Danneaux's Nomad

[Danneaux]

that has to be the final touch

Hi jags!

Welll...I have a few more details in mind. For example, I still need to wire-in my head- and taillights and the charging system as I did on Sherpa. I should have done so long before this, but other things intervened and I haven't had the chance. I'm still nibbling away at the Chainglider details with Hebie, and *then* I'll likely be done! 

Eh, no...wait. I'm still investigating little pads for the brake hoods as well. I am evaluating a couple, but they suffer from adhesive problems. Still working on that.

Gettin' there. Thanks for the kind words; I'm really pleased with the result, and that was some nice tape to work with. Fingers crossed it will hold up in the long run.

All the best,

Dan.

[Andybg]

Looking fantastic Dan. Having the gearshifter on the accessory bar really makes the bars look very clean. How are you finding it in practice? Are you still happy with the setup?. Love the card with the gear ratios on! Maybe you will get round to one day making a new Rohloff shifter with the gear inches on it rather than the gear numbers. Or maybe by then you will have moved to gear cms

Andy

[Andre Jute]

Nice clean installation, Dan. That gear knob is near enough when you're riding the hoods. It loooks like those bars came from the factory with that tape on. -- Andre Jute

[moodymac]

Dan,

  I thought you had a bar for a bag on the stem.  Also, what is that black (of course) box that some of your wiring is passing through?

Absolutely beautiful bike.

Tom

[John Saxby]

Very nicely finished indeed, Dan. The fotos also show your over-de-bar mounting of the Rohloff shifter very well -- leads me to think that, with rando bars, the shifter would be even closer to the same plane of the forward bend in the bars.

Nice to find products with No Icky-Sticky Residue, eh?  Whenever I can, for that very reason, I use gaffer's tape (which I get from Lee valley Tools) in preference to duct tape or old-style cloth friction tape. (Both of those still have their uses -- duct tape + epoxy for emerg repairs to canoe hulls, and cloth friction tape for the blades of my hockey sticks...)

Saw your brake-bands, too.  May think of using those for my Click-Stand, in preference to the C-S bungees-with-tabs.

Lotsa good detail--thanks!

J.

[jags]

ah if only i could post photos of my sherpa 

[Danneaux]

Hi All!

Really quick, 'cos I have to leave in a few moments to check on the little cabin at Yachats on the Oregon Coast (look to see what I need for some wall-work there and to see if the guy I hired to cut the lawn...has): I'll answer some of the questions more fully on my return.

Tom -- also really quick -- I am running a 55mm Thorn Accessory T-bar (the kind usually used to mount a Rohloff shifter) low on the steerer as a handlebar bag mount. That little plastic box is the mounting bracket for the Ortlieb HB bag. The upper T-bar (the one where I actually have the shifter mounted) is the standard Thorn 105mm Accessory T-bar, intended for...accessories! With my particular setup, this let me move the HB bag as close as possible to the steerer for minimum effect on handling, while not obscuring access to the lid or pinching my fingers (*lots* of clearance between fingers and bag, even when operating the interrupter brake levers). The longer T-bar on top works with the head tube angle to place the shifter above and slightly forward of the handlebars, so there are no finger-hand clearance problems there, either. I can and do operate the shifter either from the end like a doorknob or by rolling it as I would if it were mounted on straight 'bars -- best of both worlds!

Mounting the shifter to a T-bar leaves the handlebars free and clear and allows me to (fairly quickly) swap from drops to straight/comfort 'bars as desired if I wish at some point.

Thanks so much for the kind words, all.

Best,

Dan. (...who is about to see if the Coastal weather forecasts are correct, but will take a rain jacket in case they aren't)

[Andybg]

Ok - who gave Dan the day off?

[Danneaux]

Hi All!

