Best chain for Rohloff?

[neil_p]

When I bought my Thorn 4 years ago, the top of the line chain recommended by SJS was a Sachs one. Any idea what the current recommended chain is?

I notice there is a rohloff specific KMC chain on the SJS website, but that seems to use some kind of magic connector.... which they sell two kinds of pliers for.... does that mean I need to carry two pairs of pliers and extra connectors on every ride? yikes!

[il padrone]

I think they currently sell the KMC X1 for Rohloff and SS. They also used to sell the KMC X8 which I have on my Thorn Nomad. I think it is a 8spd chain, but was billed as the best chain for hub gears by SJS. The magic link is a chain joiner - a bit like SRAM's Power Link and the Wipperman link. It should go on without pliers and if you do need pliers to get it off (not sure whether I needed them last time) a set of standard pliers will do. The joining links are very easy to carry packed with your other spare bits in your tool kit. I have one joined with a cable-tie and in the film canister that I have all my spare bolts.

[Pavel]

I'd like to chime in and echo the request.  I'm not so much interested in what the "best" chain is but rather would like to find a chain which is well made but in the old fashioned way where you simply push the rivet back in after separating the chain.  I would like to not have to use any master links and certainly not any non-reusable links such as is often the case with 9 and 10 speed chains.  Its nice to have a Rohloff and be able to have more simple chains.  I like the thought of changing from say, a 41T front sprocket to a 44 or 46 and just slap on a few links to do it.

Does such an old fashioned and simple beast still exist?

[Danneaux]

Hi Pavel,

I understand your yearning for riveted chains, but I seem to have been won over by connecting links. There are some conveniences and advantages I hadn't foreseen, and have surely found convenient. With that in mind, here are some thoughts...

I'm a bit late to the reusable master-link party, having only started with Taya Sigma links on my 7-speed chains, and found them to be a great convenience and reliable (rather than sliding, they worked under tension -- the two pins attached to one plate wedged slightly outward, each catching a lip on the mating plain plate). In 20,000+ miles of total use across a number of chains and connectors, I never had a Taya Sigma break with re-use, despite being cautioned not to. After removal, I simply bent the plate with the pins very slightly backward to restore the tension and all was good for a reinstall. Each new chain got a new link.

I'm not enthused about Shimano's scheme of using piloted pins that must be replaced each time, so I'm now using SRAM connecting links on my Thorn-supplied Shimano chain until it wears enough to switch to my back-stock of KMCs with their version of the sliding connector link (and spares I tuck into my touring repair kit and underseat bag). And, yes, I have found the SRAM and KMC links to be reusable for my needs.

They surely allow for convenient breaking of the chain for cleaning and re-oiling, and I have found it far simpler to disconnect the chain when removing the rear wheel, rather than fighting it and (in my case) the rear derailleur. No need for a chain hanger, and no risk of the chain getting balled-up against the dropout or against the inside of the chainstay on wheel replacements.

Once I caught onto the technique for detaching these sliding connectors, I've had good luck doing so, even on dirty chains (I always tuck a pair of disposable Nitrile gloves into my tool kit and underseat bag, so I don't have to worry about getting greasy hands that can transfer to clothing and 'bar tape. They're reusable too, provided one stores them wrongside out). The key on the sliding versions is to first squeeze the links together till you hear/feel a small "click", then slide the plates in opposite directions.

9-10 speed chains use mushroomed pins to retain the links, and a little distortion of the side plate occurs when the pin is pushed out. Looking at the MTB forums, it appears this distortion may be a factor in chain breakage if the chain has been resized or spliced more than once (though chains can break for any number of reasons, from poor assembly to sloppy shifting to catching debris -- mostly reduced to non-factors with the Rohloff). None of that distortion occurs when a connecting link is used.

You may wish to look at this Forum link: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3909.0 , where a member asked if a 1/8" track chain could be used with a Rohloff. Andre issued a note of caution in reply...

Rohloff, who knows something about chains, says1/8in chains fit (except with the Rohloff chain tensioner for which they're too thick) but are not recommended because they have a relatively short lifespan.

It is a cautionary note worth considering if chain life is a priority.

'Hope this helps...

Best,

Dan.

[Pavel]

I'm disappointed that in all this  time I've not yet found a chain where it is possible to add links and remove them on a regular basis.  All of a sudden it hit me ... why not use two master links?  Is there any problem with that, does anyone know?

Also are the master links interchangeable between sram and kmc, or are they specific where one has to decide on one chain brand or the other?  If they are specific - any thoughts as to which connector link system works best?

[Danneaux]

why not use two master links?

Pavel,

I have done this on a regular basis with no problem. You should be fine, in my experience. You can place them side-by-side, or 180-degrees apart. I have sometimes done this on my eccentric-equipped tandem timing chain, but no longer (read to bottom to learn why).

When you remove a single connecting link, you are left with a chain that has two inner-link ends. The connector supplies the "missing" outer link and pins needed to connect.

What you to with two links is to keep a spare, short section of chain that also ends in two inner links, and then swap that in or out as needs be. If you really want to geek out on this, you can keep two spare, short sections for a midway option.

As for brands of links, I have now used both and consider them about equal. If you go the double-link route, I would suggest making both links the same brand. By the way, I have used both the SRAM and KMC links with Shimano chains with no problem.

A hopefully helpful hint: If you are considering this as a way to avoid adjusting the eccentric....well, it is best to move the eccentric occasionally or even remove and regrease it to avoid galvanic corrosion between it and the BB shell ("frozen eccentric"). This is why I no longer use the two-link method on the tandem; it is really no faster than simply adjusting the eccentric and spinning the eccentric prevents problems down the road.

Best,

Dan.

[Pavel]

Thanks Dan.  The solution was like the elephant standing too close to see.

I wanted it so that if need be, ever, I could carry a smaller front sprocket and change out, rather than wimp out, when in the mountains.

[Danneaux]

...I could carry a smaller front sprocket and change out...

Ah! Well, the two-connector method should work fine for that, Pavel. Sounds like a good strategy to me. Just store the spare chainring in a zip-top freezer bag, and swap it for the take-out piece of chain and all will be well -- and oilstain-free in your bags.

All the best,

Dan.