Mounting a Carradice Camper Longflap on a rear rack.

[Danneaux]

Thorn accessory bar. Bag supported on rack.

Sure would like to do this on all my bikes, Brummie. Worked well enough on my frames where I could lay the bag's bottom atop the rack, but not on bikes where the needed vertical gap was unavailable (paralleogram suspension seatpost, see photo; bike model ended production in 2008, equipped with one of two Thorn Sherpa Mk2 forks in different rakes).

I love Thorn's T-bars and uplift, but tariffs make it impractical to equip every bike in my fleet!

As you might have guessed, this topic is near and dear to my heart...and my lightweight CCL camping setup...
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=11787.msg85858#msg85858

Best, Dan.

[martinf]

On the topic of doing it yourself with aluminum rods and bars, it is my experience that the bar and rod stock that I buy at the hardware store is much more flexible than the metal parts that come on manufactured parts. 

Thus, my home made stuff is often weaker with lower weight capacity than commercially made components when using aluminum.

Maybe. I think the chap that made and sold these Lord uplifts probably compensated for any possible material weakness by using thick plate and rods. The uplift and the support that fits to the saddlebag weigh over 400g, nearly as much as the Tubus Fly steel rack.

[Danneaux]

Returning to Ian's original question, I have successfully screwed Ortlieb mounting rails and quick-release hooks to the bottom of handlebar bags so friends could attach them directly to small front racks in lieu of a more traditional decaleur. In another instance, I used the hooks and rails to secure the bag to the decaleur, then one more hook on the bottom to secure it to the rack to prevent swinging or shifting. I lined the bags with Colorplast to prevent distortion as George has described and screwed the rails and anchor bolts thorugh the Coroplast. This resulted in a secure handlebar bag that could be mounted or released as quickly as rack-mounted Ortlieb panniers.

I think something similar would work nicely to attach Ian's CCL atop his rear rack.
=====
As for my own quest to have a saddle-mounted CCL with quick release, I explored using Ortlieb pannier hooks and rails to attach the CCL to an Ortlieb aluminum rack arm mounted transversely across the saddle's rear rails, just below the Brooks bag hooks. The Ortlieb hook rail woudl be mounted to the CCL's hardwood dowel or an alumunum tube replacement.

Unfortunately, the saddle rails diverge as they travel upward and so can't retain a straight rod unless the clamp holes are angled. The saddle rails are parallel where they exit the seatpost clamp, but a transverse rod there would interfere with pedaling. It also wouldn't be convenient to have a rod to catch a leg when throwing a leg over the saddle.

I'm so close to finding my ideal solution! I came up with a way to mount my Ortlieb Underseat bag to my Brooks, described here in words and photos...
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4523.msg86243#msg86243

I still think my best bet is a rubber-coated sandwich clamp for the saddle rails, made from half-inch aluminum billet and secured with a seat collar q/r. That way, the bag is pre-adapted to fit a variety of saddles and nothing on the bike needs modification. It would allow me to keep my special Ortlieb mount and would work with a sus-post as well. Standoffs for the lower bag are easy to construct.

Best,

Dan.

[in4]

I don't do Facebook, or any SM for that matter but I was musing over Andre's fabulous contribution to the thread I started ( for which I apologise ) and the thought of 3D printer solutions came to mind. The  following thread appeared in my subsequent search. I apologise for this too!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/637718363917233/?__cft__[0]=AZiAY_qHCMxSDdkdLZuoijCeIW4RKZGC44OGn0TDrEsEQuaa_M7g6Srl32RLeHv7pJ8whopjOvkc7IbvEKj5FsWgdn9TUPxqaxLnhoVMxSzuYBxYkyXU5WR-0QfyZ-hvxXA1dMZbwAHZzfPbeu5UYFUYW2-Vr9A_twL5h7uvgemfCj-YSg46WTBWGsNNlw&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R

[Andre Jute]

I was musing over Andre's fabulous contribution to the thread I started

I was only going to make a quick hit on Martin's point and then my post just grew like Topsy. I really should have written and edited it in a word processor and just copied it over. Apologies for thinking aloud here on your thread. Bad habits die hard.

