rohloff newbie

[jcabuckley]

hi guys, firstly can i confirm that i'm singing from the same hymn sheet..... the left rear vee brake has the rohloff cable guide, firstly you twist the hub connector bits to seperate them and then undoo the 2 grub screws on the upper part, is this right so far? i have managed to undoo 3 of the 4 grub screws but typically the 4th one rounded! i still couldn't see how this could work though. Is it just a case of me being really thick! lol. some more input would be great and thanks again so far.

[davefife]

I had to replace my cable outer on one of the rohloff control cables, both small hex grub screws on the bayonet fitting rounded, holding up the job while i sprayed penetrating oil onto it at periodic intervals over a day.  My vain hope being that i broke the seal.
The problem here is the alloy the bayonet is made of, you get a reaction with the steel of the grub screw and being small you cant get enough torque on a hex key to break it, hence rounding.

I went to an extreme after failing with the oil.

After protecting the frame; went to the bayonet with my small pencil flame blowtorch on a low flame setting, after 30 seconds heating i got the pliers onto the bayonet to get the hex key in and the bayonet.......melted in the grip of the pliers.  Onto the phone to sjs for a bayonet fitting, you get both halves, seems unless you do coat liberally in copper grease, these parts are consumables.

I had a similar metalalurgy experience in the 80s with a 2nd hand vitus aluminium frame that had the h/bar stem frozen in place, making it non-adjustable!

[jcabuckley]

ah the lovely mix of steel and aluminium, gives you a warm feeling inside.

[jcabuckley]

okay, had another go and two of the grub screws have seized, one in each bayonet so i'm screwed doing it that way! aparently there is another way...... can anyone help me? all i want to be able to do is remove my v-brakes and swap them for some more powerful xtr ones. there's a pint in it for ya!

[jcabuckley]

Just bit the bullet and ordered the spares from sjs, oh well...........

[stutho]

Hi jabuckley,
(I PMed you yesterday but I don't think you got my message so I will echo it here)

You are right – you don’t need to remove the grub screws on the bayonets to remove the V's

Step 1 Disconnect both bayonet (quarter twist the two halves of each connector)
Step 2 Fully unscrew both adjustment screws on the cable guide
Step 3 Using a 4mm Allen Key undo the cable guide - the Allen key WILL fit past the gear cables
Step 4 Remove V brakes
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Re-assembly
Step 5 Hold the cable guide at the correct angle with a 13mm spanner while tightening with the 4mm Allen key.
Step 6 Fully screw in both adjustment screws (take care here it is easy to cross thread)
Step 7 Reconnect the bayonets
Step 8 Re-adjusts the adjustment screws to give about 2mm play in the shifter)

Stuart

[geocycle]

Stutho, as usual that's really excellent and timely advice.  I'm in the process of swapping to avid ultimates and would have exactly the same issue later this week.  Thanks for your contributions to this forum.

[stutho]

Good luck with the Ultimates - I have them on my bike.  Reversing the rear brake noodle really helps cable routing.

[freddered]

Stutho

I just posted the same question on Brakes section.

I am looking at the Avid Ultimate to try to help out my Dia-Compe 287v (****e) levers on the front wheel.

Before I spend >£60 on 1 pair of brakes I want to make sure I get some benefit.

Do you get some noticebale benefit?

[jcabuckley]

thanks for that stutho, i ordered the replacements this morning but i'll give this a go and the others will be fine for spares. thanks again!