Wrecked the plug in The Plug

[keleher]

The female end, w/ four wires, that threads up the stem into the cap. I need to replace this female end. Anyone know the part number?  Radio shack?

Thanks,pete

[Danneaux]

Hi Pete!

It has been awhile since I looked, but I believe Tout Terrain use a 4-lead Molex wire-to-board connector, as shown here:
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?key=wire_to_board_connectors&channel=products&selectedKey=1 , but I don't recall which one at the moment (it's late enough to be well into tomorrow here as I write this).

If it is the cord end that is damaged, you are lucky since the fix is cheap. I believe Tout Terrain also offer replacement cords if you contact them.

You can also hack the cables, using 4-strand telephone wire and the proper connectors (Fun fact: These wires normally carry low-current phone line voltages that are nominally 48VDC in the US, though ringer voltage can run from 40-90VDC. With the phone off the hook, the voltage drops to 3-9VDC depending on loop length. The Unavailable Service "Brack-brack-brack" signal is actually an AC pulse sent by the exchange).

I'm guessing there was insufficient vertical clearance/spacing when the tension bolt was set? The connected connector requires more clearance than it first appears when checking without the cord, and it pays to be generous with the spacing.  I was nearly caught out myself, but spotted the problem just in time during my first dry test assembly on Sherpa.

Despite TT's suggestion to set headset tension with the original top-cap, there is no problem doing so with The Plug2, provided there is sufficient clearance for the connector when taking up the slack. The first install is the toughest in this regard, since that is where the clearance is set, so yes, on first install it pays to adjust the headset with the original cap. TT doesn't make this distinction or the reasoning behind it completely clear in the instructions.

Warning: Similar damage can occur if the top cap is rotated with the cable in place. It doesn't take much of a twist to do it.

The TTP2 is a really robust unit once in place; it is the installation that can be problematic. In any case, I'm sorry you had problems. A new Molex or similar wire-to-board connector should set you right. With luck, you should be able to remove the existing wire from the tiny barbs and reinstall it in the new connector. When you do, make sure all wires are captured in the connector barbs before plugging it in, or it will jam and make removal problematic. The unit disassembles with a firm pull on the lower connector end; never yank on the wires. I filled my connector interface with high-dialectric silicone grease to ensure smooth removal in future.

Best,

Dan.

[keleher]

Hi Pete!

I'm guessing there was insufficient vertical clearance/spacing when the tension bolt was set? The connected connector requires more clearance than it first appears when checking without the cord, and it pays to be generous with the spacing.  I was nearly caught out myself, but spotted the problem just in time during my first dry test assembly on Sherpa.

EDIT: Much sillier than that. I didn't want to yank out by wires, but couldn't get a purchase w/ fingers. Attempted to use needlenose pliers and ended up tearing two of the wires.

I filled my connector interface with high-dialectric silicone grease to ensure smooth removal in future.

Sounds iffy unless you *know* that the grease won't conduct. Is a high dialectric constant characteristic of all silicone greases? I understand the silicone part, but who knows what else is in there?

[Danneaux]

Sounds iffy unless you *know* that the grease won't conduct.

Hi Pete!

I've had good luck using it, but the safest course is to avoid it if you are uncomfortable or unsure.

Look for "spark plug boot release" at the auto parts store and "board connector release" at the electronics supply store. See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease Note the caution here:

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low

The connectors can always be fitted dry, but the reliability of the connection will generally be improved and the future release of the connectors is made much easier as well. I use it on my SON28 dynamo contacts and it does well on both counts there where the spade connectors fit with a great deal of friction if fitted dry. Pin corrosion is not an issue if the pins and sockets are gold-plated, but connector friction can become problematic as the plasticizers outgas over time; the dialectric grease serves as a barrier to this kind of decay.

A well-meant caution: If you wear contact lenses, be *sure* you wear nitrile or plastic gloves to apply the high-dielectric silicone grease or it will work well into your skin and can transfer to the lenses and can contaminate them even weeks later. This is why the high-dialectric grease is used on mechanical connections rather than soldered ones; it is very difficult to remove completely for resoldering.

Best,

Dan.

[keleher]

I'm not getting any replies from Tout Terrain (nor email to Peter White, might have to actually call).  Using a magnifying class, this part appears to say something like "AMP 806" on it, but that's probably wrong (neither my eyes nor the magnifying class work very well).

Any ideas?  I don't think there's a parts supply store in DC that I can just walk into waving it for replacement. I'm sure mouser would have it, but I'd need an actual part number first.

[Danneaux]

Hi Pete!

Sorry for the delay; I had to zip over to the Coast to attend to a problem after receiving a call from the village fire department and City Hall; one of the smoke/fire detectors in the family vacation cabin shorted out, causing the alarm to go off continuously. Sorted, and I'm back.

Turns out these connectors are not Molex, but TE Connectivity AMP; TE is a division of Tyco Electronics.

There is a staggering array of subminiature wire-to-board connectors (thousands, truly!), but the model I think you want is this one:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=10953&M=PPROP&P=&BML=19231,19222,19293&LG=1&PG=1&IDS=512407,512409,512405,512406,512414,512408,512410,512342,512412,512413,512343,512344,512315,512415,512316,512317,512318,512319,512320,512321&N=14

This is TE Internal Number: 84941-4, a 2mm AMP CT Connector. The tipoff is the 2mm pitch between connectors, as shown in the engineering drawing referenced here: http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Customer+Drawing%7F84941%7FO%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_CD_84941_O.pdf%7F84941-4

**You will want to check this for yourself, as this recommendation is the result of a quick check**

And...yes! Mouser Electronics does carry TE as well, starting here: http://www.mouser.com/teampconnectors/

I have attached photos of my own undamaged connector for reference.

Hope this helps. Please let me know if this does the job for you, Pete.

Best,

Dan.

[keleher]

Dan, you are awesome. I've got to say, though, that it doesn't really look like the drawings TE has. No matter, I'd try it anyway, but I can't find anywhere that will sell it. Tyco says no distributer, and mouser doesn't seem to have it.

I think I'm going to have to get on the phone to tout terrain, they haven't answer my email (though their site's contact form).

Thanks,
pete

Hi Pete!

Sorry for the delay; I had to zip over to the Coast to attend to a problem after receiving a call from the village fire department and City Hall; one of the smoke/fire detectors in the family vacation cabin shorted out, causing the alarm to go off continuously. Sorted, and I'm back.

Turns out these connectors are not Molex, but TE Connectivity AMP; TE is a division of Tyco Electronics.

There is a staggering array of subminiature wire-to-board connectors (thousands, truly!), but the model I think you want is this one:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=10953&M=PPROP&P=&BML=19231,19222,19293&LG=1&PG=1&IDS=512407,512409,512405,512406,512414,512408,512410,512342,512412,512413,512343,512344,512315,512415,512316,512317,512318,512319,512320,512321&N=14

This is TE Internal Number: 84941-4, a 2mm AMP CT Connector. The tipoff is the 2mm pitch between connectors, as shown in the engineering drawing referenced here: 2mm AMP CT Connectors

**You will want to check this for yourself, as this recommendation is the result of a quick check**

And...yes! Mouser Electronics does carry TE as well, starting here: http://www.mouser.com/teampconnectors/

I have attached photos of my own undamaged connector for reference.

Hope this helps. Please let me know if this does the job for you, Pete.

Best,

Dan.