When I saw how big it was and how far from the topic it wandered, I put it where it wouldn't interfere with instantly helpful answers in your original thread. Now at:
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=15782

[in4]

We're a broad and welcoming parish Andre, post as your inspiration takes you. 

[mickeg]

You can buy inexpensive front racks designed to mount on the canti brake posts for small items.  I put one on my Sherpa, photo attached is years old.

I have not tried this myself, but someone on a different forum mentioned this possibility several years ago.  There is no reason that you can't use the same type of rack on back if you have canti brake posts to mount the rack.  That can keep your saddlebag off of the rear tire.

[Danneaux]

Ian, I've given further thought to your question about how best to mount your CCL atop your rear rack. Here's what bubbled to the surface...

1) As I noted in an email to you, I've had good luck adding Ortlieb hooks and rails to the bottoms of friends' handlebar bags so they will effectively q/r lock into front racks or decaleurs. The trick is to line the bags first with Coroplast as George and I do, so the Ortlieb hardware has something to bite into and to stiffen the bag. Be sure to use the plastic-capped Ortlieb nuts if you add rails and hooks to the bottom of your CCL, as they create a smooth surface so vibration won't cause wear of the contents against the hardwear.

Unfortunately, I don't have photos of my conversions ready to hand, but you can get the general idea from other's efforts with HB bags shown in these two links...
https://theradavist.com/decaleur-hack
https://www.flickr.com/photos/88336152@N00/16567687779/
In this case, the rail-mounted hooks under your CCL would engage the rack crossbars. Three-four hooks and two rails would do the job for you, I think. It is worth noting the Ortlieb hardware creates a labyrinth seal when tightened, so you would have no fear of localized leaks.

2) You can also mount one of your panniers atop your rear rack, provided it has locking mounting hooks. I have done this with my Ortliebs both small (SportPacker) and large (BikePacker) and it works a treat; solid, reliable, and quick-release when you want so you can even de/remount the back in a moment to forage through it. See photo no. 1 below. It works best woth roll-top bags, but I've had no rain incursion with my drawstring-and-cap-top bags.

3) You really can fit a whole camping kit in your CCL suspended from the saddle's bag loops. If you need extra capacity or want to level-out the bag so your thighs don't strike it -- and if you have a rear rack -- it is pretty easy to place something you don't mind getting wet (i.e. tent or rain clothing in dry bags, possibly plastic/Crocs camp shoes) underneath the CCL. It all depends on the vertical gap between the bag loops and your rear rack.

See Photo nos. 2-3 of this setup on my gravel bike (since fitted with a sus-seatpost, it works the same). When it rains and I'm wearing my rain clothing, I just swap the tent (under the CCL rain flap) to the rack-top, replacing the blue clothing bag under the CCL. Unfortunately, this setup is not yet q/r...working on it!

For those who wonder if such a small touring kit is possible to fit in a CCL, you can view the contents in Photo no. 4.

Best, Dan.

EDIT: George, I have run half-step and granny gearing on five of my bikes since 1977; my preferred choice for derailleur touring bikes!

[mickeg]

...
EDIT: George, I have run half-step and granny gearing on five of my bikes since 1977; my preferred choice for derailleur touring bikes!

You clearly beat me to it, I first did it in 2014.  I had a road triple with a 24T granny gear on both my Surly LHT and Thorn Sherpa.  I really did not need the highest gears, so removed the 52T and put on a 46T big ring on my LHT, for a 46/42/24 crankset. 

It did not work so well on my Pacific Coast trip, each time I had a change of grade it needed more than a half or one step sized shift.  But it worked great in Florida in 2017, almost all roads were flat as a billiards table.  With a slight change of windage I could easily do a half step shift.