Does it really stand up to the abrasion of cycling so well that it will last decades?
In my experience, the answer is "Yes, generally", but how how long depends on a variety of factors including whether or not there are synthetics woven in a wool blend or if it is 100% wool, abrasion (say against a rough-textured saddle or a smooth one), and fabric weave, wearing frequency, and how often and by what means garments are laundered.
I can say most of the wool items I purchased 30-odd years ago are still intact and usable despite hard and continued use over many years. I wore them during the day when touring, then slept in them as pajamas at night; the same garments were worn on many, many day rides as well. My wool tights have finally worn so thin they have semi-transparent places when I hold them up the light and have parted company in some places -- look like little moth holes, but have simply been worn till small holes have formed where the fibers parted. They have held their color (as have my jerseys), and generally held their shape, given they were never as skin-tight as my lycra shorts, tights, and jerseys. I don't mind as much as 10% nylon in my wool-blend jerseys as it does seem to help with shape retention, but I can also feel the "plastic" compared to my all-wool jerseys which get a little more baggy in shape over time.
I always launder my wool clothing in cold water with Woolite brand soap, then roll in a towel to sop up extra water (no wringing) before hanging to dry. This seems to have worked well long-term.
One of the great benefits of wool for touring is it remains virtually odor-free (except for a sometimes "wooly" smell). The fibers absorb and hold perspiration so it it doesn't "sour" and become smelly with bacteria. It really is good in a wide temperature range, feeling cooler than expected in hot weather and nicely warm in cold weather. I always preferred SuperWash or Merino wool for its soft, non-scratchy/non-itchy texture. It remains insulative and warm when wet but takes a long time to dry in touring conditions and weighs a lot if it does get wet.
Moths do kill wool by laying eggs and then the larvae chew on the wool on their way to becoming moths themselves. Storing in zippered plastic bags helps. I hate the smell of mothballs (naphtha), but some people use those with success. In recent years, I've found the weak point of some wool cycling garments is the elastic used in waistbands and cuffs. Elastic isn't what it used to be.
Best,
Dan.
