is still going strong.

It might be close cost wise in the long run (although you probably still win). I'm going to try changing chains at around 6000-7000km (before 1/8" wear). After five chains at £10 and 32000km, I'd expect the chainring (£25) and sprocket especially (£25) to still be in reasonable condition, as I think most of the wear will occur after the chain is beyond 1/16". Time will tell of course. 

I would also not be happy wearing the sprocket teeth down too much and possibly breaking teeth trying to get the sprocket off.

[PhilD]

Update. Took the chain off this morning and gave it a thorough de-gunking in a jam-jar of white spirit, and gave the chain ring and sprocket a thorough cleaning too - so much easier to get things clean with the chain off the bike!

Anyway, I took out a link and tried to fit the chain back on the bike. It was too short, and wouldn't join. So I put the link back (now there's a job I never want to do up a mountain side in a rainstorm) and took another look. Turns out I had made a boob - the EBB wasn't at its maximum extension at all! I had only inspected it visually before, but with the bolts slackened off I was able to rotate it forwards and backwards easily. By watching the chain as I did this it was a doddle to find the real point of maximum tension, and with the EBB at that point the chain was at a nice tension again. I was surprised by just how much adjustment the system allows. When I put the link back it was a bit stiff, so I had to give it a tweak with a screwdriver. After doing that, and with some dry lube applied, everything seems to be running smoothly (and cleanly  ).

Looking forward to taking the bike out for a spin tomorrow, looks like a sunny day.

[geocycle]

Glad you are all sorted now.  I agree about it being easier degunking with the chain off but I am coming to the conclusion that a simple wipe down and relube is really all that's needed on a rohloff.  I've also started using prolink which is a thin lube that is supposed to clean and lube.  It's a bit early to say if it is working but it is an interesting idea.

Whenever I 'break' a chain I always leave the rivet in one side.  It's a nightmare trying to get it back in otherwise.

[PhilD]

Whenever I 'break' a chain I always leave the rivet in one side.  It's a nightmare trying to get it back in otherwise.

Good tip, I'll remember that for next time.