I'm back; things at Yachats looked pretty good, but it is coming up on another lawn cutting, so I'll call the guy. I also had a chance to survey needed wall work. I have to replace some of the paneling disturbed after an electrical upgrade this last Fall, and make an access panel so I can run extra, discrete circuits in future. I'll get it all drawn out and figured, then head back to do the actual job. Meanwhile, to answer Andy's question...

Having the gearshifter on the accessory bar really makes the bars look very clean. How are you finding it in practice? Are you still happy with the setup?

Andy, so far it has met and exceeded my expectations. As you point out, it makes the handlebars really clean and leaves them unobstructed. As Andre pointed out, it really isn't much of a reach from the brake hoods, and I can actuate it by rolling (as when the shifter is mounted on a straight handlebar), with my fingertips, or from the end (as I would approach and grasp a door knob). I can spin the shifter as many as seven clicks at a time, so it neatly addresses my concerns about Rohloff's even gearing when in the lower range. I'm used to logarithmic [wider] spacing between my lower derailleur gears; with the Rohloff, I'm free to "skip" gears by spinning more than one in the brief moment before I start pedaling again.

I'm so pleased with being able to access the shifter from the end, I think that alone would convince me to mount it on a T-bar even if I weren't running drops. It just seems a more natural movement for me, and I feel like I have a bit more leverage to operate it and it does allow for finger-spinning of the shifter knob. If I can find the time, I'll take a video showing the various ways I shift it, then post it to my YouTube channel (TheSherpaRider).

My favorite road-bike shifters are mounted on the downtube (I've never used "brifters"), so any slight delay in reaching for the Rohloff on a T-bar is lightning-fast in comparison. The T-bar shifter is as close as bar-end shifters and even more conveniently located for me and take place as quickly as they did on Sherpa with bar-end shifters. Shifter placement is a highly individual preference, but this setup has worked out very well for me to date. Having tried the shifter on a T-bar below the handlebars, I prefer this location. Besides, the upper location provides a handy platform for the GPS, the SkyMounti inclinometer, and room on the left side for the Rowi camera clamp that holds the GoPro HD Hero2.

Several of you have written to ask for a detail shot of the setup from the front, so I've attached a couple photos showing it from that angle. There's a lot going on up front. For those who have asked, the gadgets and accessories you see are:
• CueClip cue sheet holder: http://www.cueclip.com/CueClip.html
• SkyMounti inclinometer: http://www.skymounti.com/html/gb.html
• Avenir compass-bell: http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-78-27-022-Compass-Bell/dp/B001C3EFPU
• PlanetBike Protege 9.0 wired bike computer: http://ecom1.planetbike.com/8002.html
• Tektro RL520 Aero v-brake levers: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektro-rl520-aero-v-brake-levers-black-prod14956/
• Tektro RL740 interrupter/cross-top auxiliary brake levers: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektro-rl740-top-mount-v-brake-lever-24-mm-od-handlebar-prod25060/
• BikeBrake brake-holding bands (4): http://www.bikebrake.com/
• CatEye BC-100 nylon bottle cages (2): http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/BC-100/
• Zιfal Magnum 1l water bottles (2): http://www.amazon.com/Zefal-Magnum-Black-Water-Bottle/dp/B0044Q9NX6/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
• Garmin Oregon 400T GPS: https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=14904&ra=true
• Garmin Bike/Cart mount: https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=11411
• (QBP by Kalloy UNO) Dimension 60mm x 26.0mm riser stem, inverted: http://harriscyclery.net/product/dimension-threadless-stem-60mm-125-degree-black-1-1-8-26.0-sku-sm2356-qc49.htm
• Trek/Bontrager SSR VR-C 26.0mm x 44cm compact handlebars: http://bontrager.com/model/09170
• Serfas' Textured Ultra Grip 'Bar Tape: https://www.serfas.com/products/view/253/referer:products%7Cindex%7Cbike-accessories%7Cbar-tape
• Velox black rubber expanding bar plugs (2) http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/gt41.htm
• Ortlieb Ultimate 5 HB bag mounting bracket
• Thorn 55mm Accessory T-bar: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-accessory-bar-t-shaped-55-mm-extension-0-deg-prod11041/
• Thorn 105mm Accessory T-bar: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-accessory-bar-t-shaped-105-mm-extension-0-deg-prod11040/

Having the shifter on the T-bar makes shifting an easy but deliberate act. "Deliberate" in this case means it encourages the same sort of momentary pause I employed when friction-shifting derailleur drivetrains over the last 35 or so years. As a result, my Rohloff box has a pretty easy life.

