Dia Compe 287V Brake Levers

[freddered]

I am in the process of fitting a set of Drops with Dia Compe 287V Levers.  They are supplied with 2 sets of 'Noodles', one large, adjustable set for the V-Brake end and , I assume, another set of smaller ones for the 287V Brake Lever end.

I can't figure out how to get a decent fit using small Noodles. They just seem to stick out at a strange angle.  In the end I left them off and tried it without and it seems OK.  The action is a bit 'sticky' but I was told it would be.  I'll bend the return springs a bit to give it more pull-back.

Does anyone have experience of these brake levers?  Do the Noodles give a smoother action?  Is there something obvious I'm missing ?

I'll also phone SJSC tomorrow for guidance I think.

[stutho]

Hi I had exactly the same problem.  Initially I tried filling away some of the casing (where the noodle exits) which did make the noodle sit better but still wasn’t right.  

So next I got out the drill.  And threw away the noodles.

If you look at where the noodle normally sits there are 2 drilled holes. 1 fits the noodle the other is below the first and doesn’t do anything (and is blind – doesn’t penetrate). It is this hole we are interested in.
With a delicate touch increase the diameter of the hole so that a normal brake cable outer can site in it. DON’T increase the depth only the width of this hole, you won’t need to increase it much maybe ½ mm.
 
Next in the middle of the blind hole drill a SMALL hole all the way through.  This hole must be big enough for the brake cable inner to pass smoothly but small enough for the outer to be stopped.

Don’t put a cap on the outer of the brake cable and oil it well (pref. with Cable Magic) – push into prepared hole – job done.

This worked really well for me and my levers have no noticeable drag.  The weak spring in the levers was enough to return the cable to position. The only problem I had was that the outer kept coming out of the hole while I was mounting the levers.  Once lever is mounted (with outer in situ) tape outer in position with electrical tape.

Disclaimer all this worked for me – I don’t know if it will work for you, try at your own risk.

[john28july]

Hello,
This is a simple case I think of misunderstanding of the 'problem;
I have used these brake levers and the short tubes push into the rear of the brake lever. The tubes hang off the bars at an angle. Gentle turn twist and press them closer to the bars. Tape over. Fit cables. Job done.
If this is not the problem you have, then I guess you do have a fault with your supplied items.
Best regrads,
John.

www.pbase.com/john28july

[freddered]

I fitted them now, the stick-out end is now buried in insulation tape, inner tube and cork tape.

I have to say it's a real achievement in crap design by Dia Compe, why they can't just have a permanent cable guide inside there is beyond me.

I had to splay the V-Brake springs a bit to beef up the return pull and grease the cables in order to get a smooth action but it seems OK.  Will test out the power for the first time tomorrow (1st time to ride with new drops fitted also...feels more like a bike already).

[stutho]

Well done, I agrea the design is Vpoor

[freddered]

I think there is a real gap in the market for Shimano or Tektro...and the like to introduce a decent design.  ie.  Better cable routing and better return springs.  Will post some photos of finished bike tomorrow (if it stops raining long enough).

[stutho]

Freddered:
I have got my 287V running very smooth with no cable friction.  I didn’t have to splay the V springs, cable was returning to position from the small 287V spring without v brakes attached.  However I shouldn’t have had to re-engineer like I did.  

Very poor design agreed.

Have you been out for a ride with the drops yet?  Where did you mount the shifter?

Stutho

[freddered]

Drops fitted, shifter mounted on accessory bar, new short stem fitted (original was too long for drops at 110mm, this is 50mm).

Check it out.

www.geocities.com/freddered1/drops1.jpg
www.geocities.com/freddered1/drops2.jpg

I've done a couple of 15 mile rides and I prefer it immediately.  I'm not saying drops are better than flats, I'm just saying that I've got used to a certain style of riding that involves using the brake hoods for most of my riding and especially climbing out of saddle (if your thighs are strong enough to cope sat down then congratulations, mine aren't on some occasions).

Changing gear is less convenient than either STI levers or gripshift on Flat Bars.  However, it's not that bad.  If you plan on racing flat out then it is NOT an acceptable position for a shifter.   The drops let me go back to my usual technique of standing up and 'stomping up' small inclines without bothering to change gear.  

The new brake levers are OK, I can lock up the back wheel if required, not as effortlessly as with original 'flats' levers but it's more than adequate.

Also because I used new brake cables and left the old ones attached to original bars, I can swap the flats back in (for a family ride or rougher terrain maybe) in 10 minutes.  Just a matter of sliding old stem/bars on, threading rear brake cable through guides and, if I want to, sliding gripshift back on.  Best of both worlds I think.

[rickerlove]

Hi Freddered,

I'm about to install The Diacompe levers with drops but have a litle problem figuring out how to get the extra stem height.  What adaptors are you using to achieve this?  Also what is that adaptor holding your shifter?  it looks nice and neat and much better and lighter than a cut down bar and stem.

Looks great.  I just have to figure out how to get my drops up to seat level..