Dynohub compatible computer.

[Cake]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if anyone can recommend, from experience, a wired computer that does not suffer interference from their SON28 dynohub?  I'm asking because i am certain my wireless one will not tolerate
the fields generated by the hub.

Thanks in advance,

Gary.

[julk]

I have a Cateye CC-MC100W Micro Wireless Cycle Computer mounted on my handlebars and run a handlebar mounted Solidlights or Supernova E3 front light driven off a SON dynohub.

I had interference between the Solidlights unit and the wireless computer, separating them by 6 inches reduces the interference considerably.
Running the E3 alongside the wireless computer I notice there is no interference.

The fact that one front light works with no interference implies that the wiring to the light is not causing any interference to the computer on the handlebars or computer sensor which is located by the wiring on the fork.

From my experience, the interference is coming from an led front light unit and its electronics, not from the SON and its wiring.

What front light are you using?

[freddered]

Any wired computer should be OK as long as the sensor is mounted a few inches up the fork leg.

Be aware that Cateye Strada computers don't have a release button, this means that should you knock it whilst cycling it can pop-out and get crushed under back wheel (I know, it happened).

Pity becauseit was a really nice design.  All my other Cateye's have been fine, just choose the functions you need.  I keep it as cheap as possible, I only really use trip distance and the clock.

[Cake]

Thanks chaps, useful stuff.

Julk, i have a Schmidt eDelux on order, and this will be mounted on the fork crown.  Its interesting what you say about the light causing the problem and not the hub or its wiring.  I have a cheapo l.e.d. light which sends the computer potty when it is in flashing mode, but fine when constant.  I had assumed that the A.C. nature of the generator would produce a similar effect.  I'll have to wait and see!

I have read many good things about the Schmidt and liked the fact that it doesn't seem to blind oncomers.  I couldn't really see the difference between the  E3s' symmetrical and asymmetrical lenses from the images on the Supernova site.  Both of these lights seem more than adequate for the job required though! 

I perhaps could have waited for the Solidlights XB2 to become available for consideration if i had a little more patience...

[julk]

Gary,

That eDelux looks a cracking front light, they all seem to be on back order just now.

I would try it with your existing computer before trying a replacement computer. Fork crown mounting should put the light unit far enough away from the computer components. Being German, it may have been designed keep wireless interference to a minimum.

The E3 asymmetrical has an upper beam cut off, the lense and reflector effectively redirecting the upper third of the light beam, more designed for not blinding oncoming road users than seeing everything down a dark lane. Having said that, I have one and it is very bright.
The Solidlights beam is symmetrical and needs pointing down to avoid blinding oncoming road users, the XB2 version is much brighter and more focused than the original, but still spills a lot which makes it good when you need to see to the sides. Better for country riding than city riding.

[pastafarian]

Thx for bringing this up. This thing about interference is news to me. Am having trouble with my wireless. Does it matter if the light is on or off?

I have the same wireless as Julk (cc-mc100w), SON hub and E3 lighting. Spinning the wheel indoors, the computer seemed to be too far away from the transmitter, so I've now zip-tied it to the fork. When riding outdoors, the computer stops responding after a couple of miles, whether the light is turned on or off. Guess it could also be the climate (around 0 Celsius) or low battery in the transmitter. What do you guys think?

[john28july]

Hello all,
This subject comes up regularly on Audax forums.
My experience is that all my bikes have fitted wired computers due to erratic behaviour when Schmidt or Shimano lighting hubs are used. I say used as in switched on. When off no interference at all. I think it is due to electrical magnetism or suchlike. The only answer is wired in my opinion rather than wireless.
John.

[julk]

pastafarian,

I ride with my lights on, and everything is working ok when using the E3. The computer is 53cm away from the transmitter. Cateye suggest 70cm is the maximum distance.
Using the Solidlights, I only get zero computer interference with the light switched off.
I suspect that your batteries need replacing. Try to avoid handling the batteries with bare hands and keep them very clean and free of grease as you replace them.

As John says, the safest route is wired computers, but as you have a wireless one it is worth trying new batteries before giving up on it.

[pastafarian]

As John says, the safest route is wired computers, but as you have a wireless one it is worth trying new batteries before giving up on it.

Thank you. I will give it a try.

[Cake]

I will certainly wait and see if the wireless one i have works first, but i won't be at all surprised if suffers interference.  From all these comments i gather that wired computers generally suffer from no such problems.

My wireless job starts giving erroneous readings when the temperature gets to about -2 Celsius - but then i don't operate very well in those temperatures either, so there you go!

When i eventually get the light (late March hopefully) i will post my findings.

Cheers all,

Gary.