One of my goals with the T-bar mounted shifter was to future-proof the bike to a degree. When Andy Blance and I were discussing my setup during the Thorn build, he expressed a concern that I might like drops now, but wondered what I would do when I got old (Never!  ) and might wish to use straight or comfort handlebars. By getting the 590 Medium frame and mounting the shifter on a T-bar, I can accommodate anything from drops (with a 60mm stem) to straight or comfort handlebars without having to alter the shifting; a change in stem extension will do. A cable-coupler would allow me to swap handlebar types fairly quickly.

Best,

Dan. (...who can't handle bars but does fine with handlebars)

[Andybg]

Thanks for the update Dan. As you know I am cosidering purchasing a MK2 Nomad later in the year and considering going for a medium frame as you have to give me a longer term freedom on bars used. I am seriously considering copying your setup of the shifter although planning on going with track bars and Ergon GP5 bar ends. It will let me keep the barends the same length and avoid the hand half on/half off the shifter that is the norm.

The only other idea idea I have had in terms of making the changeover from one bar type to the other is the addition of a clamping spacer on the steerer so I can remove the whole handle bar/stem setup without affecting the headset.

All still at the planning stage but sometimes that is the best part.

Andy

[Danneaux]

All still at the planning stage but sometimes that is the best part.

It sure is, Andy -- lots of fun to be had!

If there's anything I can do to help, give a shout. I think your proposed setup would work well. If you rarely ride on the drops, the track bar/Ergon GP5 setup would essentially duplicate an on-hoods riding position, just as you mentioned in our communications. I do feel it is well worth a try. Speaking for myself, I would miss being able to hover my fingers over the brake levers while on the bar-ends as I do when riding the brake hoods. That doesn't seem to be a problem for most people who ride straight 'bars and bar-ends, so it is probably just my unfamiliarity with other setups that would make me uneasy with it.

Beyond individual preference and ergonomics, the only drawback I can see with my setup for someone else is it requires moving one's hand from the 'bar to shift...but that is also true if most of the time is spent riding on bar-ends; a move is still required to slide the hand inward to the flat-bar grip to actuate the Rohloff shifter. Depending on setup, it is possible the reach is could be about the same with either setup, and perhaps even a bit closer with my upper T-bar arrangement over drops.

As mentioned, being able to access the shifter from the end (as when grasping a doorknob) is a big positive factor in my use. If the weather holds, I'll try to shoot that video showing how I use the shifter on the T-bar. I think that will go far in deciding if such a setup is right for you.

I think the clamping spacer is a terrific addition, completely avoiding any effect on headset adjustment, just as you said. If you are running a lower T-bar to mount a handlebar bag or lights, it would have the same effect as the clamping spacer. For what they offer, the 105mm T-bars are pretty light at 119.3g/4.2oz complete with end-caps and bolts, and the 55mm ones are even lighter.

All the best,

Dan.

