Replacing cables with an external box.

[Danneaux]

ferrule ??

The little metal caps that go over the ends of the cable housing.

Best,

Dan.

[firestarter4075]

Yeah I thought that but couldn't figure how it would make much difference tbh , worth remembering tho

[revelo]

I'm resurrecting this thread because I finally got around to doing this.

This was for practice only, so I didn't replace the housing, just the shifter cables. Lots of dust inside cable box, so I cleaned that out. As Andre noted, tightening headless screws on cable pulley mangles cable ends, after which they won't fit into tiny holes on cable pulley, so make sure everything is setup correctly before tightening. It would also be wise to superglue ends of cables immediately after cutting, to prevent fraying. I managed to bungle things the first time, by forgetting to install the cable adjusters before tightening the headless screws. Since I had extra cables on hand, I simply cut replacements.

I also pre-cut spare cables for my repair kit, in the obvious way: install cables in shifter, measure, cut, superglue frayed ends, remove from shifter, place in repair kit. Spare cables weigh about 25g. Cable housings are slightly different lengths, so pre-cut cables are not interchangeable. To know which pre-cut cable is which, I painted head of gear 1 cable black. I also cut 200mm of cable for repair kit, to allow field measurements, in case I forget about black colored head or black coloring wears off somehow. I regret not cutting two sets of pre-cut cables, just in case I bungle the field replacement procedure.

Dave Whittle is a more experienced bicycle mechanic than me. Here's an idiot's guide to what can be lost while replacing the cables: cable stoppers, ferrules, cable box torx screws, headless screws for cable pulley. I did drop the cable stoppers, but there were easy enough to find. Thankfully, I was smart enough not to unscrew the headless screws all the way, because these tiny screws could be very difficult to find if they rolled far, especially during field replacement. I was also careful when cleaning and regreasing the cable box torx screws. The ferrules didn't come undone during the replacement procedure, but this is another thing to watch out for.

I wouldn't go so far as to call this an odious job. It's simpler than an oil change. And I strongly recommend you practice this procedure at home rather than trying to do it for the first time in the field on a long tour. Practicing at home is also the only way to get pre-cut cables for your repair kit.

[il padrone]

It would also be wise to superglue ends of cables immediately after cutting, to prevent fraying. I managed to bungle things the first time, by forgetting to install the cable adjusters before tightening the headless screws.

Oh yes, I've done two Rohloff EX box set-ups and managed to do this each time  

BTW if you're lucky (and I was each time) you can re-insert the cable ends....... just.


Oh yes I also managed to complete my wife's Rohloff conversion, everything cabled-up, all gears working correct, BUT cables were swapped. She now has gear 1 as top gear and gear 14 as bottom  Too much faffing about to be bothered changing it (plus the need for two new cables) so she has just got used to a reverse action.

[Big_Jim]

Good day to everyone.
Although I've had my hub for about three years its never had any maintenance other then oil changes, but now the outer plastic coating has come off my gear cables and I think the amount of force required to shift gear is increasing. More friction is my guess, so with this in mind can I ask a stupid question?

Why would you not lubricate the inner cables when inserting into outers?

I've always lubricated my cables when inserting them, it just seems to make sense.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for the replies

Jim

[Danneaux]

Why would you not lubricate the inner cables when inserting into outers? I've always lubricated my cables when inserting them, it just seems to make sense.

Hi Jim!

I asked this same question of a cable/casing manufacturer once, and this is what they told me:

With modern delrin or delrin-like linings and die-drawn cables (very smooth and with little stretch), the liners are self-lubricating. The lining turns to a fine powder under the action of abrasion. If one introduces lube into the system, it can turn gummy over time and actually increase friction. Additionally, it was his opinion that lube running down the cable past the stops could actually draw grit and dust into the housings, also increasing friction and accelerating wear. Therefore, his firm did not recommend lubricating cables.

This does indeed seem counterintuitive and for many years, I did use Tri-Flow to lube my lined cables. I stopped after getting this explanation, and I have to admit...my cables and housings have remained smoother longer, especially since switching to die-drawn cables when they were introduced to market.

I think the amount of force required to shift gear is increasing. More friction is my guess...

Mine, too. I suspect the cables may have worn through the linings. The most likely points are at entry, exit, and on the inside arc of a curve.

...so with this in mind can I ask a stupid question?

Jim, the only stupid question is the one left unasked!

Hope this helps.

Best,

Dan.