[il padrone]

Looking all very good, and remarkably professionally finished off there Dan. You have the lot on your bars, I must admit. I had some of these extras (Skymounti inclinomater, a compass - albeit tiny one on a thermometer tag) on my bars. However over time these have dropped off/broken, but now with the Garmin I have a compass, and the Cateye Adventure computer has an inclinometer as well as a thermometer - although a bit subject to error in the full sun. You may actually be able to rationalise the compass and Skymounti

Another thing -  a lot of my riding friends use rubber bands for a hand-brake. I used one myself for a few years but found - a) they often did not hold the brake tight enough and b) they eventually failed due to UV. Another option you may be able to use when the rubber bands you have fail could be what I now use. I have a very old toe-strap that sits looped on my bars and I just place it around the brake and tighten. No slipping, it holds the brake tight and lasts much longer than rubber. You could easily have one looped around the bars next to your cycle computer, and slip it across to lock on the front interupter lever. I really only find a need for the one brake locked on for parking and the front is the one to do.

Just a couple of ideas 

[Danneaux]

Just a couple of ideas

Good suggestions, Pete!

I'm hoping the BikeBrake bands will last a bit longer; they're supposed to be made of a synthetic rubber compound that is UV resistant (I got mine for USD$1 apiece on a closeout last year). As with the Click-Stand bungees, I do find I have to block up both brakes if I am packing a heavy 50kg touring load, but that's a lot of weight for anything! If they fail, then your idea of using a toe strap is just about failure-proof and an ideal alternative to keep in mind; those toe straps often come in handy for lashing duties of all sorts while on-tour. I typically tuck one in my bags just in case of need, so I will have it handy if the bands fail.

Strange as it may seem, I added the compass *because* I have the Garmin! The compass in my particular Garmin consumes the batteries at a faster rate, and having a magnetic external version saves them and the small delay while it gets a fix. Also I generally leave the GPS off till I need it, so the bell-mounted compass is helpful for general "directioning" and following rough headings.

Yes, thermometers of any sort -- and especially those digital ones on computers or watches -- can be subject to apparent or outright error depending on sun exposure. They measure the temperature where *they* are. One of my great joys over the last 25 or so years has been finding and exploiting microclimates when touring. For a long time, I took a little zipper-pull thermometer along to measure temperatures when I stopped for breaks, and I soon caught on to the huge variations in temperatures depending in exposure to wind and sun-load. Sitting on the sunny side of trees, sheltered from the wind, temperatures were often much warmer than just a meter or so to either side. I began to learn what made a "warm spot" and "cold spot" and exploited them to my ends. Stone walls, trees, corners formed by structures...all these things make a real difference for keeping warm or cool when off the bike; just a few meters' difference in location can make all the difference in the world. For an article on microclimates and camping, see: http://books.google.com/books?id=yOQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA29&lpg=PA29&dq=microclimates+for+camping&source=bl&ots=6Tire_7E_G&sig=Xnm_XCa1_jdZVMgQDBFum7Xfru0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=A5o1Uae-O8TfPb_ngJAH&ved=0CDoQ6AEwAzgK#v=onepage&q=microclimates%20for%20camping&f=false

Best,

Dan. (...who probably has too much Stuff, but it adds to the fun!)

[Andre Jute]

Your bike is getting too stealthy, Dan, and that beautifully applied handlebar tape is the last straw on the camel's back.

A pro thief will take one look, say to himself "I don't know this brand, but this guy knows his business. I'll just steal it on spec, see if I can part it out, maybe sell it whole if the brand looks good on the net."

Next thing you fit, whatever it is, should be a grungy dull color, out of place on such an elegant conception. You want the experienced thief to say, "Nah, this guy's a pretender, a wannabe. if I don't know the brand, it's an off brand. He probably got for six supermarket brand cola tops and $9.95. But he can't fool me. See, that el cheap part is where he lost the track." And he walks on by.

Not suggesting garish orange or anything stupid and over-obvious; it mustn't attract attention on and of its own. Even something grey or plasticky silver that doesn't quite succeed in looking like polished ali will do. Just something not quite so successfully stealthy that makes the owner look like an idiot to someone unfamiliar with the brand (and with Rohloff -- if he knows that one, this little trick will be wasted) trying to judge the value of the bike.

Andre

[jags]

Andre he would want to be a very brave man to steal dans bike ,you know the old saying never disturb a